Ok, so i have been toying around with the idea to start reloading for many reason's. I have been reading up on the subject, mainly on the mechanical aspects and processes. I have yet to really venture deep into reloading as i want to get a good overall basis for each step, and then learn the tweaks of each individual step. Right now i have a horndady LNL in sight since many have recommended it and i am more keen on purchasing something that i wont get bored with. I'm used to working with small parts and paying close attention to detail since many of my hobbies require a high amount of mechanical knowledge.

I've started to read up on what i will need to get myself started. Right now i want to purchase the turret and everything i will need for it but i'm kinda lost and don't want to order the wrong stuff. I know there are many different variations with turrets but i'm looking for the best basic option for now until i obtain more "know how".

I'm looking to reload 5.56 to start and i was wondering if you guys could point me in the direction for a properly set up LNL. For me, it's easier to learn with the parts in hand so i can examine what and how each part works. Are the dies and base plate all that i need to purchase and which ones are recomended? anything that is a must but technically not required, like a powder check die? I appreciate the help, everything else is pretty strait forward.

Alot of guys will tell you to start with a single stage or a turret press, but im an all or nothing guy

I just got a LNL after using a turret for a yr, wish i went straight to the LNL AP progressive, But i learned the basics on it.

 

What you need...

 

1.The shell plates for your caliber

2.Extra shell plate springs because they will singe when you need them most

3. Fraknford arsenal powder scale- $30

4. I like the ultimate reloader's bullet tray(makes loading faster)

5.Dies for your caliber (I like the lee carbide 4 peice set)

6.Frankford arsenal digital caliper (to correctly measure the length of your bullet so your gun doesn't go boom)

7.LNL Bushings to hold your dies

8. hornady one shot degreaser/lube to clean the press

9. VERY VERY FINE SANDPAPER TO DEBUR THE PRIMER SYSTEM.

10 I use rem dry lube to lube everything between caliber changes.

 

 

 

It comes with powder measure and priming system so all you should need for it is the stuff i listed plus bullets,primers,brass,&powder

 

I recommend http://www.powdervalleyinc.com/ for components like primers and powder. I only reload for handguns and i use Missouri Bullet CO. lead and love it.

If im missing anything im sure TBTrout or Colonel mortemer can help you out too

Powder Valley is a great place to buy components from.

If you ever venture out and find yourself near a gun store with reloading components or Cabelas, pick up some supplies and save yourself money on shipping and hazmat charges.

I can't help you with LNL, because I am a Dillion fanboy.

You will need brass tumblers and media to clean dirty brass. Look into the Frankford Arsenal brand. (find it at Midway)

Get yourself a "good" scale. Don't want to F-up on your powder weights.

Get a current reloading manual (or two) or a proven recipe from someone you trust.

Best bet would be to ask someone who has the same press as the one you have/want, and learn the process involved.

If you get an LNL, make sure you take a lot of time and care cleaning it when you initially unpack it.

A lot of problems pop up if you don't get the packing "grease" off of everything.

 

If you plan on changing calibers regularly get a bunch of the die collars.

I just store the dies in the collars so when I want to switch Just pop out current die set from the press, pop

in the new set, make a few small checks and adjustments and I'm up and running.

As tempting as it is to start out with a fancy progressive press... My opinion is that it's best to start with a simpler press like a turret. When starting out I think it's best to focus on the basics and become very familiar with every part of the reloading process. A simple turret press will help you achieve that, as you focus on a single operation at a time. With a progressive press, there's so much going on at once and your likelihood of making mistakes definitely goes up when you're a newbie. Focus on learning and knowledge, as in the beginning that is more important that quantity of ammo that you can produce in a hour (with a progressive).

 

Once you become really familiar with every part of the reloading process and you feel very comfortable with understanding every aspect of it, then I would go with progressive press. The initial investment in a turret press like the Lee Classic Turret is pretty small, so I think it's worth it. You can reuse your die sets from the turret press in a progressive press, so you're not losing out there. The turret press itself is only a $100 investement... which to me is worthwhile to ensure you learn. Also, you can keep using the turret for ammo where you really want to pay special attention to detail (precision rifle ammo, etc..)

 

I'm not saying that you can't learn properly with a progressive... I am just of the opinion that starting out with something simpler will help you learn better, as it forces you to take the time to understand each step of the process.

Have someone mentor you in the basics.

It really is not that difficult if you pay attention to what you are doing.

Have someone mentor you in the basics.

It really is not that difficult if you pay attention to what you are doing.

 

Yes, I agree with that Ron. Having someone show you the ropes or that can answer all your questions in the beginning definitely helps a lot.

 

Reloading is not rocket science... it's actually quite simple once you understand what needs to be done... but it is something that requires very good attention to detail.

The reason i want to start with a progressive is that i know i will quickly become bored with a turret or hand system, and with a progressive i can run one shell at time paying close attention to each station until i get the hang of it. With stuff like this, i usually start in the middle in order to save my self from having to upgrade.

 

I was seriously thinking about starting with something smaller, but when i started to get the big picture, the systems are basically all the same, the progressives just allow you to use each station at the same time, while it can increase error, it still requires the same amount of skill to properly set up the dies. Like said your using the same dies and same amount of steps your just doing one at a time. The only thing that seems to be different is that the progressive presses don't allow you clean the primer pocket, unless you remove the cartridge to clean it.

 

I also want to load 9mm, and i really like the bushing system the LNL has. I realize that i still need to make sure the dies are set correctly but i like the idea of being able to swap them in and out.

 

I've watched a ton of videos on how to properly set up a LNL in many different calibers, aside from fine tuning which will be the hard part. I already have a scale from my previous hobby(its in grams but i can convert to grains), Once i get a good reloading manual i can get a better idea of how to make the fine adjustemts, but like i said before, i seem to learn very quickly with instruction and parts in hand..

 

I want to get a good set of dies to start with as well or at least one or two really good ones so i can maximize shell life. People suggested getting resizing dies that maximize brass life by limiting the amount of unnecessary force on the casing. Hornady powder check die, and the .223 rem. seating die and the full-length match resizing die are so far my picks. I couldn't find much for a crimping die.

Should i learn on rifle or pistol rounds? .223 or 9mm?

 

As you can probably tell i'm more of a jump in the deep end sink or swim kinda guy..

I'll make this short but to the point. I started out with a progressive press and have never thought bad of starting with this but I also had a fantastic teacher who took his time and made sure I understood EVERYTHING before I left his house from lesson one.

 

Now that I have that out of the way I will stress that it is absolutely imperative you get a single stage press as well. Not only does it make sense to have a single stage to do simple things like depriming but also when you are making test loads I feel there is no better way to do it but than on a single stage.

 

Also I reload ALL of my rifle rounds on a single stage as I want accuracy and leave my progressive for the pistol calibers.

 

Another thing to note with progressives as far as reloading rifle. You need to realize that you can not load a case that has caselube on it. so you'll be using your progressive for the first two steps, taking your cases out, cleaning off caselube and then starting your process again. Also a lot of guys like to actually meter their charges instead of just letting the press meter it for you, so if you plan on doing that it's another step you need to take the case out of the press etc.

 

With all that said I plan on upgrading my Dillon Square deal to a Dillon 650 for a few reasons.

 

A. I want a caseloader for my pistol rounds.

 

B. I'm super lazy and when I'm depriming cases I don't like loading and unloading a case. With a progressive I can set a tool head up with just a depriming die, and only have to feed my cases in and let the machine eject my deprimed cases out thus speeding up my process and feeding my laziness.

 

C. I do want the ability for/if I get a 1919 to be able to make rifle rounds quickly for the sole purpose of blowing crap up so exact accuracy isn't the goal and here is where a progressive will come in handy.

 

Obviously I'm another Dillon Blue fanboy and wouldn't trade my Dillon equipment for anything else in the world. I just wish Dillon would come out with a single stage press with an integrated priming system as well as a way to collect the primers like the Lee presses have unlike my RCBS press and I'd be a happy boy!

One other thing, what gun do you plan on using the rifle rounds in? I see you mentioned 5.56 so I'm going to assume that means an AR-15 so make sure you get all full length sizing dies.

Right now i want to reload for sheer volume, not necessarily quality, although i will probably end up in the middle of the two. I figure.. if i start reloading now with-in the fisrt two years of even owning firearms, i can save a lot on ammo aside from the initial purchased of equipment. I can run cleaner powder and make the same standard ammo xm193 for 100 bucks cheaper per 2,000 rounds, and thats including buying new S.L.C. brass. Once i get enough brass to keep reloading its almost 300 in savings per 2,000.

 

I will be reloading for my ar-15 and Beretta M9A1. Once i get a .308 or 30-06 i will probably dive into precision reloading.

 

I'm kinda known for being self-taught(independent), i learn better when i have to do it on my own making mistakes and figuring out the right way to do it. I'm known for locking myself in until i get it right(i can be very OCD) which is why something like reloading helps me mentally. Some people find stuff like this stressful while i find it relaxing.

 

So it's easier to reload pistol rounds.. or rather more strait forward? With .223 i would need to de-prime/re-size on a single stage w/ lube then tumble and load on the progressive.. I figure i'll start to reload for the long term cost savings and basically just to start learning how to do it, once i get the knowledge under my belt i figure i will move into precision and cartridge dynamics. Im not gonna aim for competition type ammo off the bat but i want to work my way up to it.

let me just remind you something, when you mess up in reloading chances are your face or hands get messed up. My advice to you is find someone you live by and pick their brains as much as you can before reloading so you don't end up a statistic

let me just remind you something, when you mess up in reloading chances are your face or hands get messed up. My advice to you is find someone you live by and pick their brains as much as you can before reloading so you don't end up a statistic

I plan on hand measuring every aspect of every stage of every round. I wont be loading any rounds which aren't heavily scrutinized, even if this means taking 5 min's to load one round. Like i said OCD runs deep over here, if one thing i'm going to strive for it's consistency.

It is way easy to start with pistol ammo. To reload rifle cases you have to properly prep them before loading, that means rezizing (which involves lubing the cases), removing the lube, trimming the cases to spec, swaging the primer pockets... I started with pistol ammo and later moved to .223 and some of my reloader friends don't even reload it to avoid the hassle.

I plan on hand measuring every aspect of every stage of every round. I wont be loading any rounds which aren't heavily scrutinized, even if this means taking 5 min's to load one round. Like i said OCD runs deep over here, if one thing i'm going to strive for it's consistency.

 

If that is the plan, you will do fine with a single stage.

If that is the plan, you will do fine with a single stage.

Would it be wise to get the hornady single stage kit? since it comes with everything but the dies but still utilizes the bushing system? This way i can purchase the progressive down the road and it will give me the ability to just pump out more at a time.. For me, i'd rather reload rifle rounds, even if its more difficult, they cost more and i can use the salt lake city brass from my spent xm193 bulk i have. 9mm ammo is relatively cheap and good cheap brass can be hard to find. and i don't have any other caliber to reload just yet.

I plan on hand measuring every aspect of every stage of every round. I wont be loading any rounds which aren't heavily scrutinized, even if this means taking 5 min's to load one round. Like i said OCD runs deep over here, if one thing i'm going to strive for it's consistency.

 

That's a great way to start. Get the progressive but only do 1 round at a time until you get the hang of the basics.

 

Once you are comfortable, then start doing multiple operations at once.

I plan on hand measuring every aspect of every stage of every round. I won't be loading any rounds which aren't heavily scrutinized, even if this means taking 5 min's to load one round. Like i said OCD runs deep over here, if one thing i'm going to strive for it's consistency.

 

This sentiment is exactly why I bought the single stage first.

If i need a single stage or turret for rifles, i might as well get a good single stage skip the turret and get a progressive when i become efficient enough. I was worried about buying something i would grow out of quickly, but if a single stage is necessary for rifle rounds then it is a must have in my book. I'll get a progressive when i get bored i guess and it will be more of an addition then a replacement. If i were doing pistol rounds only i would probably just go with a progressive.

A turret can be use as a single stage...

A turret can be use as a single stage...

It can be, but what i had in mind was that the Hornady LNL classic is in-between the two, and the bushings can be interchanged. This way i can move between presses for different applications. If i want to work on a load the single stage could be better, but if i find something i like i can switch over easily to the progressive. Some guy figured out a way to make a spacer so the die fitments matched between the two.

 

And maybe it's just me but i don't really like how the dies move around the case, i'd rather do the stages individually to create consistency, instead of completing one round at a time, or have something like a progressive which utilizes and optimizes the process. I dunno if that makes any sense or not.

I too have been toying with the idea of reloading and have been flipping the coin for a little while now between the L-n-L AP and Dillon 650 and after being out in AZ at the folks house and doing a little tour at the Dillon factory and getting to play around on each of the machines, I have decided on getting the 650. I like the Dillon warranty better, plus I have a good friend that has reloaded on the 650 for quite some time and will check my initial setup as well as double check everything before I start my first run of 40 S&W.

 

I understand the single stage to start with, but I know myself, I will want the progressive too soon to make it worth my time, however if I didn't have someone who knows the 650 inside and out I would go the single stage route first.

 

One thing I didn't see mentioned is reloading handbooks, I would suggest the Lyman 49th edition that I just finished reading once so far and next is the ABC's and back to the Lyman's to refresh my brain and then additional ones, Speer, Hornady, etc.

 

Harry

I'm gonna pick up the Lyman handbook this week. I was looking at the dillons, and the 650 looks very enticing, do forum members still get discounted from dillon?

I'm gonna pick up the Lyman handbook this week. I was looking at the dillons, and the 650 looks very enticing, do forum members still get discounted from dillon?

 

The last I herd was yes we do.

 

Harry

Do the handbooks cover specific manufacture dies in detail? I was looking at picking up the hornady book since i would be using a hornady press, but i have herd conflicting reviews about that particular book and the charges being wrong even for hornady products. I'm trying to get an overall feel for what each book has to offer that others don't cover as much or in detail.

 

Reading the lyman's manual right now... amen to the people who took the time to put all this data together.. Although i would like to get a "tricks of the trade" book but i don't think they exist.

Almost all of the manuals I have seen offer load data for caliber, bullet type, weight, and powder.

Assuming you follow the recipe, the finished product should end up the same.

Chrono results may vary depending on gun you use.

Do the handbooks cover specific manufacture dies in detail? I was looking at picking up the hornady book since i would be using a hornady press, but i have herd conflicting reviews about that particular book and the charges being wrong even for hornady products. I'm trying to get an overall feel for what each book has to offer that others don't cover as much or in detail.

 

Never trust a single source for a load.

When multiple sources have very similar loads you can be confident that when you make up a starting load, you aren't gonna hurt yourself.

Lyman is good, the Hogden/Winchester/Imr website is good, and there is a database Reloader's Reference that pulls load data from multiple sources.

Having an extra single stage is always good if you choose to start there. I always reccomend Lyman 49 as a first read. Followed by Sierra #5 and Speer #14. I have at least 8 manuals to look at as well as internet sources. You will be surprised how much they can all vary on chrges and bullet weights.

 

I am a bit of an oddball as I prefer to load my pistol on a couple of Dillon SDb's and my rifle on a RCBS Rockchucker. Most people are scard by the SD's proprietary dies but the cost is not much of a difference when you buy a whole conversion kit ( unless you use Lee dies, yuck ) Anyway, now that I pissed off a few people fell free to pm me with any questions. I have taught quite a few people to reload. If nothing else pick as many brains as you can because we all have our own tricks, tips and quirks. some may work for you and some may not.

Excellent, you guys have been very helpfully, thank you! Now i have some reading up to do!