TonyS.

Today only: Buy One, Get One Free Padded Vickers Slings in Kryptek Highlander Buy One, Get One Free on unpadded Vickers Slings in Black

Thanks! I was just looking at the Vickers slings today. Great timing.

Thanks guys. I went with Blackpaw Survival's Aeroshell offering on Amazon. I don't even need a 1/4oz but i'll take it for the price, especially if you have Prime shipping. Oh, and about those honey do's I though I dind't have over the weekend..... yeah, I was wrong. DOH!

Use blue Loctite. It's good enough and will allow you to remove the screws, and therefore gas block, if you ever change your mind down the road..... Not that you'd ever change your mind about your AR setup, right?

6', roughly 235lbs. My hands are bigger than normal but my arms are regular length, I guess. I'm thinking going adjustable now for my first cuz I can....wait for it...adjust it. Otherwise, I might be stuck with a stock too long. Then again...I wonder if I could cut down the tubing on the ACE ARFX it it's too long....hmmm...

For some reason I hadn't thought of Amazon for Aeroshell. I picked up an ounce of it from Amazon. Should be here by tonight. Going to get the build going tomorrow, unless I got some honey-do's I don't know about yet.

FWIW, my ff handguard from Midwest Industries included a small vial of adhesive they say you must use on the barrel nut or you void their warranty. Yet all the vids I've seen on installing a ff handguard has the host using grease on the nut.

So I'm slowly building my first AR15, which is also my first rifle build. Every AR around in local stores, which ain't many, have adjustables (though pinned). I'm wondering what to go with for my first build, adjustable or fixed? I've been reading about length of pull, how to determine it, etc.., and without actual trigger time it's hard to say what I'm gonna like. Should I go with an adjustable and see how it feels at home, then pin it, or go with a fixed, like the ARFX Skeleton Stock (which I like the look of)? Thanks guys.

I don't want, or intend, for this thread to turn into a "best grease" thread. Rather, I'd like to know where in central NJ one can get Aeroshell. If you don't know where to get it or you don't use Aeroshell then what are you using for the barrel/barrel nut? Thanks. DOH! I forgot to say that I'm considering "Super Tech" Moly Grease from Walmart.

That's because it was fixed before you saw it.

Funny enough, I was just looking into this today. There's some great write ups from guys that have done it. Google is your friend.

After hearing good and bad about Andersons I got worried and started looking around for other brands and availability. After all was said and done I bit the bullet and got a Yankee Hill forged lower from Effinger's in Bound Brook. Factoring in price, shipping, NICS, and then transfer fee on top I figured better to buy local and a very respected brand. IIRC the salesman said they'd be getting more in since mine was the last one and that was roughly 3 weeks ago.

Midway has the Plano AW All Weather Series 42" Tactical Rifle Case on sale for $59.99. Seems to be a good case and it's a good price from what I've seen. I just ordered one for my first AR15 build. I've been debating on soft vs hard case and figure for the price...well, might as well. Don't know how long the sale will last...maybe until they're OOS? Anyway, just a head's up if anyone needs a case. Oh, FWIW shipping to NJ was $14.

I'd like to think this was tested without a human target before he tried it on himself.... Thoughts?

Yes, the more I look at it I'm learning towards the Magpul MOE fixed carbine stock. I like its look more....

Thank you guys. Earlswagger, good one on the stock. I think the Magpul MOE fixed is what I'm gonna go with. I was considering the ACE ARFX but the Magpul's cheaper.

Thank you, guys. So for my clarification please, first I need to pin the comp and grind off the bayo lug. Then I take possession of a lower but then first need to pin the stock?

Guys I'm an AR newbie. I've been AR-studying for the past month and have a good grasp on the internals and workings of an AR. I'm flummoxed on one important point. I'm confused as to build order to keep things NJ legal. I've got a BCM complete upper (16" bbl with BCM Mod 0 comp) on order that will probably get here by this weekend. That's the only part of an AR15 I will have att. Since the barrel is already natively 16" and the comp will be pinned by BCM (correct?) I believe I'll have no worries about the upper. Anything that might need a weld/pin job I can do myself, like the stock but I don't know the legalities of doing so. Now what or how do I go about my next steps regarding the lower, stock, trigger, etc? Thanks guys.

My Ruger SR9 does NOT like steel cases. Usually won't load or eject. I've yet to try them on my XDS but I've heard the XDS can eat anything.

Thanks guys but I sold one to a coworker today and the other which needs more work than it's worth is being donated tomorrow.

Bowling?! HA! Yes, I would rather go bowling if I had the time! The cars are both in need of decent amount of work, but they run. I don't have the time to work on cars like I used to and honestly the work required is pro'lly more than their worth.

I've got 2 cars that I'd like to sell. With my work schedule I really don't have the time to wait for potential buyers to show up. I've heard of the Cars for cash buyers out there but never dealt with one. Anyone have any recommendations or critiques on any? Thanks. Forgot.... I'm in Edison area.

Harbor Freight if you want new, otherwise Ebay from a reputable seller for something used. You don't need industrial strength farm motor for turning brass. I forget what I got for my homemade wet tumbler but I got it off Ebay and it does the job just fine. My tumbler is made from 6" pvc about 14" long slinging .45acp all day long. Forgot, ensure you get a 1725rpm motor, or something close, but that's the standard. Anything slower ain't worth using.

Depends upon the size of the screws/bolts/nuts.... For smaller items I'll use bigger baby jar types and drill a hole in their lids and mount them to the overhead beam with wood screw. For bigger items or when I have a sh*tload of them I'll use old plastic coffee containers. They won't rust and they hold large amounts just fine.

Forget the Powder Cop and get RCBS Lockout Die. Works much better because the Lockout Die actually stop/jams your press's progress when you have an over or under amount of powder dropped into a case.