Couple of questions for you all.

I have a S&W 15-6 in need of re-bluing (holster and handling wear primarily). Can anyone give me a ball park figure on what this would cost? Also, I'd appreciate recommendations of places that would do this, preferably within an hour of the Trenton area.

Thanks for your help.

Why not send it back to S&W?

Following this closely. I have a 15-3 that could use a once over.

 

Good idea Ray, but - Quality of work beibg equal - given the choice between mailing it to Springfield Mass and driving to wherever in NJ, I'd prefer to take the ride.

Paterson Metals does this kind of work if it's not receiver related. Not sure if they'll do a whole gun.

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2 hours ago, Ray Ray said:

Why not send it back to S&W?

Not sure, but just trying to avoid shipping if there's a place close by. I'll give them a call.

I gotta be honest with you brother, model 15s are easy to find.  Is this gun a safe queen or do you plan on using it for self defense?

pretty sure theres no one in NJ that does good bluing, even smith themselves doesn't doing bluing as good as they used to.

These are the guys I use:

http://www.eastcoastbluing.com/

Nice work, they don't grind them up.  Deep bluing and no spots.  Equal to factory S&W blue.

I have no affiliation and they are just outside of Goshen,NY

14 hours ago, Ray Ray said:

I gotta be honest with you brother, model 15s are easy to find.  Is this gun a safe queen or do you plan on using it for self defense?

Not for SD, that's what my 870 is for. Safe queen and plinking. Also, it's close to what I originally qualified on in the USAF, so "sentimental" value if you will.

5 hours ago, Old School said:

These are the guys I use:

http://www.eastcoastbluing.com/

Nice work, they don't grind them up.  Deep bluing and no spots.  Equal to factory S&W blue.

I have no affiliation and they are just outside of Goshen,NY

Thanks for the suggestion - I'll give them a call as well.

 

Can we see how bad (or good) the finish is now?

Here's a BIG!!! hint.

When you ship a firearm for bluing, if you can strip it to bare components and just send the parts you want blued and you can save money.

On your Smith this means removing the cylinder and crane and strip it.

Strip the frame of all hammer / trigger components and springs reinstall the side plate and screws.

Just sending the parts you want blued.

Pics

 

 

@SpaceMX, it looks fine to me.  Shoot her, clean her and call it a day.

My compromise...

 

Don't drink it @SpaceMX

15 hours ago, SpaceMX said:

My compromise...

Use OXPHO-Blue liquid or paste:

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/liquid-cold-bluing-chemicals/oxpho-blue--prod1072.aspx?

degrease with alcohol and apply with Q-tip until it matches

6 minutes ago, Old School said:

Use OXPHO-Blue liquid or paste:

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/liquid-cold-bluing-chemicals/oxpho-blue--prod1072.aspx?

Thanks for the help!  The Birchwood Casey stuff isn't as good I guess?

Oxpho is what the pro's use for touch. up.

Just do the spots you need done.

Watch a youtube video

I've heard good things about S&W redoing it...

Personally, I hate blued finish. It looks good, but it really is just rust that looks good. I like Melonite (it's just black oxide on the surface), and have had good luck with it, but for guns I want to stay looking good, I go with a nickel based plating; CCR's cera-plate or Robar's NP3+. Never did a revolver in cera-plate, but here is my 642-1 in NP3+.





Nickel isn't for everyone, but I feel matte versions look pretty good in most circumstances. Polished... too much upkeep required. Also, wear looks a lot better on nickel than bluing. CCR supposedly did a black plating, but I believe as it wears, the black goes away and the nickel shows through. Robar does a spray on finish over NP3 that is similar.

If it is a gun you are going to shoot, it will wear. Even rebluing or touching up spots will eventually wear again... quicker the more you use it.