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NJ Legal Muzzle Brakes?

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Only problem with that is the BC 2.0 is the same length as an A2 which means its not long enough to bring a 14.5" barrel to 16"+

 

That doesn't matter to me. I have an 11.5" upper anyway. I think he was responding to me, although the point is taken and helpful to others.

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That doesn't matter to me. I have an 11.5" upper anyway. I think he was responding to me, although the point is taken and helpful to others.

Ahhh gotcha. I thought it was going on a 14.5" because of what Caine quoted.

 

I'm about to buy a 14.5", can't decide whether to go PWS or just start out with A2. Since it will be suppressed from time to time,

Well, when I wrote what I wrote, I did in fact mention it for the 14.5" mipa had mentioned... but I should've caught that the BC 2.0 wasn't long enough and wouldn't be good for that application :) oops

Anyone have any opinions or experience with just having a thread protector pinned and forgoing a break entirely? I'm gonna end up upgrading my current upper to a heavier setup for more accurate bench shooting and I can't help but wonder if the heavier barrel and longer gas system will let me skip the added noise of a compensator and essentially break even on felt recoil.

Well, when I wrote what I wrote, I did in fact mention it for the 14.5" mipa had mentioned... but I should've caught that the BC 2.0 wasn't long enough and wouldn't be good for that application :) oops

 

It would be perfect for that application if it cost about $100 less. I don't have barrel length restrictions for these firearms. I'm just too cheap to buy a comp the cost of a tax stamp.

Maks: I run a Troy Medieval brake. It gets the job done, though the side concussion is expected. It was on that same rifle of mine you put some rounds down range with a few Sundays ago.

Wow, I'm not spending that much money on a comp. I think the PWS price of nearly $100 is rediculous. I appreciate the suggestion, I'm just way too cheap for that.

 

I am cheap also. The work I would need is threading, dis&re-assembly, break welding, I am up there in price and didn't even buy the break yet! That, and the breaks are a pain to clean. I think I will leave my target crown as is for now, and wait until I move to a better state so I can get what I really want.

I think Adco charged me $150 shipped to install my brake.

I'm cheap too, but that was well worth it, getting the factory brake off of my Colt. That thing was really obnoxious.

Maks: I run a Troy Medieval brake. It gets the job done, though the side concussion is expected. It was on that same rifle of mine you put some rounds down range with a few Sundays ago.

Doh! How did I forget you had one - I guess I have shot a gun that has a Troy brake

  • 5 months later...

Anyone know someone in CNJ who does a good job attaching a break?

Paul at arms and ammo did a great job on my brake. He's pretty much central jersey. I shipped it to him and he had it back in my hands in a week including shipping time. He also did my lug. Great job and quick service. He's got a section on the site. His price beat everyone else

DPMS Miculek Brake worked BEST for me.. (on 2 308 rifles and 1 5.56 AR)

 

CTD has the standard AR15 type for $30 vs Midways $45..

 

I drilled mine.. then put on.. then dimpled the barrel.. then removed..

 

then use 8-32 TAP set (from Lowes for $7 comes with #29 bit)..

 

then also buy some 3/16" long x 8-32 Threaded Set Screws for $0.70..

 

TAP the Brake.. then thread in the 3/16" screws.. grind FLUSH with BRAKE.. then Weld..

 

or just Drill Brake and Dimple the Barrel.. and Drop Some 'WELD' into the HOLE..

 

This is my take on it.. though not PERFECT and not legal advise..

 

or send to ADCO and $$

DPMS Miculek Brake worked BEST for me.. (on 2 308 rifles and 1 5.56 AR)

 

CTD has the standard AR15 type for $30 vs Midways $45..

 

I drilled mine.. then put on.. then dimpled the barrel.. then removed..

 

then use 8-32 TAP set (from Lowes for $7 comes with #29 bit)..

 

then also buy some 3/16" long x 8-32 Threaded Set Screws for $0.70..

 

TAP the Brake.. then thread in the 3/16" screws.. grind FLUSH with BRAKE.. then Weld..

 

or just Drill Brake and Dimple the Barrel.. and Drop Some 'WELD' into the HOLE..

 

This is my take on it.. though not PERFECT and not legal advise..

 

or send to ADCO and $$

 

Sounds like a really good way of doing things..never thought of using the threaded rod. I have to send my next project out to Adco to have the brake welded..eventually once im in a free state i'm going to supress it and the brake has to be trued to the bore by an authorized shop.

It's the one step I'm not set up to do properly, it pains me to have to do in the 1st place!

Still trying to find someone local who can do it? Sending it off would be rough, when I wanna get it to the range ASAP!!!

  • 4 weeks later...

that's the one i was actually trying to link to

the stoner heli-port

 

it doesn't specifically say it's a flash hider so how would one know

 

Well, being that is doesn't have any baffles or expansion chambers, it's not a comp. It also doesn't look like it will be much of a flash hider. What it looks like you are buying is a useless tube with holes in it.

I've seen those recently. They look sweet!

They are sweet, but they dont hide flash at all (they dont claim to though either). I have to get my friend to send me the vid of me shooting it at night.

14.5" barrel + dynacomp + xm193 = large fireballs :icon_mrgreen:

 

They also have a shorty version if you dont need the extra length to make your barrel legal length. http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=XSTSBV1021&name=Spikes+Tactical+Dynacomp+Extreme+Short&groupid=54

I have no idea what brake/comp this is, but it sure is effective. It may be POF proprietary. In their literature they call it a BC-5A, but a quick google turns up nothing under that designation. Similar to many others on the market.

 

25uptoj.jpg

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

I have no idea what brake/comp this is, but it sure is effective. It may be POF proprietary. In their literature they call it a BC-5A, but a quick google turns up nothing under that designation. Similar to many others on the market.

 

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

AFAIK thats POFs older design, the newest generation has 3 ports on each side now http://emergingtacticalsolutions.com/223-Muzzle-Break-POF008.htm

If its the YHM 5M2 model its not so good compared to my Miculek for reducing recoil.. others will chime in and say BattleComp or PWS556

I run a "RRA Tactical Muzzle Brake" it has the word tactical in it so it must be good. ;) It is CRAZY loud though and who ever is on either side of you won't like you very much. On the upside, (yeah I know 5.56's have no recoil buuut...) it's actually functional and sends the rifle directly back into your shoulder , it has zero rise.

 

FHTacticalMB.jpg

 

$30-$35

The tactical brake from rock river arms is good, I got for $25 dollars, but now I think they sell them for $35. Nice cheap muzzle brake, It holds up pretty well compared to my $100 dollar gogun model. The .223 doesn't have much recoil anyway, I would say any brake will do well.

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