Col. Mortimer

I was wondering where the GECO empty cases came from. I was tossing them as I did not know the brand. I wil try to remember how they reload.

I was the tall guy that spoke to "Ranger" Rick. You must have been the blond guy that said hello. I was all the way over on the left with Old School. I was shooting the Longslide.

Just in case, here are the photos of the primer follow with the case. I used a belled case since it fits over the follower easier.

Don't forget the black plate under the primer bar. All you want to do is polish it and remove any burrs. I used the counter top on my reloading bench. Old School has a good point. Occasionally inspect the primer bar for nicks, especially if the primers are popping out of the primer cup or turning sideways.

In my short experience I have learned a fewof things about what you need to know and the quirks of the 550B. I find these things out or I have a problem and my friend usually says "Oh yeah. I forgot about that." Here they are and I hope they help other newbies. Feel free to add some. - The cotter pin for the Spent Primer Catcher Chute (SPCC) causes the SPCC to bind and jam it in the closed position. That is to say the top is closed and will not catch the spent primers. They shoot all over the place and like to land in the bin with your empty brass. Luckily, I spotted the spent primer in one of my empties. The thing to do is replace the cotter pin with a piece of wire. The SPCC will move freely. - Check the Primer Punch for any debris. The Primer Punch presses the primer into the case. Not to be confused with the Depriming Pin. Any small piece of tumbling media, grain of powder or whatever will dent the primer. I keep a cotton swab nearby and wipe it off frequently. I have found that pressing the handle forward raises the punch which allows better cleaning. - When using calibers with small primers, file a bevel the tip of the decapping pin ( this shape \_/ ). This prevents the spent primer from getting stuck on the pin and going back into the shell. This problem occurs with small CCI primers. It must have to do with the size of the hole in the avil being just the right size to allow the pin fit into it tightly. - Watch out for Brown Bear brass. It is steel cased ammo that is brass plated. It looks like regular brass but it is Berdan primed. You can tell by looking into the mouth of the case. You will see two flash holes rather than one in the center. - Check the headstamps of all cases. Look for military brass which usually has a two or four digit date and an an "X" in an "O". Military brass is crimped. Without removing the crimp, the primer will not fit. You can buyer primer pocket reamer but it's not worth the effect, scrap it. I also check for brands I don't like: > Sellier & Bellot has tight primer pockets. I either scrap it or put them in a pile and load them together. The primer will go in, but you have to really push. > MFS, the primers don't always come out easily. > A-Merc, poor quality brass. Scrap it. > Any off brands I am not sure about. Headstamps are *I*, NUY, TZZ. > Check for any cracked brass > Carefully check nickel plated brass. It tends to flake and crack. > Check for any flaws. When it doubt, scrap it. - Put a 45ACP case on the primer follower. It helps the last few primers into the primer bar. - Use 800 grit sandpaper on the plate under the primer bar. Put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rub the plate gently around. You want to get it smooth. I had primers popping out because the primer bar moved erratically. - Never force the handle! If it moves with more resistance than normal, something is wrong. It could be a Berdan case, stuck primer in a case, a primer caught in the spent primer chute or a 45ACP case with a small pistol primmer (thank you Federal). - Before placing the bullet on top of a charged case, check the powder charge to be sure it is properly charged. There should the proper level and not none or a double. - Always check your powder charge weight before you start a loading session. Mic and case gauge the first few rounds. If I remember any more I will update the list. Add any I forgot or don't know.

I did not get there until noon but Old School was there. We had a good turnout and a good day. They are now shooting with sub-carbines (CX4 Storm, Kel-Tec, Hi-Point) in 9mm, 40S&W and 45ACP. I have to bring mine next time.

The pistol range will be closed during the event, 8:30AM to 3:00PM, so you might as well come join us.

????? Forecast is for perfect weather all weekend.

How soon are you going to place the order. I am good right now be will need more soon. Have you contacted our mutual friends to see if they need anything?

I see you at USPSA matches all the time so I didn't miss you. ;-) On the bright side, some of these posts are too funny.

Welcome follow Morris County resident!

You are correct. Cherry Ridge had a bad fire a few years ago that was caused by sparks from steel ammo. That's why they have the water pipes running up the ridge, the fire extinguishers and call boxes. By now, I am sure those pipes are full of holes.

As said before, the crimp just removes the bell. If you use jacketed bullets, you will not need the Lee Factory Crimp die. To adjust the crimp die, put a round with a seated bullet in the crimping station. Move the ram up and screw the die down until it touches the round. Move the ram down and screw the die down 1/8 turn. Move the ram all the way up. Repeat the process until the bell is gone. If you mic the diameter you should be between 0.376" and 0378". The SAAMI max is 0.380". If the diameter is too wide, the round won't chamber. If you crimp too much, you will re-size the bullet and it will loosen and you will get set back which is bad. I know it is counter intuitive that a tighter crimp will cause a loose bullet but when you crimp too much, the bullet is squeezed smaller and stays small. The case gets smaller but has memory and flexes out.

I'm no seasoned vet but it depends on what you what to do. If you are just plinking paper, you're good. But, it you are looking to compete in IDPA or USPSA you want to find an accurate load with the most manageable recoil. Here are some variables to try: - Different powders, WSF comes to mind - Different overall lengths - Different charges, just because if cycles doesn't mean it's the most accurate load - Different brands, weights and types of bullets. This is for starters. I am sure there are more.

There is no registration. Just get on the waiting list and pay your $3.00. I don't know if there will be a rimfire match. It depends on how many people bring their rimfires. We usually have one. The rimfire matches use 1x3's so you need four or five mags. Take your time and get good hits.

To receive your Savings: 1. Add regular price, in-stock products to your cart totaling: $50 or more - Use Promotion Code 941174 2. Enter the promotion code into the box titled, "Promotion Code" on the shopping cart page. 3. See the discount applied on the Confirmation page near the end of the checkout. Offer expires at 11:59 p.m. CT on April 24, 2011. Hurry! Special Reminders & Exclusions: • Can only be used once. • Sale, clearance, out-of-stock and Nightforce products do not count towards the total. • Gift certificates do not count towards the total. • Can only be used on midwayusa.com. No phone, fax or mail orders please. • Cannot be used with any other promotion code, or combined with Dealer, Birthday or Special pricing.

I would trust that USA ammo has tested these rounds with whatever powder they used and the OAL to determine they are within SAAMI specs. So yes, the USA ammo is safe.

The Alliant site shows a minimum OAL of 1.125" and a max charge of 4.7g. Being under the minimum OAL can cause dramatic increases in pressure. Therefore, I recommend you do not shoot these rounds, especially as you are also above the max load. Lesson learned: 1.) Calipers and a scale are must have items before you start reloading. 2.) Always record the loading data on all ammo you load. When it comes to reloading "I think" is no way to start an answer. 3) Never exceed max loads 4) Never go below minimum OAL This may be an expensive lesson or a long time pulling bullets but it beats blowing up your gun. It is not my intention to beat you up but I don't want to see you hurt yourself. There is a reloading clinic at Shongum Range in Mansfield. You will learn a lot if you go. It is on the range and the NJgunforum.com calendars. Be Safe, The Col.

Welcome! The guns laws of NJ are complex but the overall theme is you are guilty until you prove otherwise. The scarely part is the police do not know or understand the laws.

Uhhh....I think you should look at Cowboy Action Shooting...yeah. BTW - it is not legal as it does not block access to the trigger.

Welcome fellow geeser. You should take the NRA Basic Pistol class. It is very informative and you get to shoot lots of different guns. By the way, stop crying - it only 99 years.

9mm is popular in Production division as there is only Minor Power Factor. 40S&W and 45ACP is popular for major power factor, 38 Super and 9mm Major to a lesser degree. The most important piece of equipment is a holster that prevents access to the trigger. The second is a velcro inner and outer belts. After that, it's personal preference and whatever shaves time off a stage. You should also consider a good quality set of electronic ear muffs.

I've got his picture if you want it. This is why I take pictures.

It's all about figuring out the stage and shooting it as fast as you can while getting a good score. You are engaging multiple targets and different target types (paper and steel) so there is no such thing as "closest to the pin". It is measured by a time vs. points system. Check out these videos from the last match: http://njgunforums.com/forum/index.php?/topic/23160-uspsa-match-at-shongum-range/page__st__40

I shoot the 92FS in USPSA and one in IDPA. I remember about four or five years ago I had a failure to feed. Not bad for thousands of rounds shot. You will not go wrong with it. About the only downside is the front sight is not removal. Other models have a removal front sight which is good if you want a fiber optic. On to the fun factor. You don't know fun until you shoot competition. Go over to the Competition Forum and ask the guys that just shot their first match how much fun it was. Hell, ask Maks - he's totally hooked. Come to the next match at Shongum and watch. Plus you can handle a bunch of guns.