Bought a Troy Medieval brake. Tried to drill it with HSS drill bit...no luck. Purchased a cobalt bit and it just laughed at it.

 

The package says that the brake is made from 4140 steel. Any ideas how I could drill this?

 

Also, do you think a gunsmith would accept it with the device slightly drilled if I paid them to install it?

 

Any places local to Edison that you guys know of that would do it provided I cannot drill it?

 

Thanks!!

I've heard about how difficult the Troy brakes are to drill through. Some gunsmiths I spoke to don't like working with them because they're difficult to drill through cleanly. I have a Medieval and a Claymore and both were done by Mastodon.

nick check your PM's

cobolt drill, slow turning, lots of pressure, lots of coolant.   A drill press is going to make this easier.  Probably very hard to do with a hand drill since it's hard to apply enough pressure to keep the bit cutting and a bit that isn't cutting will work harden the metal.  A hand drill won't run true and can contribute to a bit breaking.

Speaking of wobbly head drills. I have a dewalt that the chuck "wobbles". We all know what I mean when you're holding something over your head with one hand and trying to dive a self tapping screw with another and the wobble fuggjng makes the screw dance off the tip and hit the floor.

 

So i take it to a dewalt dealer to replace the chuck and 100 bucks later it didn't change a thing. WTF makes the wobble?

Speaking of wobbly head drills. I have a dewalt that the chuck "wobbles". We all know what I mean when you're holding something over your head with one hand and trying to dive a self tapping screw with another and the wobble fuggjng makes the screw dance off the tip and hit the floor.

 

So i take it to a dewalt dealer to replace the chuck and 100 bucks later it didn't change a thing. WTF makes the wobble?

 

I don't know.  I'd remove the chuck, and run the drill checking for any run-out on the shaft.   It sounds like it's either a bad bearing or the shaft's bent or was made off center.  I can't imagine bending the shaft on a hand drill.

I drilled a Troy brake with a Stanley bit and a drill press. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast applies here.

 

 

 

Make sure the drill is not on hammer.

First time i pinned a  troy brake i cussed for 20 min LOL

Then used a carbide drill bit and it went in like butter

 

If you close to morganville give me a ring and we can do it for you

JB Weld... No drilling necessary.... (OK, start the slaughter)....

Speaking of wobbly head drills. I have a dewalt that the chuck "wobbles". We all know what I mean when you're holding something over your head with one hand and trying to dive a self tapping screw with another and the wobble fuggjng makes the screw dance off the tip and hit the floor.

 

So i take it to a dewalt dealer to replace the chuck and 100 bucks later it didn't change a thing. WTF makes the wobble?

Maybe you have a faulty arm/hand/wrist. Do you still have the receipt for those?

Maybe you have a faulty arm/hand/wrist. Do you still have the receipt for those?

Nah. They are 12 years old. But still in great condition. Only used in weekend warrior jobs. It's never a problem on wood because the screw sinks in. But when I was trying to drive screws into metal studs with the correct self tapping drywall screws for metal studs man I had a ton of them dance off because it takes a couple of seconds of spinning before they bite

JB Weld... No drilling necessary.... (OK, start the slaughter)....

Maybe you ought to chat with some dealers and distributors. JB Weld requires over 1250 degrees to be removed which most likely will destroy the barrel by warping or ruin the threads... Or both.

It's what's being done outside of using silver solder. I've been seeing compliant guns come in direct from factory with no pins or exterior welds. I know this is an old argument but tell me why it wouldn't be? We even tried removing a brake with jb and almost broke the dang gun.

 

Isn't this the basis of what needs to be accomplished?

 

 

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JB Weld will not hold past 600 degree's according to the jb weld website so its NOT legal at all.

 

i think it has less to do with that we know might work and what the ATF considers permanent.

 

FYI alot of guns i have seen that look like they were not pined actual are. You need to look really close. Bushmaster is a good example

Maybe you ought to chat with some dealers and distributors. JB Weld requires over 1250 degrees to be removed which most likely will destroy the barrel by warping or ruin the threads... Or both.

It's what's being done outside of using silver solder. I've been seeing compliant guns come in direct from factory with no pins or exterior welds. I know this is an old argument but tell me why it wouldn't be? We even tried removing a brake with jb and almost broke the dang gun.

 

Isn't this the basis of what needs to be accomplished?

 

 

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When it comes to permanently attached muzzle devices, the rule to follow is the ATF's guideline where they specifically stipulate silver solder as being adequate

When it comes to permanently attached muzzle devices, the rule to follow is the ATF's guideline where they specifically stipulate silver solder as being adequate

Correct, Until the ATF accepts JBweld its a no go

"JB Weld requires over 1250 degrees to be removed"

 

Are you sure you are not confusing this with Silver Solder(Brazing)?

Maybe you ought to chat with some dealers and distributors. JB Weld requires over 1250 degrees to be removed which most likely will destroy the barrel by warping or ruin the threads... Or both.

It's what's being done outside of using silver solder. I've been seeing compliant guns come in direct from factory with no pins or exterior welds. I know this is an old argument but tell me why it wouldn't be? We even tried removing a brake with jb and almost broke the dang gun.

 

Isn't this the basis of what needs to be accomplished?

 

 

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As an explanation, silver solder paste on the threads and heating by magnetic induction could be the answer. Ask the BATFE if it is good to go for permanent attachment of a muzzle device for sub 16" barrel to bring it to 16". They will say yes or no. 

As an explanation, silver solder paste on the threads and heating by magnetic induction could be the answer. Ask the BATFE if it is good to go for permanent attachment of a muzzle device for sub 16" barrel to bring it to 16". They will say yes or no. 

 

silver solder is legal. Jb weld is not

"JB Weld requires over 1250 degrees to be removed"

 

Are you sure you are not confusing this with Silver Solder(Brazing)?

 

Probably, jb weld faq is here: 

 

http://www.jbweld.com/faqs/ They say 500 and do not recommend it's use on exhaust, much less a rifle barrel. 

 

I've researched a number of items, and the highest temp adhesive I found is used for permanent mating in the aircraft industry and peaks out in temp resistence in the high 700s for sustained heat exposure. 

 

Rockset claims 1200 degrees to remove, but ask them if it makes the cut for BATFE permanent and they say that it currently does not. 

Well straight heat it may hold to that temp but warm water it wont. Rockset softens when exposed to warm water. Some claim a little Dawn mixed in helps.

Probably, jb weld faq is here: 

 

 

 

 

I believe Rocksett too.  I've had my suppressors up that high as evidenced by the SCARmor finish burning off (full auto does amazing things to gun parts) and the Rocksett held.  It's water soluble though and if you dunk it in water overnight, it breaks down.

OK, I stand corrected. Then someone else is misinformed and that I will get corrected quick-fast-not-slow and get back to yaz. Becayse this whole thing is BS... Who gives a crap how it's held on as long as it cannot be removed with tools.

I'm going to really dig into this deeper...

Probably, jb weld faq is here: 

 

 

 

BTW, that link is broke... No rifle stuff...

Bhunted, I gotta tell ya, I regulerly pop off FH's secured with rockset with just a wrench. Only once did I have to put a little heat on one. The last one I did they put so much rockset on I spent more time cleaing up the hardened puddles of rockset than getting the brake off.

Probably, jb weld faq is here:

 

 

 

BTW, that link is broke... No rifle stuff...

It has temperature stuff to point out its 500F to break it down, not over 1100f.

Probably, jb weld faq is here:

 

 

 

BTW, that link is broke... No rifle stuff...

It has temperature stuff to point out its 500F to break it down, not over 1100f.

Bhunted, I gotta tell ya, I regulerly pop off FH's secured with rockset with just a wrench. Only once did I have to put a little heat on one. The last one I did they put so much rockset on I spent more time cleaing up the hardened puddles of rockset than getting the brake off.

I don't doubt it. Clarify though... Isn't the whole point is not to be able to unscrew it on the fly and add a suppressor? If the thought is that weld/pin means the barrel will be destroyed, then yes. If it means someone will pin it to stop the owner from removing it and adding something illegal themselves, thats a bad excuse. May not be as easy as cutting down a shotgun barrel, but cutting an AR barrel off, recrown, rethreaded and made suppressor friendly. All this does is protect the ffl and put the weight on the owner.

 

My opinion, it should be good enough as long as it cannot be changed -easily-..... But that's just me..

 

 

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I don't doubt it. Clarify though... Isn't the whole point is not to be able to unscrew it on the fly and add a suppressor? If the thought is that weld/pin means the barrel will be destroyed, then yes. If it means someone will pin it to stop the owner from removing it and adding something illegal themselves, thats a bad excuse. May not be as easy as cutting down a shotgun barrel, but cutting an AR barrel off, recrown, rethreaded and made suppressor friendly. All this does is protect the ffl and put the weight on the owner.

 

My opinion, it should be good enough as long as it cannot be changed -easily-..... But that's just me..

 

 

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Since when have gun laws made sense?