GRIZ

Not sure didn't see it.

No ray it makes you extremely knowledgable.

I realize what you're saying. I had to explain to someone who Elmer Keith and Skeeter Skelton were. I guess that shows my age but this is a case where Google is your friend.

A wadcutter is a very good SD bullet for the following reasons: 1. The bullet is already in an efficient shape. A hollowpoint needs to expand a bit before it gets in the shape of a wadcutter. 2. Even at target velocities (725-750 fps) it will penetrate more than 14" of ballistic gel. 3. If you're using a lightweight J frame it is much easier to control than a +P round giving you greater accuracy and quick recovery for follow up shots. The same goes for someone who may be recoil sensitive in a larger revolver. The problem with a wadcutter is not the shape but a higher velocity would make it much better. Back in the 70s I remember manufacturers offered a target load at about 750 fps and a standard load at 850 fps or so with a wadcutter bullet. If you want to crank up the velocity you need to use a flat base wadcutter as a HBWC can blow out the base leaving a ring of lead in your barrel. Reversing a HBWC for massive expansion (moreso with a swaged bullet) can work. When it works it works well as Old School related. The problem is if one side of the nose of the bullet hits something hard (button, belt buckle, bone etc) on the way in, it can collapse that big hollowpoint. At the very least you wind up making the bullet a solid and at the worst cause the bullet to tumble early limiting penetration. These are some of the results I got when I tested reversed HBWC back in the 70s and mirrored results Jim Cirillo got. Jim was always looking for the "magic bullet". Most of the designs he came up with looked like...a wadcutter. Some of these had a cup point to give a bit of expansion. He tried (at least once that I know of) a flat nosed wadcutter in a 45 ACP in a 1911 single loaded directly into the chamber backed up by IIRC Super Vel hollowpoints in the magazine while working in NYPD's Stakeout Squad. I'll use factory wadcutters in a J frame as a SD round. Are there better things out there? Maybe, maybe not.

I know Glenn very well. I'll let him know how much help he was to ypu.

This just goes to show "premium" ammo is more manufacturers hype than quality.

I like Ly thman as they give data on bullets from all manufacturers. They are also IMO the most complete as far as data using lead bullets as 95% of my pistol caliber reloading is with lead bullets.

Most of my mags are Colt or GI and you can't take the baseplate off any of them. I use Ian's method except I don't load rounds to push down the baseplate I just push it down with a cleaning rod as I was taught in the Army. I'll have to try Ian's.

Everyone needs a 4" 357 revolver, a handgun you can do just about anything with. There is a wide power range of ammo available from 38 wadcutters to full magnums. No other revolver affords you all these options, availability, and reasonable cost. If you learn to shoot a DA revolver well everything else is easy. Take your pick of Ruger, S&W, or Taurus. I have at least one of each. I like stainless as the most durable. Colts are okay but none are new and there is no factory service.

I'm a Vietnam Vet. I don't think, from my experience, being drafted or non-officer has anything to do with getting or not getting a Silver Star. However, if your father were a senior NCO or say a captain or above he probably would have gotten a Distinguished Service Cross, Air Force Cross, or Navy Cross depending on which branch he served in.

Keep in mind this is NJ and you would need a P2P to get them back just as you do when you leave a handgun on consignment.

My wife and I got a rescue terrier (?) mix that sheds constantly. She has white fur which shows up well on our grey carpet. Using an Oreck we could still find her fur. I bought the older Dyson (animal without the ball) several years ago. IIRC it cost about $400 at the PX then about $600 in the stores. Did the vacuum with the Oreck followed by the Dyson which made it seem the Oreck didn't pick up anything. There is nothing better to clean up after our furry friends than the Dyson Animal.

Smith or Ruger. Take your pick of frame size and DA or SA. NAA is more of a novelty item.

I'm not saying you haven't had any problems with it under the conditions you specify but have you worn it in true combat conditions? Worn it out in the freezing rain so long that the water that entered the action on your shotgun froze rendering you shotgun useless. Where you havd had literally a couple of inches of mud on your gun side from wear you tripped. Many are critical of very simple designs used my the military and there is something better in the civilian world. the difference is the military design always works. I'm not trying to bust your chops just trying to point out that anything mechanical will fail at some point due to wear or the environment.

Thanx for posting it that way Maks some may have formed the wrong impression.

No mods to almost all my guns. I find it entertaining to see people who think you need a $3000 1911 or a "Performance Center" revolver to defend yourself. My stock as stink 1911 or S&W Model 10 will do just as good a job.

KpdPipes is correct with the SBR. It came either semi or FA. We had semis where I worked and I have shot the FA version.

I've also "mall-ninja tested" my holsters in the dirt and mud (while playing airsoft) and have not had any issues with the release button becoming stuck or non-functional. The button release has always been the reason for my dislike of Serpa holsters. I'll bet I can get that button to malfunction in a realistic test. To me, a Serpa Holster is just like a 2 lb trigger pull on a gun. In it of itself it is not bad, but to certain people it makes it exponentially less safe. Maks, I have to argue this one with you. A 2lb trigger is a horrible idea. Unless we're talking a competition gun. I've been around guns for over 45 years, been an instructor for over 30, and have taught people. Being the trigger is what makes guns shoot I guess I'm one of those certain people that does feel its exponentially unsafe outside of certain parameters.

This is a bad idea as a practice, good to know if that's all there is at hand. What's in wasp spray? I don't know but there may be something that can cause permanent damage. If you have to spray a BG and cause some permanent damage, you stand a good chance of losing a civil suit if the guy was unarmed. "Yes my client was trying to snatch Mr s SpacemanFry's wallet but he meant him no harm. Just wanted his wallet. Mr SpacemanFry sprayed my client's face with WASP SPRAY, a pesticide like Agent Orange or DDT. This product is not completely harmless. The manufacturer says so, read the MSDS: http://www.mta.ca/administration/facilities/safety/msds/Carpentry/Raid%20Wasp%20&%20Hornet%202009.pdf Ladies and gentlemen of the jury, the defendant could have used a 3/4 oz pepper spray which has been tested on humans extensively with almost no chance of permanent injury. He also used an 18 oz can this is like a 100 rd magazine on an evil assault weapon". If you're planning use defense stuff for defense and you can save yourself a lot of headaches

Keep in mind there is no way you can run a gun through NCIC "just to see" if its stolen. I don't know if NJSP or a local PD run serial numbers when they get their copy of the P2P for a handgun. The P2P and COE give you pretty good protection proving you thought everything was legit.

I third that motion.

Call Ruger Customer Service. I lost one for my P90 called them and they sent me 4 free. Took 3-4 days.

I would think it would be easier, cheaper, and a better fit to send the gun to Ruger and have one fitted than have a smith try to make the cylinder you have work.

Pachmyr makes a beefier grip for the K frame.

You have to re-certify yourself with CMP every 2-3 years IIRC. You need to meet the same criteria to buy ammo as you do for a rifle.