Hmmm, when I finish my current build, have to check that. Didn't think it interfered.... I'd like to think it didn't... Which would make it a prob for non-NJers.Will check when I can and post back...

 

The really nice feature about using a replacement sling plate instead of a bolt on doesn't apply on NJ. With the bolt on type sling mount you can not collapse the stock fully. With the plate, you still get the full range of stock adjustment options.

Sent from John's iPad 2 via Tapatalk HDTypos courtesy Apple...

Looking at that part a little more it looks well made and thought out. I also like the rear attachment point as it makes switching shoulders with a 2 point sling a lot easier.

 

I may have to get one to try out.

Dunno if ya cam see it on mine unless ya zoom in...

 

IWC set up on the middy HG. I don't think its too bad.

 

 

There's the tried glide and strong side QD attachment.

 

I don't think the sewn ends are necessary as mine hasn't moved at all with just the tried glides holding it in place.

I've experienced with quite a few different sling positions. I've concluded that using a QD end plate (by the castle nut) and another QD at the start of my rail (near the receiver) is what works best for me. Hangs nicely, and allows for easy shoulder to shoulder transitions.

As mentioned previously, avoid 3 point slings. That was my first sling many years ago, and they suck donkey balls!

Wanted to bump this for an email announcement I just got from Magpul.

 

They are now selling their MS1 sling. It is a quick adjust 2 point sling - similar to the VCAS or VTAC. They are then selling the attachment points as a modular system. You can by swivels, single point conversions, clips, extensions, etc.... To set it up how you want. This is great, I no longer have to buy a $40 sling that I don't like just to cut the "clips" off to thread them through my VCAS to attach it to the ASAP plate. I can just buy the clip for $9. This makes my heart soar like an eagle...

 

http://store.magpul.com/product/MAG513/slings

Looks interesting. Want to see how the buckle works.

Wanted to bump this for an email announcement I just got from Magpul.

 

They are now selling their MS1 sling. It is a quick adjust 2 point sling - similar to the VCAS or VTAC. They are then selling the attachment points as a modular system. You can by swivels, single point conversions, clips, extensions, etc.... To set it up how you want. This is great, I no longer have to buy a $40 sling that I don't like just to cut the "clips" off to thread them through my VCAS to attach it to the ASAP plate. I can just buy the clip for $9. This makes my heart soar like an eagle...

 

http://store.magpul.com/product/MAG513/slings

 

Good news indeed!  I couldn't cut up a perfectly good sling for those clips.

The further forward you have the sling, the more you can throw off your zero. I have seen a zero move by as much a 4" at 100 yards by a shooter tightening a sling while shooting.

 

Ok, I ahve to ask. What type of forearm and what type of front sight? 

 

Because slinging up tight to a standard fixed front sight, I'll agree 100%. I've done it myself. With a railed tube with sights mounted on the rail, I'd believe it to, especially with some of the really swiss cheesed lighter forearms, although I haven't tried it. With a free float tube, irons mounted on the barrel, and sling mounted to the tube, I haven't seen it with my rifle depsite having the sling mounted forward.

 

I've been moving my guns over to a narrower placement for the ergonomic/operating ease features you mentioned, but I'm still curious if you have seen issues with a setup that isolates the fornt sight and barrel form the sling mount. 

Wanted to bump this for an email announcement I just got from Magpul.

 

They are now selling their MS1 sling. It is a quick adjust 2 point sling - similar to the VCAS or VTAC. They are then selling the attachment points as a modular system. You can by swivels, single point conversions, clips, extensions, etc.... To set it up how you want. This is great, I no longer have to buy a $40 sling that I don't like just to cut the "clips" off to thread them through my VCAS to attach it to the ASAP plate. I can just buy the clip for $9. This makes my heart soar like an eagle...

 

http://store.magpul.com/product/MAG513/slings

Which clips are you adding to the vcas?

I like the ASAP (http://store.magpul.com/product/MAG500/119) plate and the MSA-MOE Sling attachment point (http://store.magpul.com/product/MAG504/104) which requires the Magpul Paraclips (http://store.magpul.com/product/MAG541/slings) on my VCAS slings on the carbines that have the MOE hand guards.

 

 

Then when you put it all back together you should be torquing it correctly when replacing the castle nut, and then you need to re-stake it.

 

For mil-spec, yes.  Otherwise blue locktite (not red).

 

Oh, and:   

 

 

Why not restake it? The tool is $10 at Home Depot and it takes 1 minute to do

I am a fan of ITW clash hooks. I got mine for 12 bucks for the pair. They work fine with the ASAP. I could not bring my self to cut up a sling for the hooks I wanted for my VTAC 

I like the ASAP (http://store.magpul.com/product/MAG500/119) plate and the MSA-MOE Sling attachment point (http://store.magpul.com/product/MAG504/104) which requires the Magpul Paraclips (http://store.magpul.com/product/MAG541/slings) on my VCAS slings on the carbines that have the MOE hand guards.

Is there a particular reason you like the ASAP over a QD point at the base of the receiver?

Ok, I ahve to ask. What type of forearm and what type of front sight?

 

Because slinging up tight to a standard fixed front sight, I'll agree 100%. I've done it myself. With a railed tube with sights mounted on the rail, I'd believe it to, especially with some of the really swiss cheesed lighter forearms, although I haven't tried it. With a free float tube, irons mounted on the barrel, and sling mounted to the tube, I haven't seen it with my rifle depsite having the sling mounted forward.

 

I've been moving my guns over to a narrower placement for the ergonomic/operating ease features you mentioned, but I'm still curious if you have seen issues with a setup that isolates the fornt sight and barrel form the sling mount.

I have seen it a few times. Often as an example by an instructor (Paul Howe, Kyle Lamb, couple of guys at Blackwater) But I have seen a shooter have this issue had with a GGG Sling Thing - sling mount that attaches to a standard FSB. He was fine unless in prone, then he was off quite a bit. Turns out he was really wrenching don't on the sling when on the ground. It took a while to figure that one out. I have also seen it with a Yankee Hill FF tube with flip up sights, I have seen it on an ARMS rail with flip up sights, once on an MOE Handguard with standard FSBs and the sling attached to the first slot behind the FSB, and a few times with DBAL/PEQ type lasers.

 

The same thing happens if using a non FF rail and being aggressive with cover or resting your barrel on cover regardless of the rail.

 

In any event, in my experience the closer to the barrel nut you can get the front of your 2 point quick adjust sling, the better off the sling works for you. Larger adjustment range, closer to your body when slung, less tangle/hang up problems, less interference with your support hand grip and "switchology", rides higher so it doesn't lawn dart when kneeling, less chance of changing POI/POA issues, sling slides around your shoulder/armor easier, and easier manipulations all around.

 

Is there a particular reason you like the ASAP over a QD point at the base of the receiver?

I like that at the rear attachment point the sling slides from strong to support side on its own. When using a traditional "sling cup" attachment point like the TD PR-4, I usually keep the sling attached to the strong side of the gun at rear and the support side at the front. This builds in slack for switching shoulders making it faster and easier with a QA 2pt sling. It does however have a couple of "snivel" problems - sling rubs the back of my hand and my chin - that I can alleviate by using the cheaper and effective ASAP plate.

Edited December 21, 201312 yr by High Exposure

I have seen it a few times. Often as an example by an instructor (Paul Howe, Kyle Lamb, couple of guys at Blackwater) But I have seen a shooter have this issue had with a GGG Sling Thing - sling mount that attaches to a standard FSB. He was fine unless in prone, then he was off quite a bit. Turns out he was really wrenching don't on the sling when on the ground. It took a while to figure that one out. I have also seen it with a Yankee Hill FF tube with flip up sights, I have seen it on an ARMS rail with flip up sights, once on an MOE Handguard with standard FSBs and the sling attached to the first slot behind the FSB, and a few times with DBAL/PEQ type lasers.

 

The same thing happens if using a non FF rail and being aggressive with cover or resting your barrel on cover regardless of the rail.

 

In any event, in my experience the closer to the barrel nut you can get the front of your 2 point quick adjust sling, the better off the sling works for you. Larger adjustment range, closer to your body when slung, less tangle/hang up problems, less interference with your support hand grip and "switchology", rides higher so it doesn't lawn dart when kneeling, less chance of changing POI/POA issues, sling slides around your shoulder/armor easier, and easier manipulations all around.

 

I like that at the rear attachment point the sling slides from strong to support side on its own. When using a traditional "sling cup" attachment point like the TD PR-4, I usually keep the sling attached to the strong side of the gun at rear and the support side at the front. This builds in slack for switching shoulders making it faster and easier with a QA 2pt sling. It does however have a couple of "snivel" problems - sling rubs the back of my hand and my chin - that I can alleviate by using the cheaper and effective ASAP plate.

 

I have the pr-4 now and could not get the sling to work well on the support or strong side. It would ride up into my cheek area and mess with my weld.

 

I had to put it on the rear point which works pretty well as long as I remember to tilt the gun forward while switching shoulders or the stock will catch on the sling.