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Sighting in an AR

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Glad to help Barms!

 

You need ballistic software if you plan to predict/mark POA vs. POI. It's free online.

Nobody that posted anything said what kind of ammo they are using, let alone barrel length, or sight type/height. They also didn't say which aperture they are using at different ranges.

I guarantee I don't have anything that will match Lalo's POA/POI graphic, for example. Or the cop's bullet path graphic. And I'm using the most common ammo, in three different barrel lengths.

You don't need ballistic software for an AR shooting at AR distances with AR accuracy.

 

You need time behind your gun with your ammo at a range that will let you stretch it out a bit so you know how it will work.

 

ETA: I like how I am now "the cop" :rolleyes:

Edited by High Exposure

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Does anyone have any suggestions on getting a rifle to group at 100 with troy buis? Ive got under an inch at 25 yds but when i try to confirm at 100 I can barely hit the large 2 ft target paper let alone the bull. I have had no problems with the red dot so I dont think its the rifle.

Does anyone have any suggestions on getting a rifle to group at 100 with troy buis? Ive got under an inch at 25 yds but when i try to confirm at 100 I can barely hit the large 2 ft target paper let alone the bull. I have had no problems with the red dot so I dont think its the rifle.

 

What happens at 50? 75?

 

25 is very close so it would think at 100 you would be pretty off... I site in at 50... And anything inside 100 yards is close enough to stay on target....

What happens at 50? 75?

25 is very close so it would think at 100 you would be pretty off... I site in at 50... And anything inside 100 yards is close enough to stay on target....

its not the fact that its not directly on the bullseye at 100. Its that it will not group at all at 100 with the irons only. I sighted in my h-1 on saturday and could keep a fist size group with m855. This is the second set of buis ive had on the rifle with the same result. first had troy micros then got the full size to cowitness with the h-1and lt660 mount.

its not the fact that its not directly on the bullseye at 100. Its that it will not group at all at 100 with the irons only. I sighted in my h-1 on saturday and could keep a fist size group with m855. This is the second set of buis ive had on the rifle with the same result. first had troy micros then got the full size to cowitness with the h-1and lt660 mount.

unfortunately I have nothing to add to your comment because I don't know the answer but I thought back up sights didn't have the precision for that far where you would be pretty far off. Sorry, not trying to hijack just thought it might pertain to this

edit: this is more of a question then a statement.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

i kinda already hijacked the thread. but i assumed that back up irons would be able to keep me somewhat close and actually group instead of just going where it wants. i mean going from a 4 moa group with 4 moa ammo with the h-1, to barely being able to hit a large target paper and not knowing where the next shot is going, isnt my idea of accurate. again the only time it does this is with the buis.

http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=95226

 

A very good thread on zeroes and targets.  And irons are practice practice practice.

ive been shooting irons all my life. its all i ever shot up until 3 months ago when i put a scope on my henry .17hmr. this is my first rds as well. if i can hit a clay bird at 100 yds with my old ass single shot .22lr, i expect to be able to hit a clay bird at 100 with my brand new AR. im just at a loss for what could be going wrong. i know the sights are tight and not moving so i dont know what else the problem could be

yes im on paper at 50. there is no 75 yard target backer at EFGA.

 

 

how close to the edge.. what change are you seeing at 50...

 

you are dead on at 25..

how much does it change at 50?

 

center is 12 inches from the edge since it is a 2ft target?

there was barely any change out to 50. i was only shooting the 2 foot paper at 100. standard 8.5x11 printer at 25 and 50.

what do you mean sold? am i happy with the 25 yard zero? yes. am i happy with not being able to group with the irons at 100+ yards? not at all. i am not trying to get a 100 yard zero. im trying to group it at 100 and know how it reacts at that distance. i would go farther but EFGA only goes out to 100.

Why don't you try zeroing it at 50 first then see what your groups look like at 100? What twist was your barrel? The shots you made at 100, are they keyholing at all?

At 25 yards, your POI is high by around a half foot at 100 yards. at a 50 yard zero your less than 2" high and low at 100/25 respectively. obviously depends on your set up but the idea is to get tighter groups in a broader range. To be able to shoot  2" within zero from 25 feet to 100 feet would probably make those 100 yard shot much easier.

Its a 1:7 barrel. No keyhole. Like I said I had no problems getting the red dot to shoot a 4moa group with 4moa ammo.

 

and that makes sense but still doesnt solve my problem. I should still be able to get groups. It doesnt matter right now if they are 6" high or 2" low.

Its a 1:7 barrel. No keyhole. Like I said I had no problems getting the red dot to shoot a 4moa group with 4moa ammo.

 

and that makes sense but still doesnt solve my problem. I should still be able to get groups. It doesnt matter right now if they are 6" high or 2" low.

 

 

what is the red dot zeroed at?

In the event you do get curious about software and IF you have an iPhone or iPad...

 

Have a look at iSnipe and Ballistic AE... 2 pretty cool peices of software...iSnipe works for both platforms. Ballistic is seperate...

 

http://www.isnipe.ca/

 

http://ballistic.zdziarski.com/

what is the red dot zeroed at?

I zeroed it at 25 to get it on paper. Then moved to 100. It was about 4" high and 4" right. I centered it but left it high and checked it again at 25 and it was right on. So I left it like that.

I zeroed it at 25 to get it on paper. Then moved to 100. It was about 4" high and 4" right. I centered it but left it high and checked it again at 25 and it was right on. So I left it like that.

 

 

if your red dot is right on.. and you are trying to achieve the same 0 with your irons... zero the irons so the tip of the front post lines up with the dot... 

 

assuming of course your optic is setup to co witness... 

i tried that. ill try again on saturday. it was getting late and i was frustrated so i was probably rushing it. i know i wasnt rushing the shots just the adjustments.

dont touch the red dot.. just look through the tube.. line up the front and rear... and then adjust to get the front post on the dot.. if you do that.. and line up the front and rear consistently..  there is NO WAY its not going to do exactly what the dot does.. because the post will essentially be in the same spot as the red dot.. 

well i had no luck grouping it with the irons again. the h-1 worked great as it did before. i co witnessed it the best i could and still no dice.

well i had no luck grouping it with the irons again. the h-1 worked great as it did before. i co witnessed it the best i could and still no dice.

 

 

that does really make any sense... if the tip of the sight is where the red dot is through the rear site... then the bullet should hit if the red dot is on or not.. 

I know. Im at a loss here. If you want to meet me at the range and shoot it yourself is be happy to guest you in at efga. Maybe it's just me not being used to the dioptic rear?

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