Does anyone have a definitive answer whether an OBDI (not OBDII) car can be inspected with the CEL on or is the light on a cause for automatic rejection or a refusal to inspect? The vehicle in question is a '93 Camry V6.

It will fail, if that's what you mean. It will still be inspected so you get a rejection sticker and some time to fix. I had a CEL from improperly gapped plugs and the station failed me based on the printout.

it can still be run thru inspection, prior to 1996, a tailpipe test is done, therefore you still have a chance of it passing inspection

Does anyone have a definitive answer whether an OBDI (not OBDII) car can be inspected with the CEL on or is the light on a cause for automatic rejection or a refusal to inspect? The vehicle in question is a '93 Camry V6.

non obd2 cars get a tail pipe test. they don't give a dam about the cel on those.

It will fail, if that's what you mean. It will still be inspected so you get a rejection sticker and some time to fix. I had a CEL from improperly gapped plugs and the station failed me based on the printout.

this is wrong. your car does not fail for a cel on obd1 cars.

There used to be a waiver that you could get if you spent $450 to fix the emissions and it still wouldn't pass.  I think they eliminated that

that was 450 in parts. they didn't count labor. and you could only use it one time.

God, I miss inspections in NJ. I have an OBD1 truck, and in PA they do full inspections at private mechanics so everyone finds random things to fail you for.

God, I miss inspections in NJ. I have an OBD1 truck, and in PA they do full inspections at private mechanics so everyone finds random things to fail you for.

dude.....i had a customer with a honda pilot have me do a full safety check for him, so he wouldn't fail. he took it to the honda dealer over there in pa. they failed it. for tie rods. that weren't bad. i know, 'cause he brought it to me pre-approved to do them, and i refused. i don't take bad money, and i don't like fixing things that aren't broken. i showed him, and he took it up with a service manager. their excuse? "well, they look like they might go bad soon, so we failed it. he got them to reverse that and pass his car.

Thanks to all. It's the 55 code for a problem in the knock sensor circuit. In theory when the fault trips the timing defaults to 0 deg BTDC. This one doesn't. It's maintaining about 7-8 deg at idle and goes to 10 deg with the jumper on the diagnostic port. Runs perfectly with no apparent loss of power. I put tape on the dash so I don't have to look at the light and I'll worry about it when inspection is due. If it fails I'll either fix it myself if I'm up to it, get it fixed (about $900 to $1K because the OEM sensors are expensive and are under the intake manifold.), or sell it as is. I hate to give it up as I bought it new, it only has 57K on the clock, and otherwise runs perfectly. Again, thanks to all.

Thanks to all. It's the 55 code for a problem in the knock sensor circuit. In theory when the fault trips the timing defaults to 0 deg BTDC. This one doesn't. It's maintaining about 7-8 deg at idle and goes to 10 deg with the jumper on the diagnostic port. Runs perfectly with no apparent loss of power. I put tape on the dash so I don't have to look at the light and I'll worry about it when inspection is due. If it fails I'll either fix it myself if I'm up to it, get it fixed (about $900 to $1K because the OEM sensors are expensive and are under the intake manifold.), or sell it as is. I hate to give it up as I bought it new, it only has 57K on the clock, and otherwise runs perfectly. Again, thanks to all.

nissan?

nissan?

'93 Camry wagon, V6, 3VZ-FE

'93 Camry wagon, V6, 3VZ-FE

DAM, I WAS WAY OFF, LOLOL

 

when you're ready to do it, call me. i got a "work around" that might letcha install a new one in just an hour or so.

Thank you. Is that the work around I saw at Toyota Nation with a single sensor with a modified harness mounted to a nut welded to the lift bracket? I thought that was particularly ingenious. When this thread completes I will definitely print it out, file it with my manuals, and seek your guidance if it fails inspection. I have some time yet on that.

Thank you. Is that the work around I saw at Toyota Nation with a single sensor with a modified harness mounted to a nut welded to the lift bracket? I thought that was particularly ingenious. When this thread completes I will definitely print it out, file it with my manuals, and seek your guidance if it fails inspection. I have some time yet on that.

sorta? i've not done that on a toyota yet. but i've done it on a couple pathfinders. i just bolted the new one to the upper intake though. the hardest part is getting the connector off. but.......it's a way i managed to save some people a ton of money when they NEEDED their cars obd2 to go through.

A bit of good news..... Got this response from Parsons which I had contacted through the MVC website...

 

"Pre 1996 vehicles do not receive an OBD test, they receive a TSI or an idle test. Therefore, the Check Engine Light being illuminated is not an automatic failure for these vehicles."

A bit of good news..... Got this response from Parsons which I had contacted through the MVC website...

 

"Pre 1996 vehicles do not receive an OBD test, they receive a TSI or an idle test. Therefore, the Check Engine Light being illuminated is not an automatic failure for these vehicles."

just like i said. once in awhile, i gets it right.

No offense intended. Like Reagan said, "Trust, but verify".

No offense intended. Like Reagan said, "Trust, but verify".

i know. i'd have done the same. i was just really being a bit of a wise ass in that last post.

I never posted a final resolution on this, so here goes. I used the work around from Toyota Nation. Got all the parts on Ebay for about $90. Local guy would only do it by the book with OEM parts for about $1100. Light is out, code is gone, car runs perfectly. Since the car is a grocery getter here and not used in a third world crap hole to pull a trailer full of goats up a mountain, no pinging and all is well.

dude.....i had a customer with a honda pilot have me do a full safety check for him, so he wouldn't fail. he took it to the honda dealer over there in pa. they failed it. for tie rods. that weren't bad. i know, 'cause he brought it to me pre-approved to do them, and i refused. i don't take bad money, and i don't like fixing things that aren't broken. i showed him, and he took it up with a service manager. their excuse? "well, they look like they might go bad soon, so we failed it. he got them to reverse that and pass his car.

 

Wow, what a money making scam.  They do the inspection, fail you, charge you to fix it.  That sounds more like it should be NJ rather than PA.

I never posted a final resolution on this, so here goes. I used the work around from Toyota Nation. Got all the parts on Ebay for about $90. Local guy would only do it by the book with OEM parts for about $1100. Light is out, code is gone, car runs perfectly. Since the car is a grocery getter here and not used in a third world crap hole to pull a trailer full of goats up a mountain, no pinging and all is well.

sad part about all of this? i think it's may 1 that you won't need to inspect anything older than 96.

How many miles are you up to now ? That's got to be a serious relationship you have with your car, 23 years.

sad part about all of this? i think it's may 1 that you won't need to inspect anything older than 96.

Is that NJ or PA you're talking about?

Went to NJ MVC website saw everything 95 or older is exempt.

 

Thanx for bringing this to my attention. My 92 Buick is due this month so I don't have to bother to take it.

Along those lines... I learned today that if you swap your battery in a recent model car... Then have it inspected, you'll fail. The secondary air and evap were "Not Ready". Or something similar. Don't have the sheet in front of me.

 

Bummer....

 

I have to drive the vehicle a couple to few hundred miles supposedly to provide enough data for those two sensors to report something... I'm told.

 

Miss the good old days......

when you're ready to do it, call me. i got a "work around" that might letcha install a new one in just an hour or so.

Do you happen to know if it's possible to change the rear spark plugs and wires on a '99 ford taurus U engine without removing the upper intake manifold and without taking off the shield under the wipers ?

Do you happen to know if it's possible to change the rear spark plugs and wires on a '99 ford taurus U engine without removing the upper intake manifold and without taking off the shield under the wipers ?

Is that a trick question?

Along those lines... I learned today that if you swap your battery in a recent model car... Then have it inspected, you'll fail. The secondary air and evap were "Not Ready". Or something similar. Don't have the sheet in front of me.

 

Bummer....

 

I have to drive the vehicle a couple to few hundred miles supposedly to provide enough data for those two sensors to report something... I'm told.

 

Miss the good old days......

 

 

Correct.  MV inspection will not pass it.  "They" say OBD II wants some run time - personally I think its to keep us shade-tree mechanics from clearing the codes around the corner from the inspection station.   

Schrödinger's cat, on 14 Apr 2016 - 12:39 AM, said:

Do you happen to know if it's possible to change the rear spark plugs and wires on a '99 ford taurus U engine without removing the upper intake manifold and without taking off the shield under the wipers ?

Is that a trick question?

 

 

Not a trick question...I don't know about the Taurus motor, but the Pontiac Grand Prix you had to not only remove all that crap, you had to take-off the top motor mount and ROLL THE ENGINE forward....