After going back and forth between building or buying my first AR, I decided to build once I learned that Lou's Gun Shop in Raritan had Spike's stripped lowers in stock. I went there last Saturday (2/11) and purchased the lower, expecting it would be a slow build (buying parts when I could afford it). After seeing the stripped lower sitting there with nothing attached to it for a week, I went back to Lou's on Friday evening and picked up a Spike's lower parts kit without the trigger group, a Spike's battle trigger, a Magpul enhanced trigger guard and one of PK90's 15 round magazines.

Today I decided to put it all together. I was most nervous about installing the trigger guard and the front pivot pin. I wound up using the plier method for installing the roll ping on the trigger guard and used a box cutter to keep the detent and spring depressed while installing the front pivot pin. I still have to get a buffer tube and stock to complete the lower.

Nice, wha are your plans for the upper ?

I'm thinking about a BCM upper group with a Stag Arms BCG. I haven't fully made up my mind. For the stock, I plan on getting an Ace skeleton stock.

 

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That looks very nice. How much experience did you have prior to this? I am tempted to build but I have zero experience. I am leaning towards buying something ready to fire first and then learn how to strip/rebuild it before I consider building my own. There is nothing like building your own to exactly the way you want it though.

I had zero experience putting an AR together. I was close to buying an M&P 15 Sport when I decided to buy the stripped lower.

 

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looks good thus far, how long did it take you to assemble the lower?

It didn't take me that long, maybe 30 minutes. It might've taken less time if I had a vise block.

 

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Good looking so far. I have a spikes lower and went with a stag upper. I actually just bought the same mags today and they seem to work better for my rifle. Seems like I had a few problems with the P-mags.

Looking good. Building my first one also. If you don't mind me asking how much did the stripped lower cost? Bullet Hole by me has the DPMS stripped for 120. They wouldn't let me buy it today as NICS is closed.

The plain Spike's lower was $125, the color-filled lower was $135. After NICS and taxes, it cost $160.50

Thanks. Did they have the Lower parts kit in stock?

Looks good. JUst completed my 1st lower build last month as well. The Pivot Pin Installation assist tool works WONDERS!

Thanks. Did they have the Lower parts kit in stock?

The had the LPK in stock without the trigger group for $45. I bought the battle trigger for $60. Had they had the LPK in stock with the trigger group, it would've been $80.

Looks good. JUst completed my 1st lower build last month as well. The Pivot Pin Installation assist tool works WONDERS!

I was worried about losing the pivot pin detent and spring but held them in place with a box cutter while I slid the pivot pin into place.

The had the LPK in stock without the trigger group for $45. I bought the battle trigger for $60. Had they had the LPK in stock with the trigger group, it would've been $80.

 

I was worried about losing the pivot pin detent and spring but held them in place with a box cutter while I slid the pivot pin into place.

 

Actually they have the Spikes LPK with the trigger group for $74. That's what I bought from them along with the stripped lower.

Actually they have the Spikes LPK with the trigger group for $74. That's what I bought from them along with the stripped lower.

They didn't have it in stock at the time and said it was $80 to give me an idea of how much more the LPK w/o trigger group plus the battle trigger would cost me.

NJdiver, where were you there? Bullet hold does not have the LPK in stock so I was thinking of going to get it there if they have it. If not ill just order one from DPMS. Thanks

It didn't take me that long, maybe 30 minutes. It might've taken less time if I had a vise block.

 

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Wow, 30 minutes on your first time? That's fast... It took me about an hour or hour and a half... but that's only because I am super anal about precision and go slow. I'm not an engineer, but most of engineer buddies tell me that I should have been one.... LOL. I study every little detail.

They didn't have it in stock at the time and said it was $80 to give me an idea of how much more the LPK w/o trigger group plus the battle trigger would cost me.

 

I was there last Thursday afternoon... I think I might have gotten his last full LPK though. Chris said something about having to put another "Spikes order" in, to replenish stock.

NJdiver, where were you there? Bullet hold does not have the LPK in stock so I was thinking of going to get it there if they have it. If not ill just order one from DPMS. Thanks

 

See my reply above, to dgstinner.

Thanks for the info

That looks very nice. How much experience did you have prior to this? I am tempted to build but I have zero experience. I am leaning towards buying something ready to fire first and then learn how to strip/rebuild it before I consider building my own. There is nothing like building your own to exactly the way you want it though.

 

I was kind of concerned at first about the complexity of building an AR, too... but I am really glad that I took the plunge to build my own. It's a great experience and now I understand how each internal component works and can do my own repairs and upgrades if ever needed. As long as a person has some technical ability and is good with tools, tinkering and following directions... then anyone can build their own AR.

Wow, 30 minutes on your first time? That's fast... It took me about an hour or hour and a half... but that's only because I am super anal about precision and go slow. I'm not an engineer, but most of engineer buddies tell me that I should have been one.... LOL. I study every little detail.

I watched multiple videos on YouTube numerous times so I was aware of what I should do and shouldn't do. The roll pin that came with my Magpul enhanced trigger guard didn't want to go into the hole, even with oil, so I wound up using the pin that came in the parts kit.

I watched multiple videos on YouTube numerous times so I was aware of what I should do and shouldn't do. The roll pin that came with my Magpul enhanced trigger guard didn't want to go into the hole, even with oil, so I wound up using the pin that came in the parts kit.

 

you have to use an alen key and screw it in. I actually had the same issue and after a google search i found out you cannot just tap it in... Ended up having to borrow that size alen wrench..

I watched multiple videos on YouTube numerous times so I was aware of what I should do and shouldn't do. The roll pin that came with my Magpul enhanced trigger guard didn't want to go into the hole, even with oil, so I wound up using the pin that came in the parts kit.

 

I might end up eventually either trying to do some kind of trigger job on the spikes trigger group that came with LPK (it breaks nice and clean, but trigger pull is a little heavy at approx. 7 lbs).... or invest in a better trigger. For now just want to focus on getting the rifle done and ready to use and will play with upgrades later on.

I might end up eventually either trying to do some kind of trigger job on the spikes trigger group that came with LPK (it breaks nice and clean, but trigger pull is a little heavy at approx. 7 lbs).... or invest in a better trigger. For now just want to focus on getting the rifle done and ready to use and will play with upgrades later on.

 

Good luck and the lower looks great.

Good luck and the lower looks great.

 

Thanks... but the lower in the pic was dgstinner's. Mine looks exactly the same but without the coloring in the spider logo or the saftey pictograms. I prefer it to be all black. Once I have the whole rifle completed I will post up some pics.

you have to use an alen key and screw it in. I actually had the same issue and after a google search i found out you cannot just tap it in... Ended up having to borrow that size alen wrench..

The front "pin" was meant for an allen wrench. The rear pin though was clearly not. It was a rolled piece of metal but the two sides didn't touch.

I might end up eventually either trying to do some kind of trigger job on the spikes trigger group that came with LPK (it breaks nice and clean, but trigger pull is a little heavy at approx. 7 lbs).... or invest in a better trigger. For now just want to focus on getting the rifle done and ready to use and will play with upgrades later on.

Lou's let me feel the difference between a battle trigger and the regular trigger. I liked how smooth the battle trigger was and wound up getting it when I bought the LPK.

I might end up eventually either trying to do some kind of trigger job on the spikes trigger group that came with LPK (it breaks nice and clean, but trigger pull is a little heavy at approx. 7 lbs).... or invest in a better trigger. For now just want to focus on getting the rifle done and ready to use and will play with upgrades later on.

 

I can't say enough of how much a quality trigger can do for you. I have the Geissele SSA-E 2 stage which has around 2.3lb first stage and 1.2lb 2nd stage on my SPR type build. I also have a SD3G which is a single stage flat blade trigger with a little over 3lb pull. It acts like a nicely tuned 1911 trigger.

 

Once you go with one of these aftermarket triggers, you'll never want to do an AR build without them.

The front "pin" was meant for an allen wrench. The rear pin though was clearly not. It was a rolled piece of metal but the two sides didn't touch.

 

oh ok, i was mixing the 2 up...