My new build is about 90-95% done.

 

Specs:

Spikes Lower with PSA lpk

ALG Combat Trigger

Magpul STR

MOE + grip

Magpul RVG

EAG 14.5 HS upper by BCM with midlength handguards and lightweight barrel

Spikes dynacomp

Gunfighter mod 4 charging handle

mbus rear sight

primary arms red dot

 

I know I have 2 mounts on the side and a long rail. I got the QD mount with the upper and I plan to use it, as soon as the MS4 gets released. Until then I'll still use my MS2. I want to change out the red dot with a smaller, lighter sight. And I plan to pin another stock in the #2 position for this build to get it a little shorter. I'll also throw some kind of compact weapon light on it, thinking tlr-1.

 

What do you think?

BTW compliance work was done by Rahway Heritage Guild.

Smaller and lighter red dot? Sounds like a t-1/h-1. Tough as nails, battery life, many different mounts available. Might want something a bit more than a tlr-1 though. I have a tlr-1s on my P30 and while I find it adequate for its intended purpose it might be a bit anemic for a rifle. Maybe something along the lines of a Surefire X300 if you want something just as compact. 500 lumens = LOLUAREBLIND.

Smaller and lighter red dot? Sounds like a t-1/h-1. Tough as nails, battery life, many different mounts available. Might want something a bit more than a tlr-1 though. I have a tlr-1s on my P30 and while I find it adequate for its intended purpose it might be a bit anemic for a rifle. Maybe something along the lines of a Surefire X300 if you want something just as compact. 500 lumens = LOLUAREBLIND.

 

Yeah im looking for a nice microdot. I was thinking the tlr-1 hp or tlr-1 hl. The surefire is nice but a bit out of my price range.

Yeah...SF lights are kinda really pricey. Higher end Streamlights might fit the bill, but there are some other cheaper streamlight alternatives if you are willing to do some DIY. Not sure what other options you have with the RDS other than t-1/h-1 if you like the reticle though.

Well depends what finances are like. If a primary arms one frees up in the meantime i'll probably pick one up but i'll most likely save up for an aimpoint. I was thinking about an eotech also. How heavy is a lesser expensive eotech compared to an aimpoint?

I run Surefire G2s on my ARs... they work fine.. have been reliable.. and Surefire has great customer service.. the lights are so durable that even after the muzzle blast knocked out the lens.. the light still lit up and functioned fine... and I actually ran it on that handguard...

 

Can you show how they pinned the STR stock? Did they drill/pin through the buffer tube by removing the battery compartments or did they fix the adjustment lever somehow? Pics? Depending how it was done, you can always re-pin the existing one while you're in PA.

Can you show how they pinned the STR stock? Did they drill/pin through the buffer tube by removing the battery compartments or did they fix the adjustment lever somehow? Pics? Depending how it was done, you can always re-pin the existing one while you're in PA.

 

They pinned the friction lock. I can put up some pics tomorrow. I think I'll keep this one for my 16" standard build. For this build I'm gonna just have them pin it in the first click spot.

Now that I have just picked up my new tube and str stock I have just noticed the guy who pinned the stock seen in the picture (not from firearms guild) completely disregarded where I asked him to pin it. This was my first collapsible stock so I had nothing to compare it to. I hope this can be repinned. I'm pretty pissed off now

So it WASN'T pinned by the friction lock? Pics please, just curious.

So it WASN'T pinned by the friction lock? Pics please, just curious.

 

Sorry I wasn't clear. It was definitely pinned on the friction lock but was done in the wrong position. Pics when I get home.

Were you happy with Rahway Firearms Guild? Did you have both NJ things done by them ..... stock and muzzle brake?

 

Mind saying how much they charged you? Did they have your parts/gun a long time?

 

Thanks

Jim

Thats the picture of the stock in the above photos. Its blind pinned right through the friction lock. I don't see any epoxy or anything else so I assume I can get it out.

 

Were you happy with Rahway Firearms Guild? Did you have both NJ things done by them ..... stock and muzzle brake?

 

Mind saying how much they charged you? Did they have your parts/gun a long time?

 

Thanks

Jim

 

I think I paid around $40 (don't quote me) for the muzzle device and the grinding of the bayo lug. I'm pretty happy about the work. There was a little nick on the barrel by the bayo lug where it looks like he just missed his intended target. I'm not worried about it cause none of the guns I have are safe queens. Took about a week to get the upper done, which is about a week quicker than he said it might take.

 

I just dropped off my new stock and tube, said that shouldn't take long cause it's just a quick pin.

 

ETA: the original stock was NOT done by Heritage

Thats the picture of the stock in the above photos. Its blind pinned right through the friction lock. I don't see any epoxy or anything else so I assume I can get it out.

 

 

 

I think I paid around $40 (don't quote me) for the muzzle device and the grinding of the bayo lug. I'm pretty happy about the work. There was a little nick on the barrel by the bayo lug where it looks like he just missed his intended target. I'm not worried about it cause none of the guns I have are safe queens. Took about a week to get the upper done, which is about a week quicker than he said it might take.

 

I just dropped off my new stock and tube, said that shouldn't take long cause it's just a quick pin.

 

ETA: the original stock was NOT done by Heritage

 

CHECKER, does the pin go all the way through?

If so tap it out and adjust it to where you want it and tap it back in. Make sure you use a quality punch. If you don't have one PM me and I'll bring mine to you.

 

 

CHECKER, does the pin go all the way through?

If so tap it out and adjust it to where you want it and tap it back in. Make sure you use a quality punch. If you don't have one PM me and I'll bring mine to you.

 

It doesn't. Its blind pinned On one side.

Hey GUYS,, Can't he pull it out and then use a drill press to go all the way through and put a new pin in????

I cant seem to get any pliers on the pin to work it out

If they are snug enough, blind roll pins can be drilled out with increasing sized bits until it is thin enough to be collapsed and pulled.

This might sound stupid but try finding a really small screw, turn it into the center and try pulling on the screw to get it out.

This might sound stupid but try finding a really small screw, turn it into the center and try pulling on the screw to get it out.

 

That's an idea. I have to look to see if I have a screw that small. I don't have a drill press and I don't know if I'm steady enough to drill it out without screwing it up

I have a drill press, I'll have to see if I have a small enough drill bit.

You can use a small easy out (screw extractor). It will collapse the roll pin and grip it, so you can pull it out.

If you have a hand drill and a tiny drill bit, I mean smaller than that roll pin, drill into it slowly and it will bite and then just pull it out if its not glued in there or use a needle nose to pull it out.

 

Btw you using this for the class?

I have seen this done with a Dremel and the thin diamond tipped bit or the mini bit tip. Dremel is your friend. So many other uses, glock trigger job, m1a trigger job, ar trigger job, cut roll pins to size, cut sheetrock, replaces drill for small work, they also have a press option. All together, you could be well set up for under 100 bucks.

If you have a hand drill and a tiny drill bit, I mean smaller than that roll pin, drill into it slowly and it will bite and then just pull it out if its not glued in there or use a needle nose to pull it out.

 

Btw you using this for the class?

 

That's a really tiny drill bit. I have another str at heritage getting pinned in #1 that I'm gonna use in this gun. It will be this rifle I use though. I just mounted a light and a vtac 2 point sling. Gotta go zero it for the class now.

What light did you choose/what class?

For now I put a primary arms ultimate weapon light on in the 2 battery mode to make it a little shorter. This will probably end up on my shotgun. I think gonna try the trl-1 HP to keep it short and light weight. I signed up for the mdts carbine class.

 

Got a good deal on a lightly used vortex sparc for this build. Much lighter than the prior RDS. Gives me a true 1/3 cowitness too.

I run Surefire G2s on my ARs... they work fine.. have been reliable.. and Surefire has great customer service.. the lights are so durable that even after the muzzle blast knocked out the lens.. the light still lit up and functioned fine... and I actually ran it on that handguard...

 

 

you always have the best looking rifles!