I believed you said you ordered a blade tech? If so that is probably (for now) the best option to get. DOH, with teklock is the way to go. For mag pouches, it depends on taste and how much you are willing to spend there are many options. I HIGHLY recommend a CR speed belt or something similar because you can set up your belt to your preference, and it will always be the same when you put it on. Also it provides a solid base for your rig and limit the play a conventional belt will have. Don't hesitate to ask questions about gear and stuff. I'm sure members of the forum and myself can provide you with some decent answers that can help you along. One more thing, what type of gun are planning to use? I only ask because if your holster or mag pouches are not in, I can get you some gear to try out if you need.

Thanks for the information. I'll be using my Glock 17 for matches. I ordered the BladeTech DOH teklock. Can't wait for it to come in. I do have a BlackHawk (I think it's called) that I've been borrowing from a friend. And borrowed some mag pouches as well but need to return them this week. I may be able to borrow them again. I don't know yet. I've heard the same things about the CR speed belt which sold me on the idea. Glad to hear someone else reinforce what I've heard.

Thanks again for all the information.

Any suggestions on best sites to purchase from?

Ron,

I can't make the Old Bridge outing because of multiple weddings. I am interested in attending the next one, wherever it is held. I have a Beretta Steel I (92FS single action with steel frame and frame mounted thumb safety) that I think would be a good candidate (I also have a Glock 34 that would probably fit the bill). What would you recommend as a starter kit (holster, belt, mag pouches, and anything else I am forgetting), knowing that I might wish to upgrade in the near future? Thanks.

Keeping in mind I know zero about all this stuff, I would just look into whether or not you would be thrown into a more difficult classification if you used the 34 since it's a competition model. I considered getting it because a lot of people I talked to said how great it was, but then a friend told me it would put me in a competition class. He could have been talking about the glock matches though. I'm not sure. Anyway, just a heads up. I'm a complete newbie so what do I know?

There's no class limitation on mag pouches, except in Production class you need to have the holster and the mag pouches mounted BEHIND your hip bones.

Ron,

I can't make the Old Bridge outing because of multiple weddings. I am interested in attending the next one, wherever it is held. I have a Beretta Steel I (92FS single action with steel frame and frame mounted thumb safety) that I think would be a good candidate (I also have a Glock 34 that would probably fit the bill). What would you recommend as a starter kit (holster, belt, mag pouches, and anything else I am forgetting), knowing that I might wish to upgrade in the near future? Thanks.

i recommend getting a bladetech holster DOH with teklok. Mag pouches are many to list but a safe bet is the dual mag pouch from bladetech with teklok. You will need 2 (to hold 4 mags)you could also get them in a single carrier style. Some people like to carry 5-6 mags for production and single stack. Belt, get a cr speed 2 sizes larger than your waist size.(if you wear a 36, order a size 40 belt) That being said there are countless other companies that make good equipment for the sport. I am suggesting bladetech because it is what I use, most of my friends have bladetech, and most competitive shooters (in certain divisions) use bladetech. For production and limited 10/single stack, I use a bladetech DOH holster with teklok and safariland mag pouches. You can pick up some used equipment if you look around. But as I mentioned in an earlier post, don't buy stuff because it is tactic-cool. Buy it because it is the best for the GAME you are participating in.

Keeping in mind I know zero about all this stuff, I would just look into whether or not you would be thrown into a more difficult classification if you used the 34 since it's a competition model. I considered getting it because a lot of people I talked to said how great it was, but then a friend told me it would put me in a competition class. He could have been talking about the glock matches though. I'm not sure. Anyway, just a heads up. I'm a complete newbie so what do I know?

 

I am not sure about that either. I know that in order to not get stuck in the more difficult class (Open?) at Glock Matches, I would need to have only stock parts (i.e. I would have to remove Wolff springs and Ghost connector). The Beretta is a better gun for shooting tons of rounds anyway because it is all steel. And that one is all factory parts.

10 rounds is the limit in production 5 mags is ideal but you'll do fine with 4. Which gun are you using? I might have some gear for you to borrow.

i recommend getting a bladetech holster DOH with teklok. Mag pouches are many to list but a safe bet is the dual mag pouch from bladetech with teklok. You will need 2 (to hold 4 mags)you could also get them in a single carrier style. Some people like to carry 5-6 mags for production and single stack. Belt, get a cr speed 2 sizes larger than your waist size.(if you wear a 36, order a size 40 belt) That being said there are countless other companies that make good equipment for the sport. I am suggesting bladetech because it is what I use, most of my friends have bladetech, and most competitive shooters (in certain divisions) use bladetech. For production and limited 10/single stack, I use a bladetech DOH holster with teklok and safariland mag pouches. You can pick up some used equipment if you look around. But as I mentioned in an earlier post, don't buy stuff because it is tactic-cool. Buy it because it is the best for the GAME you are participating in.

 

Thanks Ron.

10 rounds is the limit in production 5 mags is ideal but you'll do fine with 4. Which gun are you using? I might have some gear for you to borrow.

 

Does that mean the mags need to only have a ten round capacity, or that they can only be loaded with ten rounds. I would rather avoid buying Beretta 92FS 10 round mags if I can.

Does that mean the mags need to only have a ten round capacity, or that they can only be loaded with ten rounds. I would rather avoid buying Beretta 92FS 10 round mags if I can.

 

They can be higher capacity mags loaded with only 10 rounds. If there are stages that you start with the gun loaded, you can load 11 in the mag, since one will be chambered when you make ready. That allows for 10 in the mag still.

I am not sure about that either. I know that in order to not get stuck in the more difficult class (Open?) at Glock Matches, I would need to have only stock parts (i.e. I would have to remove Wolff springs and Ghost connector). The Beretta is a better gun for shooting tons of rounds anyway because it is all steel. And that one is all factory parts.

I shot my 1st gen g17 with a stock barrel with lots of work inside with no problem at a GSSF match. The g34 and 35 are placed into a different class. In USPSA you can use the 34 and 35 in production, limited 10, and limited. As far as the Beretta being a better gun for shooting because it is all steel? It is a matter of preference. One thing I would recommend to anyone shooting a glock, is to change the factory sights. Dawson Precision, Heine, and Warren Tactical are the most popular choices. My friends and I all have Dawson sights, fiber optic front, plain adjustable rear.(bomar style)

Hands down, best thing to do to a glock next to trigger work.

As far as the Beretta being a better gun for shooting because it is all steel? It is a matter of preference.

 

I just meant to say that the added weight and single action trigger on the Beretta make followup shots easier. I agree with you. Sights are the first thing that gets swapped out on any Glock I buy.

They can be higher capacity mags loaded with only 10 rounds. If there are stages that you start with the gun loaded, you can load 11 in the mag, since one will be chambered when you make ready. That allows for 10 in the mag still.

For the most part stages do start loaded and holstered, meaning 1 in the chamber, mag loaded per division requirements. On occasion you will find stages that require you to start unloaded.

I just meant to say that the added weight and single action trigger on the Beretta make followup shots easier. I agree with you. Sights are the first thing that gets swapped out on any Glock I buy.

If you're DA/SA you have to fire the first shot in DA because you have to holster decocked.

 

 

For the most part stages do start loaded and holstered, meaning 1 in the chamber, mag loaded per division requirements. On occasion you will find stages that require you to start unloaded.

 

Yeah - They went over that rule. There was one stage on Sunday that was started unloaded on a bucket. Had to keep those mags to 10.

If you're DA/SA you have to fire the first shot in DA because you have to holster decocked.

 

That sounds like a real disadvantage. Thankfully my Beretta is Single Action Only. It has a frame mounted thumb safety like a 1911.

That sounds like a real disadvantage. Thankfully my Beretta is Single Action Only. It has a frame mounted thumb safety like a 1911.

I am not up to date on all the rules, but that might not be be production legal.

Here's the list of the guns that are allowed in the Production class:

http://www.uspsa.org/uspsa-NROI-production-gunlist.php

 

Under Beretta it says "no single-action only variants or laser equipped models allowed"

I am not up to date on all the rules, but that might not be be production legal.

 

OK. It was offered from the factory this way. I have not modified it in any way.

Below are the rules I grabbed from the website. I would think it meets the criteria, but I don't know about #3 through 5.

 

1. 2000 manufactured and available to the general public .

2. No magwell attachments or external flaring of the magwell, the lateral internal width of the well may not be more than 1/4" wider than the lateral width of the magazine. The lateral width of the well to mean the narrow width where the mainspring housing is inserted, the lateral width of the magazine to mean the narrow side that faces the mainspring housing when inserted into the handgun.

3. Must meet the criteria listed in the appendix of the current rule book as well as that listed above.

4. The gun must be viewed by NROI prior to its acceptance.

5. A production gun approval form filled out and signed and returned to NROI.

OK. It was offered from the factory this way. I have not modified it in any way.

Below are the rules I grabbed from the website. I would think it meets the criteria, but I don't know about #3 through 5.

 

1. 2000 manufactured and available to the general public .

2. No magwell attachments or external flaring of the magwell, the lateral internal width of the well may not be more than 1/4" wider than the lateral width of the magazine. The lateral width of the well to mean the narrow width where the mainspring housing is inserted, the lateral width of the magazine to mean the narrow side that faces the mainspring housing when inserted into the handgun.

3. Must meet the criteria listed in the appendix of the current rule book as well as that listed above.

4. The gun must be viewed by NROI prior to its acceptance.

5. A production gun approval form filled out and signed and returned to NROI.

What Krdshrk said, "Under Beretta it says "no single-action only variants or laser equipped models allowed"

Krdshrk managed to post while I was researching. Oh well, that's a bummer.

Looks like it will be the Glock 34 if i want to shoot Production.

You can shoot the Beretta, but it will have to be in Limited or Limited 10. In production, there are no SAO guns, ie 1911's, BHP's, etc.

 

For old bridge... since it is 7 stages, I would bring 250-300 rounds of ammo, especially since you do not know if you will have to reshoot, bad batch of ammo, etc.

One thing I would recommend to anyone shooting a glock, is to change the factory sights. Dawson Precision, Heine, and Warren Tactical are the most popular choices. My friends and I all have Dawson sights, fiber optic front, plain adjustable rear.(bomar style)

Hands down, best thing to do to a glock next to trigger work.

Well I did the reverse. Had the trigger lightened first. Going to do the sites this week most likely. Had planned on the Dawson front and just spinning the rear around (have them blacked out now) but have heard that replacing the rears as well may be the way to go since they are designed to go with the front while the stock rears aren't. Ask ten people, get ten different opinions. lol

Well I did the reverse. Had the trigger lightened first. Going to do the sites this week most likely. Had planned on the Dawson front and just spinning the rear around (have them blacked out now) but have heard that replacing the rears as well may be the way to go since they are designed to go with the front while the stock rears aren't. Ask ten people, get ten different opinions. lol

It is the way to go!

The Beretta is a better gun for shooting tons of rounds anyway because it is all steel. And that one is all factory parts.

I love my Beretta. Love love love it! I think partially because at the end of the day I'm a .40 cal gal and moving to 9mm Glock has been a little difficult for me to come to terms with. Plus I so prefer the sites on the 96fs over the Glock (I hate their stock sites!). My only issue with the Beretta is I have been having a lot of misfeeds on ammo over 155 grain which I've heard is pretty common...well misfeeds on 180 grain. Plus I know someone who cracked the frame on three 96's around the 13k round mark. I'm getting there. So, it was time to slow down on the Beretta. I miss it.

I love my Beretta. Love love love it! I think partially because at the end of the day I'm a .40 cal gal and moving to 9mm Glock has been a little difficult for me to come to terms with. Plus I so prefer the sites on the 96fs over the Glock (I hate their stock sites!). My only issue with the Beretta is I have been having a lot of misfeeds on ammo over 155 grain which I've heard is pretty common...well misfeeds on 180 grain. Plus I know someone who cracked the frame on three 96's around the 13k round mark. I'm getting there. So, it was time to slow down on the Beretta. I miss it.

I assume you might be shooting factory ammo? 40 s&w reloaded for production loads are a dream to shoot. Light, barely any recoil, and easy on the gun. Factory 9mm ammo, especially out of Glock is not so pleasant.

I love my Beretta. Love love love it! I think partially because at the end of the day I'm a .40 cal gal and moving to 9mm Glock has been a little difficult for me to come to terms with. Plus I so prefer the sites on the 96fs over the Glock (I hate their stock sites!). My only issue with the Beretta is I have been having a lot of misfeeds on ammo over 155 grain which I've heard is pretty common...well misfeeds on 180 grain. Plus I know someone who cracked the frame on three 96's around the 13k round mark. I'm getting there. So, it was time to slow down on the Beretta. I miss it.

 

Stephanie,

There are models that will withstand the abuse better. Any of the models with the heavier Brigadier slide (Brigadier, Combat, Elite, Billenium, Steel) would do. Also, the models with the Brigadier slides AND steel frames (Billenium and Steel I) would withstand the abuse of 40S&W. I own the Steel I and love it. It is built like a brick shithouse.

I assume you might be shooting factory ammo? 40 s&w reloaded for production loads are a dream to shoot. Light, barely any recoil, and easy on the gun. Factory 9mm ammo, especially out of Glock is not so pleasant.

Yes. Factory ammo...for the time being. After factory .40, factory 9mm in the Glock feels like plinking.

Yes. Factory ammo...for the time being. After factory .40, factory 9mm in the Glock feels like plinking.

If you get the "bug", you will find out that reloading is the way to go. The cost of shooting factory ammo will be more expensive than reloading. Yes you will spend a few bucks getting started, but you will end up saving money in the long run.

Using the calculator found here (http://www.classifiercalc.com/misc_calcs/rc.php) for me to load my limited/L10 rounds in 40 s&w cost me $8.63 for 50

Open 9 major $6.99 for 50, 45acp loads $6.97 for 50, 9mm production loads $6.51. Compare those cost amounts to a box of factory. Now the cost would drop more if I picked up my brass during a match.

Stephanie,

There are models that will withstand the abuse better. Any of the models with the heavier Brigadier slide (Brigadier, Combat, Elite, Billenium, Steel) would do. Also, the models with the Brigadier slides AND steel frames (Billenium and Steel I) would withstand the abuse of 40S&W. I own the Steel I and love it. It is built like a brick shithouse.

Do you know Rusty? He shoots with Ron sometimes at Shore Shot? I think he said it was 96 Brigadier he cracked the frames on. Basically, the 96 is just a .40 cal on a 9mm frame. That's the issue I guess. Who knows. I'm enjoying the Glock...now that the trigger is lightened.

Do you know Rusty? He shoots with Ron sometimes at Shore Shot? I think he said it was 96 Brigadier he cracked the frames on. Basically, the 96 is just a .40 cal on a 9mm frame. That's the issue I guess. Who knows. I'm enjoying the Glock...now that the trigger is lightened.

 

I've probably met him, but nobody comes to mind right now. Cracking a Brigadier slide should be pretty tough. The best thing to do to avoid this situation is to check your locking block often and see how it looks. That is the part that is supposed to take the brunt of the slide movement and be changed out after several thousand rounds. I don't think the slide would crack unless the locking block was worn beyond the point of being able to do its job. I am not a gunsmith so please take my advice with a healthy dose of skepticism.

I've probably met him, but nobody comes to mind right now. Cracking a Brigadier slide should be pretty tough. The best thing to do to avoid this situation is to check your locking block often and see how it looks. That is the part that is supposed to take the brunt of the slide movement and be changed out after several thousand rounds. I don't think the slide would crack unless the locking block was worn beyond the point of being able to do its job. I am not a gunsmith so please take my advice with a healthy dose of skepticism.

Cracked frame, not slide. Shore Shot apparently just had one of the 96 rentals with a cracked frame. Whatever. I'm certainly not losing sleep over it.