JonF

Tony, how did these shoot for you? Sorry i didn't make it out to the match to meet up with you. I had even packed up my taurus to bring along as i was really hoping to compare. :/ I'll bring it with me this tuesday to SS if you plan on being there also.

I reload them and like the colonel says, primer pockets are kinda tight which requires a little extra effort on the handle. Otherwise Its good brass and works fine.

I sometimes go to Monmouth RPC with a friend thats a member and they have the same rule. I've seen guys use a piece of letter sized paper rolled up in a cone with the small end bent down into the chamber to hold the bolt open with the big end up in the air to flag its open. I actually didn't know why these two guys next to us were doing that until i asked why his M&P 22 looked like it was dragging a line of toilet paper. lol

hey Bob, what grips are those?

BTW, Ronny, how much ammo have you loaded up so far and how much will you hammer out before calling it quits for the season?

i've found that the primer pockets of these are kinda loose. IT seems the NT primers aren't the same size as normal primers or perhaps the same size but the pockets are slightly larger such that there is excess space that they have to fill with some kinda of cement. When you decap these, some leave the cement shim intact and your primer may seat like normal. Other times, the cement is broken out leaving a loose pocket that new primers that simply won't even grab into. I would usually not notice until i finished that round and it dumped into the bin with no primer effectively becoming a flammable pepper shaker seasoning the rest of the ammo in the hopper. :/ Now i filter those out unconditionally.

Bummer. At this point, i guess your only recourse is to find something in-stock in a brick and mortar store. Cabelas does stock common LnL parts in thier stores. Ray Ray is going there this weekend, maybe he would be kind enough to keep an eye out for you.

http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=00005392645 I deal with Midsouth a lot and they say low stock and i've always found thier inventory status to be accurate but i'd call to verify.

Lol, wut? Things can't be that bad that you have to scrape the bottom of the reject barrel to scrounge up a couple rounds to shoot.

Pete, yeah, it stands a little tall! The top of the hopper is 3 feet off the bench. I'm a tall dude so i can still just about see in the hopper if i stand right up to it. The good thing though is that the entire hopper simply slides up and off the pole mount and is only held secure by light compression fit and gravity.

i think he was stating W231 figures in reference to the OP using that same powder.

I think you have ammo commitment issues. I actually do the same for less oft used calibers like 357/44 magnums, but 9mm i'm burning through a lot faster these days shooting matches and junk. Anywho, I got this new case feeder, i figure i might as well put her to work!

All you folks who do a lot of reloading to the tune of having several thousand rounds of a single caliber on hand, how do you store your ammo? Do you just have umpteen 50/100 rd ammo boxes stacked floor to ceiling or do you dump them en-masse in big bulk ammo cans and swim in them like Scrooge McDuck? I have a few K rounds of 9mm components and i only have a few 100rd boxes up til now which is as much as i've ever reloaded at a time.

Ad far as converting or retrofitting some feeder to your deal^2 press, the largest problem you'll have is getting them to interact--they're not two separate disconnected systems. With the LnL, each press already has a case feeder shuttle raceway already integrated into it so the "interface" between the press and the case feeder is there. Mating them up is a matter of tightening some bolts and tuning the action.

When the cases fall from the hopper down the clear tube, they queue up in the tube at that first metal block. That mechanism is what dispenses one shell at a time to the ram mounted feed assembly. As the ram raises, a rotating piece called a "shuttle" containing 1 shell rotates slightly around to align with and hand off the shell to the ram mounted assembly. Once the shell is in the hands of the ram mounted assembly, a linear shuttle with a V-shaped feeding block on the end slowly guides the shell into the presses' shell plate as the ram lowers. The shuttle rides along a uniquely bent guide wire which determines it motion and timing with respect to its interaction with the presses shell plate. The v-block and shell plate have to come together at just the right time so the shell is inserted cleanly into the shell plate notch. Both systems are adjustable to get the timing in sync so that the shells dont feed too early or late or try to over or under insert deeply enough.

Ordered this from Cabela's on saturday, expected to get it next month due to backorder status, then i come home to it sitting on the step last night. Certainly a nice surprise, however, i don't yet have the appropriate shell plate to fully test it but i went and set it up nonetheless to get it mostly dialed in. My initial thoughts are that it is very timing sensitive with regards to the shell pusher being in sync with the presses' shell plate but this is understandable though since it has to interact with it to a fine degree to smoothly pass off the shells from one mechanism to the next. Once i got it all assembled, i began to adjust the shell delivery timing which actually revealed to me that my adjustment pawls weren't 100% correct. Some minor tweaks there and the shell plate was properly timed to receive shells and then some minor adjustment of the shell delivery timing and they were mating up perfectly. Still having some occasional shell tipping which i think may require some v-block adjustment to get the centering nailed down better. I'll play with that a little more in the future. I still have to pick up a small pistol shell feeder plate and see if that needs any adjustment up in the hopper. Anyone else use the shell feeder and have any tips for use?

Tony, i'll def try to bring mine sunday so we can compare. I've since looked at a couple more PT1911's in the gun shop to compare and i saw similar things such as slide overhang and sloppy magwell bevel but can't really fully compare unless i take down the guns which isn't always a possibility at the store. Again, some of these are nitpicky but do not affect function. I have not contacted the dealer *yet* for a couple reasons. 1, i've not seen enough taurus guns to be sure this is an anomaly. 2, If i were to send it back, whats the chances i get one that's actually better (or doesn't just swap problem a for problem B)? Do i ask the buy to take it down and mic some of the parts before choosing one? For $450, i guess it is what it is and i'm not sure its worth wasting another permit to swap quite yet. I'll have to wait a eval it some more after comparing. Mikey, we're talking about 2 totally different things here.

Dunno yet. I picked it up for a project where i need to fit a different caliber barrel to it so i have not run a single round of 38 super through it.

What models do you have and do you find any similar characteristics to the list i put up? I'm curious to see if these are common traits on taurus guns. I believe the hammer is MIM also, and they had no problem cutting the hammer hooks for full and half cock. Why couldn't they do the sear as well? Its not because they can't machine MIM. Now, please notice that i'm not knocking the use of MIM for reasons of strength, i recognize that its an acceptable manufacturing method for parts that are under stress/load. My gripe is with the poor tolerances of these various parts. There's absolutely no way this gun would be worth $800 street price. The list of great guns at or under $800 is staggering and most all will have far better construction the closer you go to the end of that range. If they sold for 800, for a couple hundred more you can have a much better crafted 1911 from a slew of manufacturers. For the money i paid, again, it isn't bad but i guess i expected a bit more as i've never had a gun this sloppy and rough looking outside of a mosin nagant. I bought it for s apecific purpose as a project so as long as it runs reliably, i'll be satisfied, but know that its no prom queen.

many of the past contestants all had some very specific specialty. Some olympic shotgunners, uspsa pistol shooters, cowboy shooters, etc but often these peoples' skills were a detriment to thier overall success since they lacked the more well rounded skills of the LE/MIL contestants who dominated, and ultimately won, last season. Still, you need variety of not only skills, but also personalities since it is TV afterall.

No, online dealer. PT1911SS 38 super No, its not a *bad* gun since it does operate, but its not a good gun either no matter what price point you put it at. Here's a short list of the things i was very disappointed with: 1. poor barrel bushing fit. in full lockup, i could wiggle the barrel in the bushing and wiggle the bushing in the slide. double whammy! 2. proprietary sight dovetails. Lets break out the files... 3. sloppy frame rail tolerance (jiggles when you shake it). not a terrible issue since there's no issue with accuracy but its sloppy nonetheless. 4. poor rear frame/slide fit. slide overhangs frame a lot in the back. UGLY! 5. MIM slide stop pin had visible seam and not perfectly straight. had to buff that ridge out with stone and superfine wet/dry. 6. MIM sear had a completely rounded tip, absolutely no fitting was done outside of the hammer hooks. 7. advertised "beveled magwell" is a joke. a slight chamfer on the bottom of the frame edges does not make a "magwell". 8. tool marks all over the inside of the parts. 9. many of the part dimensions are cast so close to final spec, many parts don't get actually get touched by the mill. The frame slide rails were still rough in some spots because the mill never came in contact with them. 10. The rail the disconnector rides was like sandpaper, i don't even think the mill ever hit that. 11. barrel had excess axial movement when in lockup. 12. barrel hood sides were filed on an angle to clear the breech slot. so sloppy. 13. barrel lower lugs had uneven contact with the pivot pin. 14. breech face wasn't milled square! WTF! This pissed me off more than any of the other junk on this gun. 15. ambi-safety lever on right side is loose and easy to pull out

I use the butler creek steel lips mags for my 10/22. they are a stick type mag with a more straight type feed and one benefit is that you can use thier crank fed speed loader to stoke them almost as fast as you can shoot them. The loader doesn't really work with the oem rotary mags though.

meh, i just bought one and i'm not impressed. fit and finish is poor, extensive use of MIM, etc. I paid damn near cost for a closeout so i'm not too perturbed, but if i paid closer to msrp or street price, i'd be upset. I dont think i could recommend these to anyone without serious caveats. I didn't expect it to be on par with a 1K+ gun like my DW, but i expected a bit more than this after disassembling it entirely and going over each part with a fine tooth comb.

Dear Maks, I'm sooo full, i just can't hold another pistol. Please enlist help! Sincerely, Your Safe

i'm in. Fo' sho'.