Ordered this the other day - should be coming next week.

 

 

Any tips to share that aren't covered in Hornady's instructional youtube vids?

Very nice, enjoy. As far as tips, there are a few here that have that one so they should be able to help you out. Did you get a case feeder also??

I also added a powder verification die.....good suggestion from the forum

 

Don't waste the money on the micrometers for the powder measure...just buy the regular

Ones as extras and set them and forget them for The. Loads you are using...

 

The primer feed likes some primers more than others...

 

 

I had the Hornady Powder Check Die already ordered when I inquired on here about using a station for this. I got more thumbs up on the Powder check lock out die (I think from RCBS IIRC) than the Hornady one I have. I don't know being I haven't got one yet but will be getting one to check it out. Just another option to look at before you or someone else make a final decision on what to buy.

 

I am also happy with the factory powder system on my Dillon also, and I see no reason like you said on your Hornady to buy something you really won't have a use for and just pick up extra powder drop setups for different loads. I feel that is money well spent.

 

Well it would be nice if you mentioned what ones feed better than others... :icon_mrgreen:

I've got tons of info for you when I get to my pc sometime today. Also if you are around my area I can come help you set it up. I've loaded about 10k on mine since I got it last year. As someone said there is def a break in period while everything smoothens out.

Watch the whole setup video. Be meticulous when cleaning off the anti rust stuff they put on it before shipping.

 

A clean press is a happy press.

I have had issues with Wolf LPP primers in my press too. I generally use CCI exclusively, but picked up some Wolf to experiment since they were HALF the price of the CCI! THe primer wouldn';t drop clean out of the tube and the shuttle kept hanging up on it during feeding. I did get them to work better but adding a small chamfer to the shuttle hole opening but i think i'll just avoid them altogether. Searching the net i found other folks having issues with that brand and no others so they are probably of poor tolerance and consistency.

That's the press I'm pretty sure I'm going to get as well. I'd really appreciate it if you post any thoughts, hindsights, tips as you start with it.

Thanks for the input guys. I'll post some photos of the unpack and setup if there's any interest in seeing them - though it looks like most of that is covered in Hornady's vids.

 

I didn't opt for the powder through expanders, so expanding will be done on station 3, leaving 4 and 5 for seating and taper crimping (9mm). Seems like most of you guys use powder checks or powder cop dies? Is it absolutely necessary? I plan to rig a small light to shine in on the charged case, and will have a powder template case (i.e. a case with a line drawn on it at the correct powder level) to visually ensure the right charge.

You generally bell the case in station 2 right before throwing the powder charge, not after.

 

Using a powder check die is never a bad idea. It could eventually catch that one squib/double/undercharge that you happen to miss. Another advantage is that you can pick up your pace a little bit too if you are not leaning over to carefully inspect each powder level every single time.

@Jon - Yes, you're right, my bad. I was looking at the stock photo with the powder drop at station two, but that's set up for rifle and no need to resize/expand in two steps.

Got the press today and loaded a few dozen rounds. It left me with a couple questions:

 

Is the press supposed to include a primer flip tray? Mine did not.

 

After you load the primers into the main feed tube, I'm guessing there's no easy way to get them back out again? It's fine to just leave them in there?

 

I got some inconsistent OALs (too long) when seating progressively, so I had to run the rounds single stage through just the seating station, after which the OAL was correct. What am I doing wrong there? Is it just a technique issue?

Funny, I just started using my new lnl tonight also for the first time. I have everything humming along except for the hornady combo seater/crimper die. I'm also getting inconsistent OAL's and apparently I'm not crimping enough as the bullets push into the shell when loading into one of my pistol's chamber.

Funny, I just started using my new lnl tonight also for the first time. I have everything humming along except for the hornady combo seater/crimper die. I'm also getting inconsistent OAL's and apparently I'm not crimping enough as the bullets push into the shell when loading into one of my pistol's chamber.

 

Crimp doesn't hold the bullet in the case. It just removes the belling you put on in the expanding station. Don't load any more rounds until someone can help you as thats dangerous. I can help tomo but right now I gotta sleep. I get up at 3am.

Yup I know its dangerous. Maybe I'm expanding too much. I can't mess with it again till this weekend anyway.

Is the press supposed to include a primer flip tray? Mine did not.

 

 

Flip tray is usually an extra item to purchase.

Yup I know its dangerous. Maybe I'm expanding too much. I can't mess with it again till this weekend anyway.

 

I see Brian is going to meet up with you, but having a case gauge for each caliber you are going to load is a good thing to have.

Nickjc pretty much answered it. You only want it to expand a tiny bit. You might have it screwed too far into the press. You just want the bullet to be able to sit there without toppling over when you raise the ram. The tension of the resized case makes the bullet stay put. Secondly, make sure you are resizing all the way. If you don't resize enough the case will be too large and the bullet will slip right in. The amount that you expand is only like the top 1/16th of an inch of the case. After you load a round take it out and measure the OAL, then push it nose first into something like the edge of the bench. Then recheck it. If it's tight enough the measurement won't change. Then you crimp it. Try crimping one round with no other cases in the stations. When you raise the ram you shouldn't feel much resistance. If you do, you are crimping too heavily.

 

I am off all weekend so if you want some hands on help let me know. I see you are in Matawan. That's not too far from me.

Got the press today and loaded a few dozen rounds. It left me with a couple questions: Is the press supposed to include a primer flip tray? Mine did not. After you load the primers into the main feed tube, I'm guessing there's no easy way to get them back out again? It's fine to just leave them in there? I got some inconsistent OALs (too long) when seating progressively, so I had to run the rounds single stage through just the seating station, after which the OAL was correct. What am I doing wrong there? Is it just a technique issue?

 

The press doesn't include a tray which is stupid. I recommend the tray from Dillon. It's actually metal and works better. The Hornady flipper tray sucks balls. The RCBS one is ok too, The Dillon is the best though.

 

You can leave them in the tube. Primers aren't in airtight packages anyway so it's not like they are exposed to anything more if they are in the tube. I always leave a few in the tube because if you let the primer tube get down to the last 2 it gets jammed up. If you aren't going to use the press for a year then yeah maybe take em out.

 

Speaking of primer tubes, I would pick up at least 2 more of the primer pickup tubes. So you have 3 small and 3 large. Personally I like to have 5. Unless I have my girl as my assistant I load up all the primer tubes first then start loading. It sucks to keep stopping to refill the primer pickup tubes. They are about 8 bucks each.

 

I would also recommend getting the Hornady One Shot spray lube. It dries and you don't have to clean it off the ammo later on. It makes loading a little easier and might bring a little more consistency to your OAL. I take approx 200 rounds, put em in a tupperware box and do a few quick sprays while rattling them around. Let them sit for a few minutes and they are ready to load.

 

I assume you have a quality scale and micrometer already. Make sure you have some safety glasses because primers have been known to go off in the tubes.

 

What is the +/- on the OAL measurments?

@ Babaganoosh

 

I read a bit more on the OAL issue and it looks like it's common on progressives to have different seating depths when running a full tray vs. seating station only, due to press flex and/or shellplate flex. So I calibrated my seater die while running a full plate and am getting much better results, so long as I'm always going progressive; my target for my particular 9mm load is 1.069, and about 80% are +/- .002 of that number, with extreme outliers at 1.073 and 1.062 (not sure how that one got there, as it was in the middle of the batch I was loading). The last three rounds were slightly short at about 1.065-1.066ish, again probably due to the press flex issue.

 

I wanted to pick up extra primer feed tubes but it seems like they're all outta stock at Midway... and I really wanna place an order for extra case retaining springs if/when this one shears on me....

 

Thanks for the warning about the Hornady flip tray; I'll get the RCBS one instead. I'm good on the scale/micrometer, and will probably get some One Shot Case Lube and more degreaser/dry lube the next time I have an order by Ground shipping.

 

Any point in getting the powder measure drain insert? Seems like it'd be more convenient than emptying from the top.

 

And, uh, grease guns? I don't know much about them. Are most grease gun nozzle thingers compatible with the fittings for this press, or do I have to find something special?

@ Babaganoosh

 

I read a bit more on the OAL issue and it looks like it's common on progressives to have different seating depths when running a full tray vs. seating station only, due to press flex and/or shellplate flex. So I calibrated my seater die while running a full plate and am getting much better results, so long as I'm always going progressive; my target for my particular 9mm load is 1.069, and about 80% are +/- .002 of that number, with extreme outliers at 1.073 and 1.062 (not sure how that one got there, as it was in the middle of the batch I was loading). The last three rounds were slightly short at about 1.065-1.066ish, again probably due to the press flex issue.

 

I wanted to pick up extra primer feed tubes but it seems like they're all outta stock at Midway... and I really wanna place an order for extra case retaining springs if/when this one shears on me....

 

Thanks for the warning about the Hornady flip tray; I'll get the RCBS one instead. I'm good on the scale/micrometer, and will probably get some One Shot Case Lube and more degreaser/dry lube the next time I have an order by Ground shipping.

 

Any point in getting the powder measure drain insert? Seems like it'd be more convenient than emptying from the top.

 

And, uh, grease guns? I don't know much about them. Are most grease gun nozzle thingers compatible with the fittings for this press, or do I have to find something special?

 

Those numbers are fine for your OAL. Looks like you are dialed in there.

 

I say nay on the drain insert. If the LNL didn't have the quick change bushings and you had to unscrew the powder measure then yeah it would be a good idea, put you don't have to worry about that, you just twist, pop it out, dump it. Don't lost the baffle though. Did you put the baffle in the powder measure? They added it recently so there is no instructions.

 

If you want to buy something like that buy a different metering insert. That way when you switch to a different caliber you just pop out the one you have in, and pop in the extra. Once you set the amount of powder you want to go thru it it stays that way for the most part. Let's say you load 9mm and use 4.2 grains, and you load 45 and use 5.0 grains. Keep the one insert with your 9mm dies and the other with your 45 dies. Then you don't have to go back and forth on the powder settings.

 

That sucks about the primer pickup tubes, might want to try a few other places. As for the springs, they are weird. I have had one last 7000+ rounds and have had one last a few hundred. A call to Hornady will get you a new one but it will ruin your loading session unless you have a spare. I always keep an extra on hand. Same with the primer return spring.

 

The one shot lube really makes a difference. I am trying to think what else you might need but am coming up blank. Oh ammo boxes. I really like the ones from Berrys. I order the clear so I can see if they are empty or full. It does make a difference when they are sitting on your bench or in the range bag. They are only about 2.50 each. http://www.berrysmfg.com/products-c30-100_Round.aspx While you are there or another site might want to order a case guage to check your ammo. If you don't want to you can always use your barrel.

 

No worries, you are new to reloading, there is so much more stuff that you can/will spend your money on. You don't have to buy some of the stuff but it sure makes reloading a lot more enjoyable.

 

Edit, oh yeah grease guns. You can get a cheap already filled one at most big box stores. They are made of plastic but will work and are disposable. You won't need it all that much.

 

Oh yeah, get some canned air to blow off the nooks and crannies in your press, under the shellplate and the primer feed slider. Especially the primer feed slider. It needs to be very clean. I actually polished the contact surfaces of mine. I read about it somewhere. Seems to make a difference in picking up a primer.

Another +meh on the powder drain. Had i not wasted a few bucks on that POS, i'd have 1 more hopper full of powder to load with and not all over my floor.

 

I actually highly recommend the micrometer powder measure insert. You record the setting for every load and its super easy to go back and forth between settings. Its even better when you are doing load development and want to load a few at 4.0, a few at 4.2, a few at 4.4, etc, then easily go back to your regular setting. With the rough stock inserts, you have no referencing and so if you deviate for any reason, the lack of indexing means you're hunting for that old setting again. Plus, without any indexing, you can't tell if the regular insert has ever lost calibration unless you make some kind of mark. Sure you can buy several regular inserts but past 2 or 3, you're losing money vs the micrometer.

On my Dillon I took a marker and colored 1 flat on the adjustment hex screw. that way I can count flats (same way you adjust adjustable pushrods on a motor) and figure out how many flats per .1 grain, so making adjustments is easy. Not perfect but real close and I use a different tool head on my Dillon 650 for each caliber anyway. Maybe if I had a system like I understand how the Hornady L-n-L works I might get one, but for the Dillon, it's a waste of money to me at least.

On my Dillon I took a marker and colored 1 flat on the adjustment hex screw. that way I can count flats (same way you adjust adjustable pushrods on a motor) and figure out how many flats per .1 grain, so making adjustments is easy. Not perfect but real close and I use a different tool head on my Dillon 650 for each caliber anyway. Maybe if I had a system like I understand how the Hornady L-n-L works I might get one, but for the Dillon, it's a waste of money to me at least.

 

Dillon is a slider bar right?

Yes it is Brian.

Another +meh on the powder drain. Had i not wasted a few bucks on that POS, i'd have 1 more hopper full of powder to load with and not all over my floor.

 

I actually highly recommend the micrometer powder measure insert. You record the setting for every load and its super easy to go back and forth between settings. Its even better when you are doing load development and want to load a few at 4.0, a few at 4.2, a few at 4.4, etc, then easily go back to your regular setting. With the rough stock inserts, you have no referencing and so if you deviate for any reason, the lack of indexing means you're hunting for that old setting again. Plus, without any indexing, you can't tell if the regular insert has ever lost calibration unless you make some kind of mark. Sure you can buy several regular inserts but past 2 or 3, you're losing money vs the micrometer.

 

I've thought about getting that but I heard the lines are a pain in the arse to read. Any truth to that?

Noosh,

 

No, not really. I mean, i can see the graduations just fine. It is a precision dial so just like a target turret on a scope, the graduations are fine so you can dial in precisely what you need. Sometimes adding .1 more grain is just a matter of a few ticks so its good to have that degree of precision. Frankly, if the scale were too coarse, it would be worthless as a precision measure. I have seem people mention that the scale "doesn't match the powder charge weight" and thats just ridiculous nit picking. It's just inherently not possible to match the measure scale to the charge weight since not only are there so many powders with different densities out there, but also the powder measure throws by volume, yet we measure by weight.

 

Frank,

 

I believe there is a micrometer setup for the Dillon measure. It might even be made by teh same folks that make the locking toolhead (i recall we conversed about that in another thread).