Anyone try this stuff in place of silver solder? Specs say 2400 degrees.

 

 

http://m.autozone.com/autozone-mobile/en/accessories/CarGo-3-oz-ThermoSteel-High-Temp-metal-repair-jar/_/N-25y6?id=515553

Seems like we're speaking a lot. I would stick with the silver solder. During the federal assault weapons ban and for nfa compliance it was an accepted method of attaching a brake. Nj has never ruled on what's acceptable, so you'll have a better chance in court. Plus...you can unsolder the brake if you ever need to do a repair.

 

I've used that stuff before for other needs...its not great. You can also tig weld the brake to your sight block. I've done that before.

 

Message me if you have any questions. I can walk you through soldering the brake on.

It says it comes as a putty.

I wonder if you could use it in place of a timing washer and bring it from behind the back of the muzzle threads up over the back edge of the brake to "encapsulate" the assembly, then hit it with some high heat to cure it.

 

Sort of like 'metal heat shrink tubing'

 

AAC makes a product dedicated to exactly this problem:

 

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/746260/advanced-armament-co-aac-rocksett-high-temperature-thread-locking-compound-single-use-tube

Seems like we're speaking a lot. I would stick with the silver solder. During the federal assault weapons ban and for nfa compliance it was an accepted method of attaching a brake. Nj has never ruled on what's acceptable, so you'll have a better chance in court. Plus...you can unsolder the brake if you ever need to do a repair.I've used that stuff before for other needs...its not great. You can also tig weld the brake to your sight block. I've done that before.Message me if you have any questions. I can walk you through soldering the brake on.

Lol, yep. Im trying to finish up my zastava m77 project, last steps are a muzzle brake and rails. I will be ordering the dynocomp from primaryarms today and would really like to attach it myself. I have nothing against taking it to a gs but i like doing everything myself, but i have absolutely no experience with silver solder, solder yes, silver solder no. I thought i would be able to use this apoxy instead

AAC makes a product dedicated to exactly this problem:

 

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/746260/advanced-armament-co-aac-rocksett-high-temperature-thread-locking-compound-single-use-tube

This looks very promising

Says can be broken with extra torque. Stick to the NJ proven methods. You'll be better off. This is not an old topic and it's been beat to death. I know, I was one of one beaters!

 

 

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If anyone wants it tacked on with a MIG let me know, $25 or trade for brass, bullets, powder, primers, ammo...

pm me. I'll walk you through silver soldering. Its really easy

Silver soldering is simple, anybody can do it the first time.   One of the great things about silver solder is that it flows nicely, whets to the surfaces easily.

 

don't be afraid, go for it.

I would assume a propane torch will not work? What kind of torch would i need?

MAPP gas

Propane is iffy.   It might work if you're not in the wind and you're patient.  A trick I've used with propane is to put a small piece of fiberglass insulation on the opposite side of the thing I'm heating.  It prevents heat from escaping from the piece. 

 

Acetylene is much better and will have your piece hot in seconds instead of minutes.

Heat paste. When you order you silver solder for Brownells, order the heat paste too.

+1

MAPP gas

My friend "Ricky" said that if you are not shooting competitively a muzzle brake is not really necessary. He has a thread protector screwed on and held with red loctite. No one has even glanced at it and it is much less noisy.

FWIW

YMMV

Thanks guys for all your help. I found out last night that a friend has an oxy-acetylene torch and silver solder, he makes dental crowns for a living. I orderred thee dynacomp today, so hopefully i can put it on before my next range trip next weekend .

What does the heat do to the color of the brake? I can't imagine it come out unscathed

don't silver solder the brake like you would with air conditioning fittings or pressed parts. The process is a little different.

 

The brake will discolor a little, but once your toss some oil back on its hard to notice.

What does the heat do to the color of the brake? I can't imagine it come out unscathed

I'd be more concerned with what the heat would do to a barrel, especially a high dollar match grade barrel.  That much heat will have to change the metal one way or another.  Even if it doesn't screw up the barrel during installation, what about removing the device?  The amount of heat required to melt the solder would soften the barrel metal and in the small window you have to remove the device the barrel would become more like twisted wrought iron instead of a precision machined gun barrel.

I'd be more concerned with what the heat would do to a barrel, especially a high dollar match grade barrel. That much heat will have to change the metal one way or another. Even if it doesn't screw up the barrel during installation, what about removing the device? The amount of heat required to melt the solder would soften the barrel metal and in the small window you have to remove the device the barrel would become more like twisted wrought iron instead of a precision machined gun barrel.

Which is you very carefully use a cut off disc to cut the brake in half. You can touch up threads on the barrel if you have to, but you can't touch the structure of the steel once it hits critical temps. As far as silver soldering it on in the first place it shouldn't do much to damage the barrel since it's a quick application of heat.

 

 

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I know i'm probably beating the crap out of a dead horse but i just realized something. My barrel is 18", not 14.5", so adding the muzzle break is not to conform to nfa, only to NJ laws which stated permanently attached. So technically can't, can i pin the break, with the pin just below the surface and fill in with jb weld? Should be similar to pinning a stock i would think. If i am being stupid just let me know.

My friend "Ricky" said that if you are not shooting competitively a muzzle brake is not really necessary. He has a thread protector screwed on and held with red loctite. No one has even glanced at it and it is much less noisy.

FWIW

YMMV

The NRA Rules for High Power Rifle competitions (F-class and Across The Course) are very clear

No muzzle brakes allowed:

 

"3.16.1 Compensators and Muzzle Brakes - The use of compensators or muzzle brakes is prohibited. An

extension tube that has been installed on the muzzle of a rifle to extend the sight radius shall not be considered a

“muzzle brake.” The extension tube must have an interior diameter of .5 inches or greater and may have 1/4” x 1”

slots cut at 12 and 6 o’clock to remove cleaning patches. Threaded holes along the top of this tube for the

installation of sight bases will be allowed.

(a) Sound suppressors are not authorized for use in high power competition."

I know i'm probably beating the crap out of a dead horse but i just realized something. My barrel is 18", not 14.5", so adding the muzzle break is not to conform to nfa, only to NJ laws which stated permanently attached. So technically can't, can i pin the break, with the pin just below the surface and fill in with jb weld? Should be similar to pinning a stock i would think. If i am being stupid just let me know.

I personally would go with a simple thread protector on any 16" or longer threaded barrel.  I believe muzzle devices do have their purpose in life however for pure accuracy and not being an annoyance to your range mates a simple thread protector with a good target crown on your muzzle will give you good accuracy.  I spent a good chunk of change on my 18" match barrel so I'm reluctant to do anything that will change it's properties.  If heating a muzzle to glowing red hot made guns more reliable and accurate then people would be doing it all the time.

 

Anyway, just drill the TP, mount it, throw a small pin in there and weld that sucker shut.  I also recommend using a little LocTite RED.  This method is 100% compliant and least destructive.

The problem i see with using silver Solder is overheating. You can change the properties of your barrel if not done correctly.

 

the issue i see with that acc glue is how do you remove it if you want to change your brake?  heat to 2000 degree's?

 

I prefer the pin and weld method.  Simple and can be reversed by the person that installed it without damage to the barrel.

The problem i see with using silver Solder is overheating. You can change the properties of your barrel if not done correctly.

 

the issue i see with that acc glue is how do you remove it if you want to change your brake?  heat to 2000 degree's?

 

I prefer the pin and weld method.  Simple and can be reversed by the person that installed it without damage to the barrel.

Do you do this work?

We do the pin and weld. you can almost not tell it was pinned.

PM sent

I know I am probably going way over board on this but I have spent the last 2 days researching and only confusing myself even more.  This being an 18" barrel the law I am attempting to comply with is the "Threaded barrel that can accept a flash suppressor", would this still hold to the same stringent requirements as the NFA 16" barrel rule?

I know I am probably going way over board on this but I have spent the last 2 days researching and only confusing myself even more.  This being an 18" barrel the law I am attempting to comply with is the "Threaded barrel that can accept a flash suppressor", would this still hold to the same stringent requirements as the NFA 16" barrel rule?

 

Long answer.....

 

UNDER 16" the NJ compliant muzzle device must be long enough to bring the OAL of the barrel to 16" or greater.  Additionally the device MUST be welded to the barrel at least 2/3rd of the circumference.  Since your threaded barrel is 18"  This is irrelevant.

 

16" and OVER....  You may use the above described method to permanently attach a NJ compliant muzzle device, however, silver solder or blind pin and weld are also acceptable if the barrel is 16" or longer.  I recommend the pin and weld method.

 

 

Short answer.  Just pin and weld the fucker.