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Is a free float rail necessary?

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I just got my mp15 sport. I thinking that my first upgrade needs to be a longer rail so I can increase my sight raduis and have more room for a red dot and maginfier. On top of that I hate the way it looks with a cabrine length rail. It looks naked.

 

Legally how do I add a muzzle brake? And will that effect my new rail?

 

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk

 

 

Necessary? No. Desirable? Yes, but I think you misunderstand it.  The rail doesn't increase your sight radius, a long sight radius increases your sight radius, so yes you can mount sights at the end of the rail to do that, but it will leave you wish complications related to low profile gas block and NJ permanently attached muzzle devices and such. Your red dot and magnifier should NEVER be on your handguard, because hand guards are not that solid. Those things should ride on your upper receiver 

You can add a longer "Mid Length Rail" but it will require you to remove the original A2 sights and barrel.

 

once those are off you can reinstall the barrel with the new rail nut.

 

to add a muzzle brake you will need to have the barrel threaded or use a bolt-on brake.

 

You need to ask yourself is it worth adding 300 in parts to a 600 rifle

  • Author

If you want you can send us the barrel to be threaded for a brake and we can install and make compliant........

 

The rail length cannot and will not affect the brake....depending on the rail use a low profile gas block and then extend the rail to the max length of barrel.

 

Very easy to do....have done it before.... :)

I asked bc once the brake is attached how I will get the gas block off?

 

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  • Author

Necessary? No. Desirable? Yes, but I think you misunderstand it. The rail doesn't increase your sight radius, a long sight radius increases your sight radius, so yes you can mount sights at the end of the rail to do that, but it will leave you wish complications related to low profile gas block and NJ permanently attached muzzle devices and such. Your red dot and magnifier should NEVER be on your handguard, because hand guards are not that solid. Those things should ride on your upper receiver

correct on both accounts

 

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk

 

 

  • Author

You can add a longer "Mid Length Rail" but it will require you to remove the original A2 sights and barrel.

 

once those are off you can reinstall the barrel with the new rail nut.

 

to add a muzzle brake you will need to have the barrel threaded or use a bolt-on brake.

 

You need to ask yourself is it worth adding 300 in parts to a 600 rifle

I dont mind grinding off that sight. But arent you talking about a free float

 

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I asked bc once the brake is attached how I will get the gas block off?

 

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you dont.  you either put on a low profile gas block before, or you cut it off and put on a clamp on gas block.  if you decide to go with a rail that uses the standard barrel nut, you can always just shave the front sight block. or send it to someone that can do it for you.  Adco only charges like $40 for that service.  

Rifle was 900

 

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The MP sport is about 600 - 650 in todays market.

 

I dont mind grinding off that sight. But arent you talking about a free float

 

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Yes if you want a longer Hand guard you will need a free float

you dont.  you either put on a low profile gas block before, or you cut it off and put on a clamp on gas block.  if you decide to go with a rail that uses the standard barrel nut, you can always just shave the front sight block. or send it to someone that can do it for you.  Adco only charges like $40 for that service.  

 

THIS

 

But if you chose a rail that required a different block that would be done before you attach the muzzle device

the sight radius on that gun is fine....

there is plenty of room for a red dot...

adding a muzzle device is a silly expense IMO...

 

 

if you want a customized AR like it sounds like you do.. you should really build the gun from scratch... this is why I ALWAYS tell people just build the gun.. its not hard.... because now something as simple as changing the handguard and adding a brake is a huge annoyance... 

 

I would seriously just sell the gun take the hit.. and start over if you really want something you can work with.. 

I shaved mine down and put a 15" VTAC rail on it. Gun was brand new and I did it. Its easy. I also have a DD middy and some other ARs and this might be my fave.

Sure it's doable.... But he is talking about threading a barrel also...

 

Why start with something that is not conducive to the end result desired....

 

 

"I'm thinking a long free float rail and a brake"

The answer is not

"Get an ar with a fixed front site and an unthreaded barrel"

OP, you have options.

 

This thread talks about adding a 2 piece FF rail without removing your FSB

http://njgunforums.com/forum/index.php/topic/61461-2-piece-free-float-drop-in-rails/

http://njgunforums.com/forum/index.php/topic/60836-extended-quad-rail-help-anyone-make-a/

 

This thread talks about options for FF rails that use the standard barrel nut. In your case, since you have no muzzle device, you can easily slip the FSB out and replace it with a low profile gas block instead of shaving down the FSB. Likewise, you can stil acquire any other FF rail that use a proprietary barrel nut but you'll need the tools and knowhow to swap them out.

http://njgunforums.com/forum/index.php/topic/52111-free-float-rail-suggestions/

 

I think the lease expensive solution for you would be get a FF rail that uses the standard barrel nut and shave the FSB off yourself. Forget about threading the barrel otherwise you'll be sinking too much money into it.

Why not get a 2 peice FF rail that has a cut out for the FSB. Troy, Daniel Defense, Centurian Arms, MWI, all make outstanding models like this. It will install in minutes, and you don't have to mess with grinding, cutting, shaving, or taper pins.

 

I prefer a standard FSB to a folding front sight anyway. It is always up, meaning one less thing you need to do in the event of an optic failure. It is mounted directly to the barrel, so it is less likely to lose zero or get bumped on a rail. And with a lower 1/3 co-witness, you stop seeing it in your sight picture after a few rounds. Win, win, win.

Why not get a 2 peice FF rail that has a cut out for the FSB. Troy, Daniel Defense, Centurian Arms, MWI, all make outstanding models like this. It will install in minutes, and you don't have to mess with grinding, cutting, shaving, or taper pins.

 

I prefer a standard FSB to a folding front sight anyway. It is always up, meaning one less thing you need to do in the event of an optic failure. It is mounted directly to the barrel, so it is less likely to lose zero or get bumped on a rail. And with a lower 1/3 co-witness, you stop seeing it in your sight picture after a few rounds. Win, win, win.

 

 

its not JUST that.. he is considering a brake as well.. 

Why not get a 2 peice FF rail that has a cut out for the FSB. Troy, Daniel Defense, Centurian Arms, MWI, all make outstanding models like this. It will install in minutes, and you don't have to mess with grinding, cutting, shaving, or taper pins.

 

I prefer a standard FSB to a folding front sight anyway. It is always up, meaning one less thing you need to do in the event of an optic failure. It is mounted directly to the barrel, so it is less likely to lose zero or get bumped on a rail. And with a lower 1/3 co-witness, you stop seeing it in your sight picture after a few rounds. Win, win, win.

 

Just for some of the other folks reading this.

 

Keep in mind that the delta ring assy as well as the hand guard cap may need to be removed as well for some of these 2-piece FSB cutout rails.

Shave that A2 down if you want a super long rail and keep that crowned barrel. More trouble than its worth (in nj at least) to convert it.

  • Author

is this the MP Sport you have?

 

Posted Image

yes

 

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  • Author

 

 

Shave that A2 down if you want a super long rail and keep that crowned barrel. More trouble than its worth (in nj at least) to convert it.

crowned?

 

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crowned?

 

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In this case I used crowned to mean unthreaded vs threaded.

 

If you thread your barrel, You'll obviously have to pay for that, the comp, and the labor to affix said comp. Once the comp is pinned and you change your mind again, its rather annoying to change it. It can be undone my a good smith, at another premium of course.

I always thought a crowned barrel meant having a small bevel made on the inside of the barrel, like this.

 

Screenshot2011-11-30at84425AM.png

 

if the M&P Sport came without a muzzle device (unthreaded), chances are the barrel is already crowned or at least it should be IMO.

I always thought a crowned barrel meant having a small bevel made on the inside of the barrel, like this.

 

Posted Image

 

if the M&P Sport came without a muzzle device (unthreaded), chances are the barrel is already crowned or at least it should be IMO.

It is and I'm sure its crowned already.

 

I meant it to mean crowned only with no threads.

  • Author

Is there a free float rail kit I can buy? Rail gas block and etc

 

Sent from my PH44100 using Tapatalk

 

 

why not just look for a complete upper that has all the features you want, then sell your upper to help cover the cost?

  • Author

Good idea but I doubt my upper will sell for much.

 

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  • Author

the sight radius on that gun is fine....

there is plenty of room for a red dot...

adding a muzzle device is a silly expense IMO...

 

 

if you want a customized AR like it sounds like you do.. you should really build the gun from scratch... this is why I ALWAYS tell people just build the gun.. its not hard.... because now something as simple as changing the handguard and adding a brake is a huge annoyance...

 

I would seriously just sell the gun take the hit.. and start over if you really want something you can work with..

this was my 2nd gun.. im a newbie... define build from scrach

 

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk

 

 

this was my 2nd gun.. im a newbie... define build from scrach

 

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk

 

 

no worries.. my first AR was an M&P15...it was a good gun in that it ran OK.. got shots on target.. and in that sense did what it was supposed to.. but I never really loved it..  so it got sold

 

I eventually thought about getting another AR.. just to have.. and I thought about the things that I did not like about the M&P.. the trigger.. the lack of a muzzle device.. the carbine length gas system.. and I realized that it would be better for me to just buy a bare lower and build the gun from there... I now have a couple ARs.. and I can honestly say if you have things about the gun you would like to do.. specific things... it is easier to just piece one together yourself.. buying a bare stripped lower.. and just hand picking every part over time... the gun you end up with is a gun that is exactly how you want it to be.. thats what I mean what I say from scratch...  the nice thing is you really dont need a ton of specialized tools.. and the only part you need an FFL for is the lower.. all the other parts you can just order to your house.. 

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