I recently bought a used S&W Model 60 snubnose revolver chambered in .38 special. Rounds go in the cylinder fairly easily. But on one chamber (not sure if that's the correct term), the brass gets stuck after firing the round and needs to be removed with pliers or a dowel. Is this common? Any idea what could be causing this?

Have you tried different ammo?

Burr?

clean any carbon build up

clean any carbon build up

Best done with a .40 brush to clean up the cylinder bores

As said above. Clean the cylinder real good.

Carbon ring build up

Best done with a .40 brush to clean up the cylinder bores

 

^^^^^THIS^^^^^

 

I use a dry .40 brush, then wet it with Shooters Choice and scrub really good.  Then a coupla patches damp with Shooters Choice until they come out clean.  Then dry patch.  Then use an oily patch before storage and/or loading for practice live-fire.  Spent casings slide right out!

I've been, shooting all interations of the Model 60s since the late 60s. Cases should not stick more so to the degree you relate. Clean the cylinder well. Hoppes, let soak in for a few minutes, brush with bronze brush, wipe out with patch, repeat until patch comes out clean.

Is it a new gun? If so if cleaning doesn't do it I'd send it to smith marking the cylinder.

Thanks all for the input (and the gun is used). I'll start with cleaning out the cylinder as recommended.

^^^^^THIS^^^^^

I use a dry .40 brush, then wet it with Shooters Choice and scrub really good.  Then a coupla patches damp with Shooters Choice until they come out clean.  Then dry patch.  Then use an oily patch before storage and/or loading for practice live-fire.  Spent casings slide right out!

Chambers should always be dry when live firing.

Lubricated chambers inhibit case/chamber adhesion allowing the case to put undo pressure on the breach face.

Chambers should always be dry when live firing.

Lubricated chambers inhibit case/chamber adhesion allowing the case to put undo pressure on the breach face.

Yup, keep the chambers dry.

 

Oil inside will cause higher pressures, and it'll also collect debris that'll make loading harder.

 

The same goes for lubrication under the ratchet

Causes the same effect as higher pressure by allowing the case head to push harder on the breach but the pressure in the case doesn't increase

 

 

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Put your brush on an electric drill if you want to really clean that chamber out.

I guess I learned sumthin' today.  I don't use a lot of oil, just a really light coating in the chambers.  Not even enough to show-up on spent casings.  Using a .357 and sportin' factory Magtech 158 gr. LRN .38 Spls through it hasn't seemed to create a problem when I shoot a practice Match.  Should I be worried or is an L-Frame .357 up to the extra pressure you guys mentioned?  Thanks!

 

Dave

Put your brush on an electric drill if you want to really clean that chamber out.

 

If that doesn't work, wrap the brush with some 100 grit sandpaper.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If that doesn't work, wrap the brush with some 100 grit sandpaper.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sandpaper?  That's a joke right?  The abrasives in sandpaper will ruin the chamber.  A brass brush spinning on a cordless drill for a short period of time isn't going to do any damage to the steel, just to the lead, gunk and fouling that is on the steel's surface, since brass is softer than steel.  Sandpaper abrasives are harder than steel and will scratch and wear away the steel wherever they end up.

You guys ever use Lewis's Lead Remover with the brass screens?

Sandpaper?  That's a joke right?  The abrasives in sandpaper will ruin the chamber.  A brass brush spinning on a cordless drill for a short period of time isn't going to do any damage to the steel, just to the lead, gunk and fouling that is on the steel's surface, since brass is softer than steel.  Sandpaper abrasives are harder than steel and will scratch and wear away the steel wherever they end up.

seriously?  i guess sarcastic humor doesn't translate well over the internet, though I might have thought the smiley gave it away..  lol

seriously?  i guess sarcastic humor doesn't translate well over the internet, though I might have thought the smiley gave it away..  lol

 

Sorry, but I could just see someone giving sandpaper a try...the shotgun I am working on now, boy was it messed up by the prior owner!

Just to follow up, I went through the chambers with a .40 brush and Outers nitro solvent and brass now comes out perfectly. I had actually cleaned the chambers twice previously but using Froglube solvent. It maybe biodegradable, non-toxic, etc, but it doesn't do a very good job on carbon deposits and was evidently not good enough to clean out the chambers. While I'm still going to use Froglube solvent for regular cleanings, I'm going to start using conventional solvents for occasional detailed cleanings.

You guys ever use Lewis's Lead Remover with the brass screens?

Yes, seems to work okay.  I use it after shooting 38 lead swc out of  a 357.

Another good "tool" is to slightly bell a 357 case with a reloading press so it just fits in the cylinder.  Pushing this in will scrape the crud off the cylinder walls, and since it is brass no worries about damaging the cylinder.

 

Also for a stainless gun a lead removal cloth strip, wrapped around a 9mm brass brush, chucked in a drill works pretty good.  DO NOT USE IN A BLUED GUN.

Yes, seems to work okay.  I use it after shooting 38 lead swc out of  a 357.

Another good "tool" is to slightly bell a 357 case with a reloading press so it just fits in the cylinder.  Pushing this in will scrape the crud off the cylinder walls, and since it is brass no worries about damaging the cylinder.

 

Also for a stainless gun a lead removal cloth strip, wrapped around a 9mm brass brush, chucked in a drill works pretty good.  DO NOT USE IN A BLUED GUN.

Good idea on the belled 357 case!!! Genius!!!!

 

That's why I always hated shooting 38spl lead in a 357 chamber!!!

 

Genius again!!!