redtornado23

the best way to find out is to get some and run it - i just picked up 100 rounds of wolf wpa steel 223 from aimsurplus for under $30. if you run through it with no problems, then you're good to go. yes, it supposedly does leave your firearm a bit more dirty than brass, and while i'm not a fanatic about keeping my guns spotless, i don't let them go for 1000's of rounds before cleaning either. you shouldn't have problems with corrosion if the ammo uses non-corrosive primers and wear will all depend of number of rounds fired and frequency/amount fired at one time. a couple hundred rounds a month? no worries a couple thousand over a weekend....might be a different story

why not try to do something like this? using a carbide bit in a die grinder you should be able to make it look pretty decent.

be careful the "enhanced" butt-pad does not fit on the moe fixed stock, i know because i have one sitting in a box, i ordered it and it didn't fit. you would need to get the prs extended butt-pad.

i have a couple 10 round and they work, topped up too, no having to leave out a round like some mags. http://www.charliecoopers.com/ar-15-ltd-capacity-below-30/

this topic can be debated to no end. it's all going to come down to your own comfort level/experience with shooting this type of ammo. I've only put brass cased ammo through my ar so far (new build, around 500 rounds at this point) i'm interested in seeing how the wolf wpa runs through it so i just picked up a 100 rounds. if it jams up in my mags, or i get multiple ftf or fte...then i'll know this ammo isn't right for my ar. not that it's necessarily bad ammo...it just may not run well in my rifle.

i have the fixed mow stock on my AR and really like it. solid, no play, comfortable and when holding just the stock in your hand, it was much lighter than a comparable magpul adjustable.

bcm mod3 here, really nothing not to like. i have played with the Raptor and it is nice...not sure i would spend the extra dough vs the bcm if i didn't 100% need the ambi function, but that's me.

a 9mm 1911..!?!? nooooooooooooooooo..........

Congratulations! Nice choice...have fun and don't shoot your eye out.

i'll be following along on this as i have another stripped lower that is dying for some attention. From what i've read, most people seem to be a fan of the ballistics, the rounds capabilities, the familiar platform, etc. the only negative i've come across is that the ammunition is...expensive. But if you believe in you get what you pay for, maybe not so much. it'll be interesting to see what people have to say. i know so far i'm a fan...

Hello from Lyndhurst - welcome aboard...the board. You should definitely check out Gun for Hire (Woodland Park) and yes, they rent both pistols and rifles/shotguns.

mikka1...take a look at the Strikefire II or Sparc II by Vortex (page 2 of the link below) http://www.webyshops.com/brand/New-2014-Vortex-Products/#/?qpp=25&page=2&sort=0 i was originally going to pick up the Sparc after reading good reviews, but now i'm waiting for the Sparc II to be released...to me, the improvements are worth waiting for and the price should remain close to the same as the original.

Congratulations! Awesome choice...

i've used geco ammo for both my glock and ar and have had zero problems. http://geco-munition.de/en/geco-world/brand.html

wow, that looks awesome. nice and light, great finish, keymod and it's bcm. if i were building my next project right now, this would be on the top of the list.

Thanks man, all i needed was some inspiration. Brake is on, and i've put maybe 50 rounds through it. Still need to sight it in...so any time you're ready.

Maybe some of you know this but it was news to me that i thought i would share... If anyone is looking at optics, red dot or otherwise, Shot Show 2014 is about to happen, so a lot of manufacturers are about to release new or revised models...which has caused the prices on current models to come down quite a bit as retailers look to dump inventory. I'm in the market for a red dot - which i can now either pick up on the cheap, being "last year's model" or i can wait and get the latest/new and improved model for what should be only a small bump in price, if any. Just something to keep in mind if you're looking...it might be worth it for some to save the cash or wait and take advantage of new technology, features, etc.

i would tell you to build it. If you think the lower was easy, the upper should be a piece of cake. Building it and getting an intimate understanding of how everything goes and works together can only benefit you in the long run. my 2 cents...

Roll Pin Punches http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007WADKN0/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Roll Pin Starter Punches http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008L0N6KW/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

gotta add a big +1 for steve as he hooked me up today with a pin and weld job on my new rifle. this was the first time i met him, but i'm sure it won't be the last. very down to earth guy, super friendly, helpful and looking at the quality of his work on my pin/weld job...definitely a stickler for detail. i was impressed.

you said it - you've built several ARs - and you'll most likely build more, so get the gauges...they last forever and you'll have them for this and all your future builds.

Just finished my first build, which my buddy from the forum MarkWVU02 guided me through. Thanks to all of you I was able to do my homework and had no surprises in putting this together. I read, read some more, took my time and purchased tools/parts when they went on sale, Black Friday, etc. The end result is the bottom rifle in the above pics (the top belongs to MarkWVU02) As soon as the brake is pinned and welded , I’ll be hitting the range to put down as many rounds as I can before my finger falls off. Big thanks to everyone here, I couldn’t have made the decisions or the balls to tackle this build without you. Spike’s Stripped Blem(?) Lower Spike’s Stripped Upper Spike’s Standard Phosphate BCG Spike’s Trigger Guard Midwest PX LPT with ACT Trigger Midwest 15rd Pinned Magpul FDE Magazine KNS Trigger Pins Magpul BAD Lever Battle Arms Takedown Pins Noveske QD End Plate Spike’s Milspec Buffer Tube, Spring & T2 Buffer BCM Standard 16” Mid Length Barrel, 1:7 BCM Gunfighter Mod4 Charging Handle Yankee Hill Machine Picatinny Railed Gas Block Magpul FDE Furniture Midwest Industries ERS Flip Down FDE Iron Sights PWS556 Muzzle Brake (not shown)

i just read through this whole thread...price, counter service, food, etc. ok...i get all that, but has anyone had any experience with their gunsmithing work, repairs, etc. good? bad? prices fair?

well if anyone needs to check headspace for a 556 chambered barrel, i'll soon have the tools to do it. i was able to find Forster gauges on ebay so i pulled the trigger (pun intended) and picked them up. i have another stripped lower, so i know i'll be building at least one more rifle after this, plus whatever my friends decide to build in the coming months, so it seemed like a purchase i would get some use out of.

yes, that is correct. so i would assume if a 556 chamber is headspaced per min-max, you can use 223 ammo in that headspace and not have to check it for 223...? not sure if that makes sense, i would assume a properly headspaced 556 chamber, spaced per the correct min-max for that caliber...223 will also work with no issues. i think i'm saying that right. a lot of threads online, people are headspacing with just go and no-go gauges (which are typically 223/556 gauges - which in reality should not be the same thing), and if you're going to headspace at all, that seems incorrect. they should be checking with go and field gauges, as no-go is still within spec, just not optimal and might be a sign that it's time for some new parts. once again, i'm probably over thinking this. i don't really want to worry about headspace at all - but if i'm going to do it, i want to know what the correct way is and why. food for thought: http://ar15barrels.com/data/223-556.pdf