usnmars

I think to have a successfull business you need the a major school. I am not going to be dropping my guns off somewhere to just a fudd, I want someone that has a schooled experience. For the past few months, I have been "apprenticing" under a fameous gunsmith and it's more of him teaching for my own use than doing others repairs. Now I have done work on other peoples guns, but they are just basic jobs nothing major. After seeing some of the big dollar guns I honestly would be afraid to work on them without proper schooling. I am talking 80-100k guns, not your normal Mossbergs or Remingtons. You have to realize that the customers guns no matter what they are are always worth more than your own. There is no saying "OOPS" when it comes to a customers guns. Are you willing to work on them without proper schooling?

Me gettin ready for a dive.....

I prefer the Shuster plug, although it's all I have and have nothing to compare it to. It works perfect so I have no complaints. I am just a little weary of ordering from garandgear because it doesn't have any reviews. Actually AIM has the Shusters right now. http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=XSCM1AGP&name=Schuster+Mfg.+M1+Garand+Adjustable+Gas+Nut&groupid=348

Yeah I know they are just a couple of Mosins but here are some pics of the newest addition to the herd a Tikka M39 and also a few family portraits. I am the worlds worst photographer so cut me a little slack..... I tried. LOL Tikka M39 and family portrait From top to bottom: 1943 Tikka M39 1943 Tikka M91 1934 Tikka M27 1943 Round Receiver Tikka 91/30

If shooting using corrosive ammo I would never use a snake. The possibility of contaminating the snake with corrosive salts and then using that snake on a different gun could cause issues. I dont like taking shortcuts so patches and brushes all the way for me.

I am going to be writing as I go on a rifle that I am building my Dad. I am pulling out all of my tricks to make a tack driver so as I make progress I will do a write up. The final installment will be installing a PU sniper scope setup on it. But unfortunately my mounts are held up in customs right now so I have no clue as to when I'll get to that part.

Just another example of a police state...... This is getting overkill by just a little bit.

Making a Mosin Nagant a Shooter Part 1 Bedding Here is part one of making a Mosin Nagant a shooter. Of almost all of the Mosins I have handled excluding the Finns, the bedding of the receiver section has been horrible. In the many refurbishments these rifles have gone through the stock has been swapped many times. I have found that bedding the receiver makes the biggest difference when it comes to making a Mosin accurate. I would rate this as a 5 on a scale from 1 to 10 when it comes to difficulty. This project should be undertaken by an individual who is comfortable with working with tools and is knowledgeable of firearms and the workings with a Mosin. This is NOT the correct way of doing a bedding job, but I am working with a $100 rifle and I am not going to spend $50 on materials. I came up with this method and found it to work wonderfully but yet has a minimal cost of materials. Total time to complete this project should be approximately 1hr work time and a 24hr cure time. Required materials: Brake cleaner, Heavy gear oil, drill and bits, JB Quick weld, rags, and a woodworking clamp. This is one of the most important steps you take. Do a little research on your rifle and make sure it is not, I repeat, NOT a collectable rifle. There are many resources on the internet that will help you identify a collectible and valuable rifle. Although Mosins are cheap, there are some very valuable and collectible specimens floating around. Remove the rifle from the stock. Strip the receiver all the way down to nothing but a barreled receiver. Remove the trigger assembly and the interrupter assembly. Put a little brake cleaner on a rag and wipe the INSIDE of the stock around where the receiver sits to remove any residual cosmoline. Take a little time with this and use a small acid brush if needed. You need to be sure the cosmoline is completely gone or the bedding will not stick to the stock. Be cautious with brake cleaner as this will remove the original shellac on the stock. Take a small drill bit and drill some little divots in the stock around where the chamber is and the tang of the receiver sits. These little divots should not be deep but they will give the bedding something to “bite” into. If the wood of the stock is completely soaked in cosmo I take a small chisel and just scrape away the surface layer of wood. Take an acid brush and coat the receiver of the gun and the rear half of the barrel in a heavy oil. I prefer a heavy gear oil. The oil acts as a release agent so that once the bedding material cures the barreled receiver can be removed from the stock. The bedding compound will not stick to the oil. Go liberal with the oil making sure to get into every nook and cranny including the threaded screw holes. If you miss a spot, there is a chance your rifle could be permanently bonded to the stock. This is a bad thing. Always test your release agent with the bedding compound you are using. Mix a small batch of compound up and coat a small scrap object such as a piece of brass in release agent. Put the small piece in the compound and let it sit. Once dry try removing the piece of brass. If it comes out effortlessly then the release agent should work. Take some masking tape and put it around the outside of the stock where the receiver sits. Take a sharp shop knife and trim the masking tape around the profile of the stock where the receiver sits. The purpose of the masking tape is to catch any dribbles or spills of the bedding compound. As you press the barreled receiver into the stock the excess bedding compound will ooze out. Mix a descent sized batch of bedding compound. I actually prefer to use JB Quick Weld. It’s cheap and from my experience it seems to work quite well for this application. Put the JB weld on the stock around where the chamber sits, the forward lug, and the rear tang. I put quite a bit of the compound on, and just remove the excess. Take a small clamp and in the middle of the receiver put pressure on the receiver pushing down into the stock. This pushes the receiver into the JB weld and presses out the excess. Wipe up all the drips and dribbles of excess JB Weld using a rag. I like to use cleaning patches. Once you wipe some excess off, toss cleaning patch in the trash. Use them like mini rags. Once the excess is removed, remove the masking tape on the stock and wipe up any excess that remains. Let the barreled receiver sit in the stock at a minimum overnight. You want it to fully cure before trying to remove the rifle from the stock. If the bedding compound is not fully cured, it has a possibility of warping or cracking when you remove the stock. After waiting overnight, you are ready to remove the barreled receiver from the stock. First say a quick little prayer that you just didn’t glue your stock to the barreled receiver. Now with even pressure start pulling the stock away from the barreled receiver. I start at the end of the stock and work my way back giving a slow even light pressure. Don’t pull too much because you risk cracking your stock. If your release agent worked, you will hear a “POP” and the 2 will separate. That’s it, now just take a drill bit and ream out the 2 holes for the trigger guard and trim the excess around the magazine slot in the stock. There is now a perfect impression of the barreled receiver in your stock. Here is the finished product before I re-drill the holes for the front and rear action screws. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU SCREW UP YOUR RIFLE!! This is my method of doing it and it works quite well for me. I am just sharing my way of doing it. THERE IS A CHANCE YOU CAN GLUE YOUR RIFLE TO THE STOCK! If you dont feel comfortable about the possibility of screwing up your rifle do not do this project! Part 2 is bedding the trigger guard.

for centerfire rifle I would say maybe 1500-2k. For pistol 200 if that. I am more of a rifle guy than anything

I was talking with some ATF guys today and we were talking about some NFA class III stuff. They said at the current rate that they are finding stuff when WWII vets die, they are about 90% positive that they are going to do an amnesty just like 1968 this year. Many honest citizens are becoming felons when they find that grandpa brought home a machine gun that they never knew about. Now here comes the big question. If federally they were to have amnesty, would NJ follow the amnesty? I know federal law trumps state but how does a situation like this play out?

use a stripper to remove the varnish. Lightly sand the rough spots and bring it to a smooth finish. Get some 400 grit wet sandpaper(use it dry) then apply some boiled linseed oil. Once the linseed oil has dried, put another coat on. 1 coat a day for about a week. This will hydrate the wood and start to fill the pores. Then get some gunney paste (the recipe is online) or order some Toms stock wax mix online. Buff the stock wax in by hand and work it in really good. I let it sit overnight then buff it out. Put maybe 3 coats on and call it good. Its a lot of work but the results are amazing.

eh, just get the lee anniversary kit. It has everything you need but dies. I think midway has the whole setup for 99 right now. Also for the brass dont worry about buying 8mm brass. Just get some once fired 30-06 brass, trim it and put it in the 8mm die. It works without a hiccup. I just shot 400rds of my converted brass out of my MG42 today and didn't have one issue. I have shot a tone of these conversions and never had a problem at all.

depends on what mood I am in. If i am just goofing off I like to play at about 75yrds but if testing loads or testing a rifle it's a hundred. If I am really looking to stretch things out a little i will bring it out to 600 on the farm. It all comes down to what mood I am in.

the "Great Train Robbery" one of the first movies was filmed in Milltown

miltec is the mitchells mausers of the surplus gun world. Stay away.......... far away.

Beautiful gun. Nice to see that someone else appreciates the finer firearms......

SWEEEET!!!!!!!

lol, I guess my original antique Kukri that I keep in the back of my Jeep is a no-no. It's over 100yrs old and sharp as a razor and used all the time.

When people who never served in the military head out to the range in BDU's and try to use military lingo. They dont realize that they just look tarded. Then people who never carried one in harms way and had their life depend on it say that the M16/Ar-15 is the greatest gun. It's never jammed, I haven't had any malfuctions......... Then I just laugh and politely walk away.

I will never own a gun with plastic. It's just a manufacturing shortcut lowering the cost of manufacturing but yet they raise the price therefore increasing their profit margins. Molding plastic doesn't take the craftsmanship that a natural wood stock does. Dont even get me started on tactical tupperware.

Tacti-Tards, Mall Ninjas, and how the entire marketing BS of the firearms industry is going "Tactical or ZOMBIE" This stuff is getting old!

WOW ITS KEN!!!!!! HE'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

check out Furniture and Firearms depot in Mt Bethel PA. He has a perfect looking Mossberg 144 Bull Barrel that is beautiful. I was fondling it the other day.

send me a pm with the model and parts you need. My local gunsmith has a ton of parts in stock especially for early stuff.

trust me there isn't any surface rust. those pics were taken prior to wiping off 50yrs of crud from sitting in a closet.