So now what? War needs to be adjusted? Are the loaded rounds trashed?

So I just checked out the midway link --  Says crimp from slight taper to full roll -- or something to that effect

 

So the problem...  .45 acp needs to have a taper crimp and it sure looks like you have a die made to make a roll crimp --

 

Now it may be possible to adjust it to only give you a taper crimp but your going to have to trim your brass so they are all the same length -- short pieces will taper crimp, longer pieces will roll crimp

 

Solution for your crimp issue --  Buy a taper crimp die!!!  Only use your seating die to seat the bullet and crimp in a separate operation -- Get yourself with an experienced reloader!!!

 

If you don't have enough space on you progressive to add a taper crimp die then buy a single stage press 

Sig, This Friday works for me. Might be fishing in Capalong Creek so will be right in your area. Hit me with a PM mid week and we can figure out time etc.

I also have a 45 taper crimp die that I'll bring along to show you how to get that set up. The crimp in your picture looked rolled, although you can get it that way with a heavy taper. 

Cowboy. Thank you. I should be home by 600 on friday

Cowboy. Thank you. I should be home by 600 on friday

njSigFan

Just noticed your sigline list and an XDM45-5.25 is the tightest chamber around

I very successfully use a Lee Bulge Buster (uses the guts of a Lee factory crimp die)

Both items: low cost HIGH VALUE

I also have a 45 taper crimp die that I'll bring along to show you how to get that set up. The crimp in your picture looked rolled, although you can get it that way with a heavy taper. 

 Cowboy6373 - thanks for the help today tweaking my die set up.  meeting member like this are what make this hobby great!  next time your in the area, beers on me.  oh, and sweet Harley.

You can adjust the crimp so that it doesnt crimp as heavily. It leaves you with the proper taper crimp. It doesn't work as well as a dedicated taper crimp die but it will pass muster.

 

Back it off until it doesnt crimp at all. Then slightly adjust it down until it takes the flare out of the case. You just want it flat against the bullet.

 

Now measure your bullets and then measure the thickness of the a case wall on your brass. Double the case wall measurement and add the bullet diameter number to that. That should be the measurement you get at the case mouth on a finished round. Measure a finished round. Does it match up? If yes good job. If not then you need to readust the crimp.

 

45 is a very forgiving caliber to reload. You don't need bulge busters or factory crimp dies. You don't need lock out dies but they are helpful. You just need to be able to look into each case to verify the powder charge is there.

 

If I was you and I wanted to make ammo while I waited for a seperate crimp die I would get rid of the universal decapper and adjust your seater/crimp die better.

I have had similar problems with lead bullets and Federal brass.  Federal brass is thicker than most brands which causes the case to bulge at the base of the bullet.  I do not have this problem with FMJ bullets.  The Lee Factory Crimp (LFC) die solved the problem.  Some will say the LFC die is the worst thing ever invented and will cause leading, inaccurate ammo and ED.  I have used it with good results.  If you use it, adjust it so it just irons out the bulge enough to pass the case guage.  I use the ammo for USPSA so 100% function is required but perfect accuracy is not.  However, the rounds I tested had good accuracy.  Hope this helps.