Im puzzled on how the cleaning rod is stuck, unless you bent it (in which case you should be able to wiggle it out) or you have a bullet in the barrel somewhere. Out of curiosity, can you see the primer of the stuck case? Is the primer slightly out of the primer pocket? The last time I had a case stuck in the chamber what I really had was a case with no flash holes, the primer backed up as it fired, the case still had all the unburned powder and bullet attached. The problem was that the backed out primer was pushing the bold hard against the locking lugs. A round remaining in the case would also explain getting the rod stuck. Did that round actually fire before getting stuck in the chamber?

Got a healthy air compressor? 120psi might dislodge it.

PSF + acetone, interesting, thanks for that link.

Im puzzled on how the cleaning rod is stuck, unless you bent it (in which case you should be able to wiggle it out) or you have a bullet in the barrel somewhere. Out of curiosity, can you see the primer of the stuck case? Is the primer slightly out of the primer pocket? The last time I had a case stuck in the chamber what I really had was a case with no flash holes, the primer backed up as it fired, the case still had all the unburned powder and bullet attached. The problem was that the backed out primer was pushing the bold hard against the locking lugs. A round remaining in the case would also explain getting the rod stuck. Did that round actually fire before getting stuck in the chamber?

 

I am puzzled as well. My guess is that the rod entered the case and bent inside the case, i can get a slight wiggle but nothing more. I think tonight I may bust out vice grips and the mallet to try to get the cleaning rod out.

As I was hammering i knocked the primer completely out of the case, so it aint there no more no more no more no more.

I tried heating it with a propane tourch with no luck.

I have also used WD-40 in the muzzle and around the base of the case and let it sit with no luck.

 

I'm going to take this as a sign and relpace the barrel. When I get it off the upper I'll have more access and try something else.

I am puzzled as well. My guess is that the rod entered the case and bent inside the case, i can get a slight wiggle but nothing more. I think tonight I may bust out vice grips and the mallet to try to get the cleaning rod out.

As I was hammering i knocked the primer completely out of the case, so it aint there no more no more no more no more.

I tried heating it with a propane tourch with no luck.

I have also used WD-40 in the muzzle and around the base of the case and let it sit with no luck.

 

I'm going to take this as a sign and relpace the barrel. When I get it off the upper I'll have more access and try something else.

 

 

Can I have the old, ruined, no good, junk barrel with the case stuck in it?

Can I have the old, ruined, no good, junk barrel with the case stuck in it?

 

Maybe.

He wants it for free, I'll give you $10

if it were me, i'd put a block of wood under the upper (off the lower) and a block of wood on the end of the cleaning rod...make sure it is square and whomp the sucker with a few good shots with a hammer(or have some one else do it while you hold it square)

the rod is useless at this point, you are about to write the barrel off..that that first. i bet you find that the case was scraped by someting and it galled the chamber up

I think once I get the barrel off the upper I can get into the chamber and try to cut the base of the case off, leaving just the walls. After completing that I should be able to bend the crap out of the case and remove it.

I may have myself sold on a new barrel regardless. A friend is doing a build so if I choose to part with the barrel he gets first dibbs, if he doesn't want it I'll decide what to do with it.

I'm not taking down a list of names at this point so don't hold you breath or claim dibbs.

On a positive note my AR build is nearing completion so when it's done I'll start a new thread with pics.

Mortaring means slamming the rifle on the buttstock while pulling back on the charging handle. You need to completely collapse your stock before you do this otherwise you run the risk of damaging it.

 

*edit: I thought post 20 was the last post hence my explanation of mortaring

Mortaring means slamming the rifle on the buttstock while pulling back on the charging handle. You need to completely collapse your stock before you do this otherwise you run the risk of damaging it.

 

*edit: I thought post 20 was the last post hence my explanation of mortaring

 

 

A day late, a dollar short, and you forgot this is NJ and it is quite difficult to completely collapse a stock that has been pinned in position!

 

But other then that, it was a great explanation!

 

Yeti, any chance of getting some pics up? I'm still baffled at what exactly happened that caused such an apparent disaster!

I'll try some pics when I get home tonight.

I'll try some pics when I get home tonight.

 

 

Hey Bubba, My offer in the PM still stands before it gets too screwed up!!!

before you cut the back of the case off, try a slide hammer screwed into the primer pocket.

 

If you don't have a slide hammer and want to borrow one, I will be down your way next wkend if you want to wait that long...

 

If that fails - then I am with your idea of cutting the back of the case off and folding the walls of the case into the center to remove the case.

Hey Bubba, My offer in the PM still stands before it gets too screwed up!!!

 

Yes, I appreciate it, and may take you up on it if I can't fix it myself.

Thanks

before you cut the back of the case off, try a slide hammer screwed into the primer pocket.

I like that idea, thanks.

 

If you don't have a slide hammer and want to borrow one, I will be down your way next wkend if you want to wait that long...

I will let you know

 

If that fails - then I am with your idea of cutting the back of the case off and folding the walls of the case into the center to remove the case.

I was going to say...get a metal screw, screw it in grab that with pliers.

MedicYeti, if you feel like driving up to my house you are welcome to all of my AR tools, and any assistance I can provide. I will remove the barrel for you, and I agree that once the barrel is out I am sure we can get the case and rod out. Just let me know if I can be of assistance.

It is a 223 chrome lined chamber. I learned the hard way that it doesn't accept 5.56 when I first got it.

 

Um... you never said it didn't take 5.56... thats what my brass ammo is... =@

Joel: thanks, I have some of the basic tools so I should be OK, I just need to find the time to devote to it. If I find I need additional assistance I'll let you know. Thanks my friend.

One of the best things about this forum is how people will go out of their way to help another shooter. Cudos to all the people who have offered suggestions, tools and assistance!

 

One dumb question from a new AR owner. You can shoot .223 and 5.56 in a 5.56 barrel but you can only shoot .223 in a .223 barrel? Is this correct?

Thats a good rule of thumb. 5.56 has slightly looser specs on the cartridge size, and higher pressure. .223 in 5.56 is fine, the other way around you are asking for trouble.

 

Read this: http://www.thegunzone.com/556v223.html

One dumb question from a new AR owner. You can shoot .223 and 5.56 in a 5.56 barrel but you can only shoot .223 in a .223 barrel? Is this correct?

 

Yup - That's why I got a 5.56 Barrel/chamber

Thanks Nick, I did get a 5.56 barrel as well because that was what Tim told me to do, I just wanted some clarification. I have learned that if Tim says to do something, it is wise to follow his advise.

Yup - That's why I got a 5.56 Barrel/chamber

 

How does this apply to a bushmaster ACR which says it shoots .223/5.56?

How does this apply to a bushmaster ACR which says it shoots .223/5.56?

 

That probably means it has a 5.56 chamber. And then there is the wacky .223 Wylde which unless you want a specific combination of wacky accuracy you should stay away from, its basically a hybrid chamber.

That probably means it has a 5.56 chamber. And then there is the wacky .223 Wylde which unless you want a specific combination of wacky accuracy you should stay away from, its basically a hybrid chamber.

 

Well, .223 is .223 it has less freebore and a tighter leade than 5.56. Also, as far as I can tell, there is a difference between the no-go and field guages for the chamber. Which is mostly a matter of maintenance except where it impacts how many chambers you cna cut off of one reamer before the chamber is out of spec. But that is going ot be a QA issue with a given manufacturer rather than a reliable rule.

 

Wylde plus all the wacky variants thereof are basically somewhere in the middle. They have a little more leade and throat than .223, but not as much as 5.56, and I believe they use no-go and field guages closer to .223 for tolerances.

 

 

In that mess, you have .223 wylde (JP, ranier), armalite match chambers, noveske's 5.56 Match Mod 0 chamber, USMC SAM-R chamber, compass lake has a 5.56 reamer to their spec out there, and those are just the examples I know of off the top of my head. As to what the specs of any of those ACTUALLY are, who the hell knows. Heck, depending on who's reamer you buy, you get different dimensions for what is supposed to be the same thing. You will also get some variance as the reamer wears before they toss it for a new one. so...

 

 

http://ar15barrels.com/data/223-556.pdf

Thanks Nick, I did get a 5.56 barrel as well because that was what Tim told me to do, I just wanted some clarification. I have learned that if Tim says to do something, it is wise to follow his advise.

5.56mm NATO versus 223 Remington Chamber Differences

5.56mm NATO versus 223 Remington Chamber Differences

 

 

Nick- Excellent article. Nice because it's alot of info in one place.

Out of curiosity, what chamber do you have (.223 or 5.56) and is it chromed or not? My two stuck cases have been in VERY dirty chambers (think 1000+ rounds between cleanings) but in a chromed 5.56 barrel.

 

You clean? I just oil the lube holes in the BC before and after each trip. After a few trips I lube the upper and the BCG with oil without taking the bolt out. I will detail clean perhaps once a year. More for the purpose of inspection than the purpose of cleaning. I only shoot about 5K of 5.56 a year lately, though. But it worked when I shot more.