GrumpyOldRetiree

I heard K1N on 15M, 59 yesterday but he was operating on the extra/advanced part of the band (I'm a general). Today, could hear him weak but workable on both 10 & 20. I think that 10M propagation was pretty bad today because he said he was putting out 500 watts, but he drifted in and out all day. For me, the Caribbean is usually an easy qso @ 100 watts round trip. To add insult to injury, my elmer texted me, reporting he got them on all modes/all bands that they operated on so far. Well, tomorrow is another day.

Slightly off topic...but: Did any of you DX'ers have any success with K1N (Navassa) today? Boy...I followed him all over 10 meters for most of the day today as he dodged the jammers and lids. He just completely faded away at my QTH about a half hour ago. I shoulda went to the range instead!

I wholeheartedly agree that (in most cases) antenna quality and position (particularly antenna height) trumps power. However, once you have optimized your antenna and transmission line for your situation, there is no place else to go but more watts. In my case, with my Boufeng HT's with Nagoya NA-771 antennas, I found that going from 5 to 8 watts (more like 7.3 watts according to my inline watt meter) made the difference between just "breaking squelch" on a repeater and annoying the other stations with a weak signal and being able use the repeater with decent signal reports. Ever though the math says that a small jump in power results in a tiny\fractional increase in s-units on the receiving end it may mean the difference between you being able to use the repeater or not. So, if given the choice between buying a radio that outputs 20 watts vs one that outputs 40 (holding everything else constant), I'll take the 40.

Not that I have seen. Most (if not all) of the dedicated 2M, 1.25M and 70cm radios that I have seen are pretty much FM only. But, like the YEASU you pointed out previously, there are "All-band, all-mode" radios out there. BTW, I forgot to mention in my previous posts: With that YEASU model you were looking at - did you notice that the 70cm band power output was only 20W?

That's where I bought mine. Also bought the Wouxun lcd readout 20A power supply and programming cable. Everything still working after 6 months. As I posted previously, I'm happy with the purchase. Contrary to some of the reviewers on eham.net, I had no problem programming it, though I vaguely recall downloading the latest software from Wouxun. The only change in the software that they noted was the addition of a 2.5K tuning step.instead of the previous lowest step of 5K.

Newtonian, As I am a new ham myself (licensed in 9/2014), and by no means an expert, please take these observations as just my subjective opinions: YEASU is definitely a top tier manufacturer. The ONLY negative I've seen about them is a number of complaints regarding their displays (this may not be a problem with this particular radio). I've seen quite a few complaints regarding the way YEASU is handling a systemic "while line" display failure after the warranty period expires. Apparently, this is a common problem on some models, YEASU is well aware of the problem, but continues to charge big $$$ for the repair post warranty. If you look at postings for used radios for sale, you will find a few sellers disclose "has one line in display" or something to that effect. This is often followed by a complete display failure. Personally, I prefer separate radios for uhf/vhf and HF/6M. My usage patterns are different for the two rigs I operate from my "shack". I assume you are looking to use this radio as a base station. As you observed, there will be additional purchases in your future. There is at least 1 purchase that MUST be made to get the radio operational. You need a decent quality (read: electrically quiet) DC power supply just to get the radio working. Additionally, if you are going to operate on HF, an antenna tuner is certainly desirable. A perfectly usable dipole can be made for very little money and you don't need super low-loss coax for HF. Also, generally, the smaller the radio the more you have to descend into the (often complex) menu system to change settings (like splits, rf gain and various DSP adjustments) that you will constantly be fiddling with when operating on HF. I'm using a borrowed Kenwood TS-570D and I like being able to make most adjustments with a button push. Smaller rigs don't have room for alot of buttons. Finally, regarding your concerns about the second tier mobile vhf/uhf rigs...I'm perfectly happy with my Wouxun KG-UV950P. The programming cable I bought with the radio has the FTDI chip and the programming software that came with the cable works perfectly with this radio (CHIRP DOES NOT work). I had none of the programming problems that I initially experienced with the Baufengs.

Newtonian, Just a "heads-up" regarding your search for a quad band radio. As djg0770 posted, TYT does make a quad bander. So does Wouxun and another second tier Chinese manufacturer (I think it's Anytone). But be advised...they may have the bands, but not the modes. These radios are FM only. FM mode is of little use on 10 & 6 meters. It's certainly not the operating mode most hams associate with these bands. Just look up the ARRL band plans for 10 & 6 and you will find very little bandwidth assigned to FM mode . I personally own a Wouxun quad band FM mobile radio. I bought it because it wasn't much more then their dual bander. But I only found 1 10 meter repeater (on the Empire State Building) to talk to. For 10 meter, you want a radio the does USB, CW and digital data (FSK, etc) modes. Before you buy anything, do your homework. Ham Radio Outlet in Delaware is a good field trip destination.

BTW Silence Dogood...Cograts on your first HF QSO's

Propagation was pretty good on 10 meters this weekend (at least Saturday...Sunday was a shooting day for me). There was some contest going on and I picked up 3 new, unique European DX entities, 1 South American and a few US states that I didn't need for the ARRL WAS award. Not bad for a band that's supposed to be in a declining sunspot cycle.

Damprid is just calcium chloride. It is very corrosive when in solution. So if the container it is in leaks, the liquid collected at the bottom will do some serious damage to any metal it comes in contact with. I wouldn't (and don't) use it in my safe. The plug in, rechargeable silica crystal modules are a much safer alternative. As others have posted, any cold item (like my eye glasses) will have moisture condense on it when brought into a warmer, more humid environment. I wouldn't interpret the condition you describe as a problem with the safe.

Affirmative. That indicates the repeater is receiving your transmission and re-transmitting it.

The canisters are great for emergencies. I keep a dozen or so for use in a small camp stove and catalytic heaters. $2.75 each seems a little pricey to me. The last time I bought them at HD they were $8.99 for a 4 pack. But, then I still have small pistol primers marked $9.75 a 1000 box. After hurricane Sandy both the stove and heater helped enable my elderly neighbors to remain in their house until power was restored. Well worth whatever I paid for them.

See this page regarding the Prolific debacle: http://www.miklor.com/COM/UV_Drivers.php Working drivers are available there as well as good descriptions of what to expect. I'm a little leery of their suggestion to disable driver updates to correct this problem. From what I can determine, disabling driver updates is an "all or nothing" situation. You can't just tell Windows "don't update the Prolific Driver". Their suggestion could leave you with a bunch of outdated drivers just to accommodate this programming cable. The preferred chipset is FTDI (not FTTI as I originally typed, but corrected in 2nd post).

Newtonian: I also had many wasted hours trying to get this all to work, but once everything worked, CHIRP was definitely worth the trouble. Everything I write below is based on my experiences using Windows 7. With other OS's ...YMMV. As I mentioned in my previous post, the programming cable with the Prolific chipset is problematic (but still useable). It requires a very specific, older version (Vista) driver to work and Windows keeps fighting you because it wants to update the driver to the latest registered Prolific driver. You can use this cable, but every time you plug the cable in you have to go into Device Manager and switch the driver to the older Vista driver. Additionally, you have to verify that the comport setting in Chirp matches the comport that Windows assigns when you inserted the USB end of the cable. The FTDI cable "just works" (although you still have to verify comport assignment if you plug cable into different USB port on computer). Secondly, when I started using CHIRP, the stable version DID NOT support the BF-F8HP. I had to download the newest Development build of CHIRP for it to recognize the radio. This might have changed since then. Finally, the first time you use CHIRP with a specific radio model, you should "Read from Radio" to get the exact field and settings list that that radio supports. This gives you a perfect template for writing back to the radio. The generic, blank table that CHIRP offers doesn't work too well. Keep plugging away...it will be worth the effort.

After you shout out your call sign, does the repeater "light up"? If you are within range of the repeater and it doesn't turn on (your radio's receiver should turn on) after you release the PTT key, then there is likely something wrong in your settings. I have several Baofeng BF-F8HPs. Great HT for the $$$ but easy to make a mistake when manually programming it. It was alot easier, quicker and error free after I bought the programming cable. (avoid the $6-$10 Polific cable, get the $15-$20 FTTI cable) At the risk of stating the obvious, some vhf/uhf radio resources: repeaterbook.com miklor.com (great Baofeng resource page) There is an "Unofficial Baofeng Programming page" that is much better then Baofeng's documentation, but I can't locate it at the moment. Chirp software (use with programming cable)

Sig P290RS

Just to expand on the answers already given regarding ham radio and Baofeng HTs (Handheld Transmitters): You can't really "hide" from anyone who has a radio that tunes the same frequencies you are using. Most HTs (like the Baofengs) have a scan function that will cycle through the band and stop on any frequency that it hears a carrier. Additionally, they tune in "steps" (as opposed to continuous tuning - i.e. one hertz at a time). For my purposes the Beofengs are good value (I currently own 3) and a lot of fun for very little cost. But, be advised: like guns, you will almost immediately need/want to "accessorize". For the Beofengs this means a better antenna, a programming cable(get the real Beofeng cable, not the knockoff), the high capacity battery (the supplied battery has pretty good life but the bigger battery gives you something to physically grip). Each of these are inexpensive items, but collectively cost more the the radio.

Yahoo!!! (for now)

I can't speak directly about that specific model (I think you're referring to the QAP1BE), but I do own several Sentry QAP1E's (push buttons only) as well as a Gunvault brand Speedvault model (with fingerprint reader). In my experience, the fingerprint reader is too "hit or miss" for me. It did get better as I kept programming in in the same fingerprint over and over, but I still get times where it won't open with multiple swipes (and that's with clean, dry hands). If I could turn back the clock, I would have bought the push button model. The Sentry QAP1E is a pretty good value, particularly when Home Depot occasionally reduces the price to $80.00. I WOULD NOT pay the extra $$$ just for the addition of the fingerprint reader.

I have to disagree with this sentiment. SCOTUS was not played, they were players in this grand charade. The NJSC initially granted cert in Pantano to provide some ambiguity as SOTUS was considering Drake. So one or more of the supremes could argue that the NJ CCW issue was still in flux at the state level and therefore Drake wasn't ripe. After Drake was dead, the NJSC was free to change their minds on Pantano. This was done with "a wink and a nod" between the feds and NJ. None of these guys want the unwashed masses to have carry, and they are all doing the two-step trying not to deal with the ramifications of Heller & McDonald.

Sorry pal. I must have had a "senior moment".

Wow! Just rechecked Berett'a website and this model is available for southpaws as well. Thanks for the heads-up. I'm ordering one right now. I typed too quickly. Just spoke to Beretta customer service and the LH version doesn't fit the 96A1.

Regarding T&T Reloading... If you are using a GPS or Google maps to plan you route, just verify that the map destination is across the road from the Falls Township cemetery. The first time I went, the address, as listed, took me one town over.

In the recent past (6-8 months) I bought a 96A1. I can't speak to the long term durability, but after 800 rounds I haven't had any problems with it. Regarding recoil, it seems comparable to my 2 9mm's (HK P30 & M&P 9C). The 96A1 is a big, all metal (except for trigger & guide rod) pistol. For me, it's a pretty easy shooter. One warning however: if you are planning to use the gun for matches that require a holster, you should probably look elsewhere. It seems that no one makes a holster for these Berettas with rails on them. I have a decent collection of reply emails stating "no, our holster DOES NOT fit your gun" Other then that, I like it and am glad I bought it.

T&T Reloading in Easton is just over the border off rt 22. Check his website (tntreloading.com) for evening weekday hours and to verify he's open on any given Saturday. He works the gun show circuit so sometimes he's closed Saturdays. The inventory list on his site is NOT up to date and does not reflect what he has in stock. Even during the recent shortages I was always able to get enough components & powder from him to keep me shooting. Before you go, make a list of acceptable substitutes, because he doesn't always have exactly what you're looking for.