Regulator72

I was told they also use the lock box so if people change their minds, they don't just put it on any old shelf in store.. we've all done that at the grocery store I'm sure

Welcome from Brick

Thanks Tim, i'll check it out..

haha.. I've had zero issues with Win 231. It was a recommended powder from the forum and I'm currently looking to buy more. Now, if you try to rationalize the cost of reloading equipment and and figure that into your costs, forget it.. it will take a while.. The nice part for me is that you can try different loads, like lighter .45acp loads (these are nice to shoot and my wife can handle my 1911 no problems) it also gives me an excuse to hit the basement for an hour or so once in a while and get some peace... between the Wife, Dog, 5 month old and 6 year old, it's nice...

Welcome from Brick..

yeah the hazmat sucks, BUT, many places charge one hazmat fee no matter what the order is, so get a few people and it becomes small.. I bought my win 231 from solomans, and primers from matt6669. I also bought some small pistol primers in pa that were pretty cheap, no hazmat.. Solomans had zero primers when i was there last, not sure about now.. I also shoot mostly 45acp and 9mm...

you can get 1000 115fmj delivered for 100.00 from Montana Montana Gold I almost ordered from here this morning, but got side tracked. I'd be happy to split a larger order with you if we can save some $$.

Joe, what have you priced out? what type of powder, boolits and primers? last i figured it out, went like this... Win 231 1 lb, say 4.5gr per round - 20.00 primers, 1000 - 30.00 safe number boolits - 9mm 124gr FMJ, 1000 - 100.00 $7.14 /50 .14 a round or 142.86 per thousand you should be able to get about 1555 rounds per lb of win 231 (check my math, but roughly 7000gr per 1 lb @ 4.5gr per round) granted, not a whole lot cheaper, but still cheaper. AND this is buying the minimums, worst case. If you buy 8lb powder like Dan said, and buy more boolits and primers at a time, your cost drops. Plus, you never run outta ammo, just make more. brass is pretty much free assuming you saved yours, or grab some from a range.. get the primers for $25/1000 and you drop to $6.89/per 50 for 9mm. usaammo.com has decent prices, but shipping for 1000 rds of 9mm (115gr) is 29.38, so your paying 198.38 delivered for 1000/rds.

I sent a pistol back to S&W for warranty repair. I used Fedex, told them it was a firearm, they asked if it was unloaded, and that was it. My advice would be to go to a Fedex location, not a kinkos or store. When the repair was complete, they sent it directly back to me. edit; I did not recieve a prepaid label from them, they gave me an address

Hello and welcome from the next town over.. It was most likely more busy because of the weather yesterday. They have been surprisingly busy during the weekdays when I have gone there. Also, Monday night is the fun shoot, so they close the range @ 6 to regular shooters (those not shooting in the fun shoot). The best time I have found on Monday was right when they open (12 on Monday). There is a bunch a of guys from the forum that meet on Tuesday nights, if you around, stop by tonight..

from the link; Can someone explain to me how/why this person knows this? not questioning the statement, more trying to learn what to look for.. are the primer strikes too deep?

Jimmy.. I'm still interested in taking a ride to CMP.. We can leave @ 4 am, get there by 11... lets go!!

The new Florida CCW id's don't say Non-Resident anymore, I thought I read somewhere that Florida sees their CCW as a "Florida CCW" whether you are a resident or not, as there is no non resident CCW, simply a Florida CCW?

Here, see if this link helps. it does describe how to remove the bolt you are talking about.. My link

About 2 years go, my neighbor had a fiberglass pool put in around the same time i had my traditional pool put in. Theirs went in waaaay faster than mine.. They dug the hole, had a crane come drop the pool in, made some connections and the next day a water tanker came, filled it, and they were swimming, all in about 5 days. my concerns with fiberglass pools(their pool, as I don't have experience with others). NJKen's advice is prefect.. ~ water table. if your in an area where the water table fluctuates, or has a possibility of rising, you could have the pool pop out of the ground. This could also happen in the winter as well. and you can say hello to some costly repairs and concrete work, again.. ~ No main drain at the bottom. ~ no liner. when the color fades, and it will over time, you need to get the whole pool refinished. (no different than me having to replace my liner down the road, but I assume the liner job is a lot less) ~ Cost. I priced out doing fiberglass when I put mine in and it was about 8-10k more expensive. While the quick install was nice, I have concerns with ground settling and the limited amount of time it had to do so. The pool business is tough, having a few friends in the business, I can tell you that you want to find a place that doesn't sub out most of the work. Many companies sub out the excavating, install, liners, plumbing, etc.. concrete I can understand. Like homedepot and lowes, they find the least expensive guy to get the job done and thats who you get.. You'll find rave reviews and pissed off people about every company out there, my advice, go with someone that has been in business for a long time (my place was 30+ years). It's not a hard task, so everyone that installs for a few years thinks they can start their own company and make all the money.. it's not that easy and many go tits up during a job. I know of 2 people that this happened too.. Whatever quote you get, you'll notice most places are pretty close to each other in price, maybe a few thousand here or there. When you get a quote, add about 8-10k on top of that to ensure you have money for extra B.S. Fence, retaining wall, landscaping, extra concrete, electrician, plumbing extras (read your contract, even tho electric and plumbing are usually included, they are typically only included up to a certain length, like the electric might only include 75' from the breaker panel, will you need more? same with plumbing. Lawn/yard repairs. How are they getting to the back yard? thru the front? that area will be trashed, they will typically re level, but what about the grass? that will need to be fixed. Do you currently have in ground sprinklers? they will need to be moved/changed. the backhoe don't care about your sprinklers. lastly, salt filter!! get this, not chlorine. I spend close to nothing in chemicals to operate my pool, no chlorine, no burning eyes, no buying. The "salt chlorine" mimics the ocean in a way, you ad salt in the beginning of the year, then the system generates it's own "chlorine" and your pool is crystal clear, clean and you can't taste, smell or feel the salt, and it should not cost any more for the equipment than traditional chlorine stuff. sorry for the novel, but it's a lot of money, so spend it wisely. oh, and try and pick a place with a brick and mortar store, so IF you ever have a problem, you can go there, and not wait around for a phone call back if need be. Also, when you almost done negotiating, and settled on a price, ask them to include closing/opening for the first year as well. It's a soft cost, so you'll most likely get that in there. If your a do it yourself'er, use these 2 times to learn how to do it.

From what I understand, you can; the only persons that can have a Loaded gun in a holster LEO's and people with CCW's.. however, like has been discussed, you cannot draw and fire without obtaining the proper badge first..

Plus at a glance, if they, or I or any member see someone carrying on the property, we know your either, LEO, Military or experienced enough to do so..

Here's a vid I found this morning, pretty good Revolver info/stuff..

The National one is free, no cost. You can select NY, NJ, FL, etc.. Why would you purchase a Non Resident NY instead of this one?

The good news is the Christie signed a a bill last month allowing the free registry for NJ. so, you still need to register at the website i posted earlier, but there will be no fee in the near future.. Also, this is a yearly registry, so you'll need to renew it every year.. takes just a few seconds..

I think i misunderstood the OP's situation. When I applied for my FID, my DL had my old address, but I had the stickers on the back of it so there was no problem. I picked up a rifle @ cabelas in PA and they almost didn't let me buy it because the address on the front of my DL didn't match the FID address. They had to call someone to make sure the stickers on the back of the DL were acceptable.

awesome, thanks. I have a scope on my 10/22 now, so i'll most likely pick up the 200's then, like you said, for 10 bucks...

So you DL has your old address and FID has the new one? If so, just go online to DMV and get the address change stickers.

date?

I'm not sure what your fees will be, it's all based off the volume you do and dollar amounts. They have you send them 2 or 3 months of current statements, so pick your biggest months and send them that, they average it out. We are getting one regular machine for our fuel dock, and that doesn't get used from like Nov - April.. I don't believe there is a fee. Mercury Pay. can't hurt to reach out to them..