High Exposure

The people wailing and gnashing their teeth over this are the same that think the war was solely over slavery and think the Democrats freed the slaves.

If it was better all the Direct Action dudes, every SWAT guy, every pro-comp shooter, and every DeltaRangerPJReconSeal would be shooting bead sighted shotguns and running their optics near the muzzle.

Test what? I know putting an Aimpoint on the handguard near the muzzle is slower. Don't need to test it. It's been tested by folks better than me. As far as testing a bead sighted shotgun v a rifle with a RDS - Why? It would be a waste of time and ammo. I'd be curious to see the results of the two tests you have heard about. What were the lighting conditions in the SH? What were the shooter's backgrounds? What did the targets/shot placement look like? Was there any stress placed on the shooters? Was this during a class? Was a single targets or multiple threats engaged? I could set up a test that had a shotgunner out perform a guy with a carbine all day long. It wouldn't be a fair test or scientific in any way shape or form, but it would be a "test". In any event, a bead sighted shotgun is not something I would ever conduct CQB/HD with. The platform does not fit my requirements for that work. Even if it was faster in one specific scenario/instance/test that doesn't make it a better overall choice.

http://patch.com/new-jersey/princeton/did-tornadoes-touch-down-new-jersey-nws-investigating-0?utm_source=alert-breakingnews&utm_medium=email&utm_term=police%20%26%20fire&utm_campaign=alert

Shenanigans. An RDS mounted far forward on the handguard takes longer to get on target especially in a Shoothouse or doing CQB/FISHing. If the opposite were true, everyone that shoots for a living would have optics near their muzzles - but you don't see that do you? First, it simply takes longer to come to eye level from either indoor or low ready as the optic has to travel a longer distance. (This is the main reason I have a problem believing a bead sighted* shotgun is faster on target in a shoothouse than a rifle with an optic) Second, the "window" in the optic that the dot appears in appears smaller the further it is from your eye. This also makes it harder to locate the dot when snapping the rifle up, making target acquisition slower. Mounting the optic over the Magwell keeps the center of balance between your hands. This allows you to drive the gun faster and makes it easier to stop. Extra weight near the muzzle makes the rifle harder to start and stop. It's bad enough with a light/laser out there. No reason to add an optic too. When using a RDS for CQB you are not using a close point of aim. You focus on your target and superimpose the dot where you want to hit, making appropriate adjustments for mechanical offset inside 25 yards. Unless you are zeroing or shooting for pure accuracy, then you may focus on the dot. *As for your comments regarding shotguns I am assuming you are talking about a bead sighted shotgun. As ghost ring or rifle sighted setups don't give you that option. Either way it's apples to oranges, like Vlad said.

10 minutes of rain and crazy yellow skies here at Sandy Hook. Light wind and a little thunder/lightning. It went right around us. Hope everyone is OK.

Do not put your RDS in your handguard. That is an awful awful awful idea. Where are you finding the "consensus" that is leading you to think putting it out front is a good idea? What rationale are you understanding that makes sense to you? I am truly curious. Mount your RDS optic on your flat top receiver above the mag well. Look at any of the AR picture threads - You will not see RDS mounted on handguards. *caveat* unless there is a fixed carry handle issue, but even then it's a bad idea. If you are looking for a capable and affordable handguard look at the Magpul MOE. It does everything you need a non-free float handguard to do. What else do you want to mount to the handguard? Light, VFG/handstop, laser, bipod? Let your "mission" drive the gear train. If all you are planning to run is a light and VFG and you aren't shooting long range from braced/barricaded positions - you don't need a FF tube. I have a DD Omega 7 on my work gun. It's a good rail - solid and easy to install without permanent modification to an issued weapon (which is important due to SOP) and allows me to mount light, laser, and handstop with no issue. Any railed handguard will weigh more than a tube type. There is no free lunch.

I took a 3 day CQB class with Spartan in December of 2004(5?) at the FBI range at Ft Dix. It was an excellent class. Get a single belt mounted mag pouch that will fit on the belt that will carry your holster. I use a belt mounted Comp-Tac Kydex pouch when I am not wearing a full war-belt: http://www.comp-tac.com/magazine-pouches/ar-magazine-pouch-belt-clip-10392 Then get a Blue Force Gear 10-Speed Chest rig: https://www.blueforcegear.com/ten-speed-m4-chest-rig.html This setup is ideal giving you an emergency speed reload pouch on your belt and 4 mags to backfill from or to conduct tac-loads with. It's also quality gear and very affordable. Watch this video starting at around 3:30 for a quick idea of what I mean regarding ammo management: Travis can be a bit long winded and sometimes you need a dictionary to parse what he is saying but he puts pretty good info out there most of the time. Also, with the BFG 10speed rig you can mount an IFAK/Blowout/gunshot kit to side of the mags and then add a utility or extra mag pouch to the other side.

What kind of class? What are the requirements for bringing ammo to the line? Most instructors will tell you how many rounds/mags you are required to carry on your body to complete their drills. Where do you want to mount/carry the pouches? Belt or chest? I prefer single mag pouches to double for most occasions. I keep an emergency reload in a single pouch on my belt, and carry three across my chest in a triple-shingle or chest rig.

Most armor is sealed in something like Gore-Tex as a barrier to prevent too much moisture getting to it. It can't stop all moisture, and some small amounts from rain or just the humidity generated by your body when you sweat, will get to the aramid fibers. Over time, this will degrade the ability of your armor to stop the threats it was designed to. Hybrid/laminate vests or those with less than a 100% aramid fiber composition may react differently.* The Gore-Tex cover will likely not hold up to being washed or going for a swim. Then again it may - but you won't know if your armor has been damaged until it is put to the test. As the person wearing the armor, that's on you to decide how to treat and care for potentially life saving equipment. *I don't know if this particular armor package is pure aramid or a blend. I thought the OP stated it was Kevlar, which is an aramid fiber.

Yes.

This.

Link?

Agreed. Greg makes good stuff. I have yet to get my hands on a holster from him but I have heard good things.

Raven

Are you looking for IWB or OWB?

Correct. There are ballistic panels made of aramid fiber. They are soft armor panels like the concealable armor worn by most uniformed Police Officers. These panels are inserted into the shirt that acts like an armor carrier. There are two basic types of armor: Soft armor - which is designed to stop most handgun threats Hard armor - which is designed to defeat rifle and higher powered threats. Level III Soft armor does not stop the same threats as Level III hard armor. It gets much more complicated than that - for example hard armor that only defeats pistol threats or hard armor trauma inserts. The science and marketing behind body armor is black magic.

Kevlar is DuPont's brand name for an aramid fiber. It is used in armor, tires, gloves, sailboat sails and many other items. This shirt has pockets for a proprietary cut level II soft armor inserts that can be removed so the shirt can be washed (getting aramid fibers wet ruins their ability to stop bullets). I don't know much about DBT's Lightning Armor Package and can't seem to find much. DBT used to be a leader in the production of soft armor, their CAT Armor panels were arguably the best armor made at one time. They have been curiously absent as a large player for the last 7 years or so. Being that it is NIJ level II, it is less capable than the level III soft armor most cops wear. You can look here: https://www.officerstore.com/images/nijspec2.htm to see the different NIJ ratings.

Interesting interpretation if ITAR.

It's all about your budget. If you can afford it, get the T1. If you don't want to spend that much, get the PRO. You will be getting quality gear either way.

Agreed, with an aftermarket Lyman or maybe Skinner peep sight.

I just wish the slot for the optic on the AR version was a just little bigger so I could mount my optic where I like it - right at the end of the receiver - instead of two or three slots back. I wonder if a T1 would fit since it isn't any bigger than the footprint of the mount....

If you are looking to youtube for training you aren't ready for SWAT classes. Go to Panteao - http://panteao.com. Sign up for their streaming service - worth every penny. Any video you watch needs to be reinforced with live training under the eye of a legitimate and reputable instructor, then sustained with regular practice (dry fire and live fire) and continuing training. You only need an MOI certification to teach recruits.

This is a big thing with with Bushampster uppers. Make sure you get appropriate/corresponding upper. M4 cutouts in an upper mixed with a barrel extension that is lacking them is a recipe for headaches, cursing, and much frustration. You best bet is to buy an entire new upper. BCM has over 2000 individual SKUs, each corresponding to a different upper assembly set up - varying rail, barrel, upper, combinations. You will find what you want, it will be priced fairly, and it will be high quality.