usnmars

Fellas lets keep this back on topic, we dont need to be bashing one another. The thread isn't really about CCW, it is about the RKBA amendment in this state. Although we may not agree with what eachother say, we dont need to be hammering on eachother. Justjules is LEO and has a different perspective than many of us, he is someone that actually deals with the BS every day. I for one respect his opinion, although I dont agree 100% with it. Lets stick together and stay on topic, lets not turn this into a cop bashing thread. There is a lot of good content on this forum, and lets keep it that way. Lets not keep picking at eachother.

the scratches look to be from the interruptor, fairly common. If you want , take the gun apart and look the interruptor over for any burrs, it more than likely isn't the chamber.

I am a temporary custodian of fine historical firearms. Many are well over 100 years old and look and shoot like the day they were made. I say temporary custodian because they have been around well before i came to this world and if i do my part they will be around well after i am gone. I would be heartbroken if something happened to them because of my negligence. I guess it matters what you have, a new glock that they are injection molding thousands a day of, or a hand made shutzen rifle, there is a big difference. New stuff can be easily replaced if you screw it up, old ones may be impossible to replace.

I have a bunch of names, who can forget that " monster" mosin, my Winchester Garand is "Mr. Winchester" they all have names.....

hahahaha, just wait Halb.... Lockbars are on Mr. Winchester as I refer to it, WRA bolt on order, and WRA oprod, next time I am home "he" is being sent to Shuffs for a nice park bath. Now when that comes back from a nice trip to the "day spa" I will post some pics... then it will be torture.

We had a post running about the trip 2 weeks ago for quite a while.http://njgunforums.c...__fromsearch__1 The one HRA with a MW of zero should be a correct grade. I just broke it down and it's 100% HRA parts that are correct for the SN, so that was a real score. The other HRA has a Springfield bolt so I happen to have an HRA bolt laying in the parts bin so it too is now correct. If I ever go to correct the Winchester, it's gonna cost me a fortune to get the parts so I am going to slap a set of lockbar sights and a Winchester bolt on it and call it good. For $525 you couldn't go wrong with these things, I am already starting to plan a trip for the summer, around July/August once my bank account recovers from my latest binge.

Here are some pics. First off in my new Winchester which was born early in 1942, it needs a major clean up and last the HRA's which are just slathered in Cosmo THE WINCHESTER THE HRA's

Now is the time to get your arse to the north store. I picked up a couple of cherries today that are insanely nice. The HRA FG's are the hot ticket today as many are on the verge of correct grade guns. I picked up 2 HRA FG's, one has HRA barrel that has a MW of 0, yup a ZERO and a TE of 1 and the other has a MW of .5 and TE of 2. These are FG's! I also picked up a racker Winchester with a MW of .75. There is a ton of nice stuff on the floors now, so if you ever thought of doing a trip head out there ASAP!

a couple of weeks ago there was a guy that lit a road flare and set it next to a 20lb propane tank and shot it...... sounds like fun to me!

I have seen a guy firing .308 out of a 30-06 and wonder why his gun was acting funky. The brass was expanding and blowing the necks out. It came out of the gun looking like a giant pistol brass.

It is called a M2 Hart Flash Hider. It's an extremely primitive flash hider that just clips on the end of the barrel. It's ugly and annoying when you shoot, but it's original.

Here are some pics for my newly acquired M1c from the CMP trip on Saturday. It was made in December of 1944 and went through a rebuild for Korea. All parts are correct other than the sights(lockbars are on order). I am missing an original M1c Griffin & Howe mount, so until I either win the lottery or come across a screaming deal I am using a commercial Griffin & Howe mount. I have 7/8" rings on order so until they come in and I can put my M82 scope on, a weaver k3 is lookin good. I have an original 1907 sling for display purposes but since I am going shooting tomorrow to break it in I just put on a repro. Even the cheek pad is a K-line! So here are some pics.

purdy!

I guess I am really spoiled working on the rig and being able to fish every night. Heads up.... from experience their favorite lure by far is called a boudreaux. Take a piece of broom handle about 10" long and drill a hole down the middle of it length wise. Wrap the darn thing in reflector tape and rig up your leader. It's ghetto as hell, but guranteed it will outfish any lure you can buy. When you are offshore you can't just go to a store and get a new lure, this is good 'ol cajun ingenuity at it's finest

They should be fired and never hold any Govt job again. Never ever again should taxpayer money be used to fund such complete indiscretion. They showed a complete disrespect for the laws they are supposed to enforce so they should lose all pensions, benefits and kicked out on the curb. It is not holding them to a higher standard, it was a crass disregard for the law. If it were you or I we would have been pulled over in a heartbeat and ticketed to hell.

Well I am going again tomorrow... YAY! 2 CMP trips in the same week!

Typical service grade was about 1 MW

The .308's are new barrels, stocks, ect. Essentially they are brand new guns. They work with the same clips for an m1

They were out there and did look nice, but the service grades interested me more. Maybe in due time but for now I am going GI

here is just a taste of my haul TOP TO BOTTOM: M1C sniper 5.79 mil Springfield(RARE) December 1941 Springfield 1917 Eddystone

Nothing like a CIWS mounted on a Humvee to wake Hajji up in the morning

Mounting a PU sniper scope setup on a Mosin Nagant 91/30 Here is the process I use for mounting a PU scope setup on a Mosin that is NOT an ex-sniper. This process is for making a repro or a “fake” sniper. When I am finished with the process, I go as far as stamping the stock in the barrel channel “REPRODUCTION” and stamp the barrel under the wood line “REPRODUCTION.” I do not want any of the rifles that I assemble to be mistaken for originals. I do take extra steps to make them look authentic but also mark them as Repro’s. This is the process I use and is not the correct way. Think of this as a “Bubba gunsmithing 101” class or a shadetree way of doing it. The rifle being used is one that I am putting together for my father that started out as an unissued rifle and will be used in every step of the little write ups I am doing. I am not responsible in any way if you screw up your gun. This is the way I do the conversion and am just sharing “my way.” If you are not comfortable in doing this, do not do it. There are plenty of real gunsmiths that are willing to do this process for a fee. I will not do this conversion for you, so don’t bother PM’ing me. Time is about 45 minutes start to finish to complete, and this is a rewarding weekend project that would be about a 7 on a scale from 1 to 10 in terms of difficulty. Do not start this project unless you have ample time to do it, nothing is worse than starting something and having to stop. Do not rush this job, remember to measure twice and cut/drill once. Required tools……. Drill press, sharp wood chisels, center punch, sharp drill bits, caliper, small clamps, and a silver or other colored sharpie marker, square, small level, tap, and a hacksaw blade. First off disassemble the rifle completely, take everything off the rifle including the interrupter and the trigger assembly. Take the colored sharpie marker and draw a line on the outside of the receiver that is where the stripper clip guide is. The goal is to drill the rear pin hole centered in the stripper clip guide on the receiver. The line is just a guide to help you get things lined up. Now take your caliper and measure from the top of the receiver down that line and make a mark on the line that is 12.5mm from the top of the receiver. This is where you will end up drilling for the rear mounting pin hole. Take your mount and some small hobby C-clamps and clamp the mount base on the receiver with the mark you just made dead center of the rear pin hole. Clamp the mount on tightly, I normally use 2 of the small clamps. Now with the base clamped on take a square and make sure the base is installed square on the receiver. The bottom of a Mosin receiver is machined square and flat so it is easy to make sure the mount is clamped on square. Now take the rifle and put it in a bench vise. Put the level on the bottom of the receiver and get the receiver sitting in the vise level. Now put the level on the mount and make sure it is level, this makes sure the mount is not only square to the receiver but also follows the centerline of the bore. Remember to really be a little anal here because once you drill your holes, there is no going back. Although the PU mounts have a bit of adjustment to compensate for a mount not straight, it is best to try to get it perfect when mounting the base. Once you think it is good and ready, take the interrupter setup and install it on the receiver. Make sure the interrupter spring is able to flex and move without hitting the mount, if it does reposition and figure out where it isn’t aligned. If the interrupter is free and doesn’t hit the mount, let’s get drilling! Now that everything is nice and square and level bring the barreled receiver and set it in the vise on your drill press. Once clamped in position, take your level and put it on the receiver to make 100% sure the receiver is level in the vise. You want to make sure the holes are drilled straight. Once ready, line up for the rear mounting pin hole. Drill this hole first and install the pin. Now I normally pull the barreled receiver out of the vise and re-check the alignment with the level and square again. Measure twice and drill once. With only one pin hole drilled you can easily reposition the mount to get it straight. Once 2 holes are drilled, you have to just go with it and pray for the best. Once you are sure it is good, I drill the first main mounting screw hole in the rear of the receiver. Once this hole is drilled, I yet again remove the barreled receiver from the vise on the drill press and remove the clamps. I fully tap this hole and use the mounting screw for the needed clamp action on the other holes. So I install the mounting screw and rear pin and drill the hole for the forward mounting screw. Once that hole is drilled I remove the mount and tap that hole. I then reassemble everything and drill the final hole for the forward pin. In this process you are using your mount as a “jig” to make sure your holes are in the right spot. When it is all drilled and tapped you now have the main part of the install done, now you need to notch the main mount screws for the locking screws. With the main screws installed all the way, I place the barreled receiver back in the vise. I find a drill bit that is appropriate size of the head of the locking screws. I then position the drill press centered right above the hole for the locking screw. Now I just use the large drill bit and drill a little to get the main screws notched. Since you are only drilling the side of the screw the bit wants to walk a little. Use the slowest speed on your press and go really slow. After a few minutes, you will have a perfect notch in the main screw for the locking screw. Repeat this process for the other main screw and you are officially done, now all that is left is to notch the stock. When it comes to notching the stock, I prefer to use a woodworking profile gauge. This helps make sure the cut is precise enough and looks somewhat professional. You can do it freehand but it just takes a little longer. I set the barreled receiver in the stock and mark what needs to be cut to make the barreled receiver set tightly in the stock. This is a slow and tedious process and I usually remove about 1/8” at a time and then remark and recut. Slow and steady, and remember measure twice cut once. Here is a little tip, make your cutout a LITTLE oversize. If your cutout on the stock is too precise you will crack your stock when the rifle possibly shifts from recoil when fired. If the rifle shifts in the stock during firing from recoil you WILL crack your stock, so a little gap around the mount is the way to go. And the finished product! **NOTE** on TULA snipers the pin holes were not drilled all the way through the receiver. The only holes drilled all the way through on Tula’s are the main mounting screws. On Izhevsk Mosins the holes are drilled all the way through. Just a little historical note depending on how “Correct” you are going to make your sniper. Typically the threads on an original mount are metric 6mm x.75 thread and on the postwar or reproduction mounts the threads are 6mm x 1. Get the proper tap for the mount you are using, don’t assume anything.

Have you been to Perry? I have multiple times and can say M1A's dominate. AR platforms are actually a somewhat rare sight.

Garands are great shooters and will do anything you can ask of them. Get an m1 and love it!

WE NEED TO GET A HEAD COUNT! If you do not say definate yes by Monday you are not being counted in. If you are on the original list as a yes just post again to confirm. I am trying to plan transportation and its kinda hard to do if you dont know how many people are coming. Next Friday is coming quick... Also I am not going to be picking anything up for people that cant make it. Dont waste your time PM'ing me asking me to do so. Your loss, take a gamble and order one.