Scorpio64

During the great 22lr ammo drought of 2013, I read post after post written by old coots shooting ammo they picked up (hoarded) at the hardware store, gas station, drug store, etc...all bought back in the 70's and 80's. They were all too happy to gloat that they were shooting while everyone else was glued to ammoseek and gunbot. As I recall, only one guy said he had some trouble with the vintage ammo, which turned out to be a worn out spring or something.

Bucket o' turds.

All of my builds started with a stripped lower, then waited for a sale on a specific LPK, then the barrel, then whatever parts as they went on sale. Almost every time I ordered parts, I also ordered ammo if it was on sale or a decent price. I hate paying S&H on ammo alone.

The price does seem high but premium components will add up fast. Personally I would not pay that much because precision parts would be wasted on me. That and I'm a penny pincher. I think you could do better on the price of many of the components. I've used Anderson lowers, bargain basement mfg and they are working well. As for an upper, I think an Aero or BCM upper would suit your needs. You can get an assembled upper for about $90.00. Or, you can take a chance on a blem upper but sometimes it dos not work out. I bought a Palmetto striped blem upper (non returnable) that looked fine until I mounted the barrel. The upper is out of spec, too wide in the barrel receiver.

My Champion 3500/4000 (33.3 Amps) gen is labeled on the frame that it has a floating neutral. Strangely, there is no mention of floating or bonded neutral in the manual. In any case, I'm still a little confused. If I understand the differences correctly, a bonded neutral genset should not be attached to a beaker panel until the neutral is modified to be floated. This method, (floated neutral and breaker panel attached), uses the house grounding and having two earth grounds would create a difference in potential between the two grounds. A bonded neutral genny can be used UN-grounded as long as certain conditions are met. Basically, bonded neutral gennys are to be used only as a stand alone power systems and faults are fed back to the frame/chassis via grounded three conductor cords. It still does not hurt to earth ground a bonded generator with a copper clad rod if the genny will not be moved around a lot, such as what would be expected for a genny used in construction. Really, it would be an expensive pain in the ass to drive a copper rod at every site and in many instances would not be practical. A floating neutral is required for panel attached generators because, as previously stated, having an earth ground for the house wiring, and then having an additional earth ground at the genset will create a difference in potential between the grounds and could energize the ground wire. So, with a floating neutral,a grounding rod is not used. Hopefully my understanding so far is correct but if not please feel free to chime in. Now comes the part where I'm a little confused. What should I do if I'm using a floated neutral generator as a stand alone separately derived system? My genny is connected to the house via a three prong 30A twist lock L5-30R outlet on the gen. On the other end of the cord is a 30A L14-30P four prong twist lock, only three of the four prongs are used. On the interior side of the wall are two outlets connected in series. Basically what this set up does for me is eliminate extension cords being run through open windows. It's an elaborate way to move electrons 8 inches. Another thing I'm confused about is this. I have seen topical schematics of floated neutral systems where the neutral is shown as bonded at the transformer, then floated at the outlets. Is this how all floated neutral systems work? I don't want to ground the gen right now because I'll be moving it out of the small shed I built for it to another enclosure at a different location. Since I'm running it stand alone, I don't believe there is any major risk right now but I still feel that earth grounded is better. So here's a question. Will the generator be considered properly earth grounded if I drive a rod where the inlet is and ground the inlet to the rod instead of the generator grounding terminal?. The way I see it is like this. If my power company hookup is grounded at the meter, which is also the inlet, then grounding at the four prong inlet should also be kosher.

Too far.

Relax everyone. Generator has been tested under load, starts on first pull. Gas cans all filled and I just finished installing a 30 Amp inlet to my house. It's very professional looking and will work splendidly. This virtually guarantees that there will be no major impact from these storms.

Is this going to be a double whammy? A Nor'easter with a storm surge followed by Joaquin, now a cat 2.

CMJeepster, on 30 Sept 2015 - 08:30 AM, said: I agree, what's with the gasoline?

Black Rifleitis, symptoms, Onset, drained bank accounts, internet search finger, option overload, occasional spats of Turrets like cursing due to lost small items such as springs. Recovery rate is nearly 100%, Typically resolves with wide ear to ear grin, though sometimes a residual short term effect of sore arm muscles from patting one's self on the back may occur.

I'll fourth the bolt action for hunting and range. The Ruger Precision Rifle may be too tacticool for you and I'd question how it will handle as a hunting rifle. The stock looks like it would get snagged on everything. I'm not hating on the RPR, I intend to get one in .243 as soon as the craze cools off and the price comes down to a realistic actual retail price. The RPR, if you can find one, is in high demand and currently selling for MSRP +. I'm a Ruger fan so I'll recommend a Ruger American Predator in any caliber. The heavier barrel makes it ideal as a range gun and doubles nicely in the field with a sling. It has a full length Picatinny rail along the receiver so your optics mounting options are wide open. The barrel is threaded, which means you can add a flash hider, and it's completely NJ legal since the RAP has no evil features. The RAP in 308 comes in an 18"bbl but all other calibers have a 22"bbl.

However you do it, I'm sure it will turn out fine. Your dad will enjoy it. Good luck with the project.

Yeah, that too.

14.5" bbl + 2" muzzle brake = 16.5" OAL, louder and a fireball. 16.25" bbl plus TP = 16.25" bbl and less fireball + 150fps more. The barrel lengths are virtually the same. Do you want accuracy or do you want tacticool?

Things are going to change November 7th 2016.

Every time I've been there in the past three years there is always someone with those orange targets. The only thing the RO's have said about them is to move them out to 25 yards. It was pistol shooters that had them too close. Basically, they don't want anything that would leave behind bits of garbage, glass, wood splinters, be dangerous, toxic or be construed as a human target. The list of vorboten targets is pretty clear. If it's not on that list, then it should be okay. I seem to recall ballistics gel was not allowed but I don't see that on the forbidden list anymore. I wonder what that's all about.

You will be better off with a 16.25" bbl and a target crown than a 14.5" bbl with a muzzle device. I had a lengthily discussion with a ballistics engineer scientist gunsmithy guy with 50 years experience about pretty much the same issue. Those extra inches will let more powder burn inside the barrel and give you more velocity instead of belching out fireballs from an energy sapping short barrel.

Not necessarily. My 39D came with an older 28mm fixed power 4x scope, it did not look terrible. I think a modern 1" scope with a large objective bell would look terrible but the classic thin scope was tolerable. I took it off because I want to shoot with open sights but would not hesitate to put it back on

I almost bought a Henry but a 1971 Marlin 39D in near mint condition begged me to buy it while I was shopping around. The thing I love best about Henry rifles is that they are made right here in NJ. I have to do the factory tour one of these days. Congrats on your cowboy gun. Like Krdshrk said, peep sights are a popular upgrade.

That is a protection racket, it's basically extortion. I am a member of the NRA because of what they do on the national level, but in NJ, the NRA doesn't do jack shit.. Join the NRA or you cannot enjoy your 2A rights here is the epitome of a mafia type control.

The Kill A Watt is a great little device but I use it more on the gen side to test the quality of power output. Every appliance and electronic device has a label on it indicating the maximum power draw. Some have the info in Watts, others in Amps. To convert Amps to Watts just multiply Amps * Voltage. i.e. 10Amp appliance X 120 Volts = 1200 Watts. fyi, a gas dryer wont use 1200 Watts continuously. That's what it needs to start the motor. Same for other motor driven appliances. Lets say you have a fridge that runs on 500W but needs 1000W to start the compressor motor, and you have a dryer that runs on 300W but draws a MAX of 6 Amps to start. (6A*120V=720W) that's 1720Watts max you will need your generator to put out. If you are only running the two appliances off of a 1800W max/surge output genny, you'd be okay but try and use a microwave while the other two are operating and you will have problems. You may think, hmm fridge and dryer run on 800W and my small microwave runs on 750W, boy I have about 200W to spare. Not really. remember, anything with a motor uses lots and lots of electrons to get a motor spinning. You can get away with running the microwave and dryer at the same time if the fridge compressor is off but when the fridge kicks on the breakers will trip. I ran a fridge, furnace, a few CFL lights, LCD TV and DVD player off an 1800W/ 2200W generator no problem. When I needed to do the dishes or a load of laundry I just unplugged the fridge and plugged in the other appliance for the time being. The other thing I would do is turn the heat down to prevent two high draw initial start appliances from kicking in at the same time. You can get by with a tiny generator but I recommend a 30Amp (3500 Running/4000 Surge) genny as bare the minimum for living comfortably. When my 1800/2200 died, I replaced it with a 3500/4000 gen. With a 30A or lager gen you can realistically think about installing a power inlet and a transfer switch to power the most essential circuits in your home. No extension cords. Another thing to consider is the availability of fuel. My neighbors 10HP 7500W genny gulped down nearly 15 gallons of gas a day while my 5.5 HP 1800W genny sipped just under 5 gallons per day. A more powerful gen is great but is useless if you cant feed it.

Join Range 14 and tell the Beverlyhillbilly clubs to go fuck themselves. They all cry about how intrusive the government is on our 2A rights then they go and do this., yeah, they can go scratch. I talk to people all over free America and they are appalled to hear what it takes to join a club here in NJ.

Add up the total wattage of the appliances, electronics and lights you want to operate off the generator then add another 30%. Let's say the fridge, furnace and a few lights will eat up 1500 watts. You will want a generator that puts out 2000 running watts and 2400 peak/surge watts. This is a very general example but you should get the idea. I recommend visiting Generac's website for additional info. Some generators have starter motors, like you car. Some have remote control starting too. If the battery is dead, they usually have a pull start.

Never shot one but I like it. The wear gives it character. Either a good shooter or a good project gun, either way it's a win at that price.