matt6669

I'll make this short but to the point. I started out with a progressive press and have never thought bad of starting with this but I also had a fantastic teacher who took his time and made sure I understood EVERYTHING before I left his house from lesson one. Now that I have that out of the way I will stress that it is absolutely imperative you get a single stage press as well. Not only does it make sense to have a single stage to do simple things like depriming but also when you are making test loads I feel there is no better way to do it but than on a single stage. Also I reload ALL of my rifle rounds on a single stage as I want accuracy and leave my progressive for the pistol calibers. Another thing to note with progressives as far as reloading rifle. You need to realize that you can not load a case that has caselube on it. so you'll be using your progressive for the first two steps, taking your cases out, cleaning off caselube and then starting your process again. Also a lot of guys like to actually meter their charges instead of just letting the press meter it for you, so if you plan on doing that it's another step you need to take the case out of the press etc. With all that said I plan on upgrading my Dillon Square deal to a Dillon 650 for a few reasons. A. I want a caseloader for my pistol rounds. B. I'm super lazy and when I'm depriming cases I don't like loading and unloading a case. With a progressive I can set a tool head up with just a depriming die, and only have to feed my cases in and let the machine eject my deprimed cases out thus speeding up my process and feeding my laziness. C. I do want the ability for/if I get a 1919 to be able to make rifle rounds quickly for the sole purpose of blowing crap up so exact accuracy isn't the goal and here is where a progressive will come in handy. Obviously I'm another Dillon Blue fanboy and wouldn't trade my Dillon equipment for anything else in the world. I just wish Dillon would come out with a single stage press with an integrated priming system as well as a way to collect the primers like the Lee presses have unlike my RCBS press and I'd be a happy boy!

Well for the past couple of days I have been sanding away and I've been able to get 3/4's of the top deck sanded down along with one of the seats completely sanded down. Tomorrow I will start to tackle some of the bottom above the water line and see what happens. There is about 5 coats of paint on it, so I'm hoping it comes off easily and gives me no problems. Does anyone have good tips / techniques for blue printing the bottom of the hull. I'm trying to figure out what my plan of attack should be for this as I don't think sanding down the hull with a rotary sander for the bottom would be my best option. Should I look at using a rectangular shaped vibratory sander or should I use a long block sander and do it by hand. Also I'm assuming do a couple layers of base/primer and then go back and block sand again and then do my final paint would be my best option? Thanks M Also has anyone ever used the interlux VC Performance Epoxy?? Thinking about possibly using this for the bottom side.

except that your buying pistol ammo so it gets recorded anyway lolz Ray if your that scared of the gov't maybe you should start reloading

Thanks for the heads up John. I will stop by my autoparts store tomorrow and see if they got anything. That would most definitely help!

Well here she is, my shining star of a boat lol I do believe I'm missing an autobailer here hmmmmmm Look at that fine paint job!! Tonight I had a friend stop by and we both went to town with scrapers and knocked off pretty much all of the flaked up paint. Then we broke out the sanders and started sanding and that's when we broke down in laughter and tears. This old paint just is not coming off with the sander. Looks like tomorrow I'll be stopping at the hardware store and picking up some paint scrapers that have the built in razor blades to try and take it down to the gelcoat and then stand from there. Also found a bunch of cracks in the gelcoat which I'm hoping doesn't go down into the fiberglass. Going to have to figure out what the best way to patch that up will be. Will get some pictures of the progress up tomorrow after I'm done doing some work.

r u kidding me the freaking smiley's don't work because it says f uck in it. WTF maks

:fugg: :fugg: :fugg: :fugg: :fugg: :fugg:

It's been standard for almost ever. The problem with the wood top handguard is when these guns were used originally in full-auto, the wood topguard would actually catch on fire. This is when they moved to the metal and or plastic top handguards. If you come across a wood one, chances are it'll have burn marks on the inside of the handguard.

ahhh this is very important / interesting information! Thanks for the heads up John I will definitely have to now reconsider my options. Tony I know your out there, what other paints should I be looking at both type and manufacturer? Thanks M

I've heard for racing hulls the hard antifouling is the way to go compared to the ablative but I could be wrong. And yeah I need to spend my money somewhere to energize the economy, might as well spend it on boats as well as guns.

Hey John I am actually planning on using a hard antifouling paint as the boat is probably going to be kept in the water the whole season and then just trailered home at the end of the season.

Actually I work on projects quite quickly. I work quick on anything I enjoy working on. So I pretty much guarantee this boat will be in the water by Sept 1st. The other benefit is it doesn't need that much work. The thing that's going to take me the longest is sanding down the existing paint to get the boat ready for paint. Hopefully I can get some space at my buddies auto body shop possibly to speed up the process. M

Hey Tony can you recommend a paint that is sort of maintenance free. I hateeeeeeeeeee maintenance lol Dreck I may definitely take you up on that offer thanks!! Bob it is a centerboard boat but it was designed only to run a mainsail and a jib no spinnaker or anything extra like that. I believe it's got something like 150 sq ft of sail and they supposedly get moving pretty good if you have good wind. Everyone I've talked to always says they have great memories of sailing so that's what I'm going for.

Well I already know I have to spend 125 dollars in blocks for the rigging, another 200 dollars in rope for the rigging. Looking at expoxy paints it looks like the underside paint is going to run me 180 and the topside paint with undercoater is going to be about 120. The rudder I got with the boat will be useable for the summer but next year will have to be replaced with a new fiberglass one so I'll be dumping about 400 dollars there. The sails are in decent shape, i give them a few years but replacement cost will be anywhere from 1400-1800 dollars for new sails. The top side of all of this is, to get the boat back in the water this year with the purchase price of the boat I'll be looking at somewhere of 1200 dollars. After I've replaced everything a similar boat in this market will cost north of 2000 dollars. The biggest plus is, the lake I live on has a club that actually race this boat and those people have been phenomenal with helping me out and getting me into it. This Saturday one of the guys is actually going to put me in his boat and let me race with him to teach me the ropes. The only downside to this boat is it can't be used as an over nighter. When I originally was looking I wanted something I could sleep in overnight if I wanted to. Now it seems the chances of me doing an over nighter are slim to none, so I'm happy I went with a more racer style boat instead of a cruiser. Robot, do you remember exactly what kind of paint you guys used for the bottom. I'm looking at the Pettit Vivid for the bottom which is 180 dollars a gallon I almost had a heart attach when I saw that. And Pettit Easypoxy for the top side at about 80 dollars a gallon and also requiring an undercoater at 50 bucks.

It's raced by two people, it can be sailed solo but it can hold up to 6 people for a day sail if wanted. So far I'm having fun and all I've worked on is the trailer so far. It's been a while since I've wrenched on anything now that I don't have jeeps and fast cars anymore so this should be really fun. I'm hoping to have it back in the water by September for the good fall winds we have here on greenwood lake. My plan is to sand down the whole boat and repaint the bottom in a blue color and the top in a white color. Marine paint isn't cheap, looks like its going to cost me about a 100 bucks for each color of paint because I need a gallon of each. That's painful!

Well as some of you know I went ahead and bought a sailboat because I've always wanted one, had a chance to sail on a few boats and fell in love so for the past year I've been looking for sailboats on the various for sale outlets out there. So about two weeks back I finally came across one of the sailboats I've been looking at a Rebel 16ft sailboat. It was practically right in my backyard stored at South Shore marine in West Milford. The seller only wanted 300 dollars and said it came on a trailer with sails and all the rigging. Based on the price I knew it was going to be in rough shape. So I went over there and checked it out and it definitely was in rough shape. But the fiberglass was all solid with no soft spots. I had my friend who works at the marine check it out and he said the same thing. So I emailed the lady back, got her down to 225 and the following week I was the proud owner of a sailboat. I knew right away before I would be able to get the boat home I would have to replace both rims and tires along with at least one side of bearings. So today I went to the trailer place and picked up all the needed parts. I just spent from 6pm til 9pm working on one side of the trailer. The old bearings were completely disintegrated without a single needle bearing to be found. The inside part of the bearings were rusted solid onto the axle to which I had to actually cut 90% through them and then use a metal chisel to snap them apart in order to get them off. Then putting the new bearing races into the hub was another disaster but I finally got it to happen so I now have one side of the trailer with all new parts. Tomorrow I plan on doing the otherside and bringing the boat and trailer home hopefully! Will post pictures either tomorrow when I get it home or Thursday when I step the mast up to start to take inventory on all the rigging that I'm actually missing that the lady said was there. I'll also keep a running tally of what I have spent on the boat to date. Boat/trailer/sails - $225 Tires & Bearings & spare tire - $191 Misc sanding supplies - $55 Assorted rigging & new centerboard - &225 All new lines & some rigging components - $223.39 Various rigging components - $150.71 Total invested - $1,070.10 Whewwww boy there goes the budget!

Thanks Bob and Parker for the information. I will be checking this stuff out later tonight.

yeah not looking for sandbags as that's no the application for this kind of gun. I may have to check out a harris I have heard good things about them in the past. Figured a few of our long range shooters would chime in but guess not.

Looking for a bi-pod for my M1A. Whose used what with what kind of results. As long as it'll fit an M1A go ahead and list it even if you had it on other guns. Preferably looking to hear from guys shooting 300 yards and further. M

Thank you Anthony I will contact the corresponding secretary.

man I should not of read this thread at 1:46 am as I am now starving. Anytime anyone wants to meet up in the ironbound for some eats let me know. It's the only reason I'll go to that shithole of a town anymore now that I graduated and don't have to go back there on a daily basis.

Anthony you got a crap ton of people in this thread who said they would LOVE to come voice their opinions at meetings but you know what the problem is, not a single one of us can find a word, a mention, nada about the meetings. Also as President it's his job to put people in position to delegate work out to other people. The fact that he decides the entire staff should report to him is his own controlling fault. Get people you trust into position to do volunteer work and you cut down on the amount of hours that you have to do baby-sitting tasks. Clearly his way of monitoring people wasn't working out with the complete debacle of a membership program. I would love to serve on the board of ANJRPC but it wouldn't be fair for me to run for a position without knowing that in 6 months I would have to step down from that position due to relocating for a job. As soon as I know where I will be for the next few years, if it's in North Jersey you can bet your a** I'll be volunteering at CR/ANJRPC to make things better over there because as we all know it definitely could use the help. And as Treasurer maybe you can shed some light on the issues of RO hours. Why is it one week I show up and there is now a mandate that an RO be on the pistol range at all times. Then a month later I go and there isn't an RO to be found. Then it turns out that the RO's hours were cut back due to "financial reasons?" If we have this so called "war chest" why are we not using it. God forbid something happens at one of the ranges at CR, that's all the bad press we'd need to shoot our own foot off. The anti's would jump all over this saying we can't even handle ourselves at a range and we want to be allowed to carry guns in public. Somethings that happen down there just don't make sense to me at all and when the board is unwilling to share their plans with their members you have issues that arise like this. If ANJRPC was so excited about this "new position" why was it not email blasted a month ago stating we are thinking about creating this new position and we'd like to hear what our members think. Or we are voting on this new position at our next meeting, come out and share your opinions with us. Instead it's kept completely hush hush, it gets rammed through and then an email is sent out parading the idea. Show some transparency and maybe your members will start to trust you instead of start treating you like your own government.

Damn you are too fast Joe. I was just getting ready to post this! Yes it's amazing how the dollar amount is conspicuously left out, what a disappointment. They also make it sound like SB is stepping down from his law firm to pursue ANJRPC full time. THIS IS NOT THE CASE!! Apparently the board voted for this unanimously and I believe that they all should be booted from the board. This is completely disgraceful. My favorite line though is ANJRPC has become a force to be reckoned with in NJ. Are you kidding me, yeah you did a lot with the OGAM and the other ridiculous laws in NJ. Thanks for being that force to be reckoned with, your a joke! Like the title says, disappointment after disappointment!

it's completely ridiculous Joe and you guys should stand up and ask why was this done! And where are the bids from multiple people to make sure we are getting the lowest price possible. The corruption is absolutely ridiculous!

I don't think it has anything to do with pissing people off. In order to get something like this reversed we are going to need a group of people complaining about it. And I don't know of any other way to get a large enough group of people involved without getting them informed. I can't very well go around talking to every individual at CR but I can very easily walk around to the ranges handing out said flyers that have all the information they need on it to make their own opinions and what they want to do about it. That's why I also think having the email account would be a good idea because I can get them to email the email account and start a contact list so I know how many people I have willing to fight the fight.