DirtyDigz

With NJ2AS? Don’t hold your breath. Notice Rosey said they’re in contact with *former* NJ2AS leaders.

Yes, Stephen Stamboulieh is THAT GUY (he's based out of Mississippi, but he worked hard up in NJ). If a coordinated "apply in mass to get denied CCW in mass" action can ever evolve, I bet he'd take the case.

Almeida was the only plaintiff left at the time he was granted the permit. Case ended there.

Party of 6 didn't run out of money AFAIK; I followed them closely and donated twice. One of the two main plaintiffs (Albert Almeida) was granted a carry permit. The other plaintiff dropped out of the case, not sure why. Since the only plaintiff who remained was granted a permit, there was nothing that could be litigated further. The out of state lawyer who was representing Party of 6 was Stephen Stamboulieh - he was also the lawyer who ran the case that got the stun gun ban thrown out. I met him in person at an event, he's the real deal as far as an RKBA advocate: http://www.sdslaw.us/

New problem discovered when cutting the concrete - garage floor drain is blocked, and probably has been for years (as evidenced by severe corrosion of the drain grate and the visible upper portion of the pipe). Tried sticking some wire coat hanger down, feels like it hits something solid about one foot down. Should I go rent an electric snake/auger thing to try and clear it?

Great success in turning the window into a walkway. Once I ripped the window and frame out I discovered there was a metal lintel above the top of the window. Score! GF's friend's BF is a mason, so he came over with a big ass gas-powered concrete drill. 4 cuts (2 on either side) and a whack with a sledge hammer and the lower wall section fell over. Cleaned up the edges with a power chisel. Turns out the 2 garage floors are nearly level with each other (level set across the gap has the bubble within the lines). Score^2. Now just waiting for it to warm up a bit to pour in some concrete into the floor gap.

Nitrogen fill is a thing now? I always thought that was just a joke. Watching thread with interest - I have a Costco membership and need new tires.

Hi Setherson - Until September I was a Chatham resident for ~10 years. Welcome to the forum, happy to answer any questions you might have.

Another opinion:

Thanks for probing DJW - my guess is you won't see either NJSP or AG's office give you "concrete" guidance on carry legality.

One more thing - its small, but too big for pocket carry IMO

Pulse in hand. Initial impressions - compact. Comparable size to a Glock 26, although about 1.5" shorter from "muzzle" to rear, and the grip is about 1/2" longer, but still not enough room for pinky finger. It does not ship with what I'd call a holster - instead it's a neoprene "sock" that covers the "slide", safety and trigger. It's a tight fit too, a struggle to get on and off. The sock is going back in the box, this needs a real holster. Futzing around with getting the sock off takes two hands and several seconds. The trigger has about 1/8" inch travel and is very light. I'm guessing it just closes a switch. The safety is annoyingly the reverse direction of a 1911 safety - you sweep it up to disable safety, sweep down to enable safety. Disabling the safety is turning the tazer on - the flashlight and laser come on when the safety is disabled. Flashlight is pretty anemic - I don't have a lumen meter, but I'm guessing you won't see much beyond 25-30 feet in the darkness with the light. The probe cartridge is easily removable, press in two tabs on the side of the cartridge and it pops out. When the cartridge is out, disabling the safety and pulling the triggers sets off electrodes at the end of the "muzzle" for what I guess is 30 seconds. The arc continues to zap when I let go of the trigger, so after a few seconds I enabled the safety and that shut it off. The electrodes are spread apart on the end of the "muzzle", and also angled from each other (the "muzzle" is not flat). If you're going to zap somebody with the muzzle you'll need to sink it into a patch of flesh so that both electrodes make contact.

Anyone happen to know if a pulse has enough metal in it to set off a walk-through metal detector?

The answer to "why do you have a knife/mag light/baseball bat/stun gun" is "for all legal purposes in the state of NJ, officer".

You mean, track who Taser sold the cartridge to initially. Are the distributors selling to civilians keeping track of who bought what cartridges? Is 'confetti' in the civilian pulse model cartridges?

So who's going to be the first test case to open carry in a holster in NJ?:

I predict enhanced demand for Aguila mini-shells in NJ...

Done

How is it I'm not on your customer email list? Sending you a PM to hopefully fix that.

New question - scored a "shop sink" at a yard sale, exactly the same as this: Would like to put it in my utility room where I have existing clothes washer hookup and drain: Is there a "tap" fitting I can use to get hold and cold water to the shop sink and still hook up washer for water supply also? How could I hook up the shop sink PVC drain pipe to the existing copper drain and still be able to use it for a washer drain too?

Love mine, and it will be my carry handgun if it carry ever comes to NJ. Pros (somewhat subjective) - Better "pointability" for me than glocks, super accurate, dead-stone reliable in feeding and firing - it has never hiccuped even once with a variety of FMJ and HP ammo. Cons - Wide discrepancy in trigger pull weight between DA and SA modes, takes practice if you're coming over from the glock side. Slide is very narrow top to bottom compared to other handguns, can be a challenge to manually cycle if you don't have a strong grip. Another con is there is not as many holster choices as with more popular models. I also didn't like the stock sights, replaced them with Truglo TFO's. There's a couple of places that supply parts or gunsmithing services to improve the trigger. Cajun Gun Works is the one I'll be going to when I get spare cash together: https://cajungunworks.com/ Here's a review that I'm mostly in agreement with: http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2012/06/gl-kohler/gun-review-cz-75-p-01/

Nails - bought an angle grinder and a cutoff wheel tonight, tried it out, works great. Sparks! Garage window/door - That "framing lumber" is just some kind of shelf remnant nailed to the concrete - the ceiling is actually finished off and painted. According to my neighbor the garge ceilings are "double rocked as required for fire protection" as he was present when the previous owner built the upstairs living area. A little more background - 1st floor of house is concrete block walls on slab. All garage/workshop space on the first floor. 2nd floor is wood frame and is the living area. Apparently the 2 car garage/workshop was built first, then the 1 car garage and 2nd floor was added later. I am concerned about cutting the block myself and then not being to code/passing inspection when it comes time to sell the place 8-10 years down the road.

Next question - apparently the larger 2 car garage/workshop was built first, and then the section with the 1 car garage was built second, because in the wall between the 2 garages there is a window: Apparently that used to be an exterior wall... I'd really like to be able to walk between the garages without having to go out the garage doors, so I'd like to remove the window and turn the window opening into a walkway, perhaps even with a door. Is that something I can even entertain tackling myself (I don't have any masonry/foundation/structural knowledge, or masonry/concrete cutting tools), or should I be going straight to looking for a contractor?

So I bought my first house and as I start on various projects I'm coming up with questions. Generally everyone here impresses me with their practical knowledge, so figured I'd start asking "how do I" or "what do you recommend" questions here. First question - Lower level of the house is all concrete block (a 2 car garage with a walkway to a smaller workshop area, and then separated by a concrete block wall from a one car garage. The workshop had a bunch of shelving affixed to the wall that was all dry-rotted crumbly wood from the 70's with really odd shapes, so I tore it all off the walls. The wood pulled away from the concrete fasteners, so the wall is still sprinkled with probably a hundred or so concrete fasteners. The fasteners look like big nails with spiral grooves running down the length of them - like these, only longer and rustier: So after getting all the wood down, I started to take a crowbar to the fasteners and found that they don't smoothly pull out of the concrete block wall, they *explode* out in a shower of concrete dust and leave a crater in the wall. I'm concerned that pulling out a hundred of them out with the resulting craters might actually weaken the wall. Any suggestion on how I get these out without turning the wall into a moonscape? My first thought is to get an abrasive cutoff wheel and just cut them all off flush with the wall instead of trying to pull them out.