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dutch ak guy

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Everything posted by dutch ak guy

  1. Allow me. A stripped AR lower, when purchased commerically (internet, gun shop, your favorite FFL) will always need a NICS check and a Certificate of Eligibility. If you find one online, that retailer will send it to your FFL for the transfer. Your FFL may have them in stock as well. The parts (LPK or lower parts kit), the upper, barrel, stock, magazines (15 rounds max) and any other misc. parts can be bought without any transfers or visit to your FFL and will be shipped directly to your home. One thing to remember is that the summary of parts you purchased does not necesarily give you a NJ legal gun. For example, a barrel will need to be legalized with a device that will not add a point on the "evil feature list". Same goes for a collapsible stock. You can buy them online. But, when assembled on the rifle, is an evil feature unless properly modified.
  2. It's more of an addiction, really. Everytime there is a sale with free shipping I buy some, even if I don't need it. The latest thing I've found myself buying is milsurp corrosive ammo for my AK and Zastava M57. I tend to hoover around 2k rounds per caliber.
  3. Just ordered a 36" Tipton carbon fiber rod. Should be long enough for good reach and if the rod touches any sensitive areas (crown, rifling etc) the carbon fiber will not do any damage. I did do a lot of research, but the Tipton rod connected with me the most.
  4. 1) Field strip. 2) Old toothbrush with Hoppe's solvent on any areas that get in contact with the burnt powder. 3) Air compressor to dry. Wipe clean. 4) Very light Hoppe's gun oil on moving parts. The barrel and chamber get more attention. First a soaked patch on a jag through the bore, followed by 5-8 bronze bore brush strokes. I use a chamber brush for the chamber. Finally patches until they come out relatively clean. I say relatively because when I lightly oil the bore, the patch gets dirty again as if the oil loosens up more grime. I like the old fashioned method best, but my nickel plated 1911 uses CLP because it will not harm the finish. Even though I use CLP, I still dry the parts and lightly oil where needed. The garage is getting humid and hot now, so the cleaning frequency slows down.

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