Greetings,

 

I had picked up a used M&P40 from the Bullet Hole in December. It had, as other M&P pistols also have, the worst stock trigger I've ever felt. I learned about the Dave Burwell (recognized M&P trigger guru) trigger job that he has listed on his site, and did it to my pistol. The trigger job included...

1. Removing material/reshaping/polishing the sear where it engages the trigger bar.

2. Removing some material/polishing the top side of the sear where it holds the striker.

3. Polishing the striker on all interface points where it is held by the sear.

4. Polishing all interface areas of the trigger bar (sear engagement area and firing pin safety plunger engagement are.

5. Rounding / polishing the firing pin safety plunger.

 

The results of this effort were - slighly lighter trigger release weight, slightly more noticeable and pronounced reset and, the biggest effect, the removal of the gritty crunchy trigger (this was the effect of rounding/polishing the firing pin safety plunger). The trigger was smooth, with only the break being the resistance felt.

 

I received the Apex Tactical hardened sear last Fri and installed Sat morning in anticipation of a shoot at Bullet Hole (which was closed due to a death in the family). The results of this effort were - very noticeable drop in trigger break weight (they say it should come in around 4lbs, I think mine is lighter still since I worked other components of the trigger system), and very noticeable reset. Reset is now audible w/ a pronounced click. In looking at the Apex sear vs. the stock sear that I had worked on, the Apex sear has a considerable amount more material removed from the trigger bar engagement area. When I find a Massachussets compliant trigger spring, I'm going to install w/ the Apex sear. I've been reading that this makes the M&P's trigger much more like a Glock's trigger (which I prefer). This means a more weighted, but smooth pull and release, and a powerful reset. I'd feel much more comfortable if this pistol had the thumb safety w/ this light of a trigger pull.

 

Overall, I have to heartily endorse the Apex sear. It did exactly what it said it would do. Lighten the trigger to about 4+lbs and make the reset much more pronounced. If I get another M&P, the Apex sear will go in it.

The reviews are unreal on the MP siite....

 

If I get another M&P.... I will get it also...

I was reading about the Apex sear over on M4C... any improvement to the reset would probably make it a worthwhile addition.

 

How involved is the process of replacing the sear?

LOL.... I dont know..... but the guys on M-Pistol.com are doing it in 15min.....

 

I am too nervous to try it..... I am sure its easy with the right tools....

You don't like shooting bambi, and you won't work on your own guns. I swear if you didn't work on the goat I would take away all of your man cards!

You don't like shooting bambi, and you won't work on your own guns. I swear if you didn't work on the goat I would take away all of your man cards!

 

 

Listen pussy finger.... Dont even get me started. I will throw my MKIII at you...... and then make you clean it...

I was reading about the Apex sear over on M4C... any improvement to the reset would probably make it a worthwhile addition.

 

How involved is the process of replacing the sear?

 

The process is easier that I thought it would be. Best advice I can give is, go to Dave Burwell's site to get instruction on the home trigger job. This will show how to remove trigger group, take out sear and replace. Having a 1/8" roll pin starter punch and 1/16" pin punch was very helpful.

You don't like shooting bambi, and you won't work on your own guns. I swear if you didn't work on the goat I would take away all of your man cards!

 

 

Listen weakling finger.... Dont even get me started. I will throw my MKIII at you...... and then make you clean it...

 

I've offered to clean it like 20 times already. You were the one whinning that you don't want it cleaned ever!

The process is easier that I thought it would be. Best advice I can give is, go to Dave Burwell's site to get instruction on the home trigger job. This will show how to remove trigger group, take out sear and replace. Having a 1/8" roll pin starter punch and 1/16" pin punch was very helpful.

Will check out DB's site - thx

 

I've offered to clean it like 20 times already. You were the one whinning that you don't want it cleaned ever!

Clean guns are overrated

i am def going to get one.

I do not want a light trigger on this gun, but DEF need a MUCH more pronounced reset.

i am def going to get one.

I do not want a light trigger on this gun, but DEF need a MUCH more pronounced reset.

 

If you want a MUCH more pronounced reset, but don't want a lighter weight trigger, do add the Apex sear AND the Mass. compliant spring. I understand this combo has been the closest thing found to mimick the stock Glock trigger.

The process is easier that I thought it would be. Best advice I can give is, go to Dave Burwell's site to get instruction on the home trigger job. This will show how to remove trigger group, take out sear and replace. Having a 1/8" roll pin starter punch and 1/16" pin punch was very helpful.

Will check out DB's site - thx

 

 

Another thing I remembered.... On Youtube.com, Apex has video instruction for installation of the sear.

 

Bascially, dink out the roll pin near the beaver tail. I used the 1/8" roll pin starter punch for this. Does not matter which side you punch out from (left or right). Once the rollpin is out, pry up the trigger group housing ( it's very easy using the 1/8" punch). Pulling on the trigger helps alleviate pressure here and makes it a lot easier to lift out. Once trigger housing is out, the ejector just pops off. Keep the housing on something level (a table works) and keep the sear side up. Use the 1/16" punch to push out sear pin. There should be no real resistance taking the pin out. Remember, keep the housing sear side up since there is a small detent and spring UNDER the sear. If the housing is kept sear side up, the small detent and spring shouldn't come out. Once the sear pin is out, just lift out existing sear. Replace w/ Apex sear and put sear pin back in place. Put ejector back on left side of trigger housing and fit trigger bar into slot on right side of housing. There are guide detents in the frame that the housing slips back into. Again, play w/ pulling the trigger as it will alleviate pressure on the trigger bar and make trigger housing installation back into frame easier. Once trigger housing is back in frame, do a couple of dry fires to make sure everything is syncing together. Don't forget to put the roll pin back in frame near beavertail. All should be good. Be aware though that if you have a gritty crunchy trigger, I don't believe changing this piece will address the gritty trigger.

 

I've done this process a few times now. When I installed the sear last Sat. morning, it took all of 5 minutes or less.