redtornado23

Vlad, i read you...but step back for a second. We unfortunately all know it's a (some kind of) problem...it's ridiculous that there are laws without absolution. without a concrete and specific ways for people who will be held accountable to those those to tell whether they are in fact breaking the law or not. what's a flash suppressor and what's a brake? pinky test?! that's beyond awful - as there are absolutely ways to determine what is and what isn't or what does and what doesn't break the law. be it laziness or the desire to keep laws loose for interpretation in order to prosecute the potential law breakers whenever the powers that be feel like it...there is most definitely a problem. i don't have too many friends...so that's nothing new to me i didn't come up with 16" - they did. so yes, while there is plenty or gray area to get trapped in...with severe consequences, i did not create the number. i do not wish to break the law, nor will i...in my desire to own a "as close as the law will allow" length rifle. High Exposure - that seems to be the recipe to follow that will keep things safe. i'm not looking to mill off threads or do anything other than purchase parts that when put together get me as close to the magic 16" without going under as possible - for no other reason than that. and yes, once i go to time the brake, crush washer, etc...what that final measurement will be, can't be figured out until that step is performed...which is to be expected. i'm not looking to say the barrel + brake = 16.08257" but close to 16"...again, close...but within a safe margin.

very nice...

High Exposure - i hear you and you're 100% correct. there will probably be no difference other than then the physical length. i just don't think there is any great effort or worry in figuring this out...

there has to be a way of measuring length that would take into account a tight tolerance - and i never said i was going to err on the side of being short, but rather leave myself some wiggle room so that i'm over 16" - it's just by how much is the question. and once i have a barrel and a brake, i'll be able to fit them together and measure...to some degree of certainty that i am legal be it a tenth, eighth or hopefully not much more. it may take some figuring and some trial an error but i'm sure it can be accomplished. i'm kind of surprised to see the apprehension. this is a non-moving, real world physical thing - that CAN be measured and figured out.

i don't think it's that much effort or a big deal to sort out the numbers...so far i've looked at a few websites, made some posts here and written a couple of emails to some vendors. if 16" is a set number/rule all i'm trying to do is obey that rule while being close to tolerance. i'd be ok with being close. .10" wouldn't bother me, but .25" would

wsaraceni - thanks for all the numbers. yeah, i'd be a little pissed off if i ordered something claiming to be 14.5" and it was 14.7", but that's me. i'm guessing manufacturers have considered the magic 16" number and given the 14.5" "standard" have designed comps to be a length that when added to that barrel, will put the overall length slightly over 16". in order to measure your setup you could close the bolt on your rifle and insert a cleaning rod down the barrel until it contacts the bolt face, mark off the tip of your comp on the rod, remove and measure. at least that's what i've read is the easiest way to measure "breach" to tip. i haven't done this on my current AR but will give a shot soon. i know my barrel is a standard 16" mid-length bcm with an FSC556. i'm interested to see what the measurement is...

vlad, true...i've read the overall length is measured from the breach face to the tip of the comp/brake - which is fine, but in reality how much of the advertised barrel length really ends up adding to the overall length, that's what i need to determine. i'm not going to nitpick over an eighth of an inch, no matter what barrel & brake combination i go with, i'm fairly certain i can find a combination that works and works well - i just want to be as close to 16" as possible.

i was just being an engineer. i'm not assuming any positive or negative from tyring to hold the length to 16" and i'm not worried at all...just thinking out loud as i consider options for my next build. and as jt custom and mr. stu pointed out, there are other things to take into consideration when calculating the almighty 16" - i'm just trying to put together as short of a barrel/brake assembly as i can while obviously keeping it legal. PWS556 = 2.1" - (.5" overlap) = 1.6" + 14.5" = 16.1" or 14.5 - (.5" overlap) = 14 + 2.1" = 16.1" now to determine exactly how manufacturers measure their barrel lengths... thank you all for the feedback

All, thanks for all of the feedback - this would be for a new build, so i am looking at picking up a 14.5" barrel and as close to a 1.5" brake (without going under - thanks!) as i can find. High Exposure - thanks for tha pic and information...exactly what i was looking for. that pws tto looks like it just might be the winner...1.87". so i have .37" to try and get rid of....

Bob...thanks for the reply. I know about the 16" - I'm trying to find a short brake, something that if used with a 14.5" barrel will get me close to the magic 16" number without going over. And yes, you're right about the lack of a definition. that there is a "pinkie test" for something that is potentially illegal to own is ridiculous, but so is the fact that i still live in this state.

I've searched a bit and haven't been able to find a definite answer - maybe someone else here has gone through the same exercise of finding the shortest length brake for their rifle that is NJ compliant...and works. I was looking at the Spikes Smith Vortex Shorty, but read that it is in fact a very effective flash hider (even though it looks similar to my PWS556). The PWS556 is 2.33" in length, so i guess anything less than that would be good. I'm just looking to get as close to overall legal length (barrel + brake) without going over as i can. thanks in advance for any info...

https://www.thebangswitch.com/atf-rules-sb15-can-legally-be-shouldered/

i picked up the kit MidwestPX suggested (from Midwest PX) and swapped out the grip for a MOE+. i've shot ar's with geissele triggers in them and yes, they're awesome, but for a price. the same guys with geissele setups have shot my ar with the alg act trigger in it and had no issues with it whatsoever. it's smooth, linear, and while it's not light (i used the springs that came with the trigger) there's no creep and it breaks clean. 1st ar build...given your budget. i think you have your answer.

+1 for what pk90 said

barrel and muzzle brake - you get what you pay for, so you're going to need to think about longevity and performance and see if you can get what you want within your stated budget. what gas block you go with depends on the look you're going for, if you want to be able to mount anything to it, do you want to be able to take if off once the brake is on, etc. if you decide on a gas block that DOES NOT integrate a front sight post, any sight you mount to the gas block with have to be metal to be able to withstand the heat generated by firing (unless you purchase a floating handguard, which given your budget doesn't appear to be the case) gas tube, as long as it's the right length, there's not much to it. since you have a magpul stock, i would go with a magpul hand guard...keep the color/look the same and keep costs down.

head over to the current gun law discussion forum and vote in the poll: http://njgunforums.com/forum/index.php/topic/67096-njcom-poll-here-we-go-again/ i felt compelled to post this here to make sure everyone saw it, hope that's ok.....

+3 for Steve, awesome guy and seeing how he pinned and welded the brake on my AR, he treated my rifle it like it was his own.

look on ebay for forster gauges. http://www.forsterproducts.com/categoryShopping.asp?category=22919&catid=19938 you only need min/max gauges if you are headspacing for 5.56

i had a friend make the comment that he would only run steel through his "cheap ar" - i'd rather have a rifle that will fire anything and everything i can get my hands on. i also just fired steel cased 223 (Wolf WPA) through my ar for the first time with no issues whatsoever...and i'll continue to do so. if it works, it works

sweet, looks awesome. gotta love the budget builds, goes to show you don't need a ton of money to build a decent rifle

not that it would cause any problems, but it's strange how the extractor isn't coated....

since it's your first build, i'm guessing you haven't put that many rounds down range? i haven't had my ar together all that long and only have around 500-600 rounds through it. zeroing your sights is definitely step one, although even if not zeroed, you should be consistently "off" and not all over the place, which it sounds like you are, so it could be worse. this is definitely a practice makes perfect situation, i'm in the same boat. i can see my groups getting slightly tighter each trip to the range as i become more comfortable with holding/loading/firing...and as i remember to aim the rifle correctly, cheek placement, eye relief, etc. i still need work, but becoming familiar with the rifle and mechanics of shooting properly takes time, i'll get there eventually and so will you.

i own a 23 and my buddy has a 19, so i shoot both often. as others have said, there is definitely a difference in recoil and "snappier" is probably the right word. I guess you're asking because you're looking to purchase one of the two?

another wonderful story about a municipality dragging its heels. all you can do is be persistent...nice, but persistent.

show us some pics!