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DRILL2 GUN INTO ACTION DRILL: Use snap caps and remove all live ammunition from area. Practice getting gun from your secure location and getting it ready for action. A lot of this will depend on what you have, how you have it stored (which condition), and where you have it stored. Ideally you want to choreograph your movements to make the entire process as quick, easy, and efficient as possible. As you work through this you may find you need to change up the order of what you do or how it is stored to make the process more efficient or easier. Usually if you work on efficiency of motion, it also makes it easier to remember what comes next in the process. If you forget what's next, wherever your hand is, it is probably near the next action. I have a handgun in a lock box stored with a full mag in gun, but no rounds in the chamber (called condition 3 or cruiser ready). The trigger is already pulled so it will feel different, which lets me know it needs to be racked. It has a Red Dot Sight (RDS) with a cover on it (it automatically turns on when it senses light). When I grab that gun, all I have to do is rack the gun and take off the RDS cover. I can do this in one movement. I actually grab the gun with right hand, grab the 2nd magazine with left hand and put it up against the web of my hand between my pointer and middle finger in a cigar hold (see 2 magazine drills below) and then rack and remove the RDS cover. For my rifles and shotguns, they are in a cruiser ready state with bolt forward, safety on, sling wrapped behind stock (pistol brace) and secured with a ranger band. RDS is off, but offset back up iron sights are flipped up. To put it into action, I have found the most efficient order for me is to get a proper grip on the rear grip with my right hand (I'm right handed), finger off the trigger, grab the sling at the rear of the stock (or pistol brace) with my left hand, yank it out, throw my left arm through it and don the rifle. As I put my left arm through the sling, my hand naturally comes close to my RDS so I turn that on next by rotating the knob. I then rack the charging handle and adjust the pistol brace length then put my thumb on the safety and I'm ready to go. TLDR: Grip (Finger Off Trigger) Sling RDS/BUIS Rack charging handle Extend Pistol Brace Thumb on Safety Start slow, then build speed. Adjust method for efficiency and ease. Crawl, Walk, Run. Build proper muscle memory and avoid training scars. Practice this every time you take gun out (after making it safe).

I'm going to make a post for each drill to make it easier to find or link to later. Some of these drills may be only applicable to handgun or long gun only, but most of these drills you can adapt to either. The drills start out very basic and get more advanced, working on the skills from the previous ones. Mastering the fundamentals is key. Practice does not make perfect. Practice makes permanent. Only perfect practice makes perfect. Start out slow and work your way up, building perfect muscle memory. Crawl, Walk, Run. Try not to create training scars. Drill 1 LOADING/UNLOADING/CLEARING PRACTICE: Use snap caps/dummy rounds to practice loading/unloading magazines and guns, checking gun, making gun safe, cycling rounds through the gun as well as practice clearing malfunctions. CHECKING GUN -Keep gun pointed in safe direction at all times -Finger off trigger the entire time -Drop step, so you can keep pointing gun in safe direction -Eject magazine with mag release button, let gravity do the work for you. -Push up on slide release button and lock slide back -Visually inspect barrel and magwell -Physically inspect barrel and magwell with pinky -ALWAYS do this when picking up a gun, and when handing a gun off and again when receiving it (even if you saw it being checked) INSERTING MAGAZINES (fully load magazine with snap caps) -Keep gun pointed in safe direction at all times -Finger off trigger the entire time -Bring gun up into your "workspace" -Your "workspace" is up in front of your face while you are looking forward, so you can clearly see what is going on with your gun, but you can also see what is going on around you in your peripheral vision. If the gun is down low, it is further away and you can't see what is goin on around you. Maintain situational awareness. -Rotate the gun so you can see the magwell. -Grab the magazine with thumb and middle finger with the bottom of the mag in your palm and your index finger on the side that the projectiles are on. -Insert the magazine quickly and forcefully into the gun so that it locks into place. -Check that the magazine is firmly seated and locked. -Hit the slide release button or pull the slide back to release it. Watch the round enter the chamber. -Don't be gentle, as that can actually cause a malfunction if the magazine or round is not loaded properly. -This is called an "Admin Load" as you are not under pressure and are taking the time to do it and check it right. CYCLING GUN BY RACKING -With the slide locked back, insert a full mag (snap caps) into the gun -Press down on slide lock button with your thumb to release the slide, chambering a round -Rack the slide back, ejecting rounds until you get last round slide lock UNLOADING GUN (snap caps in mag, one snap cap in chamber) -Drop the magazine with mag release button. Let gravity do the work for you. -One round will still be in the chamber -Rack the slide back with the ejection port facing downward -Look for round to fly out -Lock slide back by pushing slide lock button up while slide is racked back -Visually and physically inspect gun and place chamber flag in chamber -Place on table, pointing in a safe direction, ejection port side up, chamber flag visible -Gun has now been made safe AIMING AND FIRING (snap caps or laser trainer) -Proper hand position. High up on gun. -Finger off trigger -Proper fighting stance. Feet shoulder width apart, right foot slightly back (if righty). Hips squared. Lean a little forward. -Ready position is gun up tight to chest facing target, finger off trigger. -Push gun straight out towards target. Don't lock your elbows. Eyes should pickup sights as you push out. Lean a little forward. Head straight. -Take your time to aim. If you have iron sights close one eye and focus on front sight and have it cover your target. If Red Dot Sight (RDS) , once you see the red dot, keep both eyes open and focus on target. Red dot should be centered in window to minimize parallax. -Put finger on trigger and slowly bring it to the wall. -Breathe, as you exhale as the sight covers the target, squeeze the trigger and hold. Do not anticipate the shot. You first knuckle of you trigger finger should not move. -Bring gun back on target, maintain aim and evaluate keeping your sight picture. -Release trigger when ready, finding the reset. -Bring gun back to ready position, finger off trigger, safety on. -If you have to manually rack the slide to re-set the trigger, practice a Tap, Rack, Re-evaluate, instead of just quickly racking it.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED: The 2 things I think everyone who owns a gun should have are snap caps and a laser trainer. Snap Caps - Allow you to safely practice loading and unloading your magazine and gun as well as dryfire. Snap caps have a rubber insert that allows you to safely dryfire your gun without damaging your firing pin. Dummy rounds are solid aluminum and are not safe for your firing pin. Make sure you get snap caps. They come in most calibers. I have snap caps for every gun I own. Try to get ones that are a noticeably different color than the live rounds you may shoot. Recommend getting at least enough to be able to load 1 full magazine. Laser Trainer - There are many options here starting around $20 laser cartridges. Most of the cartridges are the very similar and do the same thing, fire a laser out the barrel when you pull the trigger. Accuracy (how straight its aligned) and durability will probably be the only difference between cheap and expensive ones. You can get an auto-resetting trigger laser system for your AR with the MantisX Blackbeard ($200). Auto-resetting trigger laser pistols (no recoil) from LaserLyte ($113) and SIRT (from $240). You can also get recoil enabled auto-resetting laser pistols from Laser-Ammo ($400) and Coolfire ($500) which use CO2 or Green Gas to cycle the gun and have removable magazines. While expensive, these recoil enabled laser pistols are probably the best option for most realistic training and training options. All of these laser trainers will work with any laser training app (you don't need to buy the laser cartridge made by the laser trainer app). You will also need a tripod with cellphone (or tablet) holder and a Laser Trainer app. Each laser trainer app will have its own targets that you will download and print out and put on your wall. You can buy kits from Mantis ($99-$149), G-Sight ($135), LaserHIT ($115), Strikeman ($99) that include a quality laser cartridge, tripod and phone holder, and access to the full version of their app. Plastic pen or cleaning rod to remove the laser cartridge. Going to need something long enough to push the laser cartridge back out when you are done and won't damage the barrel. Laser Trainer App - Mantis Laser Academy (Free-$50) on Android and iPhone. LaserHIT (Free-$20) on Android and iPhone. G-Sight (Free to $15) on Android and iPhone. Strikeman (Free-$10/mo subscription) on Android and iPhone. DryFireOnline (Free-$5/mo subscription and requires a projector) on Android and iPhone. Straight Shooter (Free - requires projector) on Android and iPhone. Each laser trainer app will have its own targets that you will download and print out and put on your wall. I'll probably do a separate Thread on laser training apps later, but TLDR version: I ended up purchasing the full Mantis Laser Academy for $50. OPTIONAL: TRT Tap Rack Dry Fire magazine inserts ($8) - These magazine inserts stops the slide stop from engaging when doing magazine change drills. Available in most calibers including rifles. Trigger Resetting Magazines ($100) - The special magazines from DryFireMag and TTrigger reset your trigger. Unfortunately they don't actually cycle the slide (no recoil) so they will not work with laser training cartridges. TLDR CHECKLIST: Empty gun Empty magazines (2) Snap Caps Laser Trainer Laser trainer cartridge removal tool Tripod phone holder Phone with laser training app Targets

Going to do a few posts on at home training including what you need, how to do it safely and cover some drills. From basic to some more advanced stuff. Really the importance is to focus on perfecting the basics and make it become second nature. It's important to start slowly, fix any mistakes, and build proper muscle memory. Avoid getting sloppy or lazy and developing training scars. Practice does not make perfect. Practice makes permanent. Only perfect practice makes perfect. I like to spend about 20 minutes a few days a week. 5 minutes for setup and clean up, and 15 minutes for practice. That's all that's really needed. Make sure you have a goal in mind on what you want to focus on. This will prevent you from getting sloppy and getting training scars, and will help you stay interested by allowing you to constantly improve. SAFETY: Setup a safe area where you will not be interrupted. Place your targets in the safest position in case of an accidental misfire. Immediately check and make your gun clear. Do the same with the magazines you will be practicing with (recommend 2 empty magazines). Retrieve all of the items you might need for this training. You don't want to have to go back into the safe or storage where your live guns and ammo are once you start practicing. Store and lock up all live ammunition away from where you will be doing the training for the entire duration of the training. If you can't lock it up, it should be in a separate room where you will not go until your training session is totally finished and you are putting everything away. Every time you pick up the gun, check that it is clear. Even though you know its clear, this creates the mindset to always check the status of a gun when you pick it up. When you are done training, you are done. Don't go back and do one more thing after you start putting things away. This is when accidents happen.

As the title says, recommend some training practice or drills. All levels. At home (snap cap, laser, etc) or at range. What are some of your favorites? What's a cool one probably not many people would know? Just looking for something new and different to try. If you know of a video, feel free to post or link to that.

So does that mean that you cannot own a Non-NFA Other and a Rifle at the same time because swapping uppers on both would make both illegal?

Please read the Non-NFA Other Build Guide. An Other can never have been a rifle, and can never have a stock on it. It must always have a VFG on it when assembled. It must always be over 26" OAL when assembled. You can buy one that was originally built to be an Other and then modify it (swap uppers) as long as it still meets those requirements to continue to be an Other. You could also make your own by starting with a stripped lower and never attaching a stock to it, and always make sure your permanent barrel length is at least 12.5" and has a VFG on it before you attach it to the lower. BTW, putting a VFG on a firearm with an OAL under 26" (aka a pistol) like the one you posted is a No No! You could have a Non-NFA Other with a 12.5" barrel and swap uppers with a 16" barrel as long as the 16" barrel has a VFG on it before you put it on the Other lower. This would allow you to use that upper on both a rifle and an Other. Basically if you have 2 barrels, both should always have a VFG on them so that you don't get in trouble with "constructive intent".

Homeowner was charged with gun crimes because he had drugs (marijuana). https://www.pennlive.com/crime/2022/04/homeowner-charged-after-fatally-shooting-armed-robber-authorities-say.html

Which TX Court/Judge said DD can't sue NJ AG?

As long as he was legally allowed to own guns (not a criminal, mental stable, etc), how would making these 2 guns be illegal right now? Massapequa Man Charged for Having ‘Ghost Guns’ After Accidentally Shooting Himself: Police – NBC New York

I've got a Gen 3 G17. The conversion isn't going to feel exactly like the real thing, but close enough. The difference between the G17 conversion and the Laser-Ammo G17 airsoft would be less than the feel difference between the conversion and the real thing. I would think Green Gas vs C02 would make more of a difference since CO2 recoils harder. I guess the difference would be I would have to outfit the laser-ammo with the same optic on my real G17 which then puts it at around the same cost.

When using an extended buffer tube like the Vltor A5 with a pistol brace, do you have to worry about keeping it under 13.5" LOP? It looks like the SB3 would just be under 13.5", but the SB4 would be over 13.5" with the A5. Pistol brace LOP rules? : guns (reddit.com)

Actually laser-ammo ends up being a lot cheaper than coolfire. You can get a laser-ammo Glock for ~$400 and Coolfire Glock kit starts at $500 with laser. You could also use it as an airsoft pistol.

Does anyone have one of the Laser-Ammo Recoil Trainers? Laser Ammo (laser-ammo.com)

@Mr.Stu how do you like the Coolfire system? How many shots do you get out of one magazine? How many magazines do you get to a bottle?

I got the Mantis Blackbeard and really like it. It's a lot of fun. Makes me want to get an auto-resetting or recoil enabled laser device for my handguns. I currently just have regular laser cartridges for them, but having to rack after pulling the trigger every time is less than ideal for training. Unfortunately recoil enabled resetting laser devices I've seen for handguns are $$$.

I tried the free Laser Academy. Can't believe the full version doesn't come with a $220 laser system purchase, and have to spend $50 more. I'm not opposed to it, but I'd like to see what else is out there before I spend the $50 on full LA.

What Laser Training apps have you tried, and which do you like and don't like? I have Mantis Blackbeard on the way for my AR-15 and a laser trainer cartridge for my bullpup pump shotgun and 9mm handguns. Looking for something that is fun, but that can also do the usual split time drills.

Funny I'm seeing a lot of sales on Wolf and Tulammo recently.

True. I was just trying to stay away from the nuances, technicalities, and extreme examples and instead speak in generalities from the perspective of a complete newb who does not own any guns and lives in NJ and wants the simplest and safest way in. Do you need a NJ FID to own a AR-15 in NJ? Technically no. If you lived outside of NJ and owned a NJ legal AR-15 or you inherited one in a will, technically you can legally have it in NJ as long as you would legally be allowed to get a FID (ie, not a felon, don't do drugs or an alcoholic, no history of mental illness, not a threat to the government, etc). But a newb would not already have an AR-15 and therefore that's not applicable. If you live in NJ and do not already own a gun, you need to have a NJ Firearms Purchaser ID in order to purchase a gun in NJ. Again, yes technically you can have one evil feature, but a pistol grip is the "evil feature" that almost all AR-15's that a newbie in NJ would want. To make it less confusing I'm assuming they will be getting an AR-15 with a pistol grip and therefore cannot have any more of "evil features" I listed. I suppose they could get a NY or CA legal "featureless" AR or one that has a fixed mag. But with "Post-Ban" and "Non-NFA Other" options available to us in NJ, I don't think anyone would recommend a newb get a featureless or non removable magazine AR. I did not realize that you only needed a NJ FID to buy hand gun ammo in NJ. Everywhere online I have bought they have asked for my NJ FID to ship any ammo to NJ. So while maybe legally you don't need it, technically you do because most online places won't ship to NJ without it. Also some gun shops may not know that and won't sell any ammo either unless you have an FID. Basically trying to make it a simple as possible without overwhelming them about the nuances and technicalities of the law. So if you are new to all this feel free to ignore this post and the last (it can get confusing and muddy the waters) and go by what was said in the FAQ in first post as it errs on the safe side. I have also edited the first post as much as I could with feedback from above.

Agree, but I would back that up even further and suggest that to an extent that the ammo you plan to shoot will play a part in which barrel you choose. If you plan on shooting 55gr ammo, don't get a barrel with 1:7 twist, or a 77gr in a 1:9 etc.

Updated with your feedback as well as added links, pics, and a few new sections.

Here is some info I gleaned over the last 6 months or so as I got into gun ownership with almost no knowledge of how to do it in NJ. These are all questions I had. Thought it might be helpful for other newbs who may not know how to get an AR-15 in NJ. Feel free to let me know if I'm wrong or if I left something out and I'll update it. 1) CAN I HAVE AN AR-15 in NJ? Yes, but you have to have a NJ FID to buy one. AR-15's are legal in NJ, but they have to be configured a certain way. The two common configurations are "Post Ban" rifle and "Non-NFA Other". Both will come with only 10rd magazines. In NJ, you cannot have "evil features" like an adjustable stock, threaded barrel, flash suppressor or barrel length less than 16" on a pistol grip semi-automatic rifle with a removable magazine (aka your typical AR-15). Ways around this are to use a fixed stock, a non threaded barrel or a pin and welded barrel with a muzzle device (non-flash suppressor type) (aka Post Ban configuration). A Non-NFA Other is a way around these restrictions as it is technically not a rifle or a pistol. Non-NFA Others must be Over 26" so as not to be classified as a pistol, and it must be designed to be fired with two hands and not designed to be shoulder fired so as not to be classified as a rifle. A Non-NFA Other cannot have a stock, but can have a "pistol brace". (EDIT: As of 1/13/2023 must have bare buffer tube (no brace) for now. UPDATE: As of 11/9/2023 ATF cannot enforce Pistol Brace Ban, therefore you can have a pistol brace again. For now....) It must have a vertical forward grip (not an angled forward grip). Since it is not a rifle, it can have a threaded barrel and a flash suppressor. Barrel lengths are usually over 12" in order to make the OAL (Over All Length) greater than 26". See the Non-NFA Other Build thread for more info. There are several manufacturers that specialize in "banned state" compliant firearms that sell NJ Legal AR-15's. Black Rain Ordinance, Dark Storm Industries, Modern Material, Troy A4 Other, Delta Level Defense, etc. You can also build your own. If building your own AR-15, only the Stripped Lower needs to be sent to an FFL and registered. All other parts can be sent directly to your house and are not registered. Post Ban Style AR-15 Non-NFA Other AR-15 2) WHAT IS A NJ FID, HOW DO I GET ONE, AND HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE? NJ FID stand for NJ Firearms Purchaser ID Card (also NJFPID). It is required to purchase any firearms or ammo in NJ. The link to the application is online here: https://www.njportal.com/NJSP/fars It can take around 6 weeks to get your FID card and costs around $20. If you are considering getting a hand gun, make sure you request to get pistol purchase permit(s) at the same time. It is the same process and hand gun purchase permits are cheap or free now (Update: now $25ea). They are good for 180 days and if you don't use them, no big deal. If you decide later you want a pistol, its another 6 week background check and $20. See this link for more info: https://www.nj.gov/njsp/firearms/firearms-faqs.shtml 3) DO I NEED A PURCHASE PERMIT TO PURCHASE AN AR-15 OR OTHER LONG GUNS? No. NJ Purchase Permits are only for handguns. However you do need a FID and all firearm sales need to go through a FFL. 4) CAN I PURCHASE A GUN (OR LOWER) ONLINE? Yes, but you will have to have it shipped to your FFL, who will then do the paperwork and NICS background check to register and transfer it to you. 5) WHAT IS A FFL? Federal Firearms License (FFL). Basically your local gun store is an FFL. If you purchase a gun (or AR-15 lower) online you will have to have it shipped to an FFL. They will then handle the paperwork and NICS background check to get it registered to you. The fee for this is usually around $75. You should generally contact the FFL before having a gun (or Lower) sent to them to let them know and find about their costs and processes. 6) WHAT IS A NICS CHECK? Its the FBI's National Instant Criminal Background Check System (NICS). Every time you buy a gun in NJ, you will need to have a NICS check done by your FFL. This can usually take 2-3 days, but sometimes as long as a week. What that means is that you cannot just walk into a gun store and buy a gun and leave with it the same day. If you have a gun (or AR Lower) delivered to your FFL, you will need to come in to do the paperwork for your NICS check after they have received the gun. You will then have to wait until the NICS check comes back, and then you can go in, fill out the registration paperwork and take it home. Basically when you purchase a gun you will have to go to the gun store/FFL twice, a few days apart. You really don't need to worry about any of this as the FFL will take care of it and explain it to you. The cost for the NICS check is around $20. FYI, if you pickup more than one gun at the same time at the same store, you only need to do one NICS check. 7) CAN I PURCHASE MORE THAN ONE LONG GUN IN 30 DAYS? Yes. The 30 day rule only applies to handguns. 8) WHAT CHAMBER SIZE SHOULD I GET? AR-15's have several options available for chamber size. 5.56 NATO, .223 Winchester, .300 Blackout, 6.5 Grendel, .50 Beowulf, etc. If the format is X.XX it is in millimeters, and if the format is .XXX it is in inches. The most common is 5.56/.223. 5.56 and .223 are the same size bullets (5.56mm=.223"), but 5.56 can have higher pressures. A gun chambered in 5.56 can shoot both 5.56 and .223. A gun chambered in .223 should not shoot 5.56 as it is potentially unsafe (it probably won't blow up right away, but it might weaken or damage the barrel). The exception to this is .223 Wylde which can shoot both .223 and 5.56 and is slightly more accurate (at the cost of being slightly more finicky) than 5.56. Since 5.56/.223 are the most common, they have the most options and lowest prices per round with .223 being cheaper than 5.56. 5.56 is probably the ideal chamber size AR-15 for home defense. Note, you can buy .22LR conversion kits for your 5.56/.223 from companies like CMMG in order to practice and not spend a fortune on ammo. .22LR is around $0.10/round while .223 is around $0.65/round and 5.56 is around $0.70/round right now. .300 AAC Blackout is another popular chamber size. It is essentially a very good choice if you want to shoot suppressed. Unfortunately you cannot have a suppressor in NJ. You can't even have a threaded barrel on a rifle in NJ. If you want to shoot suppressed (where legal), you should consider subsonic rounds. .300 Blackout rounds are around $0.75/round. 6.5 Grendel is great round for long distance shooting in an AR-15. 6.5 Grendel is about $2.00/round. .50 Beowulf is the biggest caliber bullet you can use in an AR-15. I don't really know what the practical application would be for .50 Beowulf. Maybe taking down Elk or Bear or something like that, but I hear it is a lot of fun to shoot, at least for a little bit. .50 Beowulf is around $2.45/round. One cool thing is that since the AR-15 is modular, you can buy and register one Lower, and then buy different Uppers (and corresponding magazines) in different chambers and swap them in only a few seconds to suit your shooting needs. Also Uppers take up a lot less room in a gun safe than full rifles. 9) WHAT IS AN UPPER? AR-15's quickly and easily separate into 2 main parts by pushing out 2 takedown pins. A Complete Upper is the part that contains the Receiver, the BCG (Bolt Carrier Group), the barrel, gas tube, and the barrel shroud or hand guard. Most of these parts are specific to the caliber bullets you are using. None of these items are serialized or registered and can be shipped directly to your house. You can build a Complete Upper but it is a lot more complex than building a Complete Lower, therefore it is a lot easier just to buy a Complete Upper. FYI, the barrel is the most important part of the rifle if you care about accuracy and longevity, and its the part you should invest money into. Complete Upper 10) WHAT IS A LOWER? A Stripped Lower is just the solid metal part that holds the trigger, magazine, and buffer tube. It is the serialized part and legally considered the gun. It must be sent to an FFL in order to be registered. If building a Non-NFA Other, you must use a Stripped Lower. 2 categories of Lowers are forged and billet. Forged is usually lighter due to less material, while billet is usually more complex and cool looking but also more expensive. There really isn't a functional difference. The majority of differences between Lowers will be cosmetic. A Complete Lower contains the Lower, the buffer tube, buffer, buffer spring, stock (or pistol brace), grip, trigger assembly, hammer, trigger guard, magazine release, safety, and take down pins. None of these things are specific to the caliber ammo you are using in your AR-15. This allows you to swap Uppers and use the same Lower for different calibers or length barrels. Stripped Lower Complete Lower 11) WHAT BARREL LENGTH SHOULD I GET? If you are getting a Rifle, it needs to be at least 16" to be legal in NJ. If shorter than 16", it would need to be federally registered as a Short Barreled Rifle (SBR) which you can't have in NJ. If you are getting or making a Non-NFA Other, the barrel needs to be at least 12" in order to have an OAL (Over All Length) of 26". Actually there are ways to have a barrel as short as 10" on an Other, but see the Non-NFA Other Build thread for that. That said, in general you would want a short barrel for home defense so you can easily maneuver inside your doorways and hallways and stuff. It also makes for a lighter gun to move around with or hold for a while. Non-NFA Others are shorter than Post Ban Rifles, and therefore a good option for home defense. For hunting or longer range shooting, you would want a longer barrel on your rifle. Most rounds have optimal barrel lengths. Too short and you may not get the rated velocity and the gun powder may not fully burn inside the barrel causing a big flash and extra noise. Too short and it also may not spin the round enough to stabilize it if it's the wrong Twist Rate for that bullet. 12) CAN I HAVE A MUZZLE DEVICE? Yes. Rifles must have them pinned and welded properly but you cannot use a flash suppressor. Most gun stores have a Gun Smith that can pin and weld (around $50-150 for the service). If you are ordering a new rifle, you can usually have them pin and weld it at a minimal cost. You could use a 14.5" barrel and pin and weld a muzzle device (assuming its over 1.5" long) in order to get a legal barrel length of over 16" for your rifle. "Non-NFA Others" are not considered rifles so you can have threaded barrels with muzzle devices including flash suppressors and they do not need to be pinned and welded. However if you want a barrel length shorter than 12" one way to do it is to pin and weld a muzzle device in order for the barrel to end up being greater than 12" in order to get your OAL (Over All Length) of at least 26". See the Non-NFA Other Build thread. See here for muzzle device types: Muzzle Devices (guntweaks.com) 13) WHAT IS TWIST RATE? Twist Rate is how many inches for the rifling to complete a circle. Rifling is what spins the bullet to stabilize it and make it more accurate and precise. Kinda like throwing a football with a spiral. A 1:8 twist rate would spin the bullet once every 8 inches. Twist rate effects which weight bullets are ideal for your rifle. See here for more info. Barrel Twist Rate - Selecting Bullet Weight For Your AR (wideners.com) 14) WHAT IS BULLET GRAINS (gr)? Bullets are specified by their weight in Grains (gr). This is the weight of the actual projectile, not the gun powder. Typical 5.56/.223 weights are 55-77gr. Generally speaking, the heavier and faster a bullet is the harder it hits and the more damage it does. Also some hollow point bullets will fail to expand (mushroom) if they are not heavy enough or fast enough. The twist rate and length of your barrel will effect which bullet weight is optimal for your gun. See above. 15) WHAT IS A GOOD DEFENSIVE ROUND? Boat Tail Hollow Points (BTHP ot HPBT) are good for defensive rounds for rifles. Much like hollow point hand gun ammo, they are designed to expand upon impact, doing maximum damage and also limiting over penetration. Note that Open Tip Match (OTM) looks like Hollow Point, but does not perform the same and is not recommended. Speer makes a very good soft nose bullet (called Gold Dots) that expands like a hollow point. You really should spend the extra money on a few boxes of high end rounds designed specifically to be defense rounds. Your life may depend on it. You should also shoot a few of these rounds at the range to see how they do in your AR as well as how they differ than your practice ammo. Round selection is actually really important to find one that works for your needs and works well in your gun. Here is some info on how to select the best ammo for your needs. Best 5.56 and .223 Ammo for Your AR-15 and Other Guns [2021 Review] (gunpros.com) 16) ARE HOLLOW POINTS LEGAL IN NJ? Yes. They are legal to own and posses in your house, at your business, and at the range. You may also transport them directly to and from those places. Much like traveling with a handgun, you cannot just leave hollow points in your car and go wherever you like. You cannot use true hollow points for conceal carry. See Q13 here: Firearms Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ's) | New Jersey State Police (nj.gov) 17) WHAT IS M193 and M855/GREENTIP AMMO? These are military rounds chambered in 5.56 NATO. M193 is 55gr FMJ (Full Metal Jacket) ball ammo. M855 replaced M193 in order to penetrate Russian helmets. True M855 Green Tip is 62gr 5.56 FMJ with a steel tip. The tips were painted green to be able to easily tell the difference. M855 are not technically penetrator rounds, however they are usually banned from indoor ranges as they can damage the backstop. Both are legal to own and use. More info here: M855 vs. M193 – Which One is Best? - 80 Percent Arms 18) ARE TRACER/INCINDIARY ROUNDS LEGAL IN NJ? Nope. 19) CAN I BUY AMMO ONLINE? Yes. You need an NJ FID in order to buy Ammo. You can buy ammo online and have it sent to your house but you usually need to send the online store a scanned copy of your FID card (and sometimes also your driver's license). Check the store's FAQ for more info on how they want you to do that. You can find the cheapest prices on ammo at AmmoSeek.com. 20) CAN I BUILD MY OWN AR-15? Yes. It's actually very easy. The very first one I owned, I built in about 45 minutes watching YouTube videos. The Lower (the part that has the trigger) is the part that is considered the gun and must be sent to an FFL and registered. An FFL is usually a licensed gun store or dealer (see above). You can buy complete Upper Kit and a Lower (or you can do a Lower Kit and a Complete Upper, or a Complete Upper and Complete Lower) from places like Palmetto State Armory, but you can also piecemeal it together. Building your own AR-15 is a great way to understand how it works, learn how to take it apart, and quickly fix most malfunctions. It is also usually cheaper (and sometimes quicker) than buying/ordering a pre-built one and you can customize it to exactly how you want it. 21) WHAT IS MILSPEC? Basically it just means it meets the military specifications. Your parts should meet or exceed Milspec. More info: What Makes an AR 15 Mil Spec? - RailScales LLC 22) WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN Parkerized, Nitrade, Nickel Boron, Cerakote, etc? There are different coatings that you can get for your AR-15 parts. Parkerized is the Milspec black coating. Nitrade black coating is decent step up. Cerakote is an advanced coating that allows for cool colors and designs. Nickel Boron (NiBo) is an advanced coating for your BCG (Bolt Carrier Group). NiBo makes your BCG a lot easier to clean, require less oil, and lasts longer. See here for more info: The Ultimate Guide to Gun Coatings - Omaha Outdoors 23) WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN AN AR-15 AND AR-10? The AR-10 is the older but bigger version of the AR-15. It can fire bigger cartridges than the AR-15. Common AR-10 calibers are .308 Win/7.62 NATO, 6.5 Creedmoor, .243 Win, .300 Win Mag, .338 Federal, .500 Auto Max, etc. More info: AR10 vs AR15: Which is Better for You? The BIG Comparison 2019 » GearHunts AR-10 on top, AR-15 on bottom (note the size/width of the magazines) 24) WHAT IS AN AR PISTOL? These are AR-15's that are under 26" OAL (Over All Length). Because they are under 26" they are considered pistols. Because they are pistols, they cannot have a stock, however they can use a "Pistol Brace" as of now (this may change in a few months). AR Pistols are illegal in NJ I believe. AR Pistol 25) WHAT IS A CARBINE? Carbine usually refers to shorter rifles, usually 16" barrel and under. The only way to have one shorter than 16" barrel in NJ is with a Non-NFA Other. More info on Carbines: Rifle vs. Carbine - What's the Difference?: What's the Difference? - TargetBarn.com 26) WHAT IS A PCC? Pistol Caliber Carbine (PCC). This is typically an AR style gun that uses common pistol caliber ammo like 9mm, 10mm, .45ACP, etc. Most use Glock pistol magazines (some use Colt). This is technically not an AR-15 since it would not use a traditional AR-15 upper or lower, but could use other AR parts. 27) ARE BINARY TRIGGERS LEGAL IN NJ? Nope. 28) ARE SUPPRESSORS LEGAL IN NJ? Nope. 29) WHAT'S THE LARGEST MAGAZINE I CAN HAVE? You can only have 10 round (or less) magazines in NJ. Most are small, however there are full size mags that are restricted to 10rds that are legal. These bigger ones are better for training with than the smaller magazines as they are easier to remove/insert as well as store in a mag carrier on a battle belt for training or competitive shooting. 30) WHAT BASIC ACCESSORIES SHOULD I GET FOR MY AR-15? You will need something to aim it with. Red Dot Sights (RDS) allow you to quickly and easily acquire your target and keep both eyes open and focus on your target. Red Dots are electronic and therefore can fail (however batteries usually last for thousands of hours) so a set of Backup Iron Sights (BUIS) is a good idea. If you can't get Iron Sights that allow you to co-witness with your Red Dot, you can also get Offset Sights. For home defense, you really should have a flashlight. You need to always positivity identify your target and know what is in front and beyond it and you can't do that at night without a light. I prefer flashlight laser combos. Laser is an easy to acquire backup aiming device and also can be used to help sight in your RDS. Green laser work better for longer range and daytime use than Red. Flashlights with an external switch are ideal for a long guns so that you can mount the switch within easy reach without having to move your hands to access it. You should also consider a sling. All of these things will require training to use and be comfortable with. If you plan on shooting long distance you will need a decent scope or RDS magnifier. Note that a scope is not needed or advised for indoor home defense. In fact for indoor home defense use you will likely want to keep it light and simple. There is a TON of videos and info online on what to use and how to use it. Take the time to research and train. If you have kids around your house, you should also get a gun safe. More info in defensive AR setup: Defensive AR-15 Setup for Regular People - Lucky Gunner Lounge 31) WHERE CAN I SHOOT/TRAIN IN NJ? There are many gun stores with indoor ranges with 25-40 yard ranges. There are also local gun clubs that have outdoor ranges. If you get your hunting license (or go with someone who has theirs) you can go to the State's outdoor practice ranges. Most of these ranges will have training programs. Training is highly recommended to become safe, comfortable, and proficient with each of your firearms. 32) HOW DO I TRANSPORT MY FIREARMS? Unloaded in a locked container, separate from the ammo, locked in the trunk is best. Handguns may only go directly to/from your house, business, or range, with minimal required deviation. Technically your FID Card would allow you to have your long gun in the car at all times, but totally not recommended. See Q6 here: Firearms Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ's) | New Jersey State Police (nj.gov) 33) CAN I TRAIN IN MY HOUSE? Yes. You can (and should) safely practice loading/unloading and dry firing with snap caps. You can also practice, grip, stance, aiming and trigger pull with a laser trainer round or Mantis Blackbeard system. You can also practice with your sling at home. You should also practice retrieving your gun in a stored state and getting it ready for action quickly in a time of need. Keep all live ammo separate and locked up while training and make sure that you will be uninterrupted and in a safe place to do so. More info: Safe and Effective Dry-Fire Training at Home [Guide] - Pew Pew Tactical 34) WHAT ARE THE 4 RULES OF FIREARM SAFETY? 1) Treat All Guns as Though They are Loaded 2) Always Keep Firearm Pointed in a Safe direction 3) Keep Your Finger Off the Trigger until You are Ready to Shoot 4) Always Be Sure of Your Target and What’s Beyond It 4 Primary Rules of Firearm Safety • NSSF Please note, I am not a lawyer, none of this is to be construed as legal advice. It may not be 100% accurate or complete. The laws or enforcement may change at any time. You need to do your own research. Seek professional help and training. Talk to your lawyer. Talk to your doctor. etc etc etc.

Ammo prices are going up. Was able to get some decent .223 for around $0.50 last month. Now $0.69.

How do you propose to prep for the Great Reset? What actions should be taken?