hello everyone -

 

As the title suggests, I need some help.  I bought a New GP100 on 7/18 and was finally able to shoot it today for the first time.  The session started out great with me hitting the target where I wanted to, but after the first 12 rounds I found the ejector getting a bit sticky.   I dabbed some oil on the ejected rod after wiping it down and we were good to go.  After 12 more rounds, 24 rounds total, the ejector rod became sticky again.  Since this is my first revolver I wasn't sure if this was normal so I just preceded to wipe it down once more and loaded up 6 more rounds.  After these 6 rounds the rod essentially became "stuck" and I was not able to eject the rounds without tapping the but of the grip on the bench.   I decided this cant be right and packed it away until I could you guys

 

So what gives?  I did wipe the gun down and lube it before firing it today.  The ammo was factory PMC 38 spc so nothing hot. I'm stumped and feeling buyers regret...

 

Help me out.

 

Thanks

 

Gabe

I've had 300+ rounds through my GP100, no problems at all. If I were you, I'd call Ruger.

Yeah, that's not normal. Never had a problem like that with my GP100 and I've run over 1000 rounds through it, including super hot stuff. Give Ruger a call.

It's a loose ejector rod, get the proper tool to tighten it without marring it, or use a pair of pliers with the rod wrapped in leather or something so you don't scratch it.

 

Reverse thread,turn left to tighten. Keep empty shells in the cylinder when tightening so you don't damage the extractor

 

 

Careful not to bend it, or you'll en cure more problems.

Alec - Thank you.  I'll give it a whirl.  I've also contact Ruger incase I need more help

I had a problem with a Ruger GP100 I bought at The Guild in Rahway and they were no help at all. In fact they were arrogant and un helpful. I called Ruger and they were very nice. The customer service person from Ruger sent me a UPS call ticket (so I didn't cost me anything to send back) They had it for about 2 weeks and it's been fine since. 

It's a new gun. I would suggest against messing with it if you are not experienced.

 

Send it back to Ruger and they'll make it right.

Alec - Thank you.  I'll give it a whirl.  I've also contact Ruger incase I need more help

 

 

No problem, if your ever in my area or at OBRPC  or CJRPC let me know and  i'll bring my ejector rod tool along.

 

It's a simple job, no need to send it back to ruger, hold the cylinder, and try spinning the rod, if it moves, it's loose. Tighten it up. Done. 

It's a loose ejector rod, get the proper tool to tighten it without marring it, or use a pair of pliers with the rod wrapped in leather or something so you don't scratch it.

 

Reverse thread,turn left to tighten. Keep empty shells in the cylinder when tightening so you don't damage the extractor

 

 

Careful not to bend it, or you'll en cure more problems.

 

 I don't know the diameter of the rod on a Ruger but I slip an empty 22lr case over the tip of the rod on a S&W to tighten the ejector rod.  But leather is a good idea.

Well I tried to tighten the ejector rod as mentioned above, but the rod is too tight.  i didnt want to risk marring the rod since the leather I used wasnt that thick.  I guess I have to wait for Ruger to give me a call....bummed

I don't know the diameter of the rod on a Ruger but I slip an empty 22lr case over the tip of the rod on a S&W to tighten the ejector rod. But leather is a good idea.

You want to tighten it closest to yoke / crane to avoid bending it, but clever idea.

Well I tried to tighten the ejector rod as mentioned above, but the rod is too tight. i didnt want to risk marring the rod since the leather I used wasnt that thick. I guess I have to wait for Ruger to give me a call....bummed

Weird, the symptoms you described are pretty much exactly what a loose rod would do, the only other thing with those symptoms I've experienced would be an end shake issue, the gap between the forcing cone and cylinder face is too tight and winds up touching and rubbing and locking up after X amount of rounds.

 

Let us know what Ruger says

Ruger wrote back saying they need to see the gun to properly diagnose and fix. When I called for the RMA # the rep was really cool and said it would about 2 weeks to turn around.

 

We'll see

How is it with the chambers empty?

 

Does it move freely or is it still stiff?

Sorry to hear about your problem. One good thing you have going for you is Ruger's reputation for taking care of customers and making things right. Let us know what they say the problem was and if you're happy with their fix / service.

 

GP100 was my first gun purchased little over a year ago. Have picked up 3 more since then. Still really enjoy shooting the GP100. Have prob put at least 1k rounds through without a single problem.

 

Hopefully you get your's back soon. Hope you enjoy your's as much as I have mine.

I got a GP 161 for my wife several years ago and had a problem with the cylinder binding up. After trying a few things we sent it back to Ruger. I think it was about a 10 day turnaround. When we got it back they had gone over it like a custom shop and had completely fixed the problem. We have had NO problem with their customer service.

How is it with the chambers empty?

 

Does it move freely or is it still stiff?

The rod is stiff at all times. At first I thought it was the rounds, but unless I push the rod in with the table surface it's stuck...

 

Ruger said they would email me a shipping label and arrange for pick up but I not able to ship it yet.

The rod is stiff at all times. At first I thought it was the rounds, but unless I push the rod in with the table surface it's stuck...

 

Ruger said they would email me a shipping label and arrange for pick up but I not able to ship it yet.

Bent ejector rod.

 

I'm still convinced it's a rod problem

Bent ejector rod.

I'm still convinced it's a rod problem

Alec - bring the revolver noob, shaft would have led to the bent rod? The revolver is/was brand new and has then 30 successful round down range?

 

I'm not questioning your experience or suggestion, jus trying to educate myself to avoid the issue again.

You're saying, with an empty gun. when you push the ejector rod as if you are releasing rounds, it's tight and you need to push it against something to push it fully correct?

 

you're basically trying to fit a curved piece of metal through a hole for a straight piece, resistance is a tell tale sign something is boogered up.

This does a more gooder job of explaining 

 

Thanks...

I'll take a look at the rod more closely when I get home.

check for "run out " like he explains in the video. 

A quick update on this...

 

Alec was right; it was a bent ejector rod. Ruger had the gun for all of 3 days to replace and ship back the gun. They were extremely cool and even sent me a personal email stating they were sorry for the issue. They include a $20 credit for their store as well. All in all I'm happy with the service.

 

Thanks for everyone's help!

 

Gabe

I had a similar problems with my S&W 617 revolver in .22lr. I had to turn the gun upside down and tap the rod against the bench, almost as if the shells had expanded. I had the worst problem, believe it or not, with .22 shorts, followed by .22lr and those Colibry cockroach powderless rounds.

 

The problem got better the second time out, and after about 900 rounds it magically resolved on its own. .22lr shells now practically fall out of the cylinder; I haven't shot any shorts for a while but no problem with the Colibri either, the few I've recently shot.

 

Could this be simply breaking the gun in aided by maybe two or three cleanings? Not too expensive in .22, roughly the price of two bricks. I would feel cheated somehow if I had to fire 900 rounds of .38 special or .357 mag before my gun worked properly.

 

Also, it's unlikely to be a bent ejector rod if it works for 1-2 cylinders and then not for the 3rd. No? Sounds almost like you're getting cylinder fouling, maybe due to a too-wide cylinder gap. You could test this with a chronograph: if the velocity is significantly below spec then crap that should be emerging from the muzzle or depositing in the barrel is blowing back. Even easier: bring your cleaning kit with you next time you shoot the gun. Give each chamber a quick brush from both sides after shooting each cylinder. If that solves the problem then maybe my idea about the cylinder gap is correct. I suppose then the gun would have to be sent back to Ruger.

I had a similar problems with my S&W 617 revolver in .22lr. I had to turn the gun upside down and tap the rod against the bench, almost as if the shells had expanded. I had the worst problem, believe it or not, with .22 shorts, followed by .22lr and those Colibry cockroach powderless rounds.

 

The problem got better the second time out, and after about 900 rounds it magically resolved on its own. .22lr shells now practically fall out of the cylinder; I haven't shot any shorts for a while but no problem with the Colibri either, the few I've recently shot.

 

Could this be simply breaking the gun in aided by maybe two or three cleanings? Not too expensive in .22, roughly the price of two bricks. I would feel cheated somehow if I had to fire 900 rounds of .38 special or .357 mag before my gun worked properly.

 

Also, it's unlikely to be a bent ejector rod if it works for 1-2 cylinders and then not for the 3rd. No? Sounds almost like you're getting cylinder fouling, maybe due to a too-wide cylinder gap. You could test this with a chronograph: if the velocity is significantly below spec then crap that should be emerging from the muzzle or depositing in the barrel is blowing back. Even easier: bring your cleaning kit with you next time you shoot the gun. Give each chamber a quick brush from both sides after shooting each cylinder. If that solves the problem then maybe my idea about the cylinder gap is correct. I suppose then the gun would have to be sent back to Ruger.

Tight chambers are a common problem on the 617, I honed and polished my chambers out a tad, but keeping a 22 revolver clean is important, most .22 is filthy.

 

As far as cylinders being tight on a few chambers and not the others is actually a tell tale sign of a bent rod. Think about it, if the rod is bent a bit it'll turn like an oval on the end instead of true, once it gets to the bent side it's going to tighten up on the crane lock or rub against the ejector rod shroud.

Tight chambers are a common problem on the 617, I honed and polished my chambers out a tad, but keeping a 22 revolver clean is important, most .22 is filthy.

 

As far as cylinders being tight on a few chambers and not the others is actually a tell tale sign of a bent rod. Think about it, if the rod is bent a bit it'll turn like an oval on the end instead of true, once it gets to the bent side it's going to tighten up on the crane lock or rub against the ejector rod shroud.

Why does it work fine ejecting the shells from rounds 1-6, 7-12, but not 13-18? A bent rod would malfunction every time.

Why does it work fine ejecting the shells from rounds 1-6, 7-12, but not 13-18? A bent rod would malfunction every time.

Depends where it's bent? Might only affect it if the cylinder is in certain positions.

Not always.  Bent rods even slightly or back lock ups can cause failures after a few firings.  Biggest reasons I have seen for bent rods are slamming the cylinder closed by flicking the wrist with a loaded cylinder or pressing on the cylinder to close instead of pushing on the crown.  Of the wheel gunners I know, the ones with the least problems always support the cylinder with their weak hand while loading and unloading.

Depends where it's bent? Might only affect it if the cylinder is in certain positions.

I don't see how a bent steel rod pushed through a straight steel channel could ever go through cleanly. Something is happening on the first 10-15 rounds.