My Saiga was 3 holer with 1 partially obscured by the GB. Even with the MD plug (have since gone to a Tac 47 Auto Plug), it wouldn't cycle Rem Target loads on setting 5. I took off the GB and enlarged 2 of the holes to 3/32, drilled a fourth hole and enlarged the main GB port so that it wouldn't obscure any of the gas holes. Now it will cycle the Rem low brass on setting 4, slugs and buck run on setting 1.

This is the piece that was sent with the shotgun when I bought it. I don't know if it is susposed to be better than the original Saiga piece, or if it simply a 922 compliant piece.

 

I can understand that by blocking the gas ports it will change the amount of force that will go through the gas system. Too much will be a bad thing!

 

I'm not sure how adjustable my system is. It seems the three holes are right in-line with each other, but maybe they are staggered front to back. I see no way to remove the gas system without drilling pop rivets.

 

I will leave it on setting 1 and run the buckshot through it this week. That is what I bought the gun for. No wussy-loads for that gun!

1) The MD piece you have is called the gas piston and it counts as a 922r part. It probably isn't any better or worse than the stock part.

 

2) I would prefer slightly over rather than under gassed and then use a good aftermarket gas plug (The thing that screws in) to regulate the gas.

 

3) As mentioned by others, the stock plug only has 2 settings. The gas holes are arranged in a "V" with the point facing the rear of the gun. You can remove the gas block by drifting 2 pins out and tapping the block free

 

This is the piece that was sent with the shotgun when I bought it. I don't know if it is susposed to be better than the original Saiga piece, or if it simply a 922 compliant piece.

 

I can understand that by blocking the gas ports it will change the amount of force that will go through the gas system. Too much will be a bad thing!

 

I'm not sure how adjustable my system is. It seems the three holes are right in-line with each other, but maybe they are staggered front to back. I see no way to remove the gas system without drilling pop rivets.

 

I will leave it on setting 1 and run the buckshot through it this week. That is what I bought the gun for. No wussy-loads for that gun!

If I have problems with buckshot then I will remove the pins and take a look at things.

 

So, the gas plug simply unscrews and as it does more of the gas ports are exposed, correct? Since my stock gas plug only has two notches in it to lock it in place, I only have two settings. Unscrewing it further and locking it back into the #1 position will be too much I assume.

 

I have a local machine shop that LOVES to make/modify things for me, and he never wants to take my money. I can give him the stock gas plug and let him put more notches in it to give me more than 2 positions. He also likes guns, so he'd be glad to do it for me.

 

What does that piece from MD Arms actually do? It looks like it simply gets pushed back by the gases to push the rod backwards. I guess they (MD Arms) machines it to a tighter tolerance so the gases don't get around it? Or that's what they plan-on. I think I am understanding how this whole gas-system works.

If I have problems with buckshot then I will remove the pins and take a look at things.

 

So, the gas plug simply unscrews and as it does more of the gas ports are exposed, correct? Since my stock gas plug only has two notches in it to lock it in place, I only have two settings. Unscrewing it further and locking it back into the #1 position will be too much I assume.

 

I have a local machine shop that LOVES to make/modify things for me, and he never wants to take my money. I can give him the stock gas plug and let him put more notches in it to give me more than 2 positions. He also likes guns, so he'd be glad to do it for me.

 

What does that piece from MD Arms actually do? It looks like it simply gets pushed back by the gases to push the rod backwards. I guess they (MD Arms) machines it to a tighter tolerance so the gases don't get around it? Or that's what they plan-on. I think I am understanding how this whole gas-system works.

I am unaware of the details concerning the aftermarket plug.. just enough to understand that it is machined with more than two settings.. as you assumed.. I am not sure you could replicate it with a factory plug...

Screwing the stock gas plug in and out does not change the amount of gas. The cuts on the underside of the plug are responsible for that. Your friend at the machine shop is not going to be able to come up with the correct configurations for the additional gas plug settings. Buy the MD Arms plug for $25 and you will have five unique settings that will allow for the optimal amount of gas. Also, with the MD Arms plug, you don't make use of the detent pin any more, making it easier to change settings without any tools.

https://www.mdarms.c...&products_id=16

 

Also, here are some pictures of Pauly's work on smoothing things out. I considered working on mine, but after the reviews I read and the pictures I saw, I knew he would do a much better job than me.

http://forum.saiga-1...s-bolt-special/

 

The other piece you are referring to is known as the gas puck. It sits in front of the piston and makes contact with it and drives it back when gas flows through the ports. This is a shotgun-only piece. Saiga rifles do not use a puck.

This is a closeup of my MD V plug.

 

 

Note the different size cutouts to adjust the amount of gas entering the system. These correspond to the detents on the periphery (below the screw thread) of the plug which will have the detent pin riding in them when the plug is on the gun.

 

Sorry Lunker, but you will need the stock detent pin to make this, the Tac 47 autoplug and most gas plugs to work in a Saiga 12. In the case of the MD V plug, you won't need to depress the detent pin in order to adjust the plug.

Yup, bad wording on my part. I meant you don't need to press the detent to change settings, like you do with the stock plug.

Before you go drilling any holes on the gun, contact Tom Cole at Cadiz Gun Works (he's also at the saiga forums as Vankiller) because he's contracted to do warranty work on defective guns. I believe he's still doing that for the newer importers. At any rate, if your gun is undergassed, see what he has to say about getting it fixed.

 

Also, if you go to the Tromix website, I think Tony Rumore is still offering the saiga break-in and maintenance pamphlet as a downloadable pdf.

 

FWIW I ran 500 rounds of birdshot to break in my S-12 (that made for a fun day). It's never once choked on Remington Target Loads. Like any semi shotgun, it can be finicky about ammo so you may want to mix it up and see if that makes a difference. As far as I know, it hates the cheap Winchester stuff and I've never used that on the gun.

Like any semi shotgun, it can be finicky about ammo

 

 

THIS..

 

 

and as stated before.. if the gun is new.. unbroken in... gas ports all there.. look unobstructed.. then there is really nothing to "fix".. yet that is..

Ok, took the gun to my outdoor range, ran one mag of #7 1/2 target load through it on position #2. Almost worked correctly. Wouldn't fully eject the spent shell.

 

Put it back on position #1 and ran a mag of buckshot, worked perfect. Ran another mag of buckshot, still perfect.

 

Put it back on position #2 and ran another mag of #7 1/2, worked perfect.

 

Going to buy a case of buckshot and destroy some stuff while further breaking-in the gun!

 

Thanks for the help guys, had a blast with it today, pun intended!