Sniper

That was the first thing I was wondered too. Each system has a separate transformer, relay and control system. Mixing the two could be an interesting experience.

Probably because most people don't care or wouldn't understand what they were looking at. They just want to flip a switch or push a button on their remote control to make the item work. Hell, most people don't even know where electric comes from. It's easy to determine what each of your circuits are drawing, just clip a Amprobe on the line to the breaker.

December 13th

That's the 800 lb gorilla in the room. To be able to run central air, you need to double the size of the genny compared to not running it. But, if it's the time of the year when you can get by without central air, and just need to power basic appliances or lights, you're running the monster genny, but not using it's full potential, while it sucks down fuel. That's why I made the trade off and got a smaller genny. We really only need central air maybe two solid months during the Summer. The rest of the time, we can tough it out. Having to stock up or get lots of fuel during an outage to run a big genny versus a small one is a decision that has to be made. In a pinch, you can get a portable A/C to cool a room or two. This is a really important exercise to do BEFORE buying a genny. Truly knowing what you want to power and what load it pulls is step one. If unsure, buy a Kill-A-Watt meter from Home Depot to measure loads on each item when it's running. Yep, which is why I said running a 8KW genny to power those items is big time overkill, Even adding a newer fridge into the equation, it will pull like 1200 watts on start, but then only maybe pull approx 400 watts when running.

The main NJSP site itself is having issues right now and unreachable.

Ahhh, a guy after my own heart... I go one step further, three is ideal. Like Scorpio said, yes, it's the safest way to tie the generator into your house. To install, you have to go into your panel box and move some existing wires around off of existing circuit breakers. If you're not comfortable doing that, it will require an electrician. Take a quick search on Home Depot or Lowes for "transfer switches" and you'll see what they look like. A 6 circuit transfer switch is around $300. I'm actually picking one up today to help my son install it for his generator. Based on having gas, you really don't need a large generator to power everything else, unless running your A/C compressor is a must-have. Everything else can be run off of a 3000 watt easily.

Before just picking a generator, it's important to know what you're needing to power up with it. Is the house all electric (hot water, cooking, heat, clothes drying) or is it gas? How many fridges? city water or well? One furnace or two? What else? Knowing the load you need to power is the first step in deciding what generator is necessary. No need to get a large generator, and burn through tons of fuel, to keep a few lights on. Plus, if you're going to run a generator all day during a power outage, you can split and stagger your loads during the day (cycle one fridge at a time)(run the furnace), etc. This way you can get by with a smaller, more fuel efficient generator. Most major power using appliances in your house don't run 24/7, but cycle on and off based on demand.

What's you definition of cheap? What model or caliber?

Great advice, I prefer propane as my first choice, since it's safer to store and doesn't go bad like gas does. My generator runs off of standard 20 lb tanks just like the ones from a grill. So multiple tanks are safe to store or in a real pinch, almost every house in the neighborhood has at least one in their backyard. Also, the transfer switch is definitely preferred. No running of extension cords all over the place, just flip the the switch on the panel.

It looks like this angry lady is taking sights on the Wilmington, NC area, as per the current forecast, and will hit on Thursday as a Cat 4 storm (winds 130 - 156). But, besides landfall, the forecast calls for it to stall out for a handfull of days, and barely move for multiple days, which will dump TONS of rain on NC and VA. Some predictions are saying up to 2 FEET of rain (the Yellow area below). Too early to tell what we're going to get, but it could be a lot more rain (like we really need it after today).

A real quick search, Home Depot has the key version. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Stack-On-Full-Length-In-Wall-Cabinet-Beige-IWC-55/207107092?cm_mmc=Shopping|G|Base|D25H|Multi|NA|PLA|71700000032394431|58700003837562552|92700030712663227&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxerW8OGu3QIVhZyzCh206gOAEAQYASABEgLRf_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CM7RpPThrt0CFRWYyAodfyQHIQ Midway has the digital version: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1016696749/stack-on-long-gun-in-wall-safe-with-electronic-lock-black

I'm going to outline and describe what I see are the steps that happen in a HD situation in my case, not for the "experts" here, but for any lurker reading at home. This might help some people understand. 1) If an potential intruder approaches my house, the first thing he'll see are our cars in the driveway, as we don't park in the garage, so he should know someone could be home. 2) I have motion activated lights surround my house, so one of them will turn on when he approaches. That's the first deterrent. 3) If he has any awareness, he should notice the multiple video security cameras that surround my house when the lights come on. Deterrent number 2. 4) If he still decides to approach, he's going to encounter dead bolted doors and locked windows, so to accomplish entry, he's going to have to destroy something and force his way in. Deterrent number 3 (First law broken). 5) If he gains entry through a window or door, the audible alarm will go off. Deterrent number 4. 6) When he actually enters, he'll be met by my barking dog, so either he might leave or force his way pass the dog. If he decides to harm the dog, that's the (second law broken). 6) At that point, I'll be waken up by the noise, and will be heading towards the point of entry/noise with my HD gun. Maybe at that point the intruder decides to change his plan. Deterrent number 5. 7) If the intruder is still intent, after all the above, in either robbery or a physical attack (third or fourth law broken), he will be met with deadly force. I don't need a WL at that point to have a daylight face to face with him. I only need to see where he is, and respond accordingly. I seriously doubt a jury would consider me guilty of manslaughter in that situation. and that's why I went with a laser instead of a WL. I want to make sure I hit what I'm aiming at. Hope that clears things up in my situation for all of you.

Exactly what I was going to suggest. It comes in both a keyed version and a digital version. I believe @Zeke was considering one. I have the keyed version and believe in the "hiding in plain sight" plan. Do a quick search for "concealment furniture" or similar search. I personally don't like gun safes that look like gun safes. Anyone stranger who sees them, knows what's in them. There are some different types of cabinets that can be utilized where no one will know it's a gun safe, but still give you easy access.

I have zero concerns about being judged wrong. Zero. I have more concerns about being alive and not seriously beaten to defend myself. If you read the post I made right after yours, I have stacked the deck and am prepared. Just because YOU consider my plan won't be a success, does a 300 Lumen WL change the conditions on the ground in a HD situation that I described? The answer is NO. There's more to being planned and ready then just having a WL. Overall planning is a bigger part. I plan on surviving and not being physically harmed. But, I don't need to "light up" and know the hair color or if a intruder is smiling or frowning, to determine if I'm going to protect us. The mere fact is that he made it that far into my house is justification.

So, I'll quote the your complete post, to make you happy. Think about that first part, I have a generator, solar and batteries and two other ways to produce electric. Does that sound like I decided on a single detail (generator only) or considered the big picture and more comprehensive plan and planned ahead? It's the same thing I decided with a WL versus none. First, I hardened my house to make it difficult to break in. Second, I planned my night time lighting so I can see what's going on without any additional lighting, with HD as the reason. I need to have situational awareness and tactical advantage in low light. Since I know the layout of my house, either this intruder will be carrying his own light, will turn on a room light, or be stumbling around trying to figure out where to go. Third, I've tried a WL and have walked through as many different "what if" scenarios I might encounter in my house, and tried to envision my responses. Have I actually had "real world" experience shooting an intruder? Not yet, and I hope to never have. As H.E. has been going on and on above, In my situation, it's not about wondering what's in a guy's hand. That's a moot issue. At 2 or 3 AM in my house, a uninvited intruder who just broke in doesn't belong there. There no other discussion needed. It's easy to determine if there's a person there or not the way my lighting is configured. I'm not taking the time to see if he's carrying a TV remote, a ham sandwich or a weapon. I don't need to light up his face to see if he's smiling or frowning. Any intruder that just broke into my house will be treated the same. To delay can mean the difference between serious physical injury to me or my wife.

Been there, done that twice.

You make good points, but it's not based on mine or other people's home situations that we're discussing. You deal with events in the 'hood on your job, and in those situations, you're absolutley right. I wouldn't want to deal with those type of situations patrolling the 'hood every day like you do. I'm referencing an unknown and uninvited intruder in my house. I'm going to err on the side of self preservation and protection, and not give the benefit of the doubt when protecting my family. Everyone is free to decide how they want to handle that situation. Like it's been said, it's better to be judged by 12, then be carried by 6. The bottom line, if an intruder comes in here at night, he's already broken a couple of laws, breaking and entering and attempted robbery, and that's for starters. Plus, to physically break in, knowing someone is home, either shows total stupidity or major intent to do harm. Either way. I'm not planning on having a nice, casual sit down conversation with the dude at that point. He's there for a reason, I'm not waiting to see what it is. My response in that situation is to send him away in a big, black Hefty bag.

I already posted that I put a lasers on my HD weapons, based on choice, I feel that's a better option for my situation. I have no problem seeing at night, based on my lighting situation, but I want to know I'm on target, even if I can't get up over the sights. With a laser, I can fire from any position if I know where the dot is located. Money has zero reasons to do with it, I can afford to buy any weapon or tool that I want. Money is no object. I actually have tried a WL on one of my HD, and didn't like it.

I have zero concerns with a 10 year old in the middle of the day carrying a weapon. My reference was to a tweaker forcing himself into my house in the middle of the night. This is a straw man argument. You can play "what if" until the cows come home. First, my doors are ALWAYS dead bolted at night, I make sure of it and I'm always the last one to bed. So, this situation will never happen in my house. It's MY responsibility to make sure my family is safe. PERIOD.

Notice that it's titled "Assault Firearm".. The dickhead State Police can't even get the correct terminology. There's no such thing as an Assault Firearm. It's a fake name made up by the delusional Liberal gun haters. It's a Semi-auto rifle. This form has zero applications, that firearm doesn't exist.

I used both, I had a personal Android and was given a iPhone from work, so I've experienced both. I've also been a first adopter in the family when it comes to newer technology over the last handful of decades. There's very little difference for over 90% of users, except price. I think you see more issues with Android because many of those users are more advanced users, which can cause more problems. All the people I know who are Apple users do the bare bone tasks on those products and hardly understand technology, so if all you're doing is surfing the Net, updating your Facebook status or sending a text, you're not going to have many problems. Hell, I know a bunch of iPhone users who can't write a basic Word document on their laptop. But they bought a MacBook, just because....

Great point!! I prefer the element of surprise. Being able to see in low light is an advantage, and the probability is, you'll be getting up from sleeping, where your eyes were closed, so the ambient lighting is almost like being in daylight. Another great point, if an intruder tries to get past dogs, you know he has evil intent. There is no delay or discussion needed at that point. Another good one. People should be able to move around your house with your eyes closed and know exactly where everything is. Why would someone give up that tactical advantage by heading down the hallway with a spotlight blinding the way? That's the last good point. Every situation is different, and people need to decide what works best in THEIR situation. It's NOT "a one size fits all" solution.

If someone is wandering around inside my house at 2 or 3 AM, I can guarantee they aren't there for a Birthday Party. First, they had to break in to gain access, so that is the first point of being an imminent threat. What would you suggest I do? Go ask the tweaker to sit down, put on a pot of coffee and have him tell me all his inspirations why he broke into my house and explain all his motivations why he came in uninvited? Then ask him if he has any weapons on him and what he's carrying in his pockets to see if he planned on causing any harm to us? Sure, that sounds like a great plan, right up to the point he beats us up and robs us. First off, I already said, between ambient lighting and strategically placed night lights, I can see fine at night and can readily determine what I would be shooting at. I've run through different scenarios at night, so I have a pretty good idea what I'll encounter in different areas of the house. I've practiced and moved around and tried different cover positions. To insinuate that I'd be stumbling around and shooting haphazardly at boogiemen isn't accurate. I subscribe to the Boy Scout motto, "Be Prepared". With that said, I hope I NEVER have to encounter a situation like that in my lifetime, and that was a BIG decision I had to make when purchasing weapons for HD. Could I pull the trigger in self-defense?

Isn't that a feature and a benefit? Sure beats sleeping out in the shed, right? One suggestion I would make is to seriously look at your power needs during an outage, and make plans to reduce them or figure out what you don't need to run. In my opinion and experience, bigger ISN'T better with generators, because it takes so much more fuel to run them. Unless you have a huge fuel depot, you'll burn through a ton, and not use the majority of the power you're generating. Plus, in most outages, the primary thing you run is lights or small appliances. Why run a 8K generator when you need 1K of power? It's only sporadically that you'll need big bursts of power, for like a furnace. Even newer fridges don't require a lot of power to run. The only reason for a big generator is to fire up central A/C, and that takes a big surge. The question would be weighing how often that situation might happen, versus running a big generator for all the other smaller needs.