raz-0

Glad to see they still have it. There site was behaving weird when I went there for the link. Half the stuff that is there now was missing. Perhaps they were doing some site maintenance.

Guppy brass is usually form a glock. Check for cracking in the case web. With the use of an egw u-die, it's safe unless you see nay damage to the case web form the inside. Glocks also drag their strikers (as do M&Ps). But that doesn't look like either of them glocks leave a square bulge on the primer, and M&Ps have a distinctive teardrop smear. Heck, the dimple looks fat for a 1911/2011 slide with a 38 super firing pin too. So yeah, a bit odd. What 9s have a fat firing pin other than a a 1911/2011 setup with someone using a .45 firing pin? Not glock, not M&P, not CZ-75 or clones.

If I'm shooting steel for fun? Fill em. If I'm shooting practice drills like draw, 2 on near target, reload 2 on far target repeat? Fill em, I want as much practice as possible. If I'm doing practice for production or l-10 that capacity matters for getting in the right kind of practice? 10 rounds. Rifle? Either fill em or single round at a time. Depends on what I'm doing. Mostly fill em.

Ok, per the OP's request for comments on the individual components. I'll only bother with thing I think you should avoid or can get a better value on. As of late del-ton is selling mossberg barrels. They claaim their bolt is MPI and HPT tested, so assuming it's true the only question is how well staked they are. From the sound of the comments, it might need an o-ring fix if you get FTEs. I'd skip the troy medievel break in favor of any number of other brakes. It is not terribly effective. If you must have a muzzle device you can poke someone with, I recommend the rainier arms mini compensator. It uses a baffle design that is common among more effecgtive comps and is pointy and within $5 of the troy price. http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=2841 For straight out budget ansd effectiveness, I'd get the nordic components tactical comp. http://shop.nordiccomp.com/Nordic-Components-Tactical-Compensator-223-Black-Oxide-CMP-TC-22-BK.htm I wouldn't buy an accessory rail that just attaches like a standard fore end. But that's me. I think free float tubes are worth the money, but a budget is a budget. It's pretty easy to deflect POI without one. If I were going to jsut use handguards, I'd probably goe with the magpul MOE ones for $30. I personally like the ARFX. I use the magpul MIAD with the large insert, so the moe is probably GTG unless you have small hands. If you want light and cheap, I recommend the primary arms micro dot bundle. https://www.primaryarms.com/Primary_Arms_Micro_Dot_With_Removable_Base_p/md06lhmbundle.htm Order a 3x magnifier with it and they discount. Dunno what the mount is like anymore, they used to have an american defense bundle which is a good mount, but that's not there anymore. BUIS, the magpul current gen sights are nice and the most affordable out there. Nicest flip out mount I have seen is larues. I haven't seen any as nice for less money. The american defense swing out is $130, but I ahven't met it in person, and I'm not sure how robust their deisgn is. I also haven't seen any variable power magnifiers for red dots. IF you mean something between 5x to 7x rather than a 3x, then primary arms has them too. Their optical quality is ok. The grip pod thing is more of a gimmick than a really useful bipod. Especially without a free floated fore end. I'd save the money and focus on technique.

Same here. It doesn't sound like you have unrealistic expectations of what you are building. A light-ish 16" AR with a dot is very handy, fun, and reasonably usable from 0-300 yards for something resembling accuracy. It's basically what I am running. The ugn is probably capable of more, but the red dot is the limiting factor for more than minute of bad guy accuracy past 300.

One would assume they have a welder. You can buy a crappy mig welder at harbor freight for $95. Its not like this use remotely approaches real welding in terms of worrying about duty cycles/durability/etc. , so the $90 welder will probably do.

MY point was mostly that this feature is not on all android devices I've found several rants on the lack of it with regards to multiple android devices while trying to figure out if I was just missing something. Without the ability to try it out on a device before buying it, it will be hard to determine if it is on the android device you want. If that's a killer feature for you, then yes, choose android. However, it is not a killer feature for all. For me a killer feature is the ability to leave wi-fi on all the time. Mostly because 3g data speeds are sub-par for on-line activities, especially where I work (the towers are heavily congested). I'm stuck with AT&T and I need wi-fi to be efficient and effective on a device. For the 3gs vs 4s, it appears to be more efficient, but less sensitive, which results in a net equivalent on battery life.

That's not what I would refer to as mass delete. More like empty folder. Semantics though, I understand why it is a desirable feature. How are you getting that on android? I didn't see it on my device anyplace. 3rd party app? Someone did a nice chart of some of what I am talking about with problems caused by the android OS revision lottery you play with devices. http://theunderstatement.com/post/11982112928/android-orphans-visualizing-a-sad-history-of-support The best version of android on the best piece of hardware is pretty nice at this point. It's a crap shoot trying to find it though as the marketing literature is often less than helpful at determining os revision. Then you have to factor in skinning and hiding of stuff by the handset manufacturer and carrier. To also add ot my point, in previous version of android, they don't know about certain Thawte root certificates for SSL. So they pop up a securtity warning. If you want to avoid this, you have to set the device to accept all certs. Which is bad. So for gingerbread they fixed it. No, no, not by adding the thawte root cert, by eliminating your ability to accept all certs. LOTS of people are pissed by this. Android as an OS is getting close to being ready for prime-time, I think they finally hammered out the app store. However, they need to wrangle the ecosystem and make it possible to get a more homogeneous experience across platforms.

Basic interpretation of what you can shoot. If the broken shards can cut up your hand, you aren't allowed to shoot it. if it just makes a mess, you can shoot it if you clean it up. Except clay pigeons. Not sure why. I know we have more rules about cleaning them up due to the wetlands (not sure if hte issue is PH, the pitch in them, or just water runoff issues due to their non-permiability). We have to clean them up form the shotgun range, but went forever without doing it and the shotgunners are still making a stink over it. I don't see why it would be a issue if you cleaned your own up. Maybe the cognitive dissonance of shooting a shotgun target with something other than a shotgun bothers someone's sensibilities. R3egardless, it is against the rules.

there have been lots of people who got decent results with the lemishine mix and no media. Detergent+agitation will do a lot. detergent+agitation+media does more. PErsonally, I HATE waiting for wet brass to dry, so abandoned my experiments with wet media cleaning.

Well not that particular site, I have gotten in on a free preview of a more well known pay site. I wouldn't pay for what is there. As for the load data site, I've only run int o their pay wall twice in my search for some load data. They aren't getting my money. It's clear that 99% of their stuff is freely available elsewhere.

I hope you had them on hand rather than buying them. Any idea what kind of light output on them? Might be able to dig up some cheap unregulated LED stick up lights.

IS 5.56 at 500 yards enough to make someone take cover? Hell yeah. I wouldn't want to get shot by it. Hence my "legitimately scare people" description of that level of accuracy. As far as to lethality, the velocity at that range is WAY outside the envelope of most of the bullet design. Some light varmint rounds might still expand, but anything that won't grenade in 6 inches of flesh up close won't do well at the velocities at 500 yards. M855 is particularly subject to these issues as it really tends to stay in one piece unless it is above a certain velocity. It's accuracy is also pretty poor. It's why the military is replacing it with something faster and more accurate, and getting clever with the penetrator design to expand the range of velocities at which it separates into at least two parts of significant size. You seem to have a grasp of the basic accuracy potential of the rifle at 500 so you will probably be happy. When most people want "accuracy" at that range, they aren't talking 8 moa accuracy. But FYI, take a measuring tape to yourself. I'm 6'7" and not all leggy. I still fall short of a 20"x40" torso. As for mid-sized game with a 40"x20" neck? What. a moose? .223 at optimal range isn't going to work well on a moose unless you shoot them in the brain, or hit between two vertebrae for a perfect spinal cord shot. Hit any bone and you might not even piss the moose off. Heck, even a heart shot would probably leave you chasing the thing for a good distance.

I think we have hit the point where the general public, regardless of their politics and world view, are reaching the same conclusion to different degrees. That the government isn't your friend and isn't going to help you. At best they are going to leave you hanging, at worst they will make you into a convenient criminal rather than a complicated victim, and for the majority in between those two outcomes, will use the force of law to slowly bleed you dry.

Hmm lets see. the bolt doesn't slide in there, the bolt carrier slides in there. Notice that the bolt carrier has rails. Notice that the buffer tube does not. Notice that the upper receiver does. This all happens like that because you want the bolt carrier to basically protrude into the middle without yawing. If it yawed, you would would do nice things like sheering off the buffer retaining pin as well as probably bind up in the buffer. After 1500 rounds of wolf without cleaning my gun I cna safely say the rear end of my bolt carrier was not dirty. The bolt, the front end of the carrier where all the gas handling actually occurs, and the barrel extension were nasty, but the buffer was fine. to apply, you put a gob of grease on your thumb and index finger. Pinch the spring, and twist it through your greasy pinched fingers. It leaves a thin film (which is why you want something with a high film shear strength). Also, I have been doing this for years and thousands and thousands of rounds, it does not leave gobs of grease anywhere, nor doyou get carbon buildup in your uffer tube with or without grease. If you do, something is really wrong with your AR.

Length 7.25". L.O.P.=10.45" (without recoil pad ) Weight: 265g ( 9.7 oz)

if the LEDs are direct drive off the current with a resistor balance, they are probably ok. If it has a regulating circuit that uses PWM, then you will probably induce timing errors. Oddly enough being cheap is probably the best option.

FYI, your water jug lookss like a decent solution. Be careful when building your PVC containers if you actually get around to that. You want your brass to fall early like your jug does. If you put paddles in it that move that height up, you can actually peen the mouth of your cases, which can then gouge your bullets when you reload. I know at least one person who decided to clean their brass in a cement mixer and trashed many thousands of rounds of brass in one shot.

DEpending on the powder, yes. Most fast powders are pretty sensitive to case volume changes, some more than others. For example, with titegroup, if your gun isn't really heavy,somewhere around 4.5gr-4.6gr at 1.125 with a 180gr bullet, it starts to have this extra smack into the palm of your hand like you are whacking something hard with a hammer. That's my best description. But suffice it to say it is a bit of a twangy feeling in the tendons that let you know if you shoot that load in high volume, you'll be working on some form of tendinitis. At 1.2 if you are daring you can make a major load using clays. At the usual book length of 1.125, you can blow up your gun using the exact same charge. Although case head separation is probably more common. Something slower and less position dependent like universal clays? You'll see some velocity differences, but it won't really feel that much different going from 1.125-1.175 (at least that's the range I tried). Also, some powders get much louder the closer you get to a compressed load. Which can dramatically change the perceived recoil. Long loads in a 2011 gloss over some QC issues in a build, helps play the role of the stabilizing portion of the follower you shaved off for that 20-21 round reloadable mag, and for most powders let you get major power factor with a softer feeling recoil. Since most of the most experienced folks regarding the platform and caliber combination are trying to work up a load that runs across all their 2011s and is as gamey as possible, it's sort of become common (if not actually true) wisdom that they don't work with shorter loads.

That and my gun was malfunctioning . Running out of ammo on stage 2 didn't help either.

Man your an optimist. I'm not sure 30 minutes with a trash can and a vacuum would make a whit of difference to the pile of very popular gear in the middle of the store.

That's 100% the opposite of my experience with them. I'd give them high CS marks. Worst thing about their CS is that during busy parts of the year for the company you may get less experienced temps, and if they are moving a lot of product, you may have to wait for parts. I know many people who have had good CS experiences with them. From my general experience, people seem happiest with S&W, Springfield armory runs a close second, then there's pretty much most of the other name brands with no clear winner although ruger might take a grumpy third, with H&K bringing up the overtly hostile tail end. H&K makes the DMV seem warm, welcoming, and speedy.

I use slide glide mostly, but any grease that stays greasy in the cold rather than chunking up while still having a decent sheer film strength. Slide glide has a very high shear film strength. So far, the longest lasting application I have is about 3 years. The limiting factor is usually me taking apart the gun, at which time I usually wipe it down so it's less nasty hndling the spring and reapply before assembly.

That bit there... not gonna happen. First off, .223/5.56 is a very marginal round for shooting at 500 yards from an accuracy perspective. To get the best of a marginal round for those ranges, you really want a 24 inch barrel and probably 77gr SMK heads. That'll get you the highest velocity with highest sectional density in a cartridge that will still function from an AR-15 magazine. That's not a CQB setup, but you can hit a reasonably sized target out to 600 with it, and the odds of that load functioning usable in terms of wounding is probably out ot about 400 yards. I'd have to plug in an actual load to a ballistic calculator. Then you have wound ballistics. At 500 yards, you are going to lose enough velocity that you really aren't going to find much that is within it's optimum velocity range to wound effectively. Out of a 16" barrel, you definitely are not. Without going to having one type of bullet for "close" and one for "far", about the best you can do is get a useful effective envelope from 0-350-ish yards out of a 16" barrel. but you aren't going ot buy that ammo off the shelf as it will be a squat 60gr bonded soft point loaded to 5.56 pressures. Loading it yourself, be prepared to shell out close to $0.70 per round. For putting holes in paper, the math changes a bit. Yes, the marines qualify to 500 yards... with the b-mod target. Which if my google fu has yielded accurate results, the top scoring zone is 40" x 20". Which is "legitimately scare people, but not really have a guarantee of hitting anything" accuracy. That's the 5 point area, you can still score hitting basically somewhere in a 72x72" area. Also, are you going to be able to hit jack at 500 yards without an optic? Cause that right there is about 2lbs of mass on the gun.

Use a light grease on the buffer spring. No more twang. I have a 6 year old lower, the foam has held up fine. A carbine length buffer tube with a 5oz carbine buffer should be close to rifle feel. Probably a little harsher on going into battery, so it might make the muzzle dip then. *shrug*