BMWR12

Can't really tell what make the frame and upper is without seeing the proof marks. The toggle is a DWM and the upper is marked Germany so the upper is commercial production(post WW1). As for the threads on the barrel I would say that maybe someone wanted a mismatched Luger to put a suppressor or muzzle device on it for some reason. I don't think it was a factory job.

Never heard of that before. Could you post pictures of it? Please include the toggle and date code as well. I am going to say it was probably not made that way.

I wouldn't say I am an expert but I know a lot about them.

His prices on older stuff is very high. The artillery Luger on there is worth about half of what he is asking. If it had the 2 matching mags then his price might be close to fair.

The current law applies to semi auto only. The 72a is a bolt gun?

It really depends what you are looking for. I recently scored an original Remington Model 11 Military riot gun from a local shop.I found it on gunbroker first. I would have never have thought I would have found one in my backyard. I almost never find anything of interest i a local shop.

I was there today and picked up a nice original US military Remington model 11 Riot gun. The place was nice and the help was very nice. I was suprised they had some older stuff like a Luger rig and a Mauser 1910/14 pistol.

I would check on the Luger forum and Jan Stills Luger forum. You can find decent shooters for decent prices fairly often.

Anything decent with a mismatch magazine is going to cost at least $1000. If you want a non WW2 gun that is fun to shoot, I would recommend a artillery version. I would not buy a Russian capture because they are a mixed bag of parts and these guns need to assembled with properly fitted parts. If you buy one consider it as an good investment if you buy a decent one.

The SKS rifle is not very valuable but a few varieties are. When I get the Vietnam bringback I will post them. I am already setup to inherit it but I want it now. The rifle and gear are an important piece of history and I am trying my hardest to get it in my hands before that. If it was so easy I would have had it a few years ago.

I am not an expert either but I was always told the legit Vietnam stuff was the most valuable. I have been trying for the last 4 years to get a legit matching Vietnam bringback from the Vet that brought it back. It is in good shape and has the 3 forms to go with it. I will post the rig on here when I finally get it. I am hoping it will be very soon.

such as ? I am interested to know as I run into quite a few sks rifles every year.

I would say it wouldn't hurt the value to do that. It would look like it originally did. There are only a few sks rifles that I would say are rare and collectible. Those would be a papered bringback with all 3 forms and the Vietnamese produced version.

That is indeed the weirdest box of WW2 stuff I have seen. The longer casing looks like a blank round. If it was it was most likely used to launch a grenade, if the Japs even had launchers like the K98. The 2 pistol casings look like they could be .45acp cases?

The under barrel import mark is by far the most desirable when it comes to Mosin Nagants rifles. I have a SVT 40 that is a mismatch with no import or Sa marks. Is it a WW2 bring back? I think it could be but it is probably a Finnish capture that was not marked,

It could be a bringback but there is no real way to prove it is a bringback if it doesn't have one of the three papers with it.

The old mossberg kit fits on the Mav 88. I think they still make them too.

I have an old factory Mossberg bullpup and it is a lot of fun.

I believe they belong to the executor of the will unless stated otherwise in the will. They may be transferred to a eligible person with the proper forms.( COE for long gun and handgun permit for the handgun)

The 18volt makita is good and batteries charge really quickly too.

If you are going in a threaded hole I would be very careful and use something that you know is accurate. If you break a bolt in a small threaded hole it can be very difficult to remove even with the proper equipment.

I would not trust a torque wrench from Harbor Freight if you plan on using it for anything critical. They make some decent stuff but most of it is just throw away garbage.

As long as it is compliant it and not marked AR15 you should be good to go.

I know the headspace is good. The HRA bolt is a complete 6528287 marked with U It is not the D6528287. I don't know what I am doing with it yet. These seem to be harder to find and cost twice what a Springfield does for what I have seen.

I just took apart both(HRA and SA) bolts and checked them with the gauges. The gap between the Right lug and the reciever is 0.042" for both bolts. Do you guys know how to check the headspace on a 03a3? I can't find any real info on how to do it properly? I have been offered quite a few US .30cal rifles this year and I need to learn more about them before I buy them.