lunker

Contact Shane45 on the forum. He works for TJ Sporting Arms in Bayville.

No MIM parts. No flaky, locks to activate at inopportune moments. Hand fitted. I will take a gently used S&W from the early 90s or older every time.

This is my take only from many online purchases, not anything official. NIB - New in box. This means it is new and unfired. ANIB - as new in Box. This means the seller assumes it to be new but makes no assurances (i.e. he is not original owner). LNIB - Like new in box. The owner shot it a few (or more0 times but the gun is in immaculate condition.

It might come down to looks. All will function well.for you. Personally, I.don't care for the look of the full underlug on the 586/686 guns. In longer barrel lengths, it makes the gun feel nose heavy to me. The model 19 and 66 are both great (and great looking) guns.

The gas tube mount really is solid. It uses U clamps attached to the barrel for good lockup.

I am not sure everyone agrees with the earlier poster. I believe that vendors on the forum sell them. Try JET Agent. As for optics, an Ultimak gas tube gives a rock solid scout mount for a red dot. Google Ultimak gas tube.

Do you think the ejector, or its groove are out of spec? Can you buy a new ejector and try it out? Is that one that interchanges with a REM 870. I'm not sure what to do if it is the groove out of spec.

Lots of NJ FFLs have reasonable transfer fees. I pay $25-$30.

To me the only reasons I would choose a six inch barrel over a 4inch barrel were if I were hunting and needed the extra velocity provided by the 2 inches. Or if I were a bullseye shooter and the extra sight radius would help. The difference in recoil will be negligible. That said,different things appeal to different people and ultimately you are the one that has to live with it.

If you have a buddy nearby that is a reloader, most likely he will have a kinetic bullet puller. That is the safe way I know of to do it.

You are not the only one. My first revolver was a 686. Now I only have blued.

If you are not hell bent on a 6" barrel, I would look at the 4". It is the best all around compromise (long enough for good sight radius, short enough to be handy and not unwieldy, and not as nose heavy as a 6").

For now.

Wow, I had no idea they made modern SA/DA revolvers. I thought Rossi just stuck with Cowboy stuff like Single Actions. I have a Rossi 92 Lever gun and love it. I would be willing to try one.

I had a recent good experience with Tony. I bought a CMP Garand in 308. It worked fine, but I found the front sight blade was too fat for hitting small targets at 200+ yards (covered an 18" wide target at 240). I was spoiled by the skinny front sight posts on my 1903 Springfield and M1A Scout Squad. I called Tony and asked him to put on a set of National Match sights on my gun. The sights were on the pricy side (not his doing, real surplus NM sights just are). He installed them in 15 minutes and gave me some advice on applying boiled Linseed finish on my stocks too (they come from the CMP bare) and even gave me a small jar of the stuff. So I get home and am aiming the Garand at distant targets and am realizing that the hooded NM rear sight is damn small. Light barely shines through it. Too small for me to do much but put the gun on a bench and shoot at paper. I know some folks prefer the hooded rear, but I felt like it just slowed me down. I prefer shooting offhand or resting on my shooting bag, or prone. I gave Tony a call and he suggested a few fixes. In the end, he knew I would prefer sticking with the NM front sight and standard rear. I went over today and he swapped out the rear NM sight and refunded me for the rear (when he easily could have said no way). So my experience with him was excellent. He gave good service, and when an idiot customer (me) realized he didn't know what he really wanted, Tony made it right even though it was no fault of his. So I enthusiastically support him as a good person to deal with.

Lou's gunshop in Raritan always has a good selection, and the guys there are great.

A good semi-auto will shoot as fast as you can pull a trigger. Pumping takes a small amount of time, but can be subject to short-stroking under duress if you aren't well practiced. I have slowly been getting drawn to the auto side of the fence.

I have owned a good number of revolvers over the years. They were all Smith&Wessons and Rugers, and all were excellent. But some were better than others. Without exception, the older ones were much better made and much smoother operating guns than the new ones. Chalk it up to hand fitting vs machine fitting, lawyers dictating heavier trigger pull weights on new guns, or something I am simply unaware of. My first question is, is it going to be something you take pride in and want to pass on to grandkids? If the answer is no, you just want a tough, reliable blaster that you expect to treat like shit, then get yourself a Taurus revolver and buy lots of ammo with the money you save over a Smith or Ruger. If you do want a functional piece of art to pass on, there are plenty of guns that were both well-made and tough enough and good looking enough to shoot a lot, look great, and still be work reliably for your grandkids, In my opinion, the ones that fit the bill are OLDER Smith & Wessons and some Rugers (unless you are willing to spend the money for Performance Center or Pro series S&W, in which case the new ones are nice too). Rugers are a little rougher around the edges than S&W revolvers, and their cheaper prices reflect that. With the exception of some of the older Security Six models, I have never found Ruger revolvers to have the same good looks at S&W revolvers (yes, completely subjective, but a pretty popular sentiment), and Ruger triggers lag behind S&W triggers in having a nice smooth pull. A trigger job will bring any Ruger up to snuff quickly though. And Ruger's modular trigger group makes working on them easier than Smiths. My personal favorites are the K frame and N frame Smiths (see pictures below). I would recommend a Model 19 or Model 28-2 if you want something on the less expensive side. If you are willing to spend extra money on "pretty", a Model 27 is a blued piece of art. The popular adage "buy once, cry once" truly applies. And if you are a stainless fan, you have no soul and are on your own. Model 19-3 Model 27-2 in the middle (sold to a forum member) - has great blued finish Model 28-2 on the bottom (Not going anywhere ) - has satin duty finish

Zombies, violence, twisted humor. http://www.amazon.com/Revenant-Anders/dp/B008JQGR04/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369458625&sr=8-1&keywords=the+revenant

So you are most of the way there. It makes sense that a 3 Gun AR would have a nice trigger.

Since it's your first AR, I am guessing you are either new or at least rusty in using iron sights. My first step would be to try and get REALLY GOOD with those irons. I take my AR out once a month at most, and can hit an 18" x24" silhouette target at 240 yards at Central Jersey with regular AR iron sights. Someone who actually trains can do a lot better than that. Throw a red dot on once you have the confidence that you can hit anything you want without it. In that case the red dot is just for speed, not acting as a crutch. And if it ever shits the bed, it won't take you out with it. Consider making your next purchase a good trigger (if the rifle came with a milspec one). A nice Geissele or Wilson Combat, ALG, etc trigger will go a long way towards making you a better shooter. Even good shooters have a tough time with a sloppy standard GI trigger. Good luck!

Congrats. At least 223 is starting to free up. You won't have to sell more than 1 organ to shoot your new gun. Planning on using it in 3 gun? That always looked like a lot of fun.

Got it. I thought you meant more of the tinfoil hat type worries. The government knows you and I have guns whether I like it or not.

I have to make the festival of Landru one of these years. Looks like a real party.

Are you talking about standard (i.e. not high performance) current day 30 '06 ammo made by ammo made by major manufacturers? That runs counter to what I have read on the CMP forums. An adjustable gas plug is a great idea though.