I'm going to build a 6' x 12' gun room in my basement. By building it in the basement I have two impenetrable walls. Here is what I'm thinking for the other two walls:

 

1. 2x4 studs, 6" O.C.

2. Drill 1" bores in the studs every 12" and insert steel bars horizontally

3. Sheath both sides of the wall (interior/exterior) with 3/4" plywood with 1/2 drywall overlay

4. Sheath ceiling with 3/4 plywood, cement board & 1/2 drywall

5. Steel door with hidden swing pins and a BAL (big a** lock - TBD)

 

I'm not trying to build a safe, but a room that will take considerable effort and machinery to penetrate. I will keep my guns and ammo in this room and install a dedicated workbench for cleaning & gunsmith type stuff.

 

Any other suggestions?

Run water tv in there just incase you need a panic room.

Double the size, 6' x 12' isn't that big and if you ever want to get into reloading (if you don't already) that will give you a little more room to work.

I would say, maybe do commercial aluminum studs, quite a bit more security for not much increase in price.

Install the metal lath used for stucco, between th plywood and cement board.

its a **** to cut and sharp as hell if forced through.

For what your going to sink into all that wood etc, why not looking into just doing 8" block filled solid if you know how to do brick/block work.

 

I also agree making the room bigger.

If I understand what you have described correctly, I think that room could be penetrated in less than 10 minutes with two tools, an electric sawzall and a sledgehammer. If the steel bars are only running horizontally what's to stop me from cutting across the studs horizontally? I make one cut at 12" high then again at 48" high and pull a section of the wall out. Rebar can be bent with some force and will be worthless if not anchored at each end.

 

If each side of the wall is securely fashioned 3/4" plywood you could pour concreted between every other set of studs. That way you know the rebar isn't going anywhere without a lot of time and effort. If you are willing to drill into the concrete you can run rebar from floor to ceiling as well and anchor with 12" of poured concrete at bottom.

 

If you can eliminate wood from the equation you will be good to go.

Maybe you'd be better off with a wire mesh partition. They make some pretty good security walls that would be tough to break into.

 

You could always built a wooden cabinet to put all the guns in so that someone looking in wouldn't see it.

I'm pretty much doing the same thing in my basement. It'll be a while, as I need to move some things around but my "gun room" will be pretty secure.

 

I sure won't be posting *in the works* pics or asking for ideas. If no one knows, hopefully I'll never find out if it works.

 

Security is best started with not telling anyone what your doing!

From the lock perspective , I would choose a fail secure electric strike and lock set , with an exit bar on the inside. This would have more holding force than a regular BAL , you can use an armored keypad entry on the outside..the keypad can be away from the door ( just run 24/4 to where you want the keypad ) there is a max rated distance , but at least it does not have to be right next to the door. For egress , on the inside , put a exit bar ( you know , the push to exit bars ) ..a touch sense bar is nicest. This way , your door will always be locked , you just need to know the code ( no keys to lose ) to get in , and you will also be locked IN if you want to be , to get out you just hit the touch sense bar.

 

Total batcave. You'll need an electrician , but hey it will be worth it.

Like other have said, reconsider the size. I think your construction plan is sufficient(maybe overkill) to keep out the average junkie thief that is most likely to wind up in your home. If you are target by a pro who is aware of what they're going after, your room will likely be breached.

Your first priority, if not done already, should be the outer perimeter of your home. Reinforced exterior doors and easily accessible windows, and unless you live in an area where police response time sucks, a quality professionally installed and monitored alarm system is where I'd invest my money.

I agree with the Concrete filled cement block. Within that block add rebar running vertically and horizontally pinned to the exterior block walls.

I agree with the Concrete filled cement block. Within that block add rebar running vertically and horizontally pinned to the exterior block walls.

 

this... if your do this do it right...

I actually just finished building a gunroom in my basement. My room is 15'x17' with 2x6 walls in order to split the lolly columns. Instead of rebar i used expanded steel underneath the 3/4 plywood. I also have a steel door with 2 deadbolts and to cover my basement window i had a piece of 1/2'' steel cut with tabs welded to it that i secured to the block walls. The first picture is as i was sheathing the walls.

This picture is the inside. I used cabinet grade plywood. These walls are all stained now.

And this pic is THE WALL. I used slatwall, I like it better than pegboard. I ran out of hooks in this pic. There is more hanging now. I'm also trying to work on a sprinkler system.

I've always wanted a wall of weapons

Or you could spend a little more and get something like this:

http://www.rhinovault.com/

When I build my next house I want one of those.

Looks good, gimmemym1

They make purple sheet rock, they use it in jails and can be bought commercialy, what they do is put up a layer of chicken wire or some type of steel mesh, then put up the purple board, repeat one more time so its 2 sheets thick, on the exterior wall and once on the interior, with rebar woven inside and you should be alright. It's the same method they used at my jail and the contractor told me that with hand tools like a sledge hammer it will last about 30 minutes. Ad your rebar idea electric tool will even have a problem because the mesh will just catch it. For a door buy a security door, with a peep hole. They have frames that have a slant on the areas where entry tools would be used so they can't get the tools in. Use aluminum studs and don't forget to add some air vents so u can get oxygen. If Ur gunna install a gun safe put it where you wanted I would put it against a wall I built so its an added area they have to break through, oh and if its going to be a safe house run all your wires for your cameras first

http://nationalgypsum.com/products/Product.aspx?ProductID=2413

 

Just read what I wrote quick clarification, you want 2 sheets on the exterior walls and one on the interior

Wow, a lot of great ideas. I'm glad I asked.

 

First, regarding the size. I have a unfinished 2600 sq.ft basement, so there's no need to be stingy on the size. I'm going to increase the size of the room to 24x24. Originally I was going to place the gun room next to a food pantry that I'm also building, but now I'll just make it part of, or a room within, the pantry. By going to 24 x 24 I now have three walls that are impenetrable (unless they bring a track hoe) and I only have to build one 24' reinforced wall.

 

Regarding the strength. If someone comes to my house with the specific intent to break into this room, more then likely they will bring whatever is needed to gain access, regardless of how it is built. I'm trying to defend against the opportunist that isn't traveling with a chain saw, saws-all or sledge hammer. I could build the reinforced wall out of block, but I really don't like working with block, bar and cement. I've used aluminum studs in the past and I just can't see how they are stronger then 2x4's. I think I will build using 4x4 6" O.C. That, with the plywood, steel mesh and drywall; well that will slow down just about anyone. I'll also use the mesh/plywood/drywall sandwich on the ceiling.

 

gimmemym1, your room looks great. I especially like the use of slat board - that will be going in my room as well.

 

The door & lock will take a little more research. I like the idea of turning this room into a "safe room", being able to lock it from the inside and using a peep-hole to see who is outside. Having locking bars are a real good idea. I'd also like a lock that engages the ceiling, floor, and both jambs. I don't want an electric lock as this has to work without power. I'm embarrassed to admit this, but this is my "prepper paradise" (I'm not an over-the-top prepper, but I do feel as though I have a duty to protect my family). In that regard Adam, I agree that the less people know, the better.

 

Please keep the ideas flowing. The room can always get better.

fail secure electric locks work even if the power is cut . Most buildings and commercial applications require fail safe locks that do open when power is cut to it ( a function of the fire panel usually ) .

 

Fail secure locks have key over ride. That way you can still get in or out if the power fails or is cut. The touch sense bar on the inside would not work without power either. You would have to use key override. That is why they are a no no in commercial and school applications . You can't make it so that someone needs a key to get out of a room or building in case of emergency.

 

Basically fail secure locks need power to open , but fail safe looks need power to stay locked . Know what I mean?

 

Check out Rutherford Controls and IEI systems for product and spec ideas. An installer would have to buy and install for you ..but one door system should not break the bank. If you do go that way , PM me and I'll get you to a good NJ locksmith that won't overcharge.

Well being that you now are planning a bigger room, and also say you have 3 existing walls, I'd really think of building that last wall out of filled block with a very secure door.

Well being that you now are planning a bigger room, and also say you have 3 existing walls, I'd really think of building that last wall out of filled block with a very secure door.

 

+1 add rebar between blocks leave loose will tear up a brick saw

You may want to consider metal studs !!! 12 gauge 3 5/8" or 6" studs for the framing you will need to use 12 gau track in place of your top + bottom plates, at 6" on centers with lathe, plywood and high impact sheetrock your going to need a demo saw to get in that room, I would also put a welded door buck in

Double the size, 6' x 12' isn't that big and if you ever want to get into reloading (if you don't already) that will give you a little more room to work.

For what your going to sink into all that wood etc, why not looking into just doing 8" block filled solid if you know how to do brick/block work.

 

I also agree making the room bigger.

 

Harry, 12x24 is too big, isn't it? I have a 9x12 and it's plenty of room for 2 dillon's on a 3x8 work bench. A safe, desk,

filing cabinet, and wall mounted cabinets for loaded ammo.

 

Double the size, 6' x 12' isn't that big and if you ever want to get into reloading (if you don't already) that will give you a little more room to work.

Double the size, 6' x 12' isn't that big and if you ever want to get into reloading (if you don't already) that will give you a little more room to work.

Double the size, 6' x 12' isn't that big and if you ever want to get into reloading (if you don't already) that will give you a little more room to work.

Double the size, 6' x 12' isn't that big and if you ever want to get into reloading (if you don't already) that will give you a little more room to work.

Double the size, 6' x 12' isn't that big and if you ever want to get into reloading (if you don't already) that will give you a little more room to work.

Double the size, 6' x 12' isn't that big and if you ever want to get into reloading (if you don't already) that will give you a little more room to work.

Double the size, 6' x 12' isn't that big and if you ever want to get into reloading (if you don't already) that will give you a little more room to work.

My grandfather built a small room in the corner using standard framing and drywall. Had a gunsafe inside.

The most strength you will get without costing a lot of money is going to be concrete + rebar + block + more concrete.

 

I might have a couple ideas for you. I can even ask the mason I work for for advice, he's had a masonry company for over 20 years. PM me if you want.

make sure you put some conduit in there chief for some electrical outlets; and use the proper mud boxes