Screwball

Anyone have any recommendations of places that can bead blast a stainless revolver? I have a polished Ruger New Vaquero Convertible that I hate the shininess of. Just swapped in a Super Blackhawk hammer, which makes it a lot easier to cock it back, but isn't polished. Not a fan of polished guns, both for their look and the amount of upkeep needed to keep them looking nice. Want to bead blast it to a nice matte finish. Would prefer someone that has a background in it, because I don't want the serial number to fade out in the process (for obvious reasons). Thanks for taking a look.

Don't know where that came from... but the "rescue thing" is because most shelters are actually overfilled. If someone wants a specific breed, I have no problem with someone spending $1,000+ on a puppy. Certain dogs have certain qualities... protection, hunting, service, show, etc. A shelter is not the best place to find a dog for a specific role... even though they do come through from time to time. But if someone just wants a dog, there are hundreds of dogs in need of homes at shelters across the state. I know the Monmouth SPCA got 200+ just from the somewhat recent hoarding cases last year. Then you have the Korean meat trade. Then you have people surrendering animals they can't take care of for any number of reasons. Then you have overflow from kill-shelters across the country. Our dog we got last year was from that last situation (from Tennessee). While I don't call her a "rescue," I'll side with W2MC's response. If someone is going to call out anyone for giving a dog a better life... you really might want to rethink your argument. I say that, because it sounds like something a handjob would say.

Local SPCA... sorry, but with the amount of dogs in shelters, really the only place I'd recommend if someone is looking for a dog without specific breed requirements. We got lucky back in November and found our second dog.

Then how do you get FFLs from Ohio selling at Oaks? You can call it illegal if you want, but I've seen multiple FFLs offering that service. Talk to them, not me. I personally don't go for a permit unless I have a gun picked up or held, waiting for shipment.

If there is a NJ FFL there, they can transfer to them, and get you your gun... just would be the same as going to a NJ dealer. I've seen a few guys advertise that in the past few shows. Easy to talk to most dealers there... they want a sale.

There is not one compliant... as far as I know.

Cocked and locked isn't for everyone... but the P938's safety is very positive. In a holster of some type, I don't see it being swiped off.

Depends on who you ask... Personally, I lump pocket guns with mouse guns. I'd consider both my S&W 642-1 (in 9mm) and my SIG P938 mouse guns. It might not be NAA sized, but smaller than a sub-compact. If you do get technical with the definition, you can get Derringers in 9mm, .45, and alike.

Nope... just someone willing to ship it to a FFL that will pin the thread protector.

Gen 1 or Gen 2? You can get an extended pad for both, I believe. But the Gen 2 can adjust the position of the stock in three positions. I leave mine all the way out.

GunBroker is probably your best bet... where I found mine. Problem is that surplus forums don't usually take kindly to people "building" those rifles. While I hate someone taking a Mosin Nagant and making it into a tactical rifle... I feel this was very tastefully done as a way to get a better idea of a historical event. But certain people call it sacrilege. It is a very nice gun. I do actually like the Carcano design, but wasn't that big on it to just go out and get a run of the mill Carcano. This kind of give me another unique firearm to add to the collection.

If you are going to get an AR, I'd skip the .22 version. Either get a conversion or a dedicated upper. Yes, cost is about the same... but you are utilizing the same lower/trigger. Actually, I'd spend the $100ish and get a stripped lower now. For a pistol caliber carbine, I can recommend either the Beretta CX4 or the KelTec SUB-2000 (if possible, the Gen 2). Have any pistols that could take magazines for either? I picked up my CX4 back when they first came out... used (mine is sub 750 serial number). 9mm version, which was paired with my 92 Brigadier Inox... and then my PX4 when I got it a few years later. Gun is solid, and never has an issue. Some complain about the trigger, but it worked for me for years (I did get a SierraPapa trigger/hammer kit). The best investment is the SierraPapa recoil assembly. If you disassemble the gun with the hammer down, you can break the guide rod where the buffer connects, making the gun inoperable. The SierraPapa one has a slip off buffer, just in case you make that mistake (pinned by the back of the lower, so not an issue). The KelTec is a good weapon, but can be hard to get. I got the nickel boron version in .40, taking the M&P magazines (I have two M&P40s). Only issue with the Gen 2 is you have to get the barrel nut pinned. Kind of a pain, but it is a very compact gun when folded. The design of the Gen 2 is so much more capable out of the box over the Gen 1, especially with the forend. The .40 is a little more finicky than the 9mm... but I got a heavy bolt from KelTec and a Sumo charging handle to increase weight (not shown). Your other option is to do a pistol caliber AR. I had Macon Armory do a .45 D/I upper, which I built into a sub 7-pound rifle. Uses H&K USC magazines, but they are supposed to be releasing 15 round magazines in their (Macon Armory) new design. If you want to get unique, I can also recommend a Henry 1860 clone (prefer the Uberti one, which I have the steel frame in .45 Colt). Another good platform is the Ruger .44 Carbine... the tube fed one. That is a gun you'd have to pickup used, but is a great gun.

There is a lot of Carcano history... especially when it spanned two World Wars, but one rifle seems to be the Carcano oddity; C2766... Oswald's rifle. A few of you know I like oddity, so my second Carcano... first was my sporterized Type I. I got it for a decent price, and it was pretty much as Oswald owned. But got a folding bayonet, and a few other war time accessories (bunch of brass clips). But to be fair, holding a similar rifle does give you a better understanding of the shooting. It kind of gives you the feeling it likely went down as described... but I think he shot irons opposed to the scope.

Yep... they do pink, as well. If you shoot and shouldn't have, having hollow points would be an additional 2-3 years... added to 5 to 30 years for manslaughter (depending on circumstances). If you screw the pooch, you screwed the pooch. Don't get me wrong, I understand what you mean... but it is like worry about modifying your firearms. Hell, if push comes to shove, you belong to a firearms forum, asking about bullets... that could make you seem like a blood-thirsty gun owner, looking to grease a poor child that was breaking in just to say hi. Sarcasm, but it is in the similar ballpark. But that is far from what you asked, so sorry for the sidetrack... In regards to Guard Dog like loads, look up Expanding FMJ. Used to be a few companies doing them.

As long as you are actually justified, hollow points aren't an issue... But Hornady Critical Defense/Duty is another option, if you are looking for a non HP choice.

I have the same gun... and definitely recommend it. Take a look at M14 Forum. I got mine from a local member for less than what a new N/M gun goes for... and it was an early 1990s gun with USGI parts.

It is actually somewhat easy to figure out if a problem was caused by a squib or overpressured round. Either case, they are going to want to know who made the ammo, and would likely tell you to contact them (or they would directly). A company isn't going to replace a gun for free when there obviously was an issue that wasn't their fault. If the gun breaks because of an unrelated issue to ammo, then you are correct... they would never know. Mossberg just got my SRII back for the second time... first was a cosmetic issue on the forend and one of the ejectors locking up the action. It went back this past time for the stock cracking at the wrist. I started keeping track of my ammo and rounds through each gun about two years back. I use an iPhone app called AmmoBase. Since I got that Mossberg after that point (5 months ago), I easily told Mossberg that a crack shouldn't have developed... as I shot 525 rounds of Federal target loads (has shooting history, including summaries where I can write specifics on how the gun functioned... including the one failure to fire, which went off the second time through). No Magnums, no reloads, probably some of the weakest low brass loads a person could put through a gun. Mossberg had no issue sending me a label, and I was very clear on the return slip that I'm unhappy sending it back for a second time. Probably a Turkish manufacturing issue where someone didn't fit the stock correctly... but with Mossberg's name on the side, it's their problem. Actually keeping my eyes on the lookout for a used 12 Gauge Citori with an adjustable cheek piece (shot a round of trap with a friend's this past Tuesday, and was great... except the rib being too high to get a decent sight picture), but will use the SRII until I find one or it breaks again. It will go back to Mossberg for a third time if that occurs.

Depends on who you ask... I have and have not. Cabela's, if I remember correctly, did back in 2007. Don't know if they do now, as I haven't purchased a firearm since then. However, I've purchased long guns from the Oaks gunshow.... and never filled one out. In 2C:58, it does say that a transfer requires certification to be signed by the buyer... but 2C stops at the NY land border and all other water borders around NJ. As long as the FFL (must go through an FFL for out of state long gun purchases; if a NJ resident, CoE is all you need for a long gun... even if takes place in PA) does a background and 4473, that is all they have to do. NJSP can't enforce NJ law in other states. Purchases are stated that the buyer needs a pistol permit (when applicable, but not needed since we are talking out of state FFLs) and a FID card. Every time I've purchased in PA, I was always asked for the FID... which shows you went through the procedure in NJ. You could pass a background check and not have a FID, so that is the most a PA dealer needs to do to prove you are eligible to purchase a firearm in regards to NJ. It is sort of along the lines of online ammo purchases. Cabela's doesn't ask for anything other than age when purchasing ammo... and no problems sending it. MidwayUSA, for example, stopped handgun ammo sales to NJ until they got your FID in their system after 2010. That was because of NJ's law for FIDs to be shown for handgun ammo... even though that law cannot be enforced out of state.

As long as it is NJ legal, purchase in PA with background check... just like within NJ. Only firearms that must be transferred through a NJ FFL are pistols... due to federal law. It is like that in every state.

If you went like 2007ish, it was A LOT different. Those gun racks were maybe a quarter of the guns they had on the floor. It was either three or four rows of double sided racks, and a lot more variation in selection than one rack of surplus, one of shotguns, one of hunting rifles, and a partly stocked rack of modern rifles. I went back maybe four years ago, and was very disappointed (went to Delaware twice in that time, and was identical). Yes, you can walk out of the building with a firearm without any issue... but go to the Oaks gunshow if you want to see differences in location. Be on line and watch how many people check a weapon that they are carrying. That is a bigger disparity between NJ and what America should be.

Understood, and if I was having a gun built, I'd definitely go through them or CZ's Custom Shop. I'll send them an email (their site is more for packaged upgrades/gunsmithing), but it is only a hammer install. So, I have to ship the handgun to/from, have them do the work... and might have them install a barrel bushing just so I can justify the shipping costs. I've seen videos of hammer swaps on CZs, so can't see it being a huge deal that a competent gunsmith couldn't handle. Asked the question being I rather have someone who has done it before.

Went to Oaks today, found a Type I Carcano... caught my eye because it is 6.5mm Japanese. Was only $149. The guy I bought it from had a few Arisaka rifles, but were a little out of my price range ($400+). The 6.5mm always interested me. Reason it was priced like that was because he said he added a recoil pad. Think it was more because a couple inches of barrel and forend was missing (cleaning rod hole and no bayonet lug was a dead giveaway). [emoji23] For about what a Mosin Nagant used to go for, it is a nice odd rifle... even though it isn't "correct." It will be a nice light rifle, in case someone recoil shy wants to shoot. Got to get some Japanese stripper clips, though. In case anyone else was interested, there were other surplus guns. A few Garands... anywhere from $1,100 and up. Cheapest Mosins were $250ish (saw some with "matching bayonets," but didn't look closer)... and there was a guy by the food window selling "cleaned" rifles (saw him another time with similar snipers at a price that I spun right around from). Got contact high from the stain. Looked at a few because of the receiver dates (mid 1920s; hex receivers), and saw a 91/59 that I really liked. Way over what my M38 was (had one there for $150 more than my $300 one)... and gave me a headache because of the odor. A few other odd/ends were on the racks spread through the two rooms. Saw a few Swiss rifles, but nothing that made me wish I picked it up.

Didn't want to stray the other CZ thread, but wanted to see if anyone had any recommendations for a CZ gunsmith in Monmouth County. I have a SP-01, and also have a spur hammer on the way from CZ-USA. Always liked the look of the Pre-B models. From talking to people that did a similar modification, it seems that a good amount of fitting is needed. Wasn't sure if this is a general gunsmith job, or something I should find someone good with the platform. I had Tom from Howell Gun Works fit my Kadet slide to the frame (and fit my 9mm cylinder to my 642-1), so will stop by and check with him if there isn't a need for a CZ guy to do it. I'm not really comfortable fitting stuff like that, so rather pay someone to do it.

If you have a NJ FID, you are able to purchase long guns (granted NJ compliant) from dealers (includes Sunday). Handguns must go through a NJ FFL, which some do go for those instances (still need a valid permit). Ammo isn't that big of an issue in regards to shabby sellers. If the box doesn't looked tampered with, use your head. If you see a $5 box of .44 Magnum ammo, I'd look a little closer. Personally, I wouldn't buy reloads or questionable/opened ammo from there. I've also had people argue with me about things I'm 100% on, to try and get me to buy their $75 box of ammo that probably wouldn't go off. Brush up on what you are looking for, and if needed, search the internet if you aren't sure (multiple sources, as your first result might be wrong). If you are looking for optics, or other high end gear, that is were you are really need to watch. If you see someone that pretty much should be at a common flea market, don't expect an Aimpoint to be sitting on his table that is not fake. Tons of cheap knives and stun guns... not likely a great place to get good gear. There are people selling collectibles... usually knowing what they go for. But there are also people that have fake stuff, and will price it as normal collectibles. For example, Nazi-era daggers are worth a few hundred dollars... but if you look both sides of the handle and see the eagle emblem, it is a fake. The backside was not emblemed, since it was in a sheath. Holsters, there are a few people that will make a holster for you. Bring your cased gun, have it verified that it is unloaded when you enter, and stop by and talk with one of those guys. I've had custom holsters made via the internet, but might bring my SP-01 for a holster to fit the Tac-Block.

Taylors & Company are good to go... I bought a Uberti 1860 Henry that was imported by them that I thought was new. One of the screws under the receiver fell out, and the action was messed up. The other screw looked like it was stuck, and the guy chipped it. Called them up, sent it out, and was only charged shipping for them to fix someone else's screw up. Their warranty is only extended to the first buyer, from what I looked into... so I should have had to pay for the work. Very appreciated of them doing that for me. If I every looked at another reproduction cowboy gun... I'm going with them. [emoji106]