Well the lower I already have, ready to go. I did do some searching online last night and could not find an unthreaded 300bo barrell.

Well the lower I already have, ready to go. I did do some searching online last night and could not find an unthreaded 300bo barrell.

 

Doubt you will. Any particular reason for avoiding it other than the obvious?

 

Picked my barrel up from Sota Arms.  At the time they were supplied by Montana rifleman, who also builds custom bolt action rifles.  Montana this past spring sold the barrel making operations to Remington.  Don't know who is making Sota's barrels now.  For all I know nothing's changed.  Still Sota barrel was a great price at the time  (summer 2012). Today I believe its around $185.

Never pinned a muzzle break before, dont want to screw up the barrel

I don't have a 6.8 because I chose the grendel after lots of research. I also have a 300 blackout but haven't gotten more than a few rounds out.

 

I don't know if you are doing more than target shooting. The 6.5 ammo is actually cheaper and if you handload the components are actually easier to get except for the brass, you'll pay a couple bucks for that.

 

The really nice thing about 300 is subsonic suppressed firing of heavy projectiles. You'll need to leave it out of NJ if that's your goal. I find the grendel to be a bit snappier myself.

 

The nice part about 300 is you use the .223 bolt and mags. However if you like the other caliber better the bolt for it mates to the .223 carrier and the mags are not expensive or difficult to get.

 

If you belong to WP of shoot there I can let you fire some rounds out of both of mine. That may help you make a decision.

I am still leaning towards the beowulf, maybe it's the .50 coolness factor. AA has the upper for $690 and 335g fmj for$25 a box, which is the same price as AE 308 ammo, and they have it with an unthreaded barrel. One thing I worry about is the mags, I keep hearing that a 7 round beowulf mag can accept more than 15 rounds of .223 and that others have had problems because of this fact.

The over round count mag is something not worth rolling the dice with to me....but ymmv

I am still leaning towards the beowulf, maybe it's the .50 coolness factor. AA has the upper for $690 and 335g fmj for$25 a box, which is the same price as AE 308 ammo, and they have it with an unthreaded barrel. One thing I worry about is the mags, I keep hearing that a 7 round beowulf mag can accept more than 15 rounds of .223 and that others have had problems because of this fact.

I didn't order a 50 for precisely this reason. It's tough being in this state when you have consider all these odd things.

Ok, it looks like I will be putting together a 300 blackout, once I get the boses permission.  This will be my first upper build and I will need some advice.  Here is a shopping list I put together from midwayusa.com.  I already have a complete lower, a charging handle and a delta ring:

 

AR-Stoner Enhanced Bolt Carrier Assembly Mil-Spec AR-15 223 Remington Nickel Boron Plated                      $199.99
DPMS Gas Block Single Picatinny Rail AR-15, LR-308 Standard Barrel .750" Inside Diameter Aluminum Matte  $28.99
DPMS Handguard Cap AR-15 .750" Inside Diameter Round Black                                                                       $3.49
AR-Stoner Barrel AR-15 300 AAC Blackout (7.62x35mm) Medium Contour 1 in 8" Twist 16" Stainless Steel       $219.99
DPMS Forward Assist Assembly Round AR-15, LR-308 Matte                                                                              $11.99
DPMS Ejection Port Cover Assembly AR-15 Matte                                                                                                $11.99
AR-Stoner Upper Receiver Stripped AR-15 A3 Flat-Top Matte                                                                             $74.99
AR-Stoner Gas Tube Roll Pin AR-15 Stainless Package of 2                                                                               $1.99
Yankee Hill Machine Gas Tube Carbine AR-15, LR-308 Black Plated                                                                  $15.99
DPMS Barrel Nut AR-15 Matte                                                                                                                              $7.49
Magpul Handguard MOE AR-15 Carbine Length Polymer Flat Dark Earth                                                           $28.45
Troy Industries Medieval Muzzle Brake 7.62mm AR-10, DPMS LR-308 5/8"-24 Thread Matte                             $41.99

 

Any suggestions on the shopping list would be greatly appreciate, can I get some of these parts cheaper elsewhere, should I look into other manufaturers, am I missing anything?

 

Also, as far as pinning the muzzle break.  How deep should I drill into the barrel?  What size pin?  Does the pin have to be welded or can it be appoxied?

I'm too new to the platform to weigh in on the parts list, but more experienced builders are about to offer a lot of opinions...

 

The brake must be welded or silver soldered in place.   Epoxy or regular solder aren't acceptable means to pin the brake in NJ.   I don't recall what pin depth is recommended; I've seen instructions and videos on the 'net, which I'm sure you can find.  I do recall that using a short piece of coat hanger wire (which is pretty tough stuff) to make the pin is a common solution.

 

 

Also, as far as pinning the muzzle break.  How deep should I drill into the barrel?  What size pin?  Does the pin have to be welded or can it be appoxied?

You only need to put the pin in deep enough that it destroys the threads if you try and take it off. So technically the muzzle brake can come off, you just can't ever put anything else on because the threads are destroyed.

 

You must weld over the pin hole in the muzzle brake so the pin is not removable without severe damage to the muzzle brake.

 

If you decide you hate your muzzle brake you can always remove it on a lathe.  

 

I have installed my own muzzle brake and welded over the pin --  Tig weld would be the best option but you can also mig it 

 

You must weld over the pin hole in the muzzle brake so the pin is not removable without severe damage to the muzzle brake.

 

 

How about red loctite?

How about red loctite?

 

Definitely not.  Red loctite is good, but not that good.  I can always undo red loctited stuff with a good set of wrenches/sockets.  A little bit of heat makes it even easier.    

The 1100 degree solder at a minimum.

Best to pin and weld. 

Is anyone familiar with sotaarms?  They have a nice 300 blackout upper for $479.99.  I just need to find out if they pin the muzzle break.  This comes out $200 cheaper than building it myself. 

I have one as I posted before.  You can pin it yourself or have it done.  I did mine myself.  Sota does not pin the brake.

 

I've seen the build (I bought the barrel and brake), nothing fancy, works OK. YouTube has videos of Sota Arms uppers. 

 

I'll post a pic of mine if you would like...........

I have the same ar stoner barrel but not BCG you outlined--fantastic stuff.

I shot my Grendel and 300 today at WP range. In short build a 300 blackout.

looks like the 300 blackout is the way to go.  Once the boss gives me the go ahead

I will pull the trigger.