so, I've been sweating an M1 since I shot Lunkers a while back, along with other obviously reasons, I'd like to add to my collection. I don't thinks its fair to have a mosin and K31 and not a Garand. ..

 

Anyway, I want a nice one, but I want a shooter as well. I'm not looking for one to stick in the safe and forget about so I'm not sure what route to go. I would like to buy from the cmp, most likely going to be ordering and having it shipped becuase I just don't have the time to go to OH. I also am leaning towards one with a new stock, I like the looks..

 

So what say you, Garand experts? I don't mind spending a bit more for something nice, however I don't want to ruin one that should not be shot a bunch... what cmp grade will get me the best of both worlds?

I've never been disappointed with the Service Grades ($595) I've gotten. I have gotten new stocks with 2 of them. If you want something more special as a shooter the Special Grade ($995) comes with a new barrel, new stock, and will have other parts refinished or new. A friend of mine bought one and it is nice.

 

The benefit of going to the store is you can find a nice Field Grade ($495)and save $100. I got a FG with VAR barrel measuring a 2 at each end that maybe should have been a SG.

The next CMP trip is scheduled end of summer Sept time frame........

Thanks guys.. I was looking hard at the "Special" grade last night, its tempting.. Eric, in all honesty, I most likely won't have the time to head out there until Sept. so that may work, but I know me, and I don't have the patience to wait that long... or do I?

if you don't mind spending money, the correct grades they have are real cherry. At 1100 bucks with an original usgi stock and all parts matching still gunked in cosmo, you can't go wrong

Matt, any issues with loosing value, should the Correct grades be shot or kept tucked away?

IMO a CMP garand will never lose value.

 

Honestly if you bought a correct grade m1 today, you shot it non stop for the next two years and then sold it as long as you don't have retarded muzzle or throat wear you could easily sell it for 2000

 

You gotta remember one thing when it comes to the prices of garands. There were only so many made. They are at this current time no longer importing anymore garands and as far as orest is concerned they probably won't ever import anymore ever again unless things with the higher ups change. The only reason a garand on the private market is selling for a 1000 bucks is because of the cmp. The cmp is reporting they have enough guns at current sales volume to last 2-3 years maybe 4 years at the most. Once they run out of garands expect all prices across the board on the private market to at least add 500 to each price.

 

I will buy a correct grade before they sell out but my checkbook needs to recoup first. The service grades they have are nice metal but I absolutely hate the new stocks. If I'm buying a cmp garand I want an original stock not a repro.

 

So you have two options but the Correct grade now and know you have an awesome gun.

 

Or wait for them to open some more containers at the cmp and see what they start shipping out and then order that way.

 

ORRRRRRRRRRR wait until they release 1903's because we will be making the trip again without a doubt.

 

M

Thanx Matt... I'm seriously leaning towards the "M1 Garand, HRA (Harrington& Richardson) Correct Grade".. from what I've read, were are less hra's built, so "could" be worth more in the future? Again, not buying as investment, but might as well lean one way or another...

Honestly if you bought a correct grade m1 today, you shot it non stop for the next two years

 

Well yes...and no. There was a guy on the CMP forum who was a High Power and service rifle competitor that took the time to track throat erosion with round count. Shooting as he was throat erosion went up one number per 1000 rds (he had tracked it to about 6000 rds when I saw this). It tends to slow down as it gets worse. The barrel needs to be replaced at about 8-10. One guy said he had a M1 that the throat measured a 10 and it was his most accurate rifle. Go figure! Shoot a lot of rapid fire and throat erosion increases faster. I hazard a guess that it would take most of us sometime to add significant throat erosion to a barrel that measyred a 1 or 2. Muzzle wear is mostly the result of poor cleaning practice so that can be reduced with a boresnake from the rear and use of a muzzle guide from the front.

 

Barrels are considered are considered a consumable by serioud rifle shooters. A friend who has his Distinguished Rifelman Badge from CMP and consistently ran in the top 10 (winning or placing at times) in several categories at Camp Perry changes his AR barrels for competition at 3000 rds.

 

The easy way to tell if a M1 has been rebarreled is to look at the breech end. If its bright its been rebarreled, if its finished its original.

Great info Griz. I don't think I'd put 1000 Rds downrange with the one I buy, so I should be ok

keep an eye on the north store reports prior to going. People post some very detailed reports and it will save you from a wasted trip if your looking for something specific.

 

M

Why settle on one...

 

This has been my solution. I've bought some Garands when I really wanted to get something else beacause reasonably priced M1s are a finite resource as has been said. Got some to to shoot (which I will never need to rebarrel) and some for the grandchildren.

mailed my paperwork in today for the HRA correct grade.. can't wait!

mailed my paperwork in today for the HRA correct grade.. can't wait!

 

Awesome! I am excited myself, recently mailed in a order on the 1st for a Service Grade HRA.

mailed my paperwork in today for the HRA correct grade.. can't wait!

 

Hey Don why the HRA over the SA? Are the more desirable and collectable?

there were less HRA's made than Springfields so technically they are more collectable. People arn't realizing this because the CMP has a ton of HRA's right now b/c that is what has come around in the rotation. Plus Springfield is a huge name so some people would technically pay more for a known name most people don't know who HRA is.

 

Going with the HRA is a solid choice IMO and you won't be disappointed

Thanks Matt. Hopefully will be getting one soon.

Hey Don why the HRA over the SA? Are the more desirable and collectable?

Yeah. What Matt said :-D! All kidding aside, that was my reason. I've read reports of the hra's being better shooters, etc, but my main reason was the quantity made vs the others..

 

For some reason I'm more excited about this rifle than anything else I've purchased, could be the unknown as far as what will arrive. Can't wait till we can ding some steel at cjrpc..

can't wait to see it Don.

can't wait to see it Don.

If I had a Nickle...

Thats great, let me know when you take it to CJRPC, I will try & join you w/ my Special.

Thats great, let me know when you take it to CJRPC, I will try & join you w/ my Special.

Awesome. I will.. could probably use some pointers and help as well...

Whoo hooo... just got this via email from the CMP...

 

We have received and verified your recent order. Your order will now advance to our sales area and from there to our shipping area. Please note, that unless otherwise listed, our order to ship time is at least 30-60 days. You will receive other emails as the order progresses

Whoo hooo... just got this via email from the CMP...

 

We have received and verified your recent order. Your order will now advance to our sales area and from there to our shipping area. Please note, that unless otherwise listed, our order to ship time is at least 30-60 days. You will receive other emails as the order progresses

 

Yea now it's the hard part.....waiting. I got my DBU email on the 11th, should be soon, judging by the Timeline on the CMP forums.

Yea now it's the hard part.....waiting. I got my DBU email on the 11th, should be soon, judging by the Timeline on the CMP forums.

 

Just went to the E-store, looks like they are going through orders pretty quick, only took 25 days.

FYI: I got mine in, and for a Service Grade it is amazing!

 

make sure you get something onto that stock. That thing looks UBER dry

make sure you get something onto that stock. That thing looks UBER dry

Yea it is very dry, I just got some Tom's 1/3 Mix I'd like to try.

If it were ME...BEFORE the 1/3 Mix.....and prior to at least 4 coats of RAW linseed oil...maybe five...or at least till the stock doesn't soak up anymore....

 

I would use a nice walnut stain to darker it a bit....then do the linseed....then after is is 'dry' then and only then do the 1/3 mix of which I would do 3 coats...

 

The beeswax will add in waterproofing the wood...and will negate some of the saturation effects of the RAW linseed oil prior to wood hydration.....

 

Do NOT use tung oil finish...or BLO....you can read online as there are things in the BLO and the finish that make them dry....

 

good looking rifle....just got a 192 round 30 cl can.... HXP 1980 in bandos....VERY choice and clean....

 

I was under the impression Raw Linseed oil takes forever ever to dry or doesn't. I have some BLO, and also some Fairtrimmer's Military Oil. I think the Fairtrimmers stuff looks great. Would you recommend that in place of RLO?

YMMV but every one of my enfields has had a dose of RAW linseed oil....I purchased at a art supply store...none of mine are slick to the touch or seem....to have an oily residue.

 

You need to watch the wood as you apply it....if the wood is 'thirty' it'll soak right in....the trick is to know when enough is enough....

 

There are MANY far better articles out there that talk about gun stock finish and in my mind some go entirely to deep....as i was told enfields stocks were dunked in hot raw linseed oil and left to hang dry... we as collectors I think dwell waaaaaaaayyyyyyyy too much on certain things that were really never thought of for weapons of war.....

 

I venture a guess that the average GI could care one lick less whether his garand was finished with RLO BLO TUNG OIL etc....as long as it was accurate and functioned !

 

You're right, Ill give it a try and post my results.