I"m helping a friend put together his Anderson stripped lower.  He purchased a LPK from Geissele.  

I put my Anderson lower together a few years ago and it was fairly easy.

We are figgin' POUNDING on the trigger guard roll pin and it just doesn't want to go in.  Same thing with bolt catch release.

I'm just curious if anyone else has had any problems assembling an Anderson lower recently.

Maybe we need to slightly hand drill some of the holes?

1 minute ago, gleninjersey said:

We are figgin' POUNDING on the trigger guard roll pin

You should not be frigging pounding anything during a lower assembly.

I'm busy making Lasagna for 40 people......  someone else will come along and help.

I only have time for quick snarky remarks in between

I KNOW that.  Thank you for snarky remarks.  Made me laugh.  He described it as trying to fit the John Holmes  big "d" in the little "a" hole.  Not sure what he meant by that.  And yes, he lubed up (the roll pins). 

Just trying to see if anyone else has had problems with Anderson lowers recently...

 

7 minutes ago, gleninjersey said:

I'm just curious if anyone else has had any problems assembling an Anderson lower recently.

I did one a few months ago with a PSA lower build kit, no problem. I just replaced the PSA trigger with a LaRue, didn't have any issues either.

Do you have a small C clamp (or vice grips) that you can use to press in the pins?

 

That's a good idea Sniper.  Will bring one next time I'm over at his place.  He's frustrated and we are moving on to smoking cigars and drinking some whiskey and tequila....

Which forge marking is on it?

6 minutes ago, FXDX said:

Which forge marking is on it?

Looks like a keyhole:

https://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server5500/47d11/product_images/uploaded_images/mark.jpg?t=1458713729

so I guess Anderson that didn't change forges,  had the same from one of the FFL's here a few years back but traded it in at LGS for a shotgun. you'll fix it, good luck

I’ve seen several Anderson lowers that are OOS. 

You may be able to freeze the parts in question and then tap them in. 

A hammer should NEVER be used on a lower. You probably buggered up the hole. If you can't push the hammer and trigger pins in with your finger tips, something is wrong. I suggest cleaning up the hole with a file, then use antiwalk pins.

1 hour ago, Displaced Texan said:

I’ve seen several Anderson lowers that are OOS. 

You may be able to freeze the parts in question and then tap them in. 

You serious Clark? (Insert National Lampoon' s Christmas Vacaction pic here).

About freezing the parts... 

Okay, I have a few minutes to not be snarky.

The spring tension on the trigger can put the trigger out of alignment.  Find a drill bit just smaller than the hole, put it in as far as it will go (even if it's comong out the other side)  on the opposite side you are driving the pin.  This will keep everything in alignment while you GENTLY tap the pin through with a brass or plastic hammer (or a large screwdriver handle).  As the pin goes in, it will knock the drill bit out.  Easy peasey.

11 minutes ago, gleninjersey said:

You serious Clark? (Insert National Lampoon' s Christmas Vacaction pic here).

About freezing the parts... 

Freeze pin warm lower with hair dryer.

old school bearing/ gear trick

required for some barrels also( not AR)

8 minutes ago, Scorpio64 said:

Okay, I have a few minutes to not be snarky.

The spring tension on the trigger can put the trigger out of alignment.  Find a drill bit just smaller than the hole, put it in as far as it will go (even if it's comong out the other side)  on the opposite side you are driving the pin.  This will keep everything in alignment while you GENTLY tap the pin through with a brass or plastic hammer (or a large screwdriver handle).  As the pin goes in, it will knock the drill bit out.  Easy peasey.

Trigger guard

6 minutes ago, Zeke said:

Trigger guard 

Doh!

3 minutes ago, Scorpio64 said:

Doh!

It’s ok Heathcliff 

Had these issues I believe with some older Spikes lowers and PSA LPK.

5 hours ago, gleninjersey said:

I KNOW that.  Thank you for snarky remarks.  Made me laugh.  He described it as trying to fit the John Holmes  big "d" in the little "a" hole.  Not sure what he meant by that.  And yes, he lubed up (the roll pins). 

Just trying to see if anyone else has had problems with Anderson lowers recently...

 

everything works better with lube

7 minutes ago, 1LtCAP said:

everything works better with lube

You would have thought it as Frank's Hot Sauce.  He "put that stuff on everything!".

12 hours ago, PK90 said:

A hammer should NEVER be used on a lower.

Mmmm, literally every build video says to use a non-marring hammer.  

I agree you shouldn't need a regular hammer and you shouldn't need to heat it hard.  But then that's kind of the point of my post.  You should be able to gently tap everything in with a wee little hammer.

39 minutes ago, gleninjersey said:

You should be able to gently tap everything in with a wee little hammer.

Did you try the freezing trick?

 

15 hours ago, PK90 said:

A hammer should NEVER be used on a lower. You probably buggered up the hole. If you can't push the hammer and trigger pins in with your finger tips, something is wrong. I suggest cleaning up the hole with a file, then use antiwalk pins.

????  jave put over a hundred lowers tigether and never was able to use finger tips to push in tension pins.  

Op...simple....drill it out a little

1 hour ago, Displaced Texan said:

Did you try the freezing trick?

 

i've used that in the distant past to install ball joints in my old chevy 4x4

15 hours ago, PK90 said:

If you can't push the hammer and trigger pins in with your finger tips, something is wrong.

It wasn't the hammer and trigger pins he was having a problem with:

16 hours ago, gleninjersey said:

We are figgin' POUNDING on the trigger guard roll pin and it just doesn't want to go in.  Same thing with bolt catch release.

Those are more difficult than the trigger pins.

With the Anderson lower I did recently, I used either a pair of vice grips or channel locks with the jaws taped to prevent scratches to squeeze/press those two pins in. Didn't need heat, cold or lube. Don't remember it being an issue,

13 minutes ago, Sniper said:

It wasn't the hammer and trigger pins he was having a problem with:

Ohhhh. Okay. That splains it. 

38 minutes ago, PK90 said:

Ohhhh. Okay. That splains it. 

Don't feel too bad.  You were not the only one to make that mistake.

@gleninjersey, the drill bit trick will still work.  Just run it through on the opposite side and tap it out as you drive the roll pin through.  The key is to keep all the holes aligned to avoid hitting and possibly peening the inside of the trigger guard ear.

When in doubt get a bigger hammer.........and please record it for our viewing pleasure 

I always dress the end with a file and then squeeze the end together just a bit to taper it some. I use Chanel locks wrapped with electrical tape to install the pin. Never a problem.   

I would attempt to modify the pin not the lower. The rolls pins should squeeze at the end, or even file off a bit to get it started. Sometimes they are hard to get started, but go right in with a punch

 

14 minutes ago, JackDaWack said:

I would attempt to modify the pin not the lower. The rolls pins should squeeze at the end, or even file off a bit to get it started. Sometimes they are hard to get started, but go right in with a punch

 

Geiselle is good stuff.

im curious if the lower has a fixed trigger guard already... ‘tis the season @gleninjersey