usnmars

let me know when you head down, i gotta pick up a bunch of junk anyway...

http://www.njgunforums.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=2419 Richie I have decided that we just need to meed up for some range time!LOL

You name the shop, time, and date anytime in the next 2 1/2 weeks, and I am willing to help you out.

Well I had my little nephew over the other day and happened to be cleaning rifles when my sister showed up. He loves to go shooting with his dad and I, and knows they are a tool not a toy. Even though he is young, I want to start him out early with safety and such. I can say he is a heck of a shot with my little .22 and seems to impress me quite a bit. Here he is with what he calls my "cannon"

Here is the first part of my write up. I ended up being really busy and didn't get to work on it today, so here is what i have so far: Well here is my ghetto sniper bolt for a mosin. It takes about 30 mins to make and seems to function well. I just like to tinker and in no way am I a machinist or gunsmith. I have tested my bolt yesterday and seemed to work well, but use these instructions at your own risk. First off let

All I can say is DAMN!!!!!

Here is a yugo mauser i am building for fun. So far it is fully glass bed, heavily modified trigger and i put a vintage weaver scope on it for my version of a sniper. Dont write off the shooter grades, they tend to clean up and end up being highly accurate!

well, for the metal parts use this method. http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting/cosmoline/pdf/cosmoline.pdf and for the stock, http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting2006/lowheatmethod/index.asp I just take all metal off the stock and set it on the dash of my truck in the summer. The heat will bleed most of the cosmo from the stock and bring it right to the surface. Just go out every half hour or so and wipe it off with a rag. and for corrosive ammo. http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting/corrosive/index.asp Just use a water based cleaner(heck i use boiling water) to take care of the salts. Once this is done clean like you normally would. It really isn't that bad and i have been shooting corrosive for years and have not had a hint of damage. Lastly the best place for ammo right now is: http://www.aimsurplus.com/acatalog/Romanian_8mm_Mauser_FMJ.html

Well i started a write up, and should have it done by tomorrow afternoon. Looks like i am going to start another bolt, so i can get pictures to go along with it. Also I have an article that i am writing on "accurizing a mosin and tuning the trigger" about halfway done. My PE sniper has a trigger pull of about 3oz and is smooth as silk and breaks like glass. This rifle shoots less than 1" groups all day long.

Well I know I am going to get major flak for this, but I absolutely love my Rock Island I picked up at Sarco a few months back. A true definite plus is that I only paid about 350 for it brand new OTD. I have put probably 4,000rds through the tube and have not had one failure to feed, eject, or extract. It has not jammed at all, and I have tried almost every kind ammo for it including semi wad cutters. Accuracy has surprised me and a few of my buddies that actually shoot competition. For the money, I have to go with the Rock Island.

It really was pretty simple. I did it in about 30mins with basic hand tools that any self respecting home owner should have. I am not a machinist or anything, I just like to tinker and figure things out.

Where are you located, i am in warren county (blairstown) and willing to "hook a brother up." If you are driving distance, bring her by and i will show you the ins and outs of mausers and even headspace it for you. I am a major mauser collector and love the smell of cosmoline-LOL

I have bought quite a few items from weavers and will say if you know what you are looking for and what the average price is, it is a great spot.

Well I was bored this morning and figured I would try out a project that I have been thinking about for a while. :mrgreen: I don

Well maybe a change of plans, there is a gun show in Wind Gap, PA this weekend. I have been there several times and although it is small, it always tends to be nice. And on a plus it is only about 10mins from my house LOL. Also the weather as of 1055am on wed, is that Saturday is 50% chance of thunderstorms and Sunday is supposed to be beautiful.

Well I finally made it back from work(what a horrible 3 weeks) and am willing to head to sarco with some of yall to help you pick out some winnners. If you are interested in doing a milsurp shoot prior to heading to sarco I am willing to bring what ever you want. You name it, I've got it 8-) . Kinda like a try it before you buy it. Whenever you want to meet up let me know. I am available for the next three weeks.

Purely polished turds. They are on the verge of fraud by renumbering mis-matching parts and refinishing a rifle and selling it as original. Check out surplusrifle.com for more in depth reviews but by a collectors point of view they are rip-offs. Please dont even consider looking at them, if you buy one you will regret it!

check out a PU nagant sniper. There are reproductions on the market for around $350.00 Or if you are like me and like to tinker you can get a mosin, and put the mount and scope on yourself. Mine have great accuracy, but the scope is only a 3.5x

One of the best things to hit the net in a long while, but yet not a word is spoken. Seems like veterans understand it. The people I showed that weren't in the military didn't get it. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2487638612433437293&q=Vetera

Thanks a million, i bookmarked this page just so i dont need to keep searching when i order stuff.

When I go milsurping or to a gun show, I usually bring a few basic tools. First is a bore light, you want to be able to see what you are getting yourself into-literally. Second is a dummy round. This is just a round that I pull the bullet, pour out the powder, and smack the primer. I usually drill a few holes in the brass to make it evident that it is a dummy and usually pull the primer. Put the bullet back into the brass to its normal spot. And last that I bring is a headspace gauge. Here is a pick of a dummy round that has been made. First thing I check is the bore condition. I usually check for a counter bore, and make sure the rifling goes all the way to the crown. Counter boring was done to correct a worn muzzle due to incorrect cleaning. Then I do the bullet test-take the dummy round and insert it bullet first into the face of the barrel. If the bullet goes into the bore all the way up to the crimp, it is either counter bored or shot out. If it goes in and gives you 1/8th to 1/4" you have a tight good bore. Then check the condition of the bore, if the lands and grooves are sharp and defined. If they are shallow and weak run a bore snake through it. A lot of times a bore full of cosmo and dust from storage will look shallow and weak. If a seller wont let you run a bore snake--run fast. I have actually encountered a seller at a gun show that got busted for filling pits in the bore with graphite. The bore looked good when bought, but when the buyer cleaned his purdy new rifle the graphite came out and the rifling looked like the surface of the moon. If the bore looks good and passes the bullet test, the barrel should be good. Here are examples of the bullet test. The first pic is a Mosin with a good muzzle, the second is the same round in a 8mm Mauser as an example. You want to see a gap between the crown and the crimp. Then check the crown. You are looking for the crown to be smooth and not dinged up or beat up. You are also looking for the rifling to go all the way to the crown. Here is a pic of a good crown. Notice the bore almost looks square, this is because the lands go all the way up to the crown. Second that I check is the condition of the bolt, look at the face and see if the firing pin hole is wallowed out or larger than it should be, and check that the face is fairly smooth and uniform. Then look at the locking lugs, where the bolt locks into the chamber. If the lugs look stressed, worn, or just something doesn't seem right, trust your gut and leave it. If the lugs are bad, you have issues with the bolt and possibly the rifle. Here is a pic of a good bolt face on a Mosin. The face is smooth, and the firing pin hole is centered, and round. Then use the bore light and look into the chamber. You are looking for burrs, cracks or anything else that looks suspicious. It should look smooth and well machined. Again this comes down to trust your gut, if it doesn't look right-pass on it. And my final test that I use when checking a rifle if it passes all of my other tests is to headspace it. I use the coin type gauges with a notch for the extractors so you don’t need to take the bolt apart. All you need is a no go gauge for the caliber you are looking at. Again if a seller wont let you check with a coin gauge walk away. I can see them not letting you use a normal gauge, because you need to take the bolt apart, but they should always let you use a coin gauge. This sounds like a lot to do in a store, but really it only takes maybe 3 min to fully check out a prospect purchase. I am only an obsessive collector, not a true gunsmith. These are just the checks that I personally do when I am shopping. I have learned the hard way and have been burned when buying. This is now why I fully inspect a rifle before putting the greenbacks on the counter. So for safety reasons I suggest that you get your purchase inspected by a gunsmith just to be safe.

How about sicily? I lived in sicily for several years when i was in the military. Awesome place to see. There are wwii artifacts everywhere if you are a collector, Mt. Etna an active volcano is there always shooting lava into the sky, and the history of the place is amazing. Sicily is a very cheep trip to do, when i go over there now it only costs about 1500.

From my experience in milsurp collecting(my collection make museums jealous) the best thing to remove cosmo is plain old boiling water. I am just a hobbyist collector and am not responsible if you goof up your gun. I am just saying this is my normal de-cosmo routine that i follow. The reason for the boiling water is that cosmo melts at 128