Screwball

Tokarev... being you are a little late for a Nagant.

If I ever decide to go with buckshot, I'll look into them. My previous load was Hornady TAP. I've been happy with the results of PDX1. I shoot the rounds out of my shotgun yearly, and have had similar results for the couple years/production batches I've ran. It would have to be something big to make me change those out... being I like them so much.

Unless you want to build multiple uppers, I'd suggest getting a complete one instead of building. Lot of tools that you'd only use to do that, and are a little pricey. Lowers are cake, and easy to function test. Uppers can be a little finicky. I picked up mine right when Hillary and Obama were fighting for the nomination, and built it. Have three uppers (5.56mm, .22, and .410) and been extremely happy with it. I picked up a Bushmaster Carbon 15 the other week and got me looking at doing a super lightweight build. I'm probably going to get two or three Tennessee Arms Company polymer lowers ($40ish each) and go from there. Other lowers will be rainy day ones.

Good to hear. Keep their info. If it goes through good, post who they are so people in a similar boat know who to use.

Ask them how Cabela's gets away with it...

Legally, that is fine. You would have to fill out a Certificate of Eligibility (ones that regularly do NJ transfers, Cabela's for example), and them do the NICS check. If they don't want to, that is there own decision... as they don't want to be responsible if the gun isn't legal here. Similar to some FFLs not wanting to receive from a private individual. Not illegal, but they don't want to deal with having to get a copy of a driver's license from people that forget to send it. With the exception of guns banned by NJ law, the only thing a NJ resident cannot buy out of state is a pistol. Federal law requires they be transferred from out of state by an in-state FFL. You see NJ FFLs go to the Oaks gun show to take possession of handguns from PA FFLs and transfer to NJ residents (legally).

I'll be different, I use PDX1 slug/buckshot. Less spread to worry about, but if the slug is slightly off, pellets will likely connect. Don't have any family or neighbor concerns in the directions I'd be shooting. For shooting through walls, I rather be alive to get it fixed.

And if there was 153 of them, you wouldn't know.

I always do 99999.

As of right now, 40 left in stock...

Reading that, I saw an app on iTunes that was made for keeping track of pistol permits. Think it tracked the 30 days, as well as the 90 for the permit (with an extension option). Really sad that people have to deal with this crap...

I believe it must go Express... meaning next day. Pistols can only go USPS through a FFL (meaning a FFL ships to another FFL). I just shipped a Winchester 1897 to Illinois via UPS for about $27 (with insurance; long guns can go Ground). Need a copy of the FFL for UPS to include with package, walk into a UPS hub (not a UPS Store), and it is good to go. I always ship with a copy of my license, as FFLs are required to log where the gun comes from. When I had that same Winchester shipped to my FFL, I told the guy that he needs a copy of the license. Said, "no problem." Gets there... NO LICENSE! My FFL couldn't log it in until he contacted the guy and had him fax a copy over.

Or don't go to that range until they change the rule... Sorry, but if I'm not acting recklessly and putting others in danger, don't tell me how many rounds I can put in my magazines. Whoever brings extra 15 round magazines to load more with 5 each really should ask why. Like go in and talk to the R/O, and then ask to speak to someone that runs the show.

Nope...

It does, but space in my safe is valuable. If I can take three bolts and put them on the door, utilizing as much space as possible. I bought the biggest safe I could fit through the door... and it is still too small. From many discussions regarding gun safes, I hear that is a common problem.

Problem with that is where I have my Mosin Nagant, it is right where the power comes in. Can't move it as it is also in the spot where the cut is on the top shelf, since the rifle is so long. Leaving the bolt to the rear wouldn't work for me. I'm feeling the best spot would be either the door or the wall near that Mosin Nagant/power adapter. Just unsure on how. I saw Lockdown solutions, which are ok (I have a few of their products already), but don't like the large organizers nor the pistol hangers. Organizers look too big for three bolts, and the size of the pistol hangers makes me unsure if the end of the bolt will stop from falling through (could just sew it to fit).

I have a Liberty Fatboy Jr, which I keep the bulk of my collection in. Half holds surplus ammo (adds weight to the bolted down safe), handguns, and basic accessories/valuables that I want locked up. Other side has some more surplus ammo (used to prop up three shorter long guns) and majority of my long guns. Anyways, I'm in the process of selling a shotgun (which will be replaced by a Yugo Mauser), so I've been going in and out the past two days. I did my best to organize it, but I noticed that the bolt actions are taking up a little extra room due to the handles. The two bolt guns I own happen to be a M1903 in a USMC sniper setup and a Mosin Nagant PU sniper. As I said, I also have a Yugo Mauser eventually coming, so that will be another one to deal with. Guns like my WASR, Garand, and Yugo SKS have handles sticking out, but can't really do much other than fit them between guns. As it sits now, those are a non issue. So, I pulled the bolts out and really made some headway with fitting another gun in the back... in turn, giving me more space to fool around with (I use Rifle Rods, so not going to do anything better). The Mauser has a spot where the shotgun was, but I'm thinking about pulling the bolt to keep it a little clearer. None of the guns inside the safe are loaded, and none of the bolt actions will be pulled out and need to be running for defense. They are all recreation rifles. As it sits now, I just tossed the two bolts on one of the shelves... to put them somewhere. My question is what do you guys use for storing bolts that are not in rifles? I would love to figure something out where I could store them on the door, but have other things up there to not use those full sleeve storage covers. Even just a soft case to hold the three would be nice (I'm not really looking to get another bolt action anytime in the near future). Thanks, and try to stay dry.

Looking at radar models really doesn't say a lot yet... a lot can effect its path. All we know is it could miss us, hit us, or be somewhere in between. Remember, meteorologists are sometimes very wrong. Don't say the hell with it until that storm is past us...

Thanks... It was pure frustration when I saw the soaked box. Not like it was clothes or lawn furniture. Only other thing that came close to pissing me off like that was FedEx gouging the polymer grip on my .45 PX4.

They don't know yet... keep up on it over the next two days, and they'll have somewhat of an idea.

I got that beat... USPS left my rebuilt M1903 outside in the rain when I had $1,000 worth of scope installation done. Not to mention an Adult Signature was required. No plastic. Luckily someone got home soon enough and got it out of the box before rain soaked to the gun.

I went with a Ruger SR1911... didn't need a 1911, but wanted one. Personally, I'd opt for one without the rail, either in Government or Commander size (I prefer the 5"). However, I do like the ability to mount a light. But if I did (was going to add a Novak rail, to cover up the warning), I lose a lot of holster compatibility. My choice was Recover Tactical grips for when I want to run a light... If you go on the major forums (either of the AR or 1911 ones), these are so trash talked that it isn't even funny. Having two in hand (original one stippled and pictures, and a current one that works with their holster), they do what they are designed to do, and do it well. No issues with the rail or strength throughout the entire grip. Doesn't make it chunky, either. Company is very interactive with the firearms community, and the designer was in on the Tavor design. They have a complete holster solution, which works with IMI holster platforms (SigTac is their rebranded US design). Being in NJ, it is a pain in regards to pistol purchases. I don't usually buy handguns that are similar, as I feel it is a waste of time and money (had a .45 and 9mm Beretta PX4, and feel like I took a loss on the .45 I sold). Having two options on the same frame makes it a little easier for me to consider. Same reason why I have a 96G Centurion slide for my Beretta 92 Inox Brigadier, and a 9mm conversion cylinder for my 642-1.

Nice option... I have the Kidd Trigger Job kit in my 10/22 Takedown, so not going to spend the money to swap that in. Ruger should have put these out sooner.

As said, GunBroker. AIM Surplus did have Swiss rifles for sale from time to time... think they just sent out an email about more. Other than that, Oaks gunshow or one of the Cabelas might have something. There will likely be a few 7.62mm Mausers out there. Was common in Israel, and other places that wanted to convert their rifles to take something more modern. You'll find a few different calibers with Mausers, as they were widely rechambered when sporterized. Don't think there were K31s in any other caliber... at least commonly.

Subsonic ammo is just designed not to break the sound barrier... no more, no less. When a round (or anything) breaks the speed of sound, you'll hear a crack. This occurs around 1,150 feet per second, but varies due to location. If the round is going less than that, you won't have that crack. With suppressors, that means the only sound that needs to be suppressed is the actual gunshot... thus making it more effective. If you shoot ammo that breaks the sound barrier through a suppressor, it will be quieter... just still going to be loud with that crack. Some rounds are designed to be subsonic, such as .300 Blackout (there are higher velocity loads, as well). Other rounds are just that way, such as common .45 ACP (slow and heavy bullet). If you want subsonic 9mm, look at 147 grain ammo. Usually, heavier rounds are used in subsonic applications, since weight is a very good braking system. Benefit other than the lack of crack... not really. There are accuracy issues that come up when decelerating back across the sound barrier, but not going to be a big deal to most people. It really comes down to what you are looking for. Do you want a slow heavy bullet or a fast light one? One spot where subsonic does come into play is .22 rifles... load .22 CB Longs, and you pretty much have a lethal BB gun report, if you must take out a pest (legally, of course).