Hey guys. So my normal mechanic has been doing a less then satisfactory job on the past few things I've needed done and I need to get a brake job done. I have a metal on metal grinding when the brake is fully depressed at low speed. I'm thinking I just need some new pads but the caliper is probably jacked at this point. I'd rather give one of you guys or a friend the business instead of trusting my luck randomly. It is a 2004 Toyota Sequoia. I'm looking to trade this thing in or sell it privately if it doesn't look so bad but the think has been mechanically perfect in the 150k miles it has.

 

Tldr: 2004 Toyota Sequoia needs a brake job(and oil change) in central jersey around somerset county

 

Thanks!

 

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Bump

 

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There is no reason to suspect the calipers are bad. The pads have worn down and touching the rotors.

If you are getting rid of it and the sound just started, just slap a new set of pads on for 30 bucks.

 

If you can build an AR you can surly change your brake pads.

There is no reason to suspect the calipers are bad. The pads have worn down and touching the rotors.

If you are getting rid of it and the sound just started, just slap a new set of pads on for 30 bucks.

 

If you can build an AR you can surly change your brake pads.

 

I second this advice, calipers are fine the metal you hear is from the metal on the back of the pads.  Worst case you may need a rotor but I would go with pads.  1/2 hour job to change them.

I appreciate the advice guys. I know I can do the pads myself but I was hoping to find someone to go over the car and see if it's worth keeping another 50k miles or just trade it in now before it gets to be a headache. I can follow a YouTube video and solve some pretty complex problems on my own but I don't know much about my specific platform

 

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Bring it over, I can look it over and teach you how to replace the pads, rotors and calipers if needed.

Bring it over, I can look it over and teach you how to replace the pads, rotors and calipers if needed.

Bring it over, I can look it over and teach you how to replace the pads, rotors and calipers if needed.

We can set up a date soon, Dad.

 

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STS Princeton/Montgomery

Its really easy.. I changed the rotors and pads on both of our cars in the driveway last spring. Rust welded rotors can be a b*tch, though.

 

Rockauto.com is a great source for car parts. I think i paid about 150-200 per car versus paying a shop hundreds more

how long have they been grinding? if it's been too long, you need to check the calipers. once the piston's been over extended, that caliper will need to be replaced or rebuilt. if they're not fairly evenly worn side to side, you need to check the calipers, pins, and hardware, 'cause something had to cause that uneven wear.

 

 when you disassemble, try pressing the piston back into the caliper. it should go in with only light resistance. be sure to replace....or at least machine the rotor, providing it's thick enough to machine.

Well heres my $.02.

Check for stuck caliper pins. If these guys are bound up, you get all kinds of clunking and grinding noises.

I appreciate the advise guys. It's at a local place for a quick brake job. If it's more then that I've reached out to a friend who is arguably one of the best tuner mechanics on the east coast. He built the first RWD Civic(first gen doesn't count) and does a lot of work on the side for dirt cheap.

 

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how long have they been grinding? if it's been too long, you need to check the calipers. once the piston's been over extended, that caliper will need to be replaced or rebuilt. if they're not fairly evenly worn side to side, you need to check the calipers, pins, and hardware, 'cause something had to cause that uneven wear.

 

when you disassemble, try pressing the piston back into the caliper. it should go in with only light resistance. be sure to replace....or at least machine the rotor, providing it's thick enough to machine.

Well heres my $.02.

Check for stuck caliper pins. If these guys are bound up, you get all kinds of clunking and grinding noises.

You guys win. Stuck caliper pin on. Pad was fine on one side and bare metal on the other

 

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I appreciate the advise guys. It's at a local place for a quick brake job. If it's more then that I've reached out to a friend who is arguably one of the best tuner mechanics on the east coast. He built the first RWD Civic(first gen doesn't count) and does a lot of work on the side for dirt cheap.

 

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Where is this indy and does he do Bimmers?  My X5 is 13 years old and I have all parts to do all 4 corners of brakes but just running short on time - I bought all the parts to rebuild the calipers too (boot and seal kits, slider pins, bushings, bleeder screws) and just really wanted to be all fresh at all 4 corners.  There is a good Euro shop on 22 in Green Brook I've used in the past but they have gotten stupid expensive since they built that huge shop, they used to be in a small garage up 31 in Washington and were a bit more reasonably priced - now they compete with the BMW dealer for the most part although their work is impeccable -

Where is this indy and does he do Bimmers? My X5 is 13 years old and I have all parts to do all 4 corners of brakes but just running short on time - I bought all the parts to rebuild the calipers too (boot and seal kits, slider pins, bushings, bleeder screws) and just really wanted to be all fresh at all 4 corners. There is a good Euro shop on 22 in Green Brook I've used in the past but they have gotten stupid expensive since they built that huge shop, they used to be in a small garage up 31 in Washington and were a bit more reasonably priced - now they compete with the BMW dealer for the most part although their work is impeccable -

He works for cooper Tire in greenbrook. I'm not sure if he's taking any more side work. His name is Chris Capparelli

 

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I have the same truck, although mine's a 2001. I take mine to Freedman Tire in Edison. Owner, Jake, very honest and trustworthy.

Where is this indy and does he do Bimmers?  My X5 is 13 years old and I have all parts to do all 4 corners of brakes but just running short on time - I bought all the parts to rebuild the calipers too (boot and seal kits, slider pins, bushings, bleeder screws) and just really wanted to be all fresh at all 4 corners.  There is a good Euro shop on 22 in Green Brook I've used in the past but they have gotten stupid expensive since they built that huge shop, they used to be in a small garage up 31 in Washington and were a bit more reasonably priced - now they compete with the BMW dealer for the most part although their work is impeccable -

Maybe ask 1LtCap if he'll do it.

All of it is easy.  Or ...pretty easy.

 

Pads, rotors, even calipers and wear sensors if you have them. I have no car repair training and have been done brakes on Honda's, Chevy's, Ford's, BMW's and Toyota's.  You can do it.  Just have the correct tools.  Sometimes larger allen keys for the caliper pins.  A C clamp for press back the caliper pistons.

 

Even bleeding is not too bad.  Need the right fluid feeder with it's own pressure pump.  I bought one at BavAuto.com  Worked really well.  Did it solo.

 

If someone shows you, that's great.  If not, search YouTube or get a service manual if you like printed material better.  I was able to change the rear wheel bearing on our old Ford Explorer with the help from a decent post on the Explorer Forums.  That can be a bit tougher than brakes but the info made it doable.  Brakes are an order of magnitude less complicated.

Agreed, except for the time I confidently told a friend brakes are a piece of cake and he brought his Mazda cx-9 to me. I could not get the rear rotor off for the life of me because of the parking brake, and the adjuster was broken (I think) finally I just beat the rotor off and thankfully was able to just beat the new rotor on. But that was a pretty miserable experience.

ya oughta try rear pads on a newer vw/audi. make a simple mistake and it'll cost ya new calipers. at 900 bucks a pop. and lest i heard, they were on national backorder.