I know, i know... there's about a million of these.

 

Hope there's room for one more.

 

My AR build goals:

Low Cost - Less than $1000

Lightweight - 7lbs

Reliable, Rugged - my go-to shtf rifle

Flexible - CQB, and 400 yard

 

 

Some requirements:

1:7 twist

Chrome lined barrel

Flat top receiver

Fixed stock (NJ)

Quad rail hand guards

 

What I have so far:

Del-Ton 16" 1:7 chrome lined, flat top upper receiver

Del-ton Bolt Carrier Group

Midwest Industries Gen2 Drop-in 2-pc railed hand guard (new, $90)

UTG PRO Model 4/15 Carbine Length Symmetrical Split Slim-Rail Quad + Rail covers

Troy Medieval Muzzle Brake

Rainier Arms Mini Compensator

5x PMag 30's, pinned to 15

 

Cost so far: $570

Minus $50 gift card

Total = $520

 

Yet to decide on:

Lower receiver (del-ton complete lower, with ACE ARFX stock, and Magpul MOE grip = $280)

Optic - 2-3 MOA Red Dot (Primary Arms Micro, or Bushnell TRS-25)

Stock - ACE ARFX Entry, or Full Skeleton are in 1st place

BUIS - Magpul BUIS

 

Extras:

 

Pic as-of 3/28/12:

 

Any suggestions? Thanks!

 

 

EDIT: Bad math, Added "Extras," and made some corrections

EDIT2: 500 > 400 yards. Added gift card.

EDIT3: Compensator. Shortened port.

EDIT4: Primary Arms M3 for Optic, Removed UTG Hand Guard (returned), Removed Grip-Pod

Flexible - CQB, and 500 yard capable

 

 

That bit there... not gonna happen. First off, .223/5.56 is a very marginal round for shooting at 500 yards from an accuracy perspective. To get the best of a marginal round for those ranges, you really want a 24 inch barrel and probably 77gr SMK heads. That'll get you the highest velocity with highest sectional density in a cartridge that will still function from an AR-15 magazine. That's not a CQB setup, but you can hit a reasonably sized target out to 600 with it, and the odds of that load functioning usable in terms of wounding is probably out ot about 400 yards. I'd have to plug in an actual load to a ballistic calculator.

 

Then you have wound ballistics. At 500 yards, you are going to lose enough velocity that you really aren't going to find much that is within it's optimum velocity range to wound effectively. Out of a 16" barrel, you definitely are not. Without going to having one type of bullet for "close" and one for "far", about the best you can do is get a useful effective envelope from 0-350-ish yards out of a 16" barrel. but you aren't going ot buy that ammo off the shelf as it will be a squat 60gr bonded soft point loaded to 5.56 pressures. Loading it yourself, be prepared to shell out close to $0.70 per round. For putting holes in paper, the math changes a bit.

 

Yes, the marines qualify to 500 yards... with the b-mod target. Which if my google fu has yielded accurate results, the top scoring zone is 40" x 20". Which is "legitimately scare people, but not really have a guarantee of hitting anything" accuracy. That's the 5 point area, you can still score hitting basically somewhere in a 72x72" area.

 

Also, are you going to be able to hit jack at 500 yards without an optic? Cause that right there is about 2lbs of mass on the gun.

That bit there... not gonna happen. First off, .223/5.56 is a very marginal round for shooting at 500 yards from an accuracy perspective. To get the best of a marginal round for those ranges, you really want a 24 inch barrel and probably 77gr SMK heads. That'll get you the highest velocity with highest sectional density in a cartridge that will still function from an AR-15 magazine. That's not a CQB setup, but you can hit a reasonably sized target out to 600 with it, and the odds of that load functioning usable in terms of wounding is probably out ot about 400 yards. I'd have to plug in an actual load to a ballistic calculator.

 

Then you have wound ballistics. At 500 yards, you are going to lose enough velocity that you really aren't going to find much that is within it's optimum velocity range to wound effectively. Out of a 16" barrel, you definitely are not. Without going to having one type of bullet for "close" and one for "far", about the best you can do is get a useful effective envelope from 0-350-ish yards out of a 16" barrel. but you aren't going ot buy that ammo off the shelf as it will be a squat 60gr bonded soft point loaded to 5.56 pressures. Loading it yourself, be prepared to shell out close to $0.70 per round. For putting holes in paper, the math changes a bit.

 

Yes, the marines qualify to 500 yards... with the b-mod target. Which if my google fu has yielded accurate results, the top scoring zone is 40" x 20". Which is "legitimately scare people, but not really have a guarantee of hitting anything" accuracy. That's the 5 point area, you can still score hitting basically somewhere in a 72x72" area.

 

Also, are you going to be able to hit jack at 500 yards without an optic? Cause that right there is about 2lbs of mass on the gun.

 

I appreciate the detailed information, and I have noticed that you are very helpful and forthcoming on these forums. So, I don't mean to sound like a dick...

 

But to be honest, there's a lot of "ballistic engineers" on the internet that claim you need this or that to be effective at certain distances.

 

Tell you what. Go get shot at from 500 yards away by a 16" 5.56 rifle, and let me know how it feels. Calculate all you want, it will be plenty effective.

Ideal? maybe not.

Hit a Dime? probably not.

Maximum Penetration/Power? Definitely not.

 

40"x 20" - What do ya' know... that's ROUGHLY center mass on a man-sized target, or a neck shot on a mid-size animal.

 

Sure this is my first AR build, but my time spent in the military, combined with my expert marksman medal obtained year after year shooting a M16 5.56 with iron sights at 100, 300, and 500 yards goes against all the uber-ballistics you can find.

 

This isn't a Super Sniper build.

It's a shtf, hunt for sustenance, hump for days through the brush, do-it-all, go-to rifle build.

 

If you take a look at the "Yet to decide" section of my rant, you'll see I plan to get an optic, plus magnifier.

 

Oh, and my long-range sniper build will be a .308, eventually.

 

EDIT: My current ammo is 62gr. M855. Which will perform well out of a 16" 1:7 barrel.

True, 77gr. is better for long range, and increased penetration. But it's just not worth the cost.

Lightweight - 7lbs max

 

Let me chime in on this. 7 lbs with an optic and an Hbar upper is not gonna happen. My 14.5" lightweight barrel with only iron sights weighs in around 6.3 lbs

Let me chime in on this. 7 lbs with an optic and an Hbar upper is not gonna happen. My 14.5" lightweight barrel with only iron sights weighs in around 6.3 lbs

 

Probably right. It was a goal i may not meet.

 

Let's see...

 

Del-ton tells me the Upper is 4.5 lbs.

Lower + Internals w/o Pistol grip or Stock = 13.5 oz.

Pistol Grip = 3 oz

Ace skeleton Entry stock = 13 oz

BUIS = 2.2 oz

Quad rail forend = 8.6 oz

 

So far that's 7.15 lbs., or 112.6 oz.

 

But, with a 7.5 oz Strikeforce, or Aimpoint CompM3/M4..

I'll be at ~ 7.6 lbs.

 

Of course... not including Magazine, Magnifier, ammo, etc.

 

Do these weights look right?

 

 

EDIT: +3oz for CAR buffer tube/spring/buffer

This may help you some http://vuurwapenblog.com/calc.html

 

I just weighed mine without the upper, the lower half was about 2.2 lbs (MOE stock and grip, Spikes T2 buffer), the upper was 4.1 lbs (14.5" lwt mid w/ pinned comp, MOE handguards).

What's with the obsession with super-lightweight rifles? I used to carry an 8-9lb shotgun all day deer hunting, and recently moved to a 12lb gun. The 12lb gun is a bit excessive, yes... but 8-9lbs is nothing.

Areas where I can reduce weight:

 

BUIS - Magpul BUIS - 1.3 oz

Optic - Vortex SPARC - 5.2 oz

Optic - Bushnell Trophy TRS-25 - 3.7 oz

 

Can front sight post be replaced with Gas block + magpul sight?

You cant use the Magpul sights on a gas block, may melt the plastic.

 

Heres a thread with alot of rifle weights listed http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_118/547299_AR_weight__grabs_those_scales_let_me_know_what_they_say_and_Pics.html

This may help you some http://vuurwapenblog.com/calc.html

 

I just weighed mine without the upper, the lower half was about 2.2 lbs (MOE stock and grip, Spikes T2 buffer), the upper was 4.1 lbs (14.5" lwt mid w/ pinned comp, MOE handguards).

 

Thanks alowerlevel.

 

That calculator gave me 7.05 lbs.

 

Magazine included. No ammo, No Optic.

 

With ammo and Micro optic = 8.26 lbs.

 

So i believe i will just about meet my weight goal, minus optic and ammo.

You cant use the Magpul sights on a gas block, may melt the plastic.

 

Heres a thread with alot of rifle weights listed http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_118/547299_AR_weight__grabs_those_scales_let_me_know_what_they_say_and_Pics.html

 

Ah, yes. That was an extreme idea anyway.

 

Aimpoint T1 Micro Red dot is 3.7 oz with mount! Nice.

 

But way too expensive for this project.

I don't like fancy. I think you're over building. The middle rifle is my GOTO and effective to 300yds grouping 6", obviously with A2 irons which you are familiar with. I'm not clearing houses in Fallujah. It gives me more versitility than a 16" barrel. The little 16" rifle is my wife's and the 24" tack driver is for the obvious. All these rifles are proven and if you need help specing something you can PM me.

I don't like fancy. I think you're over building. The middle rifle is my GOTO and effective to 300yds grouping 6", obviously with A2 irons which you are familiar with. I'm not clearing houses in Fallujah. It gives me more versitility than a 16" barrel. The little 16" rifle is my wife's and the 24" tack driver is for the obvious. All these rifles are proven and if you need help specing something you can PM me.

 

Really? I'm surprised you say I'm over building. Is it the optic/magnifier?

 

In truth, the optic is so I can get my fiance to come shooting with me.

We've shot (rented) several different rifles together.

The one she enjoyed the most was an AR-15 with a red-dot site.

 

Also in truth, I enjoyed it too.

 

The rifle will have iron sites. The optic is just "extra."

 

 

As far as the rest of the rifle goes, I'm focusing on either budget, or weight.

Sure the 1:7 twist, chrome lined barrel could be considered unecessary.

What I like about the 1:7 twist barrel is that with proper ammunition ($$$) I can eliminate/reduce the claimed "weakness" of the 5.56 rifle: Power, Range, Penetration.

 

Plus,

No fancy bolt carrier group

No fancy gas piston

What's with the obsession with super-lightweight rifles? I used to carry an 8-9lb shotgun all day deer hunting, and recently moved to a 12lb gun. The 12lb gun is a bit excessive, yes... but 8-9lbs is nothing.

 

Lightweight is nice when you're humping 20 miles, with a rifle and an 80 lb. pack.

Been there, done that.

 

That said, my goal isn't absolute minimum lightweight.

I'm going for more of a "lightest weight possible, within reason."

 

The really, really lightweight stuff costs dollars. Or is impossible to find (C-15 lower).

Really? I'm surprised you say I'm over building. Is it the optic/magnifier?

 

In truth, the optic is so I can get my fiance to come shooting with me.

We've shot (rented) several different rifles together.

The one she enjoyed the most was an AR-15 with a red-dot site.

 

Also in truth, I enjoyed it too.

 

The rifle will have iron sites. The optic is just "extra."

 

 

As far as the rest of the rifle goes, I'm focusing on either budget, or weight.

Sure the 1:7 twist, chrome lined barrel could be considered unecessary.

What I like about the 1:7 twist barrel is that with proper ammunition ($$$) I can eliminate/reduce the claimed "weakness" of the 5.56 rifle: Power, Range, Penetration.

 

Plus,

No fancy bolt carrier group

No fancy gas piston

 

I'm just saying 20" barrel gives you a greater sight radius.

and when it come down to it I don't really want anything that is not uber rugged or requires batteries.

Not for you but for the GF....Gotta learn on irons. That's what your Uncle taught you wasn't it?

I'm talking defensive. Give me the basics and minimize the things that can fail.

I appreciate the detailed information, and I have noticed that you are very helpful and forthcoming on these forums. So, I don't mean to sound like a dick...

 

But to be honest, there's a lot of "ballistic engineers" on the internet that claim you need this or that to be effective at certain distances.

 

Tell you what. Go get shot at from 500 yards away by a 16" 5.56 rifle, and let me know how it feels. Calculate all you want, it will be plenty effective.

Ideal? maybe not.

Hit a Dime? probably not.

Maximum Penetration/Power? Definitely not.

 

40"x 20" - What do ya' know... that's ROUGHLY center mass on a man-sized target, or a neck shot on a mid-size animal.

 

Sure this is my first AR build, but my time spent in the military, combined with my expert marksman medal obtained year after year shooting a M16 5.56 with iron sights at 100, 300, and 500 yards goes against all the uber-ballistics you can find.

 

This isn't a Super Sniper build.

It's a shtf, hunt for sustenance, hump for days through the brush, do-it-all, go-to rifle build.

 

If you take a look at the "Yet to decide" section of my rant, you'll see I plan to get an optic, plus magnifier.

 

Oh, and my long-range sniper build will be a .308, eventually.

 

EDIT: My current ammo is 62gr. M855. Which will perform well out of a 16" 1:7 barrel.

True, 77gr. is better for long range, and increased penetration. But it's just not worth the cost.

 

IS 5.56 at 500 yards enough to make someone take cover? Hell yeah. I wouldn't want to get shot by it. Hence my "legitimately scare people" description of that level of accuracy. As far as to lethality, the velocity at that range is WAY outside the envelope of most of the bullet design. Some light varmint rounds might still expand, but anything that won't grenade in 6 inches of flesh up close won't do well at the velocities at 500 yards.

 

M855 is particularly subject to these issues as it really tends to stay in one piece unless it is above a certain velocity. It's accuracy is also pretty poor. It's why the military is replacing it with something faster and more accurate, and getting clever with the penetrator design to expand the range of velocities at which it separates into at least two parts of significant size.

 

You seem to have a grasp of the basic accuracy potential of the rifle at 500 so you will probably be happy. When most people want "accuracy" at that range, they aren't talking 8 moa accuracy. But FYI, take a measuring tape to yourself. I'm 6'7" and not all leggy. I still fall short of a 20"x40" torso. As for mid-sized game with a 40"x20" neck? What. a moose? .223 at optimal range isn't going to work well on a moose unless you shoot them in the brain, or hit between two vertebrae for a perfect spinal cord shot. Hit any bone and you might not even piss the moose off. Heck, even a heart shot would probably leave you chasing the thing for a good distance.

M855 is particularly subject to these issues as it really tends to stay in one piece unless it is above a certain velocity. It's accuracy is also pretty poor. It's why the military is replacing it with something faster and more accurate, and getting clever with the penetrator design to expand the range of velocities at which it separates into at least two parts of significant size.

 

You know, I really haven't done enough research on the M855 round.

In all honesty, I purchased M855 in bulk as my "break-in" and plinking round.

Once I break the rifle in and feel more comfortable, I'll have to review different ammo types for defense.

 

As for mid-sized game with a 40"x20" neck? What. a moose? .223 at optimal range isn't going to work well on a moose unless you shoot them in the brain, or hit between two vertebrae for a perfect spinal cord shot. Hit any bone and you might not even piss the moose off. Heck, even a heart shot would probably leave you chasing the thing for a good distance.

 

LOL! You got me there. Maybe a grizzly bear?

 

What I was trying to say is that 5.56 w/16" barrel is "good enough" for those distances.

Absolutely, 5.56 does not excel at the extremes of either CQB, or 500 yards.

But it fills the gap for the purpose.

I would be able to hunt and provide sustenance for myself and others, as well as defend myself in an urban setting.

 

...maybe I should have said "CQB to 400 yards," to keep the debate simple.

 

CQB - give me a SBR 12 gauge shotty, or a pistol+blade.

500 yards+ - .308 squad support rifle.

 

Ideally, I would LOVE to have a large stockpile of 77gr. rounds.

But given the excessive cost, I must succomb to the reality that Zombie outbreaks and US government coup's only happen in the movies.

when it come down to it I don't really want anything that is not uber rugged or requires batteries.

 

I abolutely agree with you.

But that won't happen until Trijicon ACOG optics fall below $200.

There's hope.. how much did it cost to purchase an M4 when they first came onto the market?

You are setting yourself up for disappointment.

 

Lets start with the 500 yard issue. The spec for most US military ammo is 2 inch mean radius at 200 yards. This works out to about 3moa, or 15 inches at 500 yards. Mind you, this spec if for a test barrel fixture, likely a 2 inch bull barrel that weights 10lb and is attached to a slab of concrete. An actual real life barrel will add something to that number, but the manufacturers also tend to make ammo better then the spec, so lets call that a wash, assuming a good barrel. We are also assuming here that the ammo we buy as "milspec surplus" is really milspec, hasn't been bashed around in plastic bags, stored improperly, etc.

 

Of course now that barrel needs to be somewhat stable, but you are using a non-free floated rail system. That means the no matter what you do the barrel will not be able to perform at its best. If you rest the handguards on anything (bench rest, sand bags, bipod, backpack, whatever) you will be applying pressure to the barrel and not only will you groups open up, they will also move elsewhere every time you rest the rifle because you will never do it the same way twice.

 

And then there is zero and estimating holdovers. The most common zero's are 50/200 (not the same but close enough for this conversation) or 300 yard. With a 200 yard zero your bullet drop at 500 yards is 56", with a 300 yard zero you are down 40", assuming M855 at velocities common from 16" barrels.

 

If you go the red dot way your dot will be 2moa or 4moa. 2moa dot at 500 yards is 10inches, so you will be aiming at your target by putting he dot 5-4 dot thickness ABOVE the point you are trying to hit, which is not exactly a precise way of aiming at anything.

 

And of course all of these assume your rifle is somehow benched and rested on some device. Are you planning to drag sandbags everywhere or are you adding a bipod (barrel bending from lack of free float notwithstanding)? Add the weight and cost of the bipod to your math. To be honest, shooting your rifle from the bench is way to get a false sense of what you and the rifle can do, because outside the range that will never happen. Shoot from prone, sitting, standing positions and use improvised rests like branches, posts, etc. All those things now make it all that much harder to hold that dot 5 sizes above the target.

 

I'm not talking out of my a** here. Every year the one thing that kicks my a** is the NY state rifle match which is practical rifle match, with dark houses, mud, moving targets, and time pressure. They also like to use all 420yards of their long range, and I shoot a red dot. That long range stage kicks my a** every year, this year I came in 12th out 132+ people and I would have been 3ed if you threw away that stage. Long range withou GOOD amplified optics is hard. The effective range of a red dot from non-benched positions is 200-300 yards. Even with good optics, the issues of inherent ammo accuracy, barrel accuracy, free float, and rest are still in play.

 

And speaking of dark houses, if you think CQB is in your future you will probably want a light of some sort. They have weight and if they are hanging from a non-free floated barrel they will change your point of impact so zero your gun with the light on and leave it on. Also count lights towards your financial and weight budget. Don't forget a good sling.

 

 

I'm not telling you this because I'm being a dick or because I don't think you should build an AR. They are very fun rifles and depending on the configuration and ammo they can be tack drivers. But you need to be realistic about what a $1000 rifle with a 16" barrel of unknown providence, with surplus ammo and a red dot can do. I'm not picking apart your plan because I hate you, you need to know what you can reasonably expect or you will be sorely disappointed. If the numbers above are NOT what you want or are not something you willing to live with then you need to re-evaluate your plan and reconsider how much you are willing to spend.

Oh, and another thing, all those numbers assume you are not out of breath, heart pumping, tiered, under time pressure (or god forbid incoming fire), you adrenaline is nice and level, you are not canting your rifle (harder then it sounds with a red dot), your cheek weld is consistent, there is no cross wind, no haze, no mirage, no rain, etc. In other words, never. Also it assumes you have nice trigger in your gun that doesn't move the whole rifle around from being 7lb.

Very well stated Vlad. All I have to add is that if your eyes have a little age on them it makes some of the above even worse! My advice, use your budget to build a solid quality AR. If you have budget left go with a good RDS. Down the road pick up some optics on a QD mount as part of your "kit" for the rifle. In my honest opinion the holy grail of a broad spectrum rifle effective from 0 to XXX meters may really be a 308 semi.

where in NJ do you think youre ever going to take a 500 yard shot

I have to agree with Vlad G and the others in their assessment and advice. What makes the AR an interesting platform is that it is capable of being able to stretch it's limits, and relatively well. However, I do think that if a budget is being considered and is the most important factor, focus on one task-- and improve upon it later, or get another rifle to fit another purpose.

 

The only advice I have to add is that if you haven't already considered it, after building an AR, instead of focusing on what a tool can do, focus on how you can better use said tool. Buy a ton of ammo, take courses, etc. Even if you have advanced experience with it, shooting is a perishable skill. I am finding out, every time I get the opportunity to shoot with more experienced/trained, that I have a lot to add to my repertoire and plenty of polish to be done.

So my original reply was full of critical comments and light on helpfulness.

 

Here is what I would do if my budget was $1000 for an AR. I would go to the Bravo company website and pick the following:

 

$140 BCM bolt group http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-Bolt-Carrier-Group-MPI-Auto-M16-p/bcm%20bolt%20carrier%20group%20auto%20mp.htm

 

$399 BCM M4'ish upper group http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-M4-16-Upper-Receiver-Group-p/bcm-urg-m4-16.htm

(I would spend the $489 for the 16" mid length system, but thats me and we have a budget)

 

$360 BCM lower group http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-Lower-Receiver-Groups-M4-AR15-s/117.htm

(for that money you can get standard collapsible stock or the A2 one. You indicated you might want the ARFX length stock so go A2 for now which means you don't have to get it pinned either)

 

$23 Bolt handle http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/AR15-Charging-Handle-BCM-p/bcm%20charging%20handle%20ar15.htm

(I'd spend $22 more and get the Gunfighter one, its awesome http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-GUNFIGHTER-Charging-Handle-GFH-Mod-4-p/bcm%20gfh%20mod%204%20556.htm)

 

$30 Magpul MOE handguard http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/Magpul-MOE-Enhanced-Handguard-BLACK-p/mag440%20blk.htm

(still not floated, but you can still attach stuff to it, its rugged and someone will buy it if you want to replace it)

 

$58 Magpul rear sight http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/Magpul-MBUS-Gen-2-Rear-Back-Up-Iron-Sight-FOL-p/mag248-fol.htm

 

-----

 

Total: $1010.

 

As you will need to pin your muzzle device order Nordic Tactical Comp http://shop.nordiccomp.com/Nordic-Components-Tactical-Compensator-223-Black-Oxide-CMP-TC-22-BK.htm

Its $40, works great, and it is the same diameter as the barrel so once permanently attached you can still remove the gas block if you want to rebuild your upper with a different handguard or gas block. It doesn't look scary though, but it works like a champ.

 

That's what I would do, because you can always build in top of this gun. You would have a rock solid performer that is worth customizing later.

As you will need to pin your muzzle device order Nordic Tactical Comp http://shop.nordiccomp.com/Nordic-Components-Tactical-Compensator-223-Black-Oxide-CMP-TC-22-BK.htm

Its $40, works great, and it is the same diameter as the barrel so once permanently attached you can still remove the gas block if you want to rebuild your upper with a different handguard or gas block. It doesn't look scary though, but it works like a champ.

 

I've been looking for something like this, for your exact reason: Once pinned, you can still get stuff on/off the barrel later on. And affordable. The other place I found was www.peaktactical.com They have some nice stuff too, little more variety.

I'm talking defensive. Give me the basics and minimize the things that can fail.

 

 

+1. Kiss

Oh, and another thing, all those numbers assume you are not out of breath, heart pumping, tiered, under time pressure (or god forbid incoming fire), you adrenaline is nice and level, you are not canting your rifle (harder then it sounds with a red dot), your cheek weld is consistent, there is no cross wind, no haze, no mirage, no rain, etc. In other words, never. Also it assumes you have nice trigger in your gun that doesn't move the whole rifle around from being 7lb.

 

You guys are really getting hung-up on the 500 yard thing huh?

 

I provided a functional RANGE.

 

An AR platform is IDEAL for 50-300 yard engagements.

It will hit stuff at 5 yards, and 500 yards.

BUT not ideal in either scenario.

 

I didn't say "Tack driver at 500 yard targets all day."

 

Moving on...

where in NJ do you think youre ever going to take a 500 yard shot

 

There are a few ranges within reasonable driving distance.

I have to agree with Vlad G and the others in their assessment and advice. What makes the AR an interesting platform is that it is capable of being able to stretch it's limits, and relatively well. However, I do think that if a budget is being considered and is the most important factor, focus on one task-- and improve upon it later, or get another rifle to fit another purpose.

 

The only advice I have to add is that if you haven't already considered it, after building an AR, instead of focusing on what a tool can do, focus on how you can better use said tool. Buy a ton of ammo, take courses, etc. Even if you have advanced experience with it, shooting is a perishable skill. I am finding out, every time I get the opportunity to shoot with more experienced/trained, that I have a lot to add to my repertoire and plenty of polish to be done.

 

Good advise. I'm building a tool.

How effective one can be with that tool depends on the individual shooter + training.

Good advise. I'm building a tool.

How effective one can be with that tool depends on the individual shooter + training.

 

 

Thats true to some extent. If the tool doesn't function or poor in its performance the shooter can only do some much.

 

DTTuner, I have no idea what your experience is with the AR platform, but it sounds to me like you are going to expect a lot from not a lot of gun. My comments are meant to save you some grief later, but feel free to build whatever looks good to you.

 

Good luck.