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High Exposure

Premier Member
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Everything posted by High Exposure

  1. My friend's father or brother took the photo. Possibly the guide they were using. He got this pig just last week.
  2. No photoshop. Hell, this kid still uses a flip phone. He went hunting in Tennessee for a week with his dad and brother and got this pig. The only manipulation to this pic when I colored his face out with my iPhone.
  3. I used DD rails as well - Omega 7s and 9s. I replaced them with Troy Alphas (they had direct connect attachment options similar to MLOK and KeyMod before MLOK and KeyMod were available) and then with ALG EMRs (MLOK tube) as soon as I was comfortable with their reliability. Hell, for most applications of the addition of just a light and vert grip the Magpul MOE is really all you need. And yes, plastic rail covers protect the rails from getting dinged, and your hands from the sharp edges and the heat, but they still add bulk and weight.
  4. And for those who want to stick to one system simply from a subjective standpoint like that is what you already have or that is what you started with. Why? How often do you strip accessories off one gun and attach them to another? You buy a light, it stays on the rifle. You buy a vert grip, you don't swap it from gun to gun at the range, it lives on one rifle. How much stuff are you really hanging on the gun? White light Vert grip/handsop Maybe a sling attachment point And if you have a specific need maybe a DBAL or VBAL Plus most tubes retain the 1913 rail at 12 o'clock for lasers and BUIS, white light in an offset mount like a VTAC or LaRue LT606, and even some sling mounts. How much of that stuff is getting swapped between platforms?
  5. Sure if you think a more versatile, slimmer, and lightweight design is reinventing the wheel. Railed systems are heavy, clunky, big, and sharp. Say you have a 7" rail on a carbine length gun. That's 28" of rail. If you had a light, DBAL, and vert grip on there you are talking about needing maybe 6" of mounting space. That leaves 22" of rail you don't need. That's over 75% of your tube as unnecessary weight and bulk. Make that a 13" rail and you are now talking 52" of rail for the same 6" of mounting space. That's nuts! And, what if you want to mount something at other than the 12, 3, 6, or 9 o'clock positions? SOL or you have to buy a specialty mount that adds more weight and bulk. Hell, let's go back to wood stocks. If you want to attach something, use a wood screw and some hose clamps. MLOK for me. Compared to 1913 tubes, it is a lighter and slimmer system, more versatile as most of the rails allow for mounting at 8 angles instead of the traditional 4, and I can attach gear where I need it without extra bulk and weight. The MLOK also has more surface area contact between the tube and the attachment bolts than KeyMod does, making for a more secure connection and preventing the attachment from pulling through the rail.
  6. On another note, I regularly see people in traffic court. With minor traffic infractions (something involving less than 5 points and/or low fines with no possibility of loss of license) I see people without lawyers get the same resolution as people with lawyers for the same offenses. That's not legal advice, just an observation I e made over the last 14 years. You can take that for what it's worth, Yes, remember the Prosecutor works for the town, not you. The judge works for the law. That being said, if you are honest, polite, can admit a mistake or prove innocence and there is no disagreement for the officer, the Prosecutor will generally work with you and at the very least, you will get a nice reduction in charges and fines. No. You will not get the ticket dismissed if the officer doesn't appear. This is just a first appearance, not a trial date. You can speak to the Prosecutor and plead guilty to a lesser offense if you want to, but a trial necessitating an officer's presence will be rescheduled for a later time and date.
  7. At an intersection or anywhere there is a break in the painted line that separates traffic, there must be a sign that states no U Turn for a U Turn to be illegal. Outside of an intersection, you can not turn across a solid double yellow line that seperates lanes of traffic. The line is to be thought of as a curb, and may not be crossed, even to turn left into a business (there are exception to private driveways if traffic condition will allow you to do so safely) unless there is break in the line. If you pull a U turn across the line, it is an illegal turn/U turn.
  8. Only the red laser SIRT models are reliable with the trainer. The green laser models don't work so well.
  9. Save up and get the RMR. Listen to blksheep.
  10. Dirty, RTFM before you write it off. Make sure you are using it correctly. Ask me how I know..... Even if it is a bad unit, that happens from time to time. See how heir CS is.
  11. Yeah, OK, but why not just buy an optic that works correctly without an add on piece from the start?
  12. Be aware, the reticle on the dual illum models wash out in low light when using a white light for target ID. The optic can't compensate for the bright light downrange while the optic is still in darkness, this keeps the reticle dim which makes it hard to see on the target in the bright light from your WML/Handheld. If you want the RMR on the rifle, use a 45* offset mount.
  13. ^^^ This I have also locked up quite a few baddies with .380 rounds loaded in the mag of a 9mm. I have rarely found a gun on the street that was fully loaded, or loaded with all the same rounds. I can only remember once where I found a reload - it was in his girlfriend's purse, and it only had a couple rounds in it. We also had one genius try to load a 9mm into a .380 Hi-Point. The gun obviously jammed when he went to chamber the first round before shooting his target. His target, another legit bad dude, was not impressed. He snatched the Hi-Point out of the idiots hands and beat him half to death with it. By the time I got there, all I found was a mag spring and floorplaye, a handful of .380 rounds, one 9mm round that was all chewed up, and a trigger guard strewn about the roadway and a lot of blood. Good Times!
  14. If you want a functional setup instead of one that looks like a catalog photo but is not usable: ACOG in a quick detach mount, like one of the LaRue or ADM offerings. Standard folding BUIS front and back. Small MRDS/RMR mounted at 45* Having the MRDS/RMR above the ACOG is flat out terrible. Don't do it, please, for the children.... Horrendous mechanical offset issues and weird chin welds are required for normal shooting. Any asymmetrical positions are nearly impossible.
  15. Mike Rowe for president. I have 5 buddies there, and I'm stuck in Jersey....
  16. My buddy just took an 850lb hog with a .50 Beowulf.
  17. Excellent suggestions fatty.
  18. :rofl: On a serious note, that's a good point. RTFM.
  19. Personally, I would stick with the DD. I used one for years on a work gun. Held zero on my IR laser the entire time. Quality gear is the best value, even if it costs a little more.
  20. Depends. IMO, easiest, most reliable, and most cost effective is to grind down the FSB - a ground down FSB is much more reliable and secure than a replacement low profile gas block - cut off the delta ring and get a tube that fits a standard barrel nut. My preferred tube is the 13" Troy Alpha, VTAC, or MLOK tube. Another way is to buy a tube with a proprietary barrel nut. Then you have to have the muzzle device unpinned/ground off (hopefully without destroying it so you don't have to buy a new one) and remove the barrel from the upper and reinstall it with the correct nut, re align any gas block, install the tube, and then have the muzzle device permanently attached again. A lot of extra work and more $$.
  21. Absolutely, that Troy offering is not free floated and does nothing a MOE handguard won't do for you at a fraction of the cost and weight. The DD Omega 7 is free floated.

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