High Exposure

Unless you are a 1” group at 25 yard shooter, that target is just going to get you chasing your zero all day long with no confidence in it when you run out of ammo. Use a standard B8 (download and print them out) and keep them all in the 10 ring at 10 yards (all in the X if your feeling froggy) and that is sufficient. Then walk back and confirm. I like to confirm at 15, 20 and 25yards. If they are all in the black, and evenly distributed, at 25 I’m happy. I may make a windage adjustment during confirmation if I see I am favoring left or right of center.

I will also say this - unless you are a solid 300 5X B8 shooter at 25 yards, don’t zero at the 25. It is an exercise in frustration. Zero at the 10 (there is less than an inch difference vertically between a 10 and 25 yard zero). You will save time, ammo and frustration by going to the ten, and getting the best zero you can. If you’re shooting well, back up in 5 yards increments and adjust windage.

• Machining on the housing of the dot could be off • Placement of mounting holes in the slide or on the dot could be machined incorrectly • Alignment of the glass in the housing could be off • Machining of the mounting pocket in the slide could be off • Bosses/lugs could be off • Front sight placement hole could be off • You could have an undiagnosed eye issue • Bad mounting plate (if you are using one) Those are just a few. There are dozens of interfaces between the optic and the slide and the irons and the slide that could have variances near the extreme end of acceptable tolerances, or even outside accepted tolerances. Combine a couple of those inconsistencies and when the errors are stacked, weird shit happens! I have some dot guns that are right on, the dot sits precisely at the tip of the iron sight. Others are higher or lower, left or right. Now, this will really make your head hurt - you may have different zeros now, but that may change over time. In a year, as your ability with the dot gets better, you may even see your zero change to be closer to irons, as you are not having to dial in corrective windage or elevation changes to compensate for other deficiencies. In the end, all that matters is: You hit what you are aiming at right now.

Do not do that. Your irons and your dot may not cowitness. That’s OK! Go to the range. Leave the dot off and shoot the irons. If necessary, make windage adjustments until you are happy with the results. Then turn the dot on and shoot the dot. If necessary, make appropriate adjustments until you are happy with the results. Then leave it alone! Don’t move stuff without verifying it has to move.

B.L.U.F.: Best Value: ALG- ACT Best Trigger: Geissele SSA Keep in mind, I look at everything through the lens of “social” interaction ie: defensive use. My priority is not gaming or shooting from a bench. There may be better 3Gun or bench triggers out there, but I won’t use them because they don’t meet my primary need of reliability. My Carbines get used rough and often and I take a lot of training classes, so my equipment choices tend toward reliability and function above all else. Now, if cost is not an option…. I have seen a lot of different aftermarket and stock OEM triggers in ARs. I have seen a lot of aftermarket triggers fail in high round/multi day training events during my career. IMO - the Geissele SSA is the ultimate “duty” trigger. They are reliable and consistent and many “special” people that I know that are more experienced than me and carry rifles into harms way for a living vouch for them - that counts for a lot in my book. I have 4 “go to” carbines, each of them have Geissele SAA triggers. They are smooth and crisp enough to enhance my abilities, both in close and at distance, but are not so touchy that I have to worry about the safety of my trigger control or an ND. Almost all the rest of my carbines have the ALG ACT - Something to note: ALG is Bill Geissele’s wife’s company - that’s a clue.

Negative. Best bang for the buck is the ALG ACT single stage. It’s a tuned and coated mil-spec trigger with a smooth and crisp single stage that you can usually find for about 1/2 the price of the MBT. This. Most people would be better served by spending their $$ on ammo and training. Shoot your carbine until the trigger is the limiting factor to how accurate you can be first. Then buy a new trigger. I didn’t upgrade a trigger until I had been shooting for quite a few years and when I started, I was shooting ~ 6-8k rounds a year in classes and training.

Any bit that can get through the barrel, can get though the muzzle device. Except TROY muzzle devices. They are hard as hell and impossible to get though without special bits, that you will end up trashing.

Impossible to advise. Once you define what you want, attempting to compare T he effectiveness of these devices are completely subjective and change based on 2 criteria: 1) The specific characteristics of the weapon such as: Barrel length, gas system length, ammo, buffer and spring specs, how the carbine is tuned etc… AND 2) The shooter’s personal attributes such as: How recoil sensitive you are and your skill level. For example, a skilled and experienced shooter will get a larger benefit from a specific brake or comp over another, where a novice shooter may feel no change between devices. Additionally, as a new shooter, muzzle device A may initially give you the best benefit, but as you become a better shooter, muzzle device B may become a better choice. What I think feels the best on my rifle, you may hate on yours today and vice versa. In a year, you may agree with me. When you get 5 shooters together to talk about muzzle devices, you will get 8 opinions on what is best for 12 different reasons… I suggest you try as many different devices and configurations on other folk’s rifles as you can and use that experience to determine for yourself what feels best to you. While 5.56/.223 won’t break your shoulder, the use of a muzzle device can decrease your split times and ability to place accurate shots on target faster than a bare muzzle. A recoil pad may cushion your shoulder, but it will do nothing to reduce gun movement under recoil that translates into disturbing the sights, which can cause a miss or slow you down while you reacquire your sight picture following recoil. If I was shooting 2 identical rifles on a timer with a scorable target - one with a brake and one without, (I have done this specifically comparing a SFMB556 and a bare crowned barrel) my splits and accuracy are significantly improved with the brake. Personally, I really like the Surefire MB556 brake above all other muzzle devices. I currently have them on 3 or 4 carbines. The keep my muzzle flat and my dot on target when shooting quickly. It also affords me the ability to use a Warden Blast Shield if I am shooting/training around others. The Modern Materiel brake is also very nice. In fact, it is one of the softest shooting brakes I have ever used and it’s current iteration accepts the Griffin Blast Shield. For comps, I like the BattleComp 1.5 and BCM comps pinned on a 14.5” midlength carbines. The PWS FSC also works well in my experience. I do have a hybrid type SF Warcomp on my SBF “Other Firearm” that does a good job combining a hider with a comp. (The hider is legal on the “ Other Firearm”, where it would be a no-go on an AR type rifle/carbine.) if that’s a legal option, it’s a good choice.

Whatever it is, buy it quick before prices jump and stock plummets.

Your Honor, for the representation of Pork Roll in the matter of Pork Roll v Taylor Ham, I’d like to present exhibit 10,473 into evidence. As you can clearly see from this image of an advertisement at a baseball stadium, Taylor is merely a brand name, and the product is called Pork Roll. Once again, nowhere is the word “ham” used or implied.

Best Ray Liotta movie ever. Fight me!

Started at 25yards. Ended at 5 yards with the pistol. Then we moved back to 10 yards for 3 rounds of 00B. we shot 4 sets of expired armor over 4 days like this. None of the armor failed. It was not a scientific and we did not do contact shots as prescribed by the FBI testing protocol.

You’d be surprised how often people do not react when shot. Pistol rounds are notoriously bad at stopping bad guys. The armor does not stop working magically on the 5th anniversary of its being manufactured. The “expiration” date is there as “insurance”. Moisture breakers down aramid fibers. The humidity and sweat your body produces provides enough moisture to affect the armor. The “expiration” date is assuming you are wearing the armor every day for 5 years on 100* weather and rain storms every other day. If you take care of your amor: • Keep it dry • Lay it flat or Hang it • Don’t store it in a hot trunk all summer The armor will last much longer than the 5 year NIJ “expiration date”. Side note - in Europe, they certify the same armor for 10years. As a confidence boost - I have taken armor to the range that was manufactured in the mid 1990s and shot it with .38, 9mm, .40 and .45 and 00B 12g. The armor stopped everything.

The MS4 is not a 3 point sling. That is a quick adjust 2 point sling. I don’t know what kind of sling Rittenhouse used. That being said: 3 point slings are terrible. Avoid at all costs. I don’t care who used them.

Happy National Pork Roll Day! I hope everyone celebrated appropriately! Please note: it is NOT National “Taylor Ham” Day.

Primary Arms has their Cyclops 1x prism optic on sale for $199 for Memorial Day. It’s about the size of a T2. I have no time on one, but I am intrigued. Oh, and Slings: I like 2 point quick adjust slings. The Magpul, BFG VCAS, Flatline Fiber Co, are all well executed. My current favorite is the Ferro Concepts Slingster.

Following the Buffalo supermarket shooting, where the bad guys armor stopped some hits from a good guy early on in the fight, I predict legislation on body armor coming down sooner rather than later - if not nationally, at least regionally. If it is something you are interested in, now is the time.

I really like the $16 LA Police Gear pistol cases (you can get them on sale for $9 occasionally). I have 10 in all different colors. Each dedicated to a different pistol. Each one holds a pistol and 5 or 6 mags plus some parts and support equipment. I can grab two or three and toss them in a bag with some ammo, eyes, ears, and targets and I’m off. They also slide very well into a rifle case or backpack. I also have a hard Pelican 1500 case with a pistol insert that’s great to bring 4 pistols, a dozen or so mags, and some ancillary gear to a training class. This works best if I’m also bringing another case or bag with the rest of my range gear - eyes, ears, ammo, targets, etc…

I have four T1s (2 on ARs, 1 on an AK, and 1 on a REM 870) and a T2 (on an AR). The T1 is no slouch but the T2 is definitely an improvement. The T1 and T2 • Small footprint • Lightweight • Extremely reliable • 50,000 hour battery life The T1 is damn nice, but the T2 improves on it with • Clearer glass • Crisper dot It has pretty much become the standard for small RDS.

Window size doesn’t matter with a RDS - you are shooting with both eyes open. I prefer the Aimpoint T2 over just about anything out there, but that’s outside your price range. I do not like magnifiers behind dots. I’d rather a LPVO if I have determined a need for magnification.

Same.